Welcome to the Vintage Timex Watch Forum, a resource for those interested in vintageTimex watches and history.
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which refers to a watch, or any other item that is old, but never used, worn, etc. You will find new watches in small towns, in a drug store, hardware store, etc. that are still on their shelves after all these years. I bought two 1970's Timex's, NOS, about a year ago from a hardware store in upstate New York. Brand new, never worn, still in original boxes with papers.
I did not repair the coil on this watch. I have for other electrics, various quartz and Accutrons, but not this one. My former teacher, Larry Blanchard, has a video explaining how to do this.
That orange second hand has a beautiful retro look against the black dial and I think I prefer this simple diver look to the more distracting chronographs with their subdials crowding out the hour markers.
Nice closeup of the balance wheel's topside mounted coil. I notice that, like their earlier automatics, Timex continued to use that brass peg to secure the hairspring to the balance coq. I wish that they had used a screw down system to secure the hairspring like practically all other manufactures's used, but I guess this troublesome to repair configuration got their costs down.
It would be easier if it had the removable hairspring stud to adjust for the height of hairspring. The hairspring and isochronism is not critical in an electric; however, the hairspring still has to be level and the coils not touching each other.
The balance assembly was taken from a donor movement, the regulator was bent down, making a difference in the dial up and down positions of 2 minutes a day. This was corrected and dial positons are within 5 seconds a day of each other, also the hairspring had to be leveled and tweeked.
How do you pull the hands off the dial of a old watch I noticed many of you repair watches or outfit old ones with new "guts" I was interested in doing that to an old timex I own. How do I pull the hands off and how do I take the stem out? Is there a quick answer to this? Tips?? thanks JW
But you can use a tiny screw driver to wedge them off. I would make sure I put something like paper down under where you are going to put the screw driver so you don't scratch the dial.
Taking the stem out varies depending on which watch you have. On the pre-1963 models, you take the back off and lift up the part holding the stem in (which looks like a flat spring). The after 1963 models require you to remove the back and turn the screw holding the stem in a few turns before the stem comes out.
It is fairly easy to remove the hands from a wristwatch movement without using a hand puller. I have always used an Exacto knife. Obtain one with a thin blade that can be extended from the handle so that you can extend it about 3/4 of an inch out of the handle. Place a thin sheet of paper between the dial and where the edge of the blade will rest as you use its other edge to pry off the hand.
Now for an important tip. I have found that, when prying off a hand with the thin blade of the knife, it's best to work slowly from one side of the hand to the other. That is, don't try to pry off a hand by just inserting the edge of the blade under one side of the hand and prying it up in one effort. This can result in a slight stretching and distortion of the hole in the hand that can result in a loose hand when it is reattached later. By carefully working from side to side of the hand, you will produce minimum distortion in the hole and the hand will then fit properly when it is later reattached.
I recently inherited a vintage 14K solid gold electric waterproof Timex. I can't find any serial numbers. Can anyone tell me where I might find out more information about this watch? Thanks.
Welcome to the Forum. If you will post some pix of your watch, this will help us to identify it for you.
Have you checked under the "6" marker for any numbers, such as: 10356 10979. The "6" marker would be between the two sets of numbers. The numbers to the left of the "6" marker would be the catalog/model number. The numbers to the right of the "6" marker would be the movement number and the last two digits of the year of production. In my example, the movement number would be "109" and the year of production would be "79" for 1979.
Otherwise, you might pop off the back of the watch and see if there are any numbers stamped in ink on the inside of the caseback.
...back-set, with the crown on the back? If so, it's likely that the number you are looking for is way on top of the dial - above the 12. You should be able to se a number there. Since you have that ( rare ) 14K gold case, there's propably a small crown symbol over "TIMEX" on the dial. If that is the case then your watch has the catalog number: 9064, with the movement number 84 and is from either 1966, 67 or 68 ( i.e. 90648467 ). If you don't see any numbers you have to take the crystal off. Looks like the watch came with a lizardgrain leather band. Hope this helps. WELCOME!
on with his information. DO NOT try to remove the back unless you are sure you know if it will come off. Does the watch run? Thanks for leting us know about the watch. I'm sure everyone would enjoy a picture if possible.
The watch does run. I will try to figure out how to upload some pictures over the weekend. Once I have the catalog number, how can I find out more about the history of the watch? I really appreciate all of the help.
a Timex Manual? Also, my grandfather sold Timex watches at his store. The watch was either given to, or purchased by, my grandfather directly from Timex.
will look back on the Forum pages to a post by A. Ruland on Jan. 15, 2005 and the information posted, I think you will find it helpful. Seems the watch was called "Dorado" and sold originally for $125.00. The information from Dorsey H. may be of special interest regarding how the battery had to be changed.
A Time Zone! I'm in agreement that it probably takes a 357 or AG10 or LR 44. But my question is where and when did you find the Time Zone? Is the Balance good in it? What a find.
...the 357, LR44 or the 301/303 - all will fit. Nice one Charlie - got one just like yours with the blue dial, and it's one of my very favourite Electronics. Wear it with pride!
Thanks guys, but I now have a different problem.
I happened to have a new 303 in my case, put it in, heard that beautiful Timex balance wheel moving, but no second hand movement! It's ticking away with no reaction from the hands.
"That's a Bummer Dude!"
grrrrrrrr.... Okay so maybe I'll have to wait a bit to wear it with pride.
real quick. Are you sure the second hand is not rubbing the crystal and you may have some old "lube" holding the hands. The trick is to get the hands unstuck if it's a "lube" problem.Some people have recommended Ronsonol and some CRC cleaner.It may just take a little time if it has not been run in a while.
Yeah, I even took the crystal off and gave a tiny nudge to se if it was maybe just lightly corroded in place. It looks fine inside, so it must be a gear thing going on. Wehn I get slightly more brave I'll take a look at the works.
The darn thing sets perfectly, the balance wheel runs like crazy, so it must be something on the order of; wrong stem, shifted works, something not meshing somewhere or maybe a gear corroded in place.
I have dissembled a dynabeat, which is sightly different I know, but it may give me a clue before I go tearing into this watch which is nicer and certainly a keeper.
I think there are diference in the battery that's available out there. Some are designed for low drain. I would guess the 'high drain' type would run longer. Can anyone verify this?
My understanding of low drain vs. high drain is that low drain were optomized for long-term low drain use use without corrosion at the expense of maximum current drain, while high-drain were optimized for high drain, at some expense to best corrosion resistance in long-term use. Most sizes in quality brands no longer distinguish between high and low drain, and the watchmakers I've talked to about it consider it safe to use a quality high-drain battery in a low-drain application.
These are all likely places to find such a watch. You probably already know that the last two numbers to the right below the 6 on the watch dial, indicates the year. Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your search!
may want to go to the "sales page", the link is above and post your request there. I'm sure someone has one and would be happy to talk to you about it, it's just that the "sales page" is the place to take care of that business. Welcome to the Forum.
Wikibooks is an offshoot of the original Wikipedia project, run by the same group. Pictures are only hosted on Wikibooks or WikiMedia servers, outside pictures will show as links, rather than pictures.
Although posting is fairly easy, I'm willing to help, especially with pictures. Contact me if you've got something you want to contribute but aren't comfortable posting yourself. If you see soemthing on the Wiki that you think can be improved, please make those improvements
Text posted there is under the GNU Free Documentation License. Images must be under a compatible license--GNU, Creative Commons or Public Domain. Getting the licensing sorted before there's lots of contributions is the main reason for moving immediatly.
I'm slowly moving the parts I wrote. Because WikiBooks is justifiably picky about licensing, and bluwiki had no license terms that I can find (other than "not copyright by someone else") I need permission before I can move anyone else's contributions, which consisted of one picture and the battery equivilancy chart. I'd like to see more people contribute, but even if it winds up being mostly my work, that's OK--I'd be doing the writing anyhow.
I've found some production numbers on the edge of the dial under that silver-colored crystal retention ring...in extremly tiny numbers...that I could only clearly read under high magnification. All of them I've seen like the one in the photo was from the early to mid 1980's.
I took the movement completely out think that might be the case, but there was nuthin' at all down there, boy! I wonder if the stopped using any kind of date code at some point in the end of the run?
...and Dorsey is right: the modelno. is very tiny and way down on the bottom of the dial. It is hard to read due to the edge of the crystal "hiding" it. I can barely read the following on mine: 2032111683. It also has "UK" at approx 7. The crystal is a real pain to remove. If the watch is running I would suggest you buff/polish the crystal without removing it from the case. I think these came with a stretchband of the "modern" kind. I can post a pic if you'd like. Keep us updated!
I did a whole breakdown. As you can see this is a front loader so I did take the crystal off and used my magnifier light in case they used similar inks on the number as on the dial, but it just doesn't have anything. Phillipines case. with that odd 59 stamped into the back. (Clearly this isn't a 1959 watch, it's got the small "waves" logo for water resistant.)
...if there's a difference between the watches assembled in Taiwan and those assembled in the Philippines. I noticed that the watch I have is assembled in Taiwan, and does have that modelno. Since yours is assembled in the Philippines, maybe Timex stopped with the modelno. on the dial/back-case when they started assembling watches there? Just a thought ( then again, I think I have seen Philippines Timex with a modelno. - not sure though... ).
I know we discussed the aspect of Timex clearing out all its remaining mechanicals at some point. Perhaps the Phillipines were the final assembly plant for mechanicals and they used up all remaining movements, cases and whatnot. They might have stopped stamping model nos. due to a lack of consistancy in construction. Just a guess.
--Charlie
I have a fraternity-logo watch with the exact same case,but it has a quartz movement...I've had it since 1991-I found it pressed into fresh blacktop and pried it up..to find it working. It still works just fine.
I have the exact same watch Charlie, I've just checked and mine is the same, no numbers that I can see anywhere apart from 76 on the case back but that is obviously not the year!
i have a timex 100, no data numbers on the bottom of the face and can't get back off, any idea on the date? Where can i find info on this watch?? works great.
Thanks Clara
...does it have a small number stamped on the back-case? I have a Timex 100 with "09T95" on the back, which would indicate the year 1959 ( I, with others, think - this is just speculation - that the two last digits indicate the year, but written backwards... ). If your watch has no number it is propably stamped with ink on the inside of the back-case. I guess you have the two-piece screw-on back, and you are able to remove it with a small screwdriver - there should be 4 slots in the back-case outer ring. Or, you could try with your thumbnails - I have tried that a few times, and if the case isn't too tight it will work!
As for more info on the Timex 100: it runs with the Timex 22 movement - a very sturdy movement. To be honest I don't know what the difference between the Marlin and the 100 is. Maybe the size? The 100 is quite big for the period. It also has the little "teardrop" at the short end of the seconds hand. Hopefully someone else here will know more.
First of all I say we let Mark (from two posts ago) slide since it was a "first offense". Please come back to the sales page when you have more goodies to sell.
Second, I would like to address another issue that is becoming more of a problem lately. We all know Alans preference that we do not post active Ebay auctions here. The reasons were two-fold.. that we do not use this forum to help sell an item, and that it might stop someone else from getting a real good buy on a poorly constructed auction that others might have missed.
Well lately I have seen quite a few folks post photos from live auctions without posting the actual link to the auction. I think this just as bad as posting the auction. It doesn't take much work to find those items with a simple search on Ebay.
That being said, I would like to suggest that we stop the posting of photos from live auctions.
Just a suggestion,
Ron
It's been a time honored tradition at this forum not to link to active actions or their images...kind of like this forum's "Prime Directive". This gives those who have done the searching and tracking of the auction the full benefit of their efforts and maximizes their chance of getting the item at the best price possible...
...first a break to Mark - an honest mistake. I remember my first post on this forum: it was a link to a live auction ( although in Sweden, but still... )! I was kindly corrected, and everything went fine ( I'm still here! ).
I agree with the posting of pics as well: lets stick to pics from ended auctions and our own watches. Makes sense.
I think we should be uncompromising on the rules, and in cases like this, should not buy any item advertised in the main forum, unless it's something like the watchbands that have been OK'd in advance by Alan.
On the other hand, If Mark wants to participate within the rules, I'll be more than willing to make him welcome--I don't think he should be banned or shunned for a single violation.
Agree. You can 'bookmark' the auctions you like...
by Alan N.
Bookmark the auctions you find interesting, and when they are concluded, feel free to link the auction, or attach any pictures. In fact, I find this a fun part of the forum.
In some circumstances, someone might want to post 'about' an auction in progress, for example if he has a question he wants to ask the Forum before bidding. For example, 'does anyone know if the Timex square case watches from the 50s had the same movements as the Timex round case watches from the 50s?'
In this case, the individual might have seen a square case Timex on an auction, he likes it, but the seller describes the watch as broken. He wants to know if he might be able to swap a running mvt from a less desirable watch into his desired square Timex. But this seems different than posting the links and pictures of the watch.
Also, I cut Mark slack, I don't think he was violating rules in a wanton, malicious way. Anyway, he is probably gone now that he sold his lot, as I recall he was a collector of marbles or something and probably has little residual interest in Timex.
a couple of years ago, i did the same thing that Mark has done,posted something for sale in the forun and recieved much harsher responces at that time...my problem was that i was not famelier with the site and the forum,was just trying to get rid of some stuff i didn't want...i think most people that visit here for the first time start reading the post and them later go back and read the intro and find out about the sale page..you should have noticed that its new visitors to the site that post in the forum...its probably be much better if you explain to the new person how it works around here,,without biteing their heads off.i know i didn't come back for over a year because of the attitude that was displayed.a few of the people here are getting to know me and probably say that i'm not a bad sort of person and that i am willing to be helpfull if i can be.Mark is not a bad sort of person either,,and he collect guns (bang bang) not marbles.
Richard
also that posts of active auctions are out of line. And that said, a little slack should be cut on the issue of posting something for sale THE FIRST TIME.
Timex models? I hope I am not violating the forum rules by asking this. I am asking for the expertise of those knowledgeable about the vintage timexs, what is the most vintage model that timex currently makes?
...( in my opinion )the Marlin - Timex model no. 21191. You can search for it on Timex's website. Neat that they decided to call it the Marlin, just like the original one from the 50's!
This is a big help to me. I am not trying to crash this forum, I have a lot of respect for what you guys are doing here. I love vintage, and I decided nothing could be more vintage than timex. However, I probably am not enough of a purist to get a used watch. The Marlin looks like a good reproduction, I am excited. I just wish they made it in gold. Thanks for the help!
I think the Marlin is out of production???????????????
by c chambers
Which is more vintage do you think, #20011 or #2D441 or #21374 or #21813 or #2C021 or my vote #2D701?
Bad news, too, people have no taste. I think Timex introduced a vintage line quietly and just as quietly ended it
I am going to dig up a picture of my Timex Triathlon that I wore in Infantry Basic Training and AIT and post a picture of it, it took a licking and kept ticking!
...have elements of the past - all of the ones you mention are nicely styled. None are "vintage" though - they are not "copies" of Timex's made in the past. The only one would be the one I mentioned in my earlier post. Just a quick suggestion: if you want a vintage look to your watch, why not get just that: a vintage Timex. You can easily get one for $5-10 on Ebay - running and keeping time ( and for the price of a new one - why not get 4 or 5? You could have an Automatic, a manual wind, maybe an Electric/Dynabeat - all with different styling...?! ). There's nothing like wearing a vintage Timex! Let us know what you think!
Just took pics of another watch I just received. It's not running yet, but aside from the movement, the case,crystal dial and hands are in excellent condition. The dial is marked made in Switzerland and the case made in the UK. It's the Roman numeral watch. Enjoy. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/type21970/album?.dir=b79d
I recently puchaced a entire watchmakers inventory and tools.
With it came hundreds and hundreds of Brand new Timex parts.
There must be 500 crystals, every shape and size imagineable!
maybe 400 crowns gold plate and silver
Stems up the wazoo!
I can not even begin to count the hands!
second hands, hour hands, minute hands, subdial hands!
And then there are just hundreds of parts I have no idea what they are!
All parts are new in the little envelopes with the part # on them
Most are in the blue clear plastic cases with the part # reference inside the cover
Some are in blue styrofoam boxes with dividers
all of the hands are in little clear capsules individualy.
The only parts that don't seem to have a # are the o-rings.
Probably two hundred o-rings of different sizes
They are in the blue boxes
The old watchmaker worked on watches until 1977
So my guess is these parts are all for ? 50s to seventys?
If anyone has a use for these parts let me know.
I would like to see them go to use.
I am not into watch repair.
I just wanted the bench and buffing tools.
But i had to buy it all!
If someone wants all of the Timex parts $50 plus shipping?
Is that a fair price?
Or maybe just trade me for something?
I can e- mail pics if someone is interested.
mfdevito@hotmail.com
Mark 208-691-1370
If I'd seen this first in the sales forum, I'd likely be very interested. However, to protect the fourm, I refuse to buy from people who disregard the rules and sell in the discussion forum, even if I see it later in the sales forum.
I certainly did not mean to offend you.
I am new to the whole forum thing.
This forum is not very easy to navigate for me.
I apologize to anyone who I may have offended by my obviously sheer ignorance!
I was just trying to help someone who may have a use for Timex parts.
I apologize again for posting in the wrong place.
I'm a idiot.
Parts are sold.
Moderator please delete. ( I would do it myself, but I'm not sure if that is against the rules)
I'm glad to see these parts go to a good home.
I was only trying to help someone out who is into Timex.
timex watch fixer upper. I need some information on a couple of things. I think it was just before you "went to the races" , you posted on Sept 13th about an Electric you had that you used "the ronsonol trick" on to get it running. Please tell what this amounts to. Also, if you would, please walk me through the steps in changing the dial on a Timex Electric with a 40 movement (1969-70) era.
you John, first I am by no means a electric expert. I'm just a relative newbie that likes to collect Timex electrics. The "Ronsonol trick" I referred to is something I learned about on this forum. It is merely putting some Ronsonol lighter fluid in the movement to give it a quick cleaning for those of us that don't have the real cleaning devices. After applying the fluid , the movement can be blown out GENTLY and the fluid evaporates quickly. I found out the hard way that using a strong air blast from a canned source can bend the contact spring. Again this is not the preferred method of cleaning your electric.
Replacing the dial on the model 40 is the same as on most Timex watches. First remove the second hand. You do not have to remove the hr and min hands. Then straighten the four tabs on the dial and remove the dial from the movement. When putting the new dial on, preset the hands to 12:00, set the dial in place and bend the tabs to secure. Replace the second hand by pressing it just below the chamfer on the staff.
The one concern I would have about using lighter fluid on an electric is what would the stuff do to the varnish/enamel on the coil's windings? I would try something inert(or close to it) like CRC contact cleaner, or some such. Just a thought.
...I think it is safe to use the lighter fluid as long as the movement isn't soaked in it/bath and, as you point out, dont soak the coil. I haven't tried lighter fluid yet - I use the CRC Electronic Cleaner. It works great, and in a similar manner as the lighter fluid ( I think... ). It evaporates fairly quicly and leaves no residues. It's not expencive either - I have had a $10, 200ml aerosol for over a year now and there's still about a 1/4 left ( I even use it on the mech. movements as a final "rinse" before oiling the movement ).
A Timex Automatic ( pic. - just another restoration... )
by
I thought that while we are waiting for the new Timex Automatics to arrive on our repective shores, I'd post a pic of this Timex Automatic from 1983. It came in a small lot the other day along with some other Timex's, and I thought it looked nice. I happened to have a nearly NOS bracelet which I think is the kind they came with when new. I just polished the case and crystal along with a "movement-bath" ( not that it looked like it needed a clean, but just to be on the safe side... ). Runs super and looks... well... very GOLD! ( something for you technoguy? Just kidding! ).
I have taken an interest in these late Automatics - just in the transition from mech. to regular quartz watches for Timex. To me they represent the last attempt to meet the "quartz-invation" from the East. And now they are meeting the competition with a new Automatic. Life is good!
I meant "rescpective" shores and not repective ( if that is a word... ). Also, the pic shows the watch "silverish" on the side - the watch is gold all over. Sorry...
My compliments Knut. Most of the Timex's I have seen that were mechanicals from the Eighties have been in Stainless. I've never seen that case shape in Yellow. I also have that same bracelet, but it also is in Stainless. Thanks for sharing the photo.
...same movements, i.e. the 32 movement was used for both late 60's "Self-Winds" and mid 70's "Automatic". After that they modified the 31,32 and 33 movement somewhat, and called them the 107,108 and 109.
Knut
Here's your chance to go down in Timex History. Timex is looking for 8 New faces to introduce a new line of Indiglos. You can check out the info with links on how to enter to be a part of Timex History. I was just Googling whatever I could find on the words "New Timex Line" and found this article. I haven't checked it out yet, and am in no way affiliated with Timex.
Forgot to include the link. I just looked at it and I am going to post a pic of myself with a Vintage Timex. Will let you know when I'm on the site. I would like to encourage those others with vintage Timex's to post a pic of yourself with your favorite watch. What a great way to let people and Timex know that there are collectors out there and that Timex's are still taking a licking. Enjoy http://www.newfacesoftimex.com/default.aspx
like i said with my other post the new watch runs exellent..but who knows how long its been since it last was worn and running. but sould i clean and oil it?
I would just enjoy it! Don't mess with something that isn't broken. I only have my watches cleaned by a watchmaker when they loose time or stop working.
Generally, I agree with this philosophy. If the watch is keeping good time and continues to do so for more than 72 hours then, chances are, it does not need servicing.
There is, however, a problem that can arise when purchasing NOS watches or even used decades old watches that may have been kept in hot environments for years without being used. Under these conditions all or most of the lubrication in them could have evaporated away. Yes, they will often start up and run with only a minimum loss of time. Then, suddenly, they can seize up and stop. When cleaned, they will produce a lot of dark metallic grit in the used cleaning fluid. This is all precious metal that was worn off of the gear teeth while the movement was running virtually "dry" of lubrication. Thus, because one decided to play the waiting game with them, they will accumulated the equivalent of decades of wear in their gear trains in only a few tens of hours.
It's usually a good idea to know the source of one's timepiece and its history. Was it recently serviced? If not, was it stored under the proper conditions of temperature and humidity that would preserve the lubricants in the movement? Often these matters are never discussed and one can only hope that the oil in the watch is sufficient.
So, as a general bit of advice, I would consider any vintage watch, ESPECIALLY if it is NOS, of unknown origin and history to be in need of a routine cleaning and lubing.
IIRC, some of the cast of the Red Green Show used to be a comedy musical group called The Frantics...the one song I remember was called Gas Station Washroom(Dr.Demento Show..mid 1980's).
what year did timex start and stop making dynabeats? and i just got another dynabeat today exellent condtion all i did was add a battery and it started right up and is keeping time exellent so far. just wanting to know more about dynabeats. for the newbie.
it would be nice to have some kind a search function for this forum. I have seen many similar questions posted at different times. One day, I will make a page with all Timex but unfortunately, i am the least qualified to 'know' Timex.
regards,
rob t
The Dynabeats were likely all produced from the early to mid 70's. Timex increased their beats per hour to 28,800 instead of 21,600. The positional time keeping of serviced ones are usually excellent on the timing machine yet not as good when off the wrist. Now, as a rule, the higher the number of vibrations per hour the more accurate the watch;however, this is not necessarly the case with the Timex Dynabeats, but they are still good timekeepers. Timex Electrics are cool watches.
for the article on crystal polishing I got to thinking about other methods to try. Since I also build plastic models of race cars I thought about what I use for sanding them, went to the tool box and hit on another method. You can get flexible sanding sticks ( they look somewhat like your wife's emory boards) in hobby stores in 3 grades. Since they are flexible you can lay the crystal face up on a work surface and sand with the various grades of sticks. This way you don't need to worry about ruining the bezel. I tried it out with a badly scratched crystal and the result was great. A final polish with crystal clear polish and it looks like new!
Hope this may be helpful . I am not savvy enough to add it to WiKi but if someone wants to try it and add it, that's fine by me.
...just click the edit button at the top, and add your info to the article in the appropriate place, click save. If you screw up you can either go to the history tab and revert to the previous version, or send me a message and I'll fix it.
...or click on the "discussion" tab, and make suggestions.
I was at the Sieko Citizen watch forum and I noticed a post that was interesteing. This guy was talking about a chinese made movement on a watch. The picture he posted looks a lot like the ones I saw here. Here is what he posted
"I have a "Prague" automatic that I got from Overstock.com for about 80 bucks. It is a very nice watch for the money: 22-jewel movement (marked "CHINA" although the watch was assembled in Taiwan, I think--I took the sticker saying so off the back), keeps decent time, handwinds, power reserve, 50m water resistant, all steel with rose-goldtone case.
This is a nice dress watch that generates lots of compliments. I don't think it's a "clone" so I think it is OK to discuss it here...
Lousy pic taken from seller's site (Overstock.com) just to give you an idea.
"
Is it the same movement perhaps?. I will be following that post as it will be interesting how they rate it.
I saw that watch on Overstock and thought the same thing. There is an earlier post with the Timex Automatic on the Timex Company site that shows the movement. It is not a Seiko movement because of the way the winding weight is attached. This doesn't matter to me because it is a Timex and Timex is what I like to collect and wear.
This will be my next watch as soon as I can find one.
The Timex auto's have an exhibition back so one can view their movements. Does this watch you got from Overstock.com also have such a back on it?
Overwise, it looks a lot like the Timex automatics that we are all eagerly awaiting at our nearest discount chain stores. This just goes to show that such a watch CAN be delivered to the customer for under $100 USD. And, with a nice gold plated finish...
I do know if you saw the post to your question dated Oct. 3rd. If not please take a look and see what you think. If my reading of the Timex book is correct, it seems that a Timex with an Hattori movement could not have been dated in 1958. Someone with more historical knowledge of Timex jump in here because I am way too limited to think I know the answer to this one.
timex electric 70's question dust cover stops watch from working
by
i got this electric working tonight i have not tested it for accuracy yet. but when i put the dust cover on (i think its called the dust cover) the watch stops working. after several tries i left out the dust cover and its running just fine 10 min now with no stopping. why is that dust cover stopping the watch from working? should i have the dust cover on? is it bad for the watch? im a newbie please help. thanks robert
I typed that with a helpful smile on my face but you can't 'see' that. I'm just not sure of what you're describing. Is it perhaps a spacer ring that is touching the balance wheel?
...is propably bent so that it touches the balance wheel when you close the case. There should be a tiny gap between that cover and the balance wheel. If the cover is slightly bent it can come in contact with the balance wheel when you close the case/caseback. See if you can "bend it out" a little. The cover's "mission" ( I think... ) is to hold the battery in the right place/align the battery before you put on the backcase. Hope this helps - keep us updated!
ok im a newbie so be patient..its not a dust cover and it is bent. so now i have had the watch running none stop it runs really fast like a rocket twice the speed of normal or 3 times faster then the speed of light. how do i slow it down?
...seems that the watch has a problem with the hairspring on the balance wheel. If there is oil/dirt on the hairspring it may cause it to run way too fast. The hairspring could also be damaged/bent. Are you able to look at the hairspring: do you see any damage ( twisted/bent )?
You are able to regulate the speed/timing of the watch, but if it runs as fast as you mention, simply regulate it wont be sufficient.
If you were able to post a pic then that would be great - there are several others here that know this better than me.
Perhaps what you are calling a "dust cover" is a metal shield that fits over the balance wheel coil and acts to protect that coil from external magnetic fields that could interfer with the watch's timekeeping.
If that is the case, then maybe that shield has, itself, become magnetized. If so, then that would account for it stopping the movement when it is installed. You might want to try degaussing the shield before installing it. If you do not have a commercial degausser then you can make one by wrapping an extension cord around a plastic cup and then plugging an appliance (like a toaster) into it that draws a lot of AC current. After you get that set up and there is AC current flowing in the extension cord, put just the shield in the cup and, after a few seconds, SLOWLY pull it out of the cup. This action should demagnetize it for you and, when installed in the watch's movement, it will no longer affect the timekeeping.
I asked the same question when I first started here, and didn't get a definitive answer. Since it obviously worked better without the cover, I left it out. Seems to work reasonably when worn, stops eventually (after a month or so) on my watch shelf. It's one of the more boring looking electrics, so it doesn't get much wrist time.
yes i looked carefully and i seen that the hair spring has a little kink in it. i tried to straighten it out but no good so i now need a new hair spring.or what ever its called. i also noticed that the battery was very warm. could this be from running to fast over night?
i keep the ( dust cover ) off the second cover that holds the battery in place. thats what i call a dust cover but now i know its not a dust cover. thanks for helping the newbie out
a new hairspring fitted to that watch, you would probably be better off to try to locate a movement that works. If the watch is from 1970 it probably has the 40 movement or the same movement with the date feature. I don't mean to discourage you from doing whatever you want with your watch, however, putting a hairspring on an electric movement would be a real chore.If you decide to try for a different movement they are not "rare" and someone on the Forum probably has one that works that you can aquire.
I am reposting my question just incase it got lost in the "red haze" of the other post on what is a watchmaker.I would appreciate it if anyone has any information on a watchmaker (let's make it in the "old" craft mode)who is or was blind (as in lacking the sense of sight). By this I mean living or dead. A name , place, date or any other information?
The whole "Blind Watchmaker" analogy just holds no water... for me. Saying that the order of the universe proves there is a bearded old white man watching over us all is um, well let's keep it on the high road. I don't buy it.
Saying "Oh! Look! Blue-green algae eventually becomes Diana Krall! That proves there is a god!" Okay I'm not saying Diana Krall isn't heavenly, but science having an orderly progression doesn't prove the existance of a higher power! Ack! Hairball! Can't swallow it!
I'm willing to pay whatever Timex charges for a brand new "Viscount"!
See? ON TOPIC!
--Charlie (Can of worms, freshly opened? Hope not!)
I think I read somewhere that the analogy of the "Blind Watchmaker" is used to describe how the process of evolution works. The analogy is that if one had a blind watchmaker in a shop full of parts and he kept trying to fit the parts together two at a time, then, eventually, he would succeed in assembling a working watch. In like fashion, the "blind" and also mindless laws of physics and chemistry can, if given enough time, lead to the production of occasionally "stable", and thus persistent, structures like galaxies, stars, planets, living cells, multicellular organisms, plants and animals, humanoid beings, civilizations, philosophy, mathematics, technology, science, horology, and, at the very pinnacle of it all, the Timex vintage watch collector!
Did it all really happen that way? Either it did or God made it all and then decided to rest on the 7th day after checking the date on this new calendar watch...
If this were a Forum on philosophy or religion I could understand these responses. However, since it is a watch forum could you please accept the fact that I have an interest in knowing if anyone knows of a blind person who was or is a watchmaker. I do not mean to sound harsh or unpleasant, but want it known that the question is only what it is without hidden meaning.
I FOUND THE PRICE LIST FOR THE NEW TIMEX AUTO'S..(more)
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I was "Googling" this morning and discovered a link with all of the 2005 Timex product prices by model number and SKU.
The T2D9131, T2D9141 and the T2D9151 (the new Auto's) are listed. I think this is a dealer wholesale price list showing the SRP and the Customer Price.
For the Auto's it shows an SRP of $139.95 and a customer price of $80.94. (This must be a WHOLESALE price)
Anyway, this gives us an idea of the selling price for the new Auto's. I am sure that the discount stores will sell for less than the SRP. And, like everything else, it is subject to increase by the manufacturer.
...what to say about those prces. I guess the SRP of $139.95 would be just that - suggested retail price. Very often ( IMO ) things never get sold at the SRP, so I think we could expect lower prices ( at least on the Internet ) after a little while. The customer price is most likely what the retailer/store would pay - I may be way off here...! Anyway, I was hoping they were a bit cheaper, but no doubt they will sell for the SRP at first when they release them. Thanks for posting those prices - excellent "Googling" Ed!
I talked to my contact with the Timex factory outlet store near my home. They discount Timex's everyday, EXCEPT for the new models, at first.
She told me that the Perpetual Calendar models were NOT discounted when first introduced. I suspect that the Timex Auto's will NOT be discounted at the Timex factory stores at first, either.
I also suspect that the Wal-Marts, Targets, Sears, etc. WILL discount the price when they are offered for sale in their stores.
BTW, has anyone discovered a retail store that has the new Auto's in stock? If so, please post and let the rest of us know. I'm looking and checking EVERY day!
I find it a little high at $135. I guess I'll narrow my selection from 2 to one. Hopefully, the price do come down so I dont have to sell too many of my other watches to finance the purchase.
Thanks so much for posting that price list. I spent part of my day off today (yes...I work weekends and my days off are during the normal work week) scouring my local retail establishment trying to get a lead on the new Timex autos. The managers at my local Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Target and Sears all went through their advance materials for Timex watches. Sadly none of them even knew about the new autos and none of their distributors have given them notice of the pending arrival of the new models.
I guess I'll have to just hang in here and wait for the saga to unfold. Hopefully some of them will eventually trickle down to my local retailers.
Dorsey, I also looked at some of the big stores in the Chicagoland area and came up with nothing. My guess is that they will be on the selves by late November (Just a guess).
Timex's (and few other watches) ever sell at list. I bet that you see the autos selling for $100 or less not too long after introduction.
No luck finding them around here either. But I never have much luck finding various Timex models in stores around here. They make probably twenty or more models of Reef Gear watches, but I've never seen more than one or two models in stores around here. I bought the one I wanted online (fantastic, well-made watch #58891).
On the way home from a auto race , I passed the Timex museum alongside I95 in Waterbury, Ct. Since it is only about an hoour drive for me, I made a mental note to make a visit soon. Has anyone here gone? Is it a worthwhile trip?
Phillip Gonsher is the Only Forum Visitor to Timex Museum
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A few years ago I visited the NAWCC Museum in Pennsylvania and posted photos and a little narrative about my visit. Shortly thereafter Phillip Gonsher, long time Forum participant and major timex collector, visited the Timex Museum in Connecticut. Phillip's impressions weren't all that enthusiastic about the museum exhibits but he was given a behind-the-scenes tour that he found to be most impressive.
I have an older Timex manual wind that is in a small diameter one-piece plastic case. The movement apparently comes out through the front of the case after the crystal is removed. I am able to remove the crystal, but cannot figure out how to remove the stem so I can lift out the movement. Could it be fitted with a split stem like some old Bulovas that lift out through the front of the case? I didn't want to be too forceful pulling on the stem.
Anyone have suggestions?
I think you'll see a hole in the dial near the 3 o'clock position. There is a tab in there that is pressed to release the stem. I do not think Timex used those "split" stems as are found on the higher priced watch brands.
also find a hole in the backside of the watch. The hole may be hidden with a "plug" of either the screw out type or a type that you use a small screwdriver to pry out. If there is a plug there should be a small hole uner it to push a small tool into to release the "stem holder".
I think I had one of those. After you remove the crystal, see if there is a retainer ring around the dial that you can pry out with a tiny screw driver. If it was like mine, once the ring is removed, the dial just snapped on. After removing the dial, you can see where to push the spring down to remove the stem.
The crystal is easily removed with a crystal lift, then there is a thin silver retaining ring that comes out. At this point the movement can be tipped up to see the edge of the pillar plate. Removing the hands does not release the dial, and it appears to be fastened to the pillar plate by tabs on the edge of the dial being bent through slots on the periphery of the plate.
The water resistant case appears to be a single piece of injection molded plastic labeled made in Philippines. There are no holes in the dial, nor any plugged holes in the case that I can find.
I'm still at a loss. I'll keep trying if anyone has any other suggestions.
Thanks to all for the help.
This is the last thing I would try and it is a bit risky. Just pull the crown out to the setting position and try to physically pull in out of the movement. Maybe it is not held in with a standard setting lever, but is made so that a sufficiently strong tug will allow it to disengage from the setting lever.
Again, I must caution you that this is risky and, if I am wrong, it could permanently damage the setting lever. I would just give it a good tug and if it does not come free of the movement, then consider other options.
it Ed. I was hoping you would solve this thing. I have a watch on my bench that I'm having the same problem with.(not a Timex). I can't find anything that looks like it will release the stem.I'm about to the point of saying if it is not a two part stem then it's going to be broken.
I finally got the movement out of the case! With a good bit of forcing/twisting, I actually got the movement turned over enough (With the stem and crown still attached and through the stem tube) to get the stem retaining screw out. The stem looked normal enough, but it was a larger diameter near the crown and there was an o-ring at the base of the crown. Out of curiosity I held the flat end of the stem in a hand vise and was able to turn the crown section off. The crown has a short shaft of its own that is fitted with the o-ring and is female threaded at the end. The stem has male threads and the crown must be attached after the movement is installed in the case. The threads were tight all the way off so they must put some sort of a thread locker on when they screw on the crown to keep it from working off the stem during use. This watch was definitely designed to never be opened.
I did no appreciable damage to the case as the plastic is somewhat flexible. I'll see if I can get the movement cleaned up as it was only running intermittently before. It's small and brightly colored so maybe my seven year old daughter will like it.
Thanks for the advice everyone.
I am curious about the movement in that Timex. Is it a $22? Like I said earlier, mine had dial tabs that went straight down and snapped into the movement. I did hear of others that required you to hold onto the stem and unscrew the winding crown.
Here's how to get the movement out of these kind of watches - this method also applies to Timexes with the older one-piece aluminum cases. Once you get the crystal off and the spacer ring under it, you will see a slot by the 'three'. Look through there and you will see that there is a flat spot milled into the stem. Now you will have to make a tool - really a very small open end wrench. I used a small piece of brass, but a screwdriver bit would do as well - it's just easier for me to file down brass rather than steel. The wrench must have a 1mm wide opening that is about 1 1/2 mm dep. the whole thing should be about 3 or 4 mm wide by 1 mm (or less) thick. Put that into the slot and aound the milled out secion. All you have to do now is unscrew the crown.
Paul N. I was hoping someone would post the information about the "slotted" screwdriver. Is this also the tool used to remove the movement on the "military watches of the '80's" that have the one piece plastic cases?
Yes, the 'wrench' works on the 80's military style watch (actually, I thought that watch was the subject of the first question). It also works on the one-piece aluminum cases Timex used in the late fifties/early sixties.
I'm still researching the best wiki host for a permanent solution, and I may move this--However if I do, I will move all content linked from this page to the new one, and I will announce the change here.
Please--Add some content! The easiest way is to go to the edit link on the main vintagewatches page, type
[[title of the content you want to edit]]
(using the double square brackets) where you think it belongs and save the page. This will bring you to the new version, with your new link. Click on your link and you'll wind up on the empty edit page.
If you know something useful, please post it even if your spelling is bad and you don't know how to format it. If you see something where the spelling or format could be improved, please improve it. If you see something missing information, add it.
This is a great start. I like the web site and think you are on the right track.
I did see the page on crystal polishing and liked the pictures. You have some nice results and the pictures show it. Turtle Wax polishing and Turtle Wax rubbing compounds are still my preferred method for plastic crystals, but your results speak for themselves.
If you've got a different method, post it in addition to what I've got! I don't want this to be "Sevesteen's guide to Timex"--My goal was to get it going, pointed in the general direction I thought was best, then let it go where it will, as long as it's somewhat watch-related.
You don't need pictures to submit an article--Write up what you do, let it go, and hopefully someone else will give it a try and polish your submission. (no pun intended...)
Someone here pondered what exactly it meant to call oneself a watchmaker and remarked that typically it meant they had the ability to change a battery. So I smiled at that and started wondering what my skills actually were. I don't call myself a watchmaker by any means, but since I started hanging around this place I can change a battery, a strap, take out links in standard bracelets, I've replaced crowns, crystals, recased movements and most recently thanks to our Mr. Gonsher, I have replaced a dial! Here is a picture of my latest achievement, or attempt!
The face is from a slightly different model, which explains the slight tilt, but it is miles ahead of the old dial in looks. I suspect the watch was worn while washing dishes, as it had a lot of gunk in it and from the looks of the old dial, some water damage.
A quick clean, a new dial and a sonic dip of the case and we're ready to tell time again!
Thanks Philip! We'll talk about what kind of parts you're looking for!
--Charlie
There was a time, like about two centuries ago(!), when a "watchmaker" was a skilled artisan who actually made a watch movement and its case by hand. Then, with the introduction of equipment to make gears, this ability was slowly lost by those making watches, but they still referred to themselves as "watchmakers". Today, the slide in watchmaking abilities continues downhill.
Most "watchmakers" today are only capable of making repairs using parts that someone else made with a machine. They no longer physically make the watch and, ultimately, are really only doing a more advanced version of what the members of this forum do...only with better facilities and tools. Yet, they still refer to themselves as "watchmakers". Perhaps, it would be more accurate if they called themselves "watch technicians".
In the future, with the advent of mass produced cases, dials, and movements, the mere swapping of these components by a person will immediately confer the title of "watchmaker" upon him.
I think this is just a myth.
Perhaps a parable although to what end I'm sure I don't know.
An aside: My grandfather was blind and he had the coolest braille watch! He also had this odd little Japanese talking clock that had a very cute voice. "It. is. now. twelve. forty. five. - please hurry!" I loved hearing that thing when I went to visit!
Sorry I know this has nothing to do with your question, but It was nice to remember.
Sorry, but your comments are wrong. I am a watch maker so not only am I a highly skilled repairer, working on watches that most people on this forum wouldn't dare take the back off, but I also make watches on occasions using vintage tooling. The UK still has a small number of makers.
You can't repair a verge fusee watch by inserting spare parts from another source. Parts have to be made including turning up staffs, pivots, pinions etc.
I would agree that it appears that most people on this forum haven't got a clue as their main interest is Timex, which hardly equips one to understand the workings of a proper watch.
A full strip down, clean and oil of a Timex takes me two hours, fully reassembled, tested and regulated. A complex watch like an Omega Chronograph takes between 5 - 10 hours. Making a watch from scratch can take anything up to a year depending on design and complexity.
quote: I would agree that it appears that most people on this forum haven't got a clue as their main interest is Timex, which hardly equips one to understand the workings of a proper watch. end quote.
How to win friends and influence people.
Nobody is "spouting". I think that Technoguy is stating what most folks these days THINK a watchmaker is. But I think we would all agree that a true watch maker has the machinist skills to create all the parts necessary to make a watch.
A lot of us here work on all kinds of clocks and watches, but I still would consider ourselves hobbiest. Greg, I think with your background, it would be great if you could contribute some positive posts from time to time.
Just for the record, I'll take the back off of anything.. and then I usually have to pay someone to put it back on!
Ron typed out-
"I'll take the back off of anything.. and then I usually have to pay someone to put it back on!"
I'm in the same boat!
I'll take apart anything provided I know I can pay for the repairs needed if I ain't up to the reverse task! (which does seems to happen more and more!)
you are right (or not) but you could state your point in a more civil manner. Demonstating a superior attitude and portraying all Timex afficienados as clueless about other fine watches shows a lack of respect for others (in my view), as well as making an assumption without knowing what other timepieces any of own or may work on.
Now I will do the best thing to do with these type of discussions and that is to sit on my hands and ignore them. I apologize to Allan and the board for getting embroiled in this little fracas.
Watchmaking IS a dying art, although it seems to be coming back.
If you are as capable as you say I think you should have probably just smirked and agreed as honestly I don't think Tech' was talking about you. If you can do what you say, you are well above the average Joe.
I like that you jump to the defense of your art, but please don't deride us our pleasure of enjoying these amazing* ticking gems from up to 70 years past.
And for the record, if I found a Patek Phillipe in the street and it wasn't ticking, you BET I'd pop the back off verrrrrrry carefully. -Just to see that beautiful piece of technological art inside.
Would I start picking at it with the seam ripper I use to take the stem out of a Timex 22? Nooooo! Not one person on this forum would. We know the difference!
*Amazing due to the fact that any other watch of the same price produced at the same time has long ago stopped and wont restart! Takes a licking indeed!
Greg, take a breath, see yourself for what you are and come back to us. Any friend of a Timex is a friend of mine!
While the basic Timex pinlevers aren't all that interesting to me, (I've got a couple) many of the other watches are very interesting--The jump-seconds electromechanical, hybrid balance-wheel quartz, the automatic that manages to keep a pinlever movement wound, one of the earliest uses of Seiko movemnets in the US, etc, and all done with budget in mind.
The people of this forum is what draws me, as much or more than the watches--Too many other watch forums have too high an entry fee--"Get a beater like a new Tissot or a Hamilton", both watches worth several times more than I've paid for my most expensive watch. I'm interested in horology in general, and watches I can wear. I'm not interested in watches as jewelery beyond a very basic level, and not particularly in "high horology", where the polish of unseen parts is as important as performance.
I've taken up reading the mags; Watchtime, IW and In Sync. These magazines are pretty much dedicated to high end stuff that costs more than a home! Not the type of watches I'm wanting to collect or even own. well... I say that now, anyway!
Some terms I have learned:
A "Manufacture" is a factory or house that creates watches from slag.
A true "Watchmaker" makes watches. From chunks of steel are made timepieces.
A "watch company" produces watches from cases and movements brought together frm outside sources, although they may commission the case style and the dials to create a wholly original style of watch.
An "Atillier" (spelling check please?) assembles watches from produced pieces.
I tinker.
I like taking things apart, cleaning them and putting them back together. Someday I may take a course and in my fantasy life I could become an atillier (again, check spelling!) but I'll never be a watchmaker. Those guys are magicians, alchemists, and uh, brainiacs! I'm just a mystery writer who likes ripping into watches. Although many many times they tick afterwards! (Sometimes thay weren't ticking beforehand!)
If someone wants to say they are a watchmaker, fine. I'll want to see their workshop and will hold off the stunned slackjaw gape until they show me how they make hairsprings in their garage.
I like the crew here. We don't call ourselves nuthin'! Just a buncha Timexicans! We like the watches! "We don't need no stinking badges!" (I don't know what that means here, but it seems like the attitude we foster!)
I was bragging on myself in the original post becaue I owe it to THIS GROUP that I can do all these things! I never would have done this much on my own!
Well, it seems that my definition of a watchmaker has created somewhat of a debate on the topic. While, I still think that the term originally applied to craftsfman who made the entire watch movement and case, it can also be, somewhat more loosely, applied to those who have to hand make an occasional part to repair some antique watch or clock movement. That also requires a fairlly high degree of mechanical skill.
Whether or not the Timexicans here are "watchmakers" is, ultimately, in the eye of the beholder. Many people here are polishing their own cases and replating them, exchanging stems from one watch to another and cutting the stem to make sure it fits a different case, combining parts from different watches to make "Franken watches" with a unique appearance. No, they are not turning fresh wheel staffs or winding their own hairsprings, but I would still consider what they do to qualify, at least, at the lowest level of watchmaking. One must remember that the basic Timex movement was considered disposable. If it was not, and required the actual making of parts, then I am sure that a large percentage of the people here would probably be doing that!
I think that the trend toward disposability, even in high-end timepieces, is here to stay. It is now cheaper to manufacture an entirely new movement then it is to try and repair a damaged one by making and installing new parts. Yes, it's a sad trend, but one that has been obvious to me for several decades now.
I think that even if one is not exactly functioning at the level of the original watchmakers of centuries ago, one can still legitimately take pride in what they can do with regard to collecting their Timex watches. Finding a beaten up, non-running Timex at a flea market and then restoring it to almost like new condition IS something to be proud of...whether one is called a "watchmaker" or not.
Yepp, I agree with your post! We don't make watches from scratch, but we do restore watches: we clean movements, can change the odd wheel, can replace a balance wheel, stem/crowns, etc. I think it at least qualifies to "watch restorer".
I have taken several Swiss watches apart, cleaned every part and put them back together again. I know this does not qualify to the title "Watchmaker" ( although I have actually made a few staffs in my shop, but the machinery there are meant for somewhat larger dimensions! ), but maybe "repairer"?
In regards to Timex movements: Even though they appear to be simple and "easy" movements, they are NOT the easiest to disassemble, not to mention REASSEMBLE! Removing the plates is easy enough, but trying to put these back together again requires a steady hand - at least as steady as on any "High Grade" movement - all in my opinion.
I don't know if everyone sees them, but I'm now seeing 'Ads by Google' at the top of the Forum.
Network 54 is inserting them, as they have a right to do apparently, just FYI it's nothing to do with us, just Network 54 selling advertising for themselves.
I'm going through my pre-1963 Timexes to see if I can figure out when they were made. My Seiko/Timex 400 has a faint inkstamp in the back of
10A61
...which doesn't seem to correlate with anything I've seen. Jose's post a few weeks ago on inkstamps doesn't seem to match with this at all, which could indicate that it is 1958, before they started that stamping scheme. Does that sound right?
Someone told you wrong, Charlie. I have several Timex's from the 50's and early 60's with ink stamps on the inside caseback, indicating the year of production.
As my friend Paul Harvey would say: "And NOW, you know the REST of the story."
10A61 as shown by Sevesteen's original post would lead one to belive it means the 10th day of August in 1961. However not all of the stamped codes seem to use the same "logic". Sometimes it seems that the "Alphs" are more like the U. S auto manufacturers, and represent the year very much like the method Enland uses to "Hallmark" gold and silver.I would again appeal to "Fred Olsen" to be more forthcoming with information if he has it. If he intends for this to be a "Deepthroat" type of search for the answers, I not sure it will work.
According to what I've seen here, the last year for the 400 was 1959 or 1960. That's reinforced by my service manual--It covers from 1960 to 1965, and doesn't mention either the 400 or any men's 17 jewel movement.
My best guess is still 1958--First year of the 400, and the last year before the 2 character codes.
Are referring to the stamp on the inside of the back cover? If so, is it possible that the cover on your watch is not original, but swapped in from a later watch?
that the Service Manual does not show the 400, mine does not either . It does show the Ladies 17 jewel series through 1967. Also, in Timex,(the book) it says "In 1959, U.S. Time cased this Hattori movement (the 17 jewel movement)and offered a seventeen jewel watch, called the Timex 400,...". I'm not sure what they were doing in 1958. I also do not know if they stopped production of the 400(Hattori) after only two years 1959 and 1960 so as to exclude 1961 as a possibility. This was the same time period Timex was developing their own jeweled movements.
OK....HERE THEY ARE HERE.....THE NEW AUTO'S....(more)
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Hold on to your hats, Timexicans, I emailed Timex yesterday and got this reply. (This is the text of the email, along with the pix of the new Auto's that have been shipped to retailers)
"Dear Ed,
Thank you for your interest in our products. Here below are our automatic watch styles with their corresponding style numbers you cannot find in our website but maybe available to some stores in your area:
We do not have a listing of where particular watches go, since we ship them to distributors who then distribute them all over the U.S.
We suggest that the best places to look for TIMEX watches are Wal-Mart, and Target, closely followed by JC Penney, Sears, Mervyns and Kohl’s.
I hope this helps. Should you need further assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Sincerely,
Timex Customer Service.kc
Kate"
Hope this get's your "balance wheel" turning today. I'm excited and will start shopping the stores Kate suggested.
I just got back 2 watches that I sent to be serviced, and when I saw your post about the Auto Timex's, was more excited to hear your news. I'm over the 2 I just received and am ready to go look for those Timex's. Thanks for sharing the info Ed.
Wow Ed...finally. Thanks for your efforts with Timex. There's no doubt in my mind that I'll eventually get one of these just because they're a "Timex". I had just about given up hope of ever seeing any in the U.S.
You're welcome, Dorsey. I, too, will buy one just because...(more)
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IT'S A TIMEX!! As I sit here, wearing my 1959 Timex Automatic (One of 5 vintage Timex Auto's I now have in my collection) I can only imagine the excitement and pride of wearing a brand new, 2005 Timex Automatic. WOW, WOW and TRIPLE WOW!!!
.. but do we have any indication as to the quality of these? I had purchased a new automatic skeleton watch a few years ago, and although it looked nice, the movement was still pretty cheap. Where are the movements being produced?
Now wouldn't it be great if the new watches had the same "run's forever" movements as the oldies?!
...very stylish indeed! A nice blend of modern and vintage design. As for the movement: expect a Chinese made 22 jewels movement with a Power Reserve indicator. I have no idea of the quality of these movements, but hopefully Timex will have modified them somewhat. I will of course get one myself - after all it's a Timex. I still have questions about the quality of the movement though... If it is priced at less than $80-90 I guess it's a fair price. I just got a brand new Seiko 5 Racer Automatic with the dependable 7S26 movement ( 21 jewels ) for $32, and to be honest I think the movement in that watch is a tad better than the Chinese 22 jewels.
Still, I am very happy that Timex finally gets on the Auto-wagon. They do look stunning, and I would be proud to wear one!
The basic watch is...okay. I like the exhibition window on the back and the screw down crown. The power reserve indicator is a plus. I could pass on the extra (and somewhat distracting) GMT dial at noon though.
I probably will not be rushing out to buy one, however. I want to see more dial/case/bracelet styles first. So far, I have not seen any two tone models which is what I am really looking for. Also, I'm a little turned off by the high price. I had expected Timex to deliver the watch with a below $100 price tag. For the price they want, I would have to see exactly what I want before I whip out the credit card.
BTW, Timex has some quartz designer models selling for $150.00. So if this Auto comes in under or at $150.00 it is competitively priced.
Either way, I'm getting one just for collection sake. If it turns out to be a "winner", all so much the better.
As for mixing metals....it's done every day. When I wear a gold watch, I still wear my stainless steel military service ID bracelet on my right wrist. No big deal.
Let's enjoy our watches, regardless of the color of the metal. After all, we may start a "new fashion trend".
Thhe Mercury series was made from 1961 to 1971. They were non waterproof and used the #22, 24, and finally the 25 movements.There were even square and rectangular cases as well as the customary round ones.
Sprites were also made from 1964 to 1971 and were Water-RESISTANT. They used the #24 and 25 movements.
From the catalog numbers on the dial you can identify the series. Hope this helps. No expert here but I got the info from sec 4 of my service manual.
I really am limited, in knowlege, to what I can find in the service manuals and mine end at 1971. There are many more versed in Timex lore around here which is why I hang around here to take advantage of it.
My first answer would have been that Sprites dance around to pan pipes in the forests and Mercurys are cars first introduced by FoMoCo back in the 30's.
Marlins are full-sized waterproof, Mercurys are full-size non-waterproof, both with 11/16 straps. The Sportster is a boy's waterproof, 1/2 inch strap, the Petite is similar, but non-waterproof. Sprite is the small men's waterproof, between the Sportster and Marlin in size, with a 5/8 inch strap.
...but if they all have 5/8 inch straps they are, I didn't see anything else that used 5/8 inch. If you wanted a non-waterproof in that size, you were out of luck...
I'm not sure if the date ones are sprite. The non-date military one was Sprite, in a book I have somewhere, the repair guide/catalog. This is my favorite, and probably the most famous of the Sprites, 1972
The "Sprite" series were what I would call Timex's mid-size range. With a case diameter of 30.5-mm they were smaller that the Mercury/Marlin series. There were also squarish Sprite models with some wild dial designs! The "newest" one I have, which I would consider a Sprite model,is from 1977 ( 2377302577 ). I'm not done with the watch, but it has a black dial with bold orange markers ( box ) with a yellow, luminous centre along with yellow, luminous 6,9 and 12 ( date at 3 ). I can post a pic when it's done. The earliest Sprite series I have in the Timex Manual is from 1964 ( 11502464 ).
As far as I know there were no Self-Wind or Automatic in the Sprite series.
The Sprite series were suitable for people with small wrists ( myself included - I have what you might call a "toothpick wrist" - C.W.'s word for a small wrist...! ). I guess teenagers would also have found the Sprite a suitable watch, and also women who wanted a larger kind of watch.
I feel the Sprite series has been somewhat overlooked when it comes to Timex watches - I think they will become more collectable as the years go by. I would assume they did not sell as well as Timex's other watches, and therefore might be harder to find.
There are many sub categories or Model names. Some of these names are still unknown to me. I have heard of or seen; Marlin, Monroe, Mercury, Sprite, Viscount, Sportster, North Hampton, and a bunch of ladies models which I haven't kept up with.
I'm sure thats' just the tip of the iceberg.
Of course recent models would be Reef Gear, Expedition, etc...
That is one of the ugliest Timex's I have seen. You're right. In fact, I don't even think that you would be able to give that watch away. So I'll tell you what I'll do. Send it to me, and I will dispose of it for you so that anyone that see's it won't think that you have bad taste. Just kidding. That is a great looking Timex. Definitely a keeper. Congrats.
There is an article in today's on-line edition of the New York Times titled "Big Hands on the Little Hands." The article appears in the New York/Region section. It may be in print as well. The article discusses the recent upsurge in mechanical watch sales and the correlating effects on the watchmaking industry. Many of you may find the article interesting.
I received an e-mail promotion from Timex for 20% off online purchases. I clicked on the link (above), and this page from their American website has a section showing an automatic-movement watch. That section of the page says "coming soon". I don't know if that's been on their site for a while, but it's the first time I've seen their American website reference automatic movements.
...they are finally going to market these in the U.S.A. They look good! I studied the text on the Polish site ( not that I'm familiar with the Polish language! ) and noticed "+-40". Would that mean that it keeps time within +-40 seconds a day?! If someone knows polish or can make out what the phrase means please let us know. +- 40 seconds a day is not very impressive... The Russian brand Vostok/Poljot keeps better time than that (-20+30 seconds ) and they use their in-house 17 to 31 jewels movement made since the late 50's. As we figured out earlier, Timex uses a Chinese made 22 jewels movement. Just a thought...
I was starting to think (see my last post below) that there was a "secret" plan to deny Americans Timex automatics for some sort of shabby profit motive. I'm glad to see I was wrong. Also I checked out some of the other watches on their site and they are very impressive fashionwise. My "dream" watch just might wind up being a Timex!
That's either a misprint or means +/- 40 seconds per week. If it is, indeed, +/- 40 seconds per day, then I might think twice about buying one. I would find that degree of error per day unacceptable on any watch I was regulating...
...with an online translator. The word "na dzien" means "pr. day" - the timing of this new Timex Automatic is +-40 seconds PER DAY! May not mean very much to some, but I think it's a bit too much - that's close to 5 minutes per week. I don't mean to judge the Timex Automatic just on this, but it seems that for around $100? you can have more accurate watches... Still looks VERY stylish though!
WAIT!!! Before we jump to any conclusions..........(more)
by
let's see how they advertise these automatics to the US market. They may have different movements, such as many makers of automatics have. There's Miyota, ETA, French Debauch, etc, and many watch firms use different movements in different watches.
The ones being marketed to the Polish market MAY NOT be the ones that will be marketed to US market. I believe the Timex "observers" of our Forum website KNOW that the US market will NOT tolerate a +/- 40 seconds PER DAY.
Let's have a little faith that Timex will not market a "junk" automatic product. It would not be advantageous to their "bottom" line. After all, they are investing time and money in marketing this product. PLUS, as someone has already pointed out (Technoguy, I think) they will have to establish service and support for the warranty on these automatics.
Let's wait and hope for the best. Like Charlie, I'm ready to add one to my collection, as well.
Are you saying they jerked those automatics away from us again!!! Man, that's really hitting below the belt. But, if they are as inaccurate as everyone seems to think they are, then, as far as I am concerned, they can keep them. That Orient "Rolex style" watch I briefly owned had a 17 jewel automatic movement and in the first 24 hours that I had it running, it only lost 7 seconds and it only cost $60 USD!
Come on, Timex...you guys can do better than that! We don't expect to get certified chronometer timekeeping for the price you want for those automatics of yours, but +/- 40 seconds per DAY! That's UNACCEPTABLE!
KSR's post saying he had not seen the automatics on the Timex website previously.
I was pointing out that the automatics were NOT on their website Tuesday or Wednesday morning, so they were posted after that. In fact, they have redesigned the site since I last saw it yesterday. I visited Timex by going directly from my browser to www.timex.com, and the automatics are STILL there.
Again, let's go easy on our criticism until we actually see the specs on the automatics for the US market. I firmly believe that we, the Timex Forum, have had some influence in getting Timex's attention that there is a market for automatics.
...of the doubt - yepp, I'll go along with that. After all, Timex is THE brand for most of us here. Still, I bet that they will use the same movements in their U.S. line-up of Automatics - the Chinese 22 jewels movement. But we'll wait and see - maybe they fine-tune it before releasing it.
I don't think there will be many problems, I own many auto's all of which claim something similar (seiko +/- 30 Vostok -40 to + 30 etc) yet on the wrist in daily wear they all perform much better.
One Vostok I had was +20 every day to start with but after about a month or so it settled down to around +5.
I have a seiko 5 that has run at +2 day in day out no matter how I wear it from the day I got it.
Anyone know if these are going to be introduced in the UK?
I know this is a vintage forum, but I think these have a bit of a 70s sort of look to it, and of all the Timex current stock, I might consider wearing them. It costs only 268.00 zl.
Timex: if you send me one of these for free, I'd review the watch.
If they had used the dial only of the watch on the right in the watch on the left and then put some gold tone accents on that left watch (hands, hour numerals/markers, bezel, crown, and center bracelet links), then they might just have made a watch I would actually want to wear!
I generally do not like dials that subdivide the seconds down into subseconds as is used in the dial on the left. That makes it difficult to see how the second hand moves from second to second and is a useless embellishment that can ruin the beauty of a dial.
There they are...the entire lineup of new Timex automatic mechanical watches...on the Timex Polish website. All the wishing and speculation we did here on the Vintage Timex Forum didn't convince Timex to market these watches in the U.S. or elsewhere in Europe. Major sigh here....who can understand the mindset at Timex?
Gruen's Swiss auto, with an ETA 2824 didn't sell at Walmart, and that's probably a good sign that Timex's won't sell in significant numbers either. Too bad they won't offer them direct, but then they'd have to set up warranty service for what would likely be a fairly small number of watches.
Maybe I'm wrong about what the actual demand of automatic watches in the USA is! I mean, everybody on this forum seems to want them and they seem to sell like hotcakes on the cable tv watch shows. But, could it be that the majority of "average" watch buyers just do not want to be bothered with the unreliability of the automatic watch? I mean that they are turned off by its inherent inaccuracy and the need to wear/wind it regularly to keep it from stopping and then requiring that any calendar days/dates be manually reset.
Of course, maybe we in the USA are the victims of some sort of marketing scheme or plan. Perhaps Timex only offers automatic watches where quartz watches do not sell well...like countries where it is difficult or impossible to readily obtain a fresh watch battery? Since watch batteries are plentiful in the USA and maybe not Poland, we are flooded with the Timex quartz watches and Poland gets the automatics! The more I think about this, the more sense it makes...
Many of the Japan-only or Asia-only Seikos are automatics...
by Alan N.
It's hard to find an automatic Seiko in the US. The Seiko '5' model is an exception, but overall there are more Seiko autos sold overseas than in the US. If they sold here, they'd market them. But they don't.
In some country, Walmart/Walgrens/Savon/Target stores are not that known outside of the main cities. Battery availability is a problem. ( besides Seikos are known to be very reliable, even with little to no service- my aunt has a womens 1972 automatic, never been service, she uses it daily today).
I have an auto with very similar movement, probably the same manufacture-I'll see how it fare.( I have so many watches, even if one is very inaccurate, I would never know it.)
Cant wait to see these Timex autos- I'll probably get one (or two) just for heck of it.
I did not catch that, but recently saw a Timex in a movie...
by technoguy
A couple of nights ago I was watching that movie "Jumangi" with Robin Williams. The movie involves a weird haunted board game that causes all sorts of bad paranormal events to take place until the game is completed. The movie has some of the most incredible CGI's (that's "computer generated images") that I've ever seen in a movie.
At the end of the movie, Robin Williams completes the game and is sent back in time to the year 1965. There's a scene right after he arrives back in 1965 where he hugs his female friend and, for a moment, one can see that he appears to be wearing a silver tone Timex watch with a silver tone metal expansion band on it.
I don't usually remember watches in movies, but this one caught my eye and stood out for a moment. I think I had several Timexes like that in the early '60's myself!
I have a number of 50’s era U.S. Time watches with #21 movements, all of which have been cleaned and relubricated. The problem I have with several of these is that they keep terrific time for the first 12 or so hours after full winding, but then rapidly loose time after that. The movements may loose as much as 5 minutes during the next 12 hours after winding. I suspect the problem relates to the mainsprings, which I believe are all original. I assume that the springs have lost much of their “spring” over the years. Does anyone have a different idea on the cause of this problem? Also, if the problem is the mainsprings, does anyone know if there are non o.e.m. replacement springs that will fit? While I have no problem getting these movements apart and back together, fitting a main spring into the barrel is beyond my ability. But I would be willing to send out a set of main barrel assemblies for new springs if it could be done and if I could find somebody willing to do that.
Lack of power to the escapement would be more likely to speed the watch rather than slow it, at least until the lack makes the watch stop. I've had that in an automatic--One of the first I serviced, and it gummed up a few weeks later. Being an automatic, it was kept wound and int he barely running state longer than a manual wind would, and it kept running about 5 minutes fast per hour. When I opened it, I had barely any balance movement. I'm not that good on tricky diagnosis of watch problems (although sheer persistance usually either wins) but I'd look for too much amplitude in the first 12 hours. Unfortunatly I don't know what I'd do if I found it...
I don't know how to measure it either, but you can eyeball an approximation that's good enough for our purposes, especially with a two-spoke balance. If the balance is turning 3/4 of a turn, the watch is in very good condition. Half a turn is fair (probably marginal if it's 1/2 on a full wind), and 1/4 turn means something is wrong and it will probably be gaining time briefly before it stops entirely. 3 or 4 spokes work the same way, but the spokes make it harder to judge.
...and he said it could be a weak mainspring. There's something I've missed in what I've learned about watchmaking. Actually there is a LOT I've missed, but I thoguht I had that covered.
A spring that is no longer as springy as it should be could cause the problem you describe.
Replacing the old mainspring with a new one is not that difficult. New mainsprings come pre-loaded and wound up in a tiny plastic disc. You simply pull out the old mainspring (wear eye protection while doing this because it will suddenly uncoil and expand) and then line up the disc containing the new one with the barrel and push the new mainspring into position. Once it's in, you have to insert the rachet wheel staff and make sure it engages the hole at the inner end of the spring. Then insert the barrel gear with its new sprng and staff into the movement and reattach the rachet wheel. If you do this once, you'll be surprised at how easy it is.
As an alternative to this procedure, you could just exchange the barrel gear for one from another scrap movement and see if that helps the problem.
Hey all
I'm just back from 2 weeks+ persuing my other interest: auto racing. Anyway I just got a interesting watch in a joint buy of a Timex electric. It's a Kelton by US Time in a tank shape. It has the # 20-28106 on the top of the dial. The movement appears to have 3 bridges. Does anyone know how to date this watch. It is currently not running but in remarkably good shape. I will try to get some photos done to post.
Since I don't want to branch out in my collecting, I won't be keeping it.
Hello,
I thought I'd share a couple of pics of a '59 automatic. I cleaned/oil the movement and replaced the auto winding movement section. Thanks to Dorsey for his information and to Phillip G for the auto winding part. I think this watch is in this condition because it broke early in it's life and was put away until 2005.
Now it's back in service.
The second picture shows the crystal sticking up a little tall. Does anyone know the correct crystal for this? I realy think I want to go all out for this one, it's a keeper. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Rob T
You did a fine job on that watch and from what you say, it almost sounds like it's NOS. I also like the protuding crystal and would leave it as it is...kind of reminds me of the "bubble" crystals that are appearing on some high-end Swiss watches.
Your "Viscount" has a military look to it and I am finding that I am becoming a fan of the military style watch of late. The problem is that I want one that has a cool dial and a two tone case...that's hard to find, but I'll keep searching. I know it's out there somewhere.
The other night I came within a gnat's eyelash of buying an Adee Kaye military style watch called "La Lune". What stopped me was that I realized that it had a 55 mm case on it. I like oversized cases/dials and decided to make a paper cutoff model of the watch to see what it would look like on my wrist. Well, it almost looked like a large pocket watch strapped to one's wrist...that dial was big enough to cook a pizza on! The huge amount of luminous paint on it's dial would normally eliminate it from my consideration, but I think they are now using only the new non-tritium containing photoluminescent dial paints.
...on that Viscount. That style and design would look great even today - if I had a chance to buy one new today I would! I especially like the seconds hand with that little "teardrop" on the end - makes it look more expencive and high-end if you ask me. It's those little touches that make a watch stand out - this one does. Great Rob T.!
Knut
PS! If you would let me know the correct diameter of the crystal I can look through mine - I have a box of NOS "Elektroglas" crystals for those very early Timex's.
Something vintage and something newer (relatively)
by Jose
Here is something I just received in the mail.The mechanical is what I just received, and the Quartz has been in my collection for a few years now. Hope you guys enjoy the pics. Hope it works. Waiting for one more vintage part to arrive in the mail. Will post pics of it when it arrives. It is something I have never seen on a Timex watch, but it is still sealed in the factory container, so I know its genuine Timex. Oh and I was in touch with our old friend Semus and he said he sends his regards. Here goes... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/type21970/album?.dir=/b79d
Hey Jose, that is a totally cool Timex. I have had many of them, but they all had bad dials.. you found a good one.
The good thing about that watch is it uses a ladies movement. Timex put them in the thinner watches. If it doesn't run, you won't have any trouble finding a replacement movement.
I never thought about it having a Ladies movement in it. Now that you pointed that out, your right. I always see alot of womens timex's out there. This is my first Timex with this size movement. I just got it so it will be interesting to see how it runs.
Question about "Timex _ Cell" on older quartz casebacks...
by cook
Does anyone know when Timex stopped stamping the battery letter (such as "Timex F Cell") on quartz casebacks? Any info is appreciated...thanks again, Jeff.
Re: Question about "Timex _ Cell" on older quartz casebacks...
by Scott
I'm going to guess..1990's? It seems to me I have a relativlely new watch with the Timex letter-cell stamped into it. My new Expedition has the lithium battery's number stamped into it (CR2016).
John challenged me to open up the watch, and check it out, so I did
It is an unmarked brass movement, looks like the usual #21.
In fact, check out the code at the top, it begins with 21, and I wonder if this references the movement. I don't know what the other numbers represent. Watch still seems to be running fine, which is good, I have bad luck when I open watches!
...pics of this early Timex dial/movement! It's also very interesting to see that "code" at the top of the dial. I would assume that the first two digits indeed indicates the movement. It could also be a military / MIL number? These were issued to the nurses during WWII? Thanks Alan for posting the pics and info!
very much for sharing this information.I just about fell out of my chair this a.m. when I opened the Forum and saw this post. I had no expectation of "challenging" you on this, but I can't tell you how happy I am that you opened the watch and posted the photos.It is a thing of beauty. Does it look like the screw heads have been worked on with a screw driver? I'll bet there was some real serious "legal" discussions within U.S.Time before they put this movement into a watch and called it "Timex" even if it was for the military. This is one of the reasons it's difficult to get a real true picture of an organization like Timex from a book "commissioned" by them ,ie;Timex:A Company and its Community.The "v-conic" was very likly the result of work done for the Government on the fuse timers made during WW-II. I sure wish someone from Timex or the Olsen family would "open up" and discuss this early work. Otherwise it will just get lost in the fog of time. Thanks ,Alan, for the excellent post.
Re: "what is Vintage" thread... No one will disagree this is Vintage...
by Alan N.
Hi folks, I have been gone. Wow, forum speed picking up, I need to catch up. Started reading a few threads I missed, and I guess this one pictured here is definitely vintage. (With kind apologies to the dear old girl, whomever she is, wherever she may be...)
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