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September 22 2009 at 11:30 PM
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It is difficult to pick out the summit of Brocky Peak from a mile away, let alone get one's bearings when you are actually on the peak. As we wandered up and down the west face, George mused "I think Wes's trip report stated something like -- you'd have a tough time accidentally getting off route". Somehow we had managed.

The west face is a really fun route. The first 200 feet(and again higher on the face) contain a few moves of borderline class 5. The climb is probably safe only in August and September when no water or snow is present to lubricate the loose boulders above.

Things started well as we scrambled up Wes's 2007 descent gully. (Described at After the gully widened, we proved Wes wrong and got off route. We continued straight ahead up the obvious gully, but completely missed the less obvious hard right turn which would have put us in line with the summit. As a result, we climbed hundreds of feet to the north ridge, only to be turned back by a huge drop off. After retreating from the ridge crest, we traversed south and climbed the other (correct) couloir before zig-zagging up steeper rock. The outcome was in doubt, but eventually we reached easier ground and the summit.

Overall, we roped up at one spot on the ascent and three spots on the descent. There may have been an easier way, but we did not take the time to find it. As soon as we got down off the steep stuff, it rained.

The route on the west face including our venture to the north ridge.
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George in the initial gully/chimney.
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Where's the top? (answer: the dark gray tower on the right)
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John and George higher on the face.
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  • Re: Brocky - Michael D on Sep 23, 2009, 9:45 AM