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Psycho therapy history...

January 31 2011 at 3:21 PM
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crappyclimber  (no login)

Response to North Face Stuff

I think that line has caught most everyone's eye for the past 30 years. As far as I know, it was originally attempted by Doug Colwell about 1985 or so, and I tried it a couple of times with an old climbing partner Kyle McFarley in the mid nineties. We made it to the crux pitch both times and over the crux pitch the second time but were turned back due to darkness and we had been on the route for several hours longer than necessary. It originally had a name of the Screamer gully because of the rockfall that came through it when it was not completely frozen solid.
Dean finally ticked it in fine style...won the honor to name it for good because of the first ascent and now we can just bow in silence to the master....many kudos to him for that climb.
Depending on the year, the gully fills up with ice better than other years, but it will always be a steep, gnarly testpiece for anyone attempting it...take your A-Game, because you will need it!!
Nice to see someone recording the information for everyone to share on a format that is clearer than a napkin at the Pickle in Arco--that's where we got our beta for our first North Face attempt in 1986.


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  • Ice - Bob on Jan 31, 2011, 6:14 PM
    • Re: Ice - Luddite on Jan 31, 2011, 8:44 PM
    • Re: Ice - crappyclimber on Feb 1, 2011, 11:13 AM