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Sac Beta

January 9 2012 at 6:39 AM
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Response to Sacajawea photos

Kevin,

How much do you have in your checking account? Actually, I'll take a breakfast along with that dinner you still owe me and call it good. First of all, we were one cirque from Sac in Sept and forget about that approach if you think you could drive in there. Doublespring Pass is not plowed in the winter so even if you can make it to the pass you've got a long way to go on your snowshoes. It'd consider a snowmobile, ATV, horse or my XC gear (if there was snow...) to get into the Pahsimeroi valley.

Here are some Splattski links you might have missed.

http://www.summitpost.org/sacagawea-peak-id/637070

http://www.splattski.com/2010/sacagawea/index.html

Here is a photo of a route that we made 3 serious attempts on. The red line is the completed part, the yellow unfinished. You're looking at 3 full pitches (red line) so you can get some idea of the scale. The strata is deceiving on first look and it appears to be holdless but most of the fracturing is upward making for some good holds. It's very sharp too so a two-rope system would be safer to use for sure. Stay away from the deeper gullies unless they are full of ice. When dry, they are all loaded with loose rocks that can unload with one wrong move. I was on the receiving end of this once and it was by and far the worst rockfall I've ever experienced in my life. Call it LRR near-death experience number 3. Some years the gullies ice up, bottom-to-top and you could put together an awesome mixed line but I haven't seen those conditions in the last decade or two. From Borah, I've studied a couple of different different lines that I know would go but would take some real commitment. Like the other big steep LR faces, bailing off is not a good option. I think the thought of rapelling on some LR rock is what drove us to finish almost everything we started up there. Dean's route is to the far right in this photo and like most LR photos, there's foreshortening due to the scale. The approach to the NF of Sac is the same one we used for the EF of Borah. Bob

Photobucket



 
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