First time up the Open Book on The Finger, was in 1972 with Harry & Chris. The "local-word" was that it was a 5.6.
Harry led the first pitch in his REI imitation RRs (Royal Robbins shoes the blue-suede shoes of the early 70s hard-men). He slipped and fell a couple feet at the hard part, but caught himself.
Chris led the jam-crack in his RRs and pounded in a couple bongs for protection.
I wore mountain boots that did not fit the jam-crack, and although I got up it, I was terrorized the whole way.
Five years later in 1967: my climbing ability was much improved, but the Open Book was still rated 5.6. Mike & I slept at the trailhead and trotted in with hiking boots. I had assured him we would not need rock shoes.
Bear in mind, this was the era of 150 ropes.
He led the first pitch, and mentioned loudly that it didnt feel like 5.6. When I followed, it did seem a bit stiff for a 5.6.
When I led the jam-crack lead in my hiking boots: I was just as terrorized as I had been 5 years earlier following it. The hiking boots stuck in the crack, but felt horribly wrong. I nearly fell off the traverse part at the end of the lead, because I could not smear in my boots.
We got up it!
Cant believe, Ive never climbed that route again. 5.8 for sure------- I hear.
