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exploring Mount Doom

July 11 2011 at 7:30 PM
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pat  (no login)

From the top of Peak 11080 George pointed out a ragged jumble of towers to the west. He casually commented "Let's see if we can climb that one too. It's called Triple Peak."

"It looks awfully far away and S-C-A-R-Y" I responded, sensing a misadventure was about to begin.

"Let's go take a look" George said. "We can always bail off if it's too hard."

So down off we went. Ultimately George, John and I made it to the north of Triple Peak. Why it's called Triple Peak is a mystery. It doesn't have 3 summits, it's more like 8. A more appropriate name would be Mordor, Mount Doom, Fortress of Solitude or something more awesome. Triple Peak - we can do better!

Armed with obscure beta and failing memories, we sought out a rotten ramp, "keyhole", and easy ledge traverse. We explored the west face up and down. We found lots of keyholes, ramps, and rotten gullies. At one point we were on the skyline ridge less than 100 feet from top, between the two biggest towers - the center and northeast. To be honest, I am not sure where we were. The place was a maze. Ultimately, all the loose rock and exposure winked us out and we called it quits. We were vanquished.

Rest assured, we will return. It's a wild place.


Triple Peak (the lower jumbled peak in the foreground) from Peak 11,080 summit.
[linked image]


From the North.
[linked image]

N. Face of Breitenback
[linked image]


John and George descending from our high point on the skyline ridge at right edge of photo. [linked image]


More towers.
[linked image]


"Let's get out of here." The pass to the South.
[linked image]

We reached the saddle between the two highest towers (I think). We'll be back.(George photo)
[linked image]

 
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AuthorReply
Geo
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Dry Creek Slideshow

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July 11 2011, 9:29 PM 

Peak 11,100' (a.k.a. Peak 11,080') summit panorama:
click for slideshow
(click on the pic for slideshow)

Has the last NSPSV Idaho 11er now been climbed?

-George

 
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Dave
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Fantastic

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July 11 2011, 9:47 PM 

Nice work guys. Those are pretty big smiles in the summit shots. Too bad the scenery wasn't better.

 
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Another Dave
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Whitworth Memorial

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July 13 2011, 12:29 AM 

Great report and wonderful photos. I don't know the story of the Whitworths demise. Do you happen to know the story of what happened to those two in June of 1956?

 
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R Baugher
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A milestone

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July 11 2011, 9:41 PM 

With this ascent by the team of McGrane, Reinier, Roache, all 114 Idaho ranked eleveners have now been climbed.

The first recorded ascent of an Idaho 11000' summit was probably by ET Perkins in 1894 (Ryan Peak, Devils Bedstead).

As you can see, this collective effort took 117 years to complete.
With this in mind, I'd suggest a good name for your Peak 11100 would be 'Mount Holdout'.

Congratulations gentlemen.... and now, onward to those sweet teners.

 
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Tom lopez
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Triple Peak

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July 12 2011, 3:28 PM 


I climbed this peak on my third attempt several years ago. It a challenging peak dominated by rotten rock. I have only climbed the two highest summits. The third one looks like fun. To me there the three highest summits made it triple peak. The link is below.

http://idahoaclimbingguide.com/Triple%20Peakid173.htm

 
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pat
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Re: Triple Peak

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July 12 2011, 6:26 PM 

Tom,

I wish I had paid more attention to your trip report. We were on the opposite side of the mountain when we started looking for a potential route. Eventually we found a really loose 3rd class gully on the west face sandwiched between two towers that lead to within 200 feet of the high ridge. Those 200 feet were 4th class rock and dirt. After reaching the top of the ridge, it was difficult to tell which way to go because there were higher spires on either side and the difficulty was now 5th class. We had left the rope in our packs below. A fall or broken handhold would have been fatal. Not knowing whether to go North or South (and seeing that both directions were dicey), retreat beckoned. The high point was somewhere along the ridge in the background of your summit photo. After loosing some altitude, we continued to traverse ramps and steep snow (and talus) until we eventually made it to the south side of the mountain. By that time we were too worn out for another summit attempt.

You showed a lot of grit doing multiple summit attempts. Next time we will try your route. From the talus below, it too looks improbable.

 
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splattski
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Re: exploring Mount Doom

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July 13 2011, 9:58 AM 

Gnarly, dudes.
Regarding the rope arrangement on the summit- were you setting an anchor, or trying to tie down all the loose rock? wink.gif

 
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pat
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Re: exploring Mount Doom

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July 13 2011, 5:02 PM 

I'll put it this way; we chose NOT to rapell off the summit anchor on Peak 11080. We preferred to belay the downclimb. It was low fifth class.

 
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Geo
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Anchorage

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July 13 2011, 6:16 PM 

Looks bomber to me...
IMG_0310.jpg

happy.gif

-George

 
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