Here's my family version of our climbs on Wednesday.
Frank drove over from Bend on Monday and the next morning we drove to Moore, Id where we met up with Wes Collins. From Moore we drove north through MacKay and up past Mt Borah to Doublespring Pass to the east side of the Lost River Range where the road ends at the upper reaches of the West Fork of the Pahsimeroi River. After we got there Wes had to drive back down the worst 6 miles of road you could imagine to pick up Kevin at Mahogany Creek. He brought his Geo Metro and didnt stand a chance at getting all the way in to where we camped and spent the night. On Wednesday we split into two groups and Wes and Kevin headed for the North Face of Sacajawea and Frank and I to the East Face of Mt Borah. We all left camp around 6:00 AM and did not get back until after dark. Wes and Kevin made it into camp around 10:30 and it must have been midnight when Frank and I rolled in. Frank and I put a new route up that combines the East Face and Northeast Ridge while Kevin and Wes did the first full ascent of the North Face of Sacajawea. When both our teams were within a few rope lengths from the summit a cloud rolled in and within minutes we were engulfed in a whiteout along with freezing rain and snow. Luckily it only lasted about 15 minutes and the sun came out and dried things out quickly. I did not take many pictures once we started the roped climbing. I would have banged it up for sure so I put it in my pack for most of the climb and besides, if someone who had acrophobia saw them theyd barf. For Frank and me it was a magnificent way to celebrate our now 40 year climbing relationship by bagging a major new first ascent in the Lost River Range.
July 25, 2012
East Face/Northeast Ridge Variation
Grade III 5.6 WI2
The night before rack up. Hope we pick the right gear
Kevin, Frank and Wes near where we split up for our separate approaches to the cirques
The magnificent East Face Cirque of Mt Borah
Looking down at the tarn
Looking straight up the East Face. We went up diagonally to the right
Frank putting on his crampons before starting up the snowfield that leads to the start of the rock
High up on the East Face
We climbed the steep tongue of snow behind Frank
The traditional summit (Splattski) self portrait
The two faint figures on the top of Sacajawea Peak are Wes and Kevin. We both made our summits
at the same time and carried two-way radios that allowed us to communicate for most of the day.
The North Face of Sacajawea Peak and our descent route (note the setting sun)
We joined the Northeast Ridge route by climbing up the snow (top center). We named the folds
in the strata on this part of the face The Super S.