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Shapeways 3D stuff

March 1 2017 at 5:05 PM
Doug Bauer  (Login drop-off)
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Just bought the driver compartment for the Meng "Shilka" from Shapeways - man, I couldn't believe the detail in those things!! I've never worked with this 3D stuff before, does anyone have any experience with it? I primed the parts with automotive primer, and have yet to cut the pieces from the sprues - are there pitfalls? I know it's pretty fragile stuff so any advice will be greatly appreciated. TIA

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Marc Brandes
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Re: Shapeways 3D stuff

March 2 2017, 6:36 AM 

I've used 3D printed items and just treat them as regular plastic parts. Prime with Tamiya rattle can and airbrush with Tamiya acrylics.

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roy chow
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3D resin

March 2 2017, 7:44 AM 

Examine the parts after you've primered. Sometimes minute ridges appear, a remnant of the printing process. If so, sand or file down those ridges and primer again.

Use a razor saw when removing from the runner -- don't try to force it like you would normal resin parts. Use CA to affix to your model. Good luck!
Roy Chow
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Mark Ford
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wash it

March 2 2017, 12:07 PM 

I have bought some of the Shapeways products for myself. Instructions highly recommend washing the parts in warm soapy water to remove any of the "wax" material before assembly and paint.

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Doug Bauer
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Thank you for your input, men! N/T

March 2 2017, 1:53 PM 

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Mike Goldberg
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Re: Shapeways 3D stuff

March 8 2017, 2:29 PM 

Everything that the above members said but before priming, you should've let the parts sit in sunlight or under a UV lamp for a few hours to cure any uncured resin. Then rinse the parts in warm soapy water or soak them in dish detergent and lightly scrub with a soft brush to remove grease or wax. You could also soak the parts in White Spirit (but nothing stronger) for a few minutes and then let dry completely. Then prime the parts with acrylic primer. Do **not** use any solvent based paints on the 3D printed parts because the paints could not dry properly and at worst melt the resin. I'm even weary of using Tamiya "acrylics" because they aren't true acrylics and are flammable.

To attach the parts I'm sure you're aware that you need to use CA or super-glue.

This message has been edited by MikeyBugs95 from IP address on Mar 8, 2017 3:44 PM

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Cliff Leverette
(Login J.Clifford)
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I know the pitfalls...

March 10 2017, 2:31 PM 

the items had tiny bumps all over them. Great for helmets trying to look like the paint had sand poured in like a lot of GI helmets had, but the bumps didn't look so great on a stamped metal gun part. As for the helmets, I wish I had known about the solvent thinner paint prohibiton. Two weeks later, the helmets were soft and sticky. So, watch out, boys! Don't do what I did or you'll end up at the House of the Rising Yelp.

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