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TF 49, lots of pics, including teardown. Dial-up beware

April 14 2007 at 6:19 PM
  (Login 144man)
YF12

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Here’s the cool muzzlebrake

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Here’s the plastic trigger and guard.

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The buttpad is very well fitting.

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The safety is in a weird position for me, requiring the left hand to release it before bringing the gun to battery. It does have a very positive click when released. Once released, it cannot be reset. However, it can be released when the barrel is fully broken, allowing the gun to be uncocked if you hang on to the barrel.

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The bluing is nice, but the metal finish underneath is basically brushed, typical for Chinese guns.

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The cocking stroke is very light, but also quite long, with the barrel going through quite a bit more than 90 degrees.

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The breach seal is a synthetic o-ring, which is already exhibiting some damage on the bottom, after only a couple hundred shots. I’ll have to find out what it’s snagging on.

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Here’s a picture of the cocking slot.

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The wood finish is really a cut above what I’d expect from a Chinese gun. They’re getting better at this for sure.

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Like I said, the metal is a brushed finish, but the bluing is deep and uniform.

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There are some nice unexpected touches inside the stock, like the steel collar for the rear action mounting screw, and the reinforcing screw down through the pistol grip.

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The inletting is the best I’ve ever seen on a Chinese gun. No frayed edges, and it fits tightly.

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The trigger is a plastic extension onto a folded metal piece. More on the trigger later.

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Nothing too surprising at the front end. More of a vintage style, with the smaller lockscrew.

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One of the interesting things I found was that the metal you see when the gun is fully assembled looks pretty uniform. The stuff that’s concealed by the stock looks pretty rough. Labor-saving, for sure, but not what you see when you take the stock off a European gun. But then, this one didn’t cost $300.

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The cross-drilled muzzlebrake is held on with three setscrews, which go into three dimples in the barrel, very secure. Again, the barrel under the muzzlebrake is barely finished.

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When you remove the plastic rear endcap, you’re faced with this rather daunting array of small springs and a tiny roll-pin, all part of the automatic safety.

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You have to cock the gun to remove the safety itself. Fortunately, you can safely uncock the gun before proceeding.

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Once again, the front end is pretty basic.

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The cocking arm is folded steel, but its squeezed tight and then machined, giving the feel of a solid piece of metal, very stout.

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The right sized socket in the spring compressor allows you to take the pre-load off and drive out the retaining pin.

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The trigger is pretty much a direct-sear, with a laminated steel center section. Short of polishing the engaging surfaces, there’s little I could come up with to reduce trigger effort. As I’ve said before, it’s a stiff trigger, but it breaks clean without creep. I was careful not to alter the geometry of the engaging surfaces, but I did bring them to a mirror shine.

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The spring is 33 coils of .115 wire, and mine has already taken a set. The factory steel guide fits tighter than I’ve seen in any Chinese gun, and tighter than I’ve seen in some European guns. I was going to shrink-tube it, but there was no room. There’s a little slop, but not much. I was very tempted to cut a few coils off a JM XL-SQ spring I have laying around and put that one in, since it fit the guide perfectly, but I elected to wait on that modification, and reassemble it as stock.

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The factory piston seal was a little nicked up, but not too badly damaged, so I buffed it up, back-cut the rear sides a little, and reinstalled it. The factory seal is about .42 thick, so I considered substituting a .20 thick JM Apex small seal I have in the parts box, which would have gained a little stroke volume, but that would have required making a new attachment screw, so once again, I went with the factory setup. This picture shows how it came out of the gun. Notice the grease in the groove.

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After a thorough cleaning and degreasing, the inside of the compression tube showed a near-mirror finish. Again, something I’m not used to seeing in a Chinese gun. I de-burred all the slots and holes, squared up the ends of the factory spring, gave it a light dose of heavy tar, put a bit of moly around the back side of the seal and on the piston skirt, polished the sear surfaces, put a tiny dab of moly on the sides of the cocking shoe, and some on the faces of the breachblock and the pivot bolt, and put the whole thing back together.

It now cocks like a hot knife through butter, and shoots with no drama whatsoever. The trigger is still stiff, but still breaks without noticeable travel, it just takes a good deal of pressure. While I had the muzzlebrake off, I recrowned it with a round head bolt and some polishing compound, just for good measure. Accuracy is still pretty much single ragged hole at 7 yds in the basement, except now it shoots with a simple thump.

I have no idea how fast its shooting. I don’t own a chrony, and frankly, I don’t care that much. As long as the pellet goes where I want it to, that’s ok with me. But my guess is somewhere in the low 600s.

Overall, I’m pleased with the gun. Its also nice to know that I still have some potential, with the JM XL-SQ spring and Apex seal. For the time being, I’ll shoot it in home-tuned factory spec.


I think we're all Bozos on this bus.

 
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