Dave...my advice will be a little different than Roberts, our approaches are different.January 28 2012 at 5:10 PM
|scot laughlin (Login classicalgas)|
Response to Thanks, guys...
Both work. Here's what I'd do...
Align bore the valve seat square to the stem hole, and fit a nylon head valve that's shaped in a truncated cone, fairly small clearance to the valve body wall. The small end is just large enough to give a good seat area, and undercut at about 3 degrees.
Find a small stainless spring, in the 1/4"-5/16" OD range, and put it on a pedestal in your opened up valve body, to get it out of the air flow, and increase the valve volume near the valve seat. You might be able to take a little off the stem length, too, tiny increases in striker throw are often usefull.
Open your bolt probe way up, or go to a wire probe.
Poly port seal
Oval port..stock od at the bore, but longer, and port seal ID at that end.
Cut your striker weight in half, by shortening, boring, and flat siding it.
If power is less than you want, take a thou off the outer edge of the valve cone,and try again....tiny changes here make big power differences with this wide open setup
Power won't be a problem,I get 900-930 fps in .20 or .22 with 14.3's, from 2200 down to 900 psi with this setup.Drop off at the end of the curve is near vertical..should work fine with your 1000 psi output reg.