TS-45 Schematic?December 10 2016 at 2:10 PM
|Montivagant (Login Montivigant)|
I have a TS-45 side lever that my father picked up years ago. Like my FWB's, I'd like to disassemble and tune her up to use as a loaner. I can't seem to Google-fu any relevant info in that regard. Anyone with some helpful hints, schematic drawing or secret youtube vid of the porcess? I have a spring compressor if one is required.
I have a "Fast Deer" document. But your private e-mail does not show
|December 11 2016, 12:27 AM |
Give an address, And I'll send you the .doc.
|December 11 2016, 2:59 PM |
|December 11 2016, 4:11 PM |
The TS45 is basically the same as the XS B3 ak type sidelever Air rifle. There are some online tune and disassembly guides online if you search under that name. I have tuned a few TS45s, a lot of time the internals are very crude so you can make them shoot better.
|Tim Ward |
Had one of my TS45's out
|December 14 2016, 1:10 PM |
to shoot the other day. I bought it at a pawn shop in Lenoir, N.C. a couple of months ago while staying with relatives. I was born in Lenoir and had escaped the hurricane and was waitng for the Hickory air gun show. I already had a TS 45 in .177 also. Had one in .22 way back and sold it to a bud. I also had an old .177 QB6 out back to shoot. I just got it in the mail to go with my .22 QB6. Also had .177 Peak B3-1 AK out to shoot. They all shot good at about 23 yards. Shot them all with open sights. Had a clamp on Industry Brand rear sight on the QB6 and had a AK/SKS front sight adjustment tool for the AK and TS45. Shot Peak and Hobby w/c thru them. All of it was in the 500-600 fps range. They all could use new springs and seals. Might have to drag out the old spring compressor. I have another AK and B3 underlever need tearing down.
Re: Had one of my TS45's out
|December 15 2016, 9:47 AM |
Tim, yeah that sounds like my XS b3 guns as well, I have a XS b7 also, that shoots @700 in .177. All fun guns and pretty easy to tune and shoot.
The two biggest faults in the sliding cylinder chinese springers
|December 16 2016, 4:53 PM |
are the rough and out of round cylinder, and the basic single lever trigger. When you start to polish the cylinder out, you'll see that when it was made, it was chucked in a three jaw chuck so tight that the thin walls were distorted.
A strap wrench to hold it, and a home made rigid hone (slotted tube near the correct OD, wrapped with abrasive cloth) will let you true and smooth the cylinder.
Stone the trigger sear and piston hook(or notch)don't change angles.
Then sleeve the steel guide with teflon heat shrink tube, true and polish the spring ends, put a hardened and polished washer (thrust bearing washers) front and rear of the spring, do a basic fire lap, touch up the crown...that's about 90% of what you can do without major effort. I've tried parachute piston seals, o-ring heads, and the original leather. the leather makes the most power, o-ring is most consistent.
A bit of neat foot oil on the leather goes a long way
|December 16 2016, 10:44 PM |
A long way towards smokin' hot velocities.
And that doesn't bother me a bit
In fact, It's fun.
That distinctive smell, and yellow haze in the bore...
|December 17 2016, 2:18 PM |
its a vintage springer moment.
|Tim Ward |
Nothing smells like an old chinese gun
|December 17 2016, 11:33 PM |
I don't do that much to them now. Clean the gunk out, new spring and seals, grind the ends of the spring, soak the seal in some kind of non petroleum oil. I just stick the ends of the spring in the can of molly, just a couple of coils. Put some molly lightly on the spring guide. A couple of mollied up washers in front and one in back if it doesn't interfer with the sear. Simple stuff.