Anonymous (Login gringovw) from IP address 65.93.164.195
what would be the perfect set-up for a JH (1.8 8v) engine? (cam, spring ,exhaust system size,turbo...)and what do tou think about lowering the stock 8.5 cr to 7.8 by machining the piston (with a lathe)?
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no need to lower the c/r. read this, its a great starter turbo setup:
stage I
200 hp the easy way with oem realability
1.find a low mileage 8.5 comperssion 8v 1.8 old gti`s and golf will work
just fine..
2.a g-60 head or any digifant head will do..somtimes making a deal for the
head and fuel injection off a corrado,wich is what you need next.can save
money
3.fuel injection from a corrado.the ecu harness and all the senors.
4.a thottle body, with provisons for throttle switches such as a g-60 or any
late model golf gti or any 16v
5.just about any garret t-3 turbo will do..good ones are on intercooled
saab900s ,ford turbo coupes,volvos and mid 85-86, nissan 300zx about the best
one you can get..
6..a turbo manifold from 8v turbo.com they can supply feed and return lines
for oiling and a bolt on oil pan too..
7.ok now for the fun parts..a set of arp or simliar head studs.
8.a corrado three layer metal head gasket.
9.a garret stage 4 chip for a g-60 and a porsche 944 fuel presure regulator
and possibly a 260 degree cam.but a stock one will work fine.
9.5 a blow off valve off a first generation eclipse or and aftermarket one
will work fine
10.ok you got the fuel now and the boost ,you need something strong to light
it off
go for a set of..audi 1.8t plugs they fit good and have a good heat range.or
stock g-60 plugs will work but are expensive.
11.highly reccomened by me is a msd box..a 6a or 6al will work wonders .trust
me.you`ll love it.
12.a good set of plug wires.highly reccomend magnecore 8.5`s
13 a boost comtroller..I like manuel ones like hallman valve or one from
extreme motorsports..they are easy to make your self but even easier to
buy..electronic ones tend to be confusing especially if this is your first
turbo project.
14 last but not least an intercooler ones off an audi 5000 or even a a
stock g60 work great or one off a starion or one of a volvo and of course if
you can afford it a nice spearco.Avoid using saab 900 intercoolers they are a
peice of SHIT. Unless they're modified to be a single pass IC.
ok time to assemble everything and double check your supply lines to make
sure have good oiling for the turbo....set all the spec back to the oem
settings on the g-60 stuff and start off with about six pounds boost..with
ALL THE PARTS you should be able tun run 15-18 pounds of boost safely..a
halmeter or cyberdyne airfuel meter will tell you if you are lean or not
always try to maintian around 12.-1 a/f ratio..if you get too lean (13.5-1 OR
LEANER) back out of it..also always use premeum fuel.
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The G60 head has sodium filled exhaust valves, but i don't think a regular digi head would be any better than a CIS one.
I think "stage 1" should drop the digifant, and replace the stock cis injection with Volvo or Saab Turbo CIS injection, because it's a bolt in deal. No wiring, fuel rails, pressue regulators or computers to fuck with. Plus it can be had for 30 bucks at the junkyard
The Volvo stuff will be good to around 210 horsepower, which is plenty for stage 1
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>>I think "stage 1" should drop the digifant, and replace the stock cis injection with Volvo or Saab Turbo CIS injection, because it's a bolt in deal. No wiring, fuel rails, pressue regulators or computers to fuck with. Plus it can be had for 30 bucks at the junkyard
The Volvo stuff will be good to around 210 horsepower, which is plenty for stage 1 <<
Yeah but there's people that have done the G60/turbo swaps and had good results,so far the volvo/saab stuff is just a "yeah,that should work" some one needs to do it and run it.
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I've been running the Volvo turbo CIS injection for months Running 5-7 psi with good A/F ratios, I love it! And it will be cake to switch back to regular cis for smog.
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I don't have my egt hooked up, and i've never had it on a wide-band, but my Cyberdyne 10-bar gauge shows usually 9 bars on boost. sometimes 10 bars and rarely 8 bars. AFAIK these bars correspond to .1 volts, so 9 bars is .9 volts.
I'm using a 4 wire o2 sensor for the best accuracy too.
With 97 mph trap speed, I'm figuring about 165 horsepower. 50-trim T3, .48 A/R, non-intercooled
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is running the Volvo 240t fuel dist, although I haven't heard from him in a while, dunno how that's truly working out. Last I heard the car ran well but that's all I know about it.
Come to think of it, that won't be a good gauge for anything "stage 1" being discussed here, as he's using the VMAS set up to make his CIS programmable....
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