You can use this jig setup for both the alaskan mill and the mini mill. Irregular shaped logs, with branches will not hinder you from making the first cut. After that, you use the surface of the first cut for your next cut. That means your first cut must be a good one.

This is a 20' 6" long white pine log that is 30" or more in diameter. I cut at least 6 good slabs, full length. I got $30 a linear foot for the 2" and $50 a linear ft for the 3". I actually used my 5' Alaskan mill on this tree.

This picture shows how I modified the jig for easy adjusting. There are holes set apart about 3" for the pin to be inserted and the eye bolt can raise or lower the sides of the saw to get a level cut. The long slides are barn door rolling tracks.

This picture shows how the mini mill can be used in conjunction with the Alaskan mill to make the first of two cuts that will remove a perfect 90 degree piece from the back of a log that was then used to fit over the corner of a wall that turned into a hallway. The aluminum angle guides are screwed to a 2" by 8" piece of treated wood.

This picture shows how you can level a cedar stump, to be used as a base for a glass table top. Since I did not have a level surface to start with, I made another jig, using 4 leveling jacks for scaffolding with sections of 4X4 beams with holes cut in each end. By leveling them and placing the stump on them I could use the Alaskan mill to give me a perfectly level top to the table with one cut.

This is an 066 with a 3" Alaskan Mill set up to level an irregular stump for a coffee table. Notice I have wedges under part of the stump as this is the first cut. I then flipped the stump over and leveled the other side.

My post was to long and I could not put this extra hints on the first segment.

Special hints. Make the end of the log you start at higher than the other. This will allow gravity to assist you in moving the saw, just enough to make a difference.
Decide where you want to start your cut. Mark and measure the distance after you level that end of the jig.
Then mark the other end where you want the saw to come out and adjust that bar to be the same height from the mark as the other end of the jig.
Don't stop the cut, but slide a sedge in the beginning of the cut as you are moving the saw. You should have two more shallow angle wedges to put into the end of the log, just before you reach the end to keep the log from pinching the chain.
I have three different lengths of rails, from 8' to 12' to 18' so as to accommodate different length logs.
For the 20' 6" log I used three of the hurdle looking cross pieces and the two 18' and 12' barn door rails to maintain a level cut. You can cut as long of a beam that you want using this method.

I hope this adds a greater dimension of what you can accomplish with 100% chainsaw and add to you product line.

great setup got some good ideas

Thanks Dave, you just made my world of slabbing a whole lot easier!

thanks for sharing

Thanks Dave for taking the time to show me this, it looks a good set up, I will still probably start with the ladder but will keep these pics for the future, I have a 10' trailer at the moment so will be able to carry 10 to 12' guide rails around with me.

Your just like my old man was, You put many a young man to shame with the ammount of graft you get stuck into!

Thanks, Tommy

And here's some pics of the Away with the Fairys carving, preserver & oil applied'
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Thanks, tommy