Anyone else use this saw and have a problem with 1/4 pich chain kinking up. It seems to run very rough around the bar even when it is new. All parts are stihl from the 1/4 sprocket to the bar. Been having this problem for a year. I can only get about 1/4 of the life of the chain.
I was baffled when my 346xp was doing that with a 14" quater tip 3/8lp chain, the chain would not turn smootly by hand even when new, a lot of head scratching and chain snapping and a few years later realised that it would turn nicely before I tightened the clutch housing casing up.
I do tighten them up maybe to tightly because I don't like losing the nuts, but this was not the case, as soon as I nipped it up the casing would pinch the bar rails slightly, and nip the chain, like the bar was not wide enough resulting in a kinking action of the chain.
I ground the metal plates where this was happening and its cured the problem.
I also did this with my 357 and the toonie bar although it was not as bad.
Anybody else had this problem, or do you think my nuts are to tight, maybe if I wore bigger shorts it would be even better!
Tommy
I have been using chain from Bailey but have also tried other types. I guess I will try filing the drivers to make them a little more narrow. It might be that the rails are getting pinched tight as mentioned above. I have also tried my other 12" bar that I got from Baileys and it does the same after a while.Thanks for the input.
Mitch, sorry if i'm cofusing the matter, I was talking about a Cannon bar on my Husky,
It should not be the case with yours as I have run a 12" cannon dime tip 1/4 pitch on my MS200 and I have a 10" Sthil carving bar on it now with 1/4 pitch and they are both fine.
If you want to check the problem I had, just tighten the casing up lightly and see if it the chain turns smootlhy.
A very complex cause and effect problem going on here.
Make sure there is plenty of oil to the chain in all saw positions.
Make sure the sprocket isn't too worn.
Be sure to be using modified chain (back third of the tooth taken off), or use the special Sthil chain for carving bars.
If chain has kinked badly, has it damaged the bar near the tip? if so dress the bar clean again.
Are you running the chain too slack? (get your finger between the bar and chain on the bottom side)
Might be the backs of the cutters and tie straps are hitting off the entry to the bar.
Are you running the chain too tight. Chain doesn't run round bar easily and over run after you flick it round (new chain). Might be creating too much heat.
Doing a lot of plunge cutting in dry, hard, wood? It's going to overheat and probably stiffen up anyway.
As long as the chain hasn't gone too far you can loosen it up again.
Put it into a vice and grip the rivets on a tie strap behind a cutter. Take the loose part of the chain in front of the cutter in hand (wearing a glove)and twist it sideways and back and forward and all over the place close to the point where it will break. Do this all the way round the chain (takes about half an hour).
The chain will loosen up once more and be ready for some more abuse.
The object of the excercise is to squish flat all the internal burrs, from mainly the heel of the cutters, that catch on the sides of the drive links and make the chain go stiff in the first place.
If you don't dress up the the tip of a chipped bar before putting the chain back on it'll just stiffen up again very quickly.
This is just a small part of the story.
I hope it helps.
Cheers
Mick
Well that is some good information. I have been carving for about 6 years now as a hobbie and have only had this problem with the MS 192. I love the saw, light and little vibration but no matter what I do it still runs rough around the carving bars. Jamie if your the guy who wrote the book "How to chainsaw carve a bear" you have made me a lot of money! Most of the stuff you have mentioned I am aware of exept for the filing of the rivets on the tie straps. Thanks, and I will buy the book too.
