You can use the factory rockers up to about 0.600" lift, as long as the spring force at maximum valve lift is kept under about 350 pounds. The limiting factor is the 5/16" fastener of the factory pedestals. Use the best 5/16" cap screw you can find (ARP?) and make sure to use 4V fulcrums which are made of iron, instead of the 2V fulcrums which are made of aluminum.
The best intake manifold choice is the Blue Thunder intake. One step down from that is the Edelbrock Performer intake. The factory iron square bore manifold has holes sized for the ~600 cfm Autolite 4300A carburetor. Some guys just install a 4 hole spacer and live with the "lips" in the holes where the 4 hole spacer meets the smaller manifold holes. There's a trench above the primaries that gets very thin if you open the holes up for a larger carburetor. I modified a factory manifold long ago, brazed the trench, had the carb flange milled flat and then bored the holes larger. After doing all the machine work I realized the money spent was close to the price of an alloy manifold. If you plan to go this route you may want to braze up the manifold heat passages too.
For vac secondary carbs I'd recommend a BG #1402020VE if you can find one, or a Quick Fuel #SS-780-VS if you can't find the BG. If you plan to use a mechanical secondary carb go with the Quick Fuel #SS-750-AN.
Its hard to make a cam recommendation unless I know how you plan to use the car, what type of weather it will be driven in, what your expectations are for drivability, reliability, idle quality, stuff like that.
Give the motor a good exhaust system, and don't be afraid to use low gearing, the 4V heads like low gearing. Best wishes with your project.
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If you use a 351C 4V powered vehicle for a grocery getter ... the eggs aren't going to make it home!