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good ground & gear reduction starter.....

April 4 2013 at 10:28 PM
DAVID  (Login D.I.L.L.I.G.A.S.)
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from IP address 108.208.41.182


Response to timing?

I have seen where not having a good enough ground can hurt some drag cars when the battery is in the back, and other drag cars a poorly designed/setup ground never seemed to have any ill effects. But I can also see where mostly "street use" cars with the battery up front and a good ground could/might still have problems with a high compression/high cylinder pressure combos even at less than 12* base if not using a gear reduction starter. It just depends on the car since every car is different.

I know both my Ranchero & Mustang would spin over like crazy when cold even with a lot of compression, and the ignition on, and a gas wet intake plenum with a regular starter. But once they were at temp you had to make sure to remember to get them spinning over first before hitting the ignition switch. And if it was up to temp & you made the mistake of pumping the gas peded first before cranking it over there was no way it was going to spin over easily with the cylinders warm & wet with gas.

Once on a friend's Top Sportsman car we had just installed the engine/trans late one night after they were freshend up & were getting ready to fire up & check for leaks. This car has both an aluminum front motor plate & steel mid plate, plus 2 steel fore/aft travel limiters. So it had always cranked easily since it had more than enough engine-to-frame grounding points & never needed an engine-to-frame cable. It was getting real late so we just quickly installed the motor/mid plate bolts & left the travel limiters off the car since we were just looking to warm it up before it got too late. What we didn't realize was the motor/mid plates were providing almost none of the engine grounding, the travel limiters were. We fought that damn thing for an hour trying to start it, it spun over so slow. Finally one of us noticed that the mech water temp gauge's copper capilary tube from the intake to the gauge was getting red hot every time we tried to spin it over. I guess the Gauge's copper capilary tube was the path of least resistance between the engine & the frame, fried the gauge real damn good by the time we noticed what was going on. Slapped on the travel limiters & it spun over like a champ & fired up no problem, we felt like such idiots. (lol)

 

 

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