I'm about to do my 500 mile change after rebuild. I plan to just go with a conventional Valvoline 10W40 and an additive w/zinc. My future plan is to go with synthetic. Do any of you suggest that I move to syn now or just get a few more miles under my belt. Also, for those that do use fully synthetic, what interval do you change your oil?

Tim

i use rotela t with a zink addative and every 3000.

....is expensive. I just assumed that we'd be good for at least 5000 miles.

i dont put that many miles on my built motors, they sumtimes dont even get to 3000 when i change the oil so i use good oil and keep it clean, my daily driver gets synthetic blend every 3000+or- a few hundred. treat your motor good and it will last.

I change synthetic oil every 5000 miles. In my dually, I change it ever 10k miles. Oil technology has come a long ways since the days of "change the oil every 3k miles" was the rule set in stone.

As for how soon to switch to synthetic, I wouldnt hesitate to switch now (after the 500 miles.) On my race motors, I would run it on petroleum to break it in, and when I would dump that oil, I would fill the crankcase with synthetic, change the filter, and go racing.

Kidv, you may be right, but im just an old bastard that cant get out of my old ways, i just like to try and keep it clean.

With synthetic oils these days, the oil doesn't need to be changed until contamination limits are reached (carbon, fuel, water) or the additive package is "worn out". The base stock does not break down as readily as mineral oil does.
In an engine that does highway miles, it would not be unreasonable to expect the oil to still be up to task at double the factory specified interval for mineral based oil. It is still a good idea to change the oil filter at the recommended interval though.
I run full synthetic oil in my bike, which for the last two years has done a lot of commuting and short runs. I did a top end inspection recently and was surprised to find absolutely no sludging or carbon build up, looks like brand new inside. No wear on valve buckets either.

because I wasn't even putting on a thousand miles per year. 500 miles is ok to change over to synthetic oil.

i put about 1500 a year on one and about 3000 on the other, i try to change it every year. there comes a point when oxidation occures in oil and it needs to be changed regaurdles of the miles.

Yes, I agree, I stretched it out only due to the high cost, so I went with a conventional 10w30 diesel oil, now changed in the fall each year, before it goes into winter storage.

I read this a while back. It's intresting reading.Personaly I change the syn oil in both my trucks at 5000 miles. A 2006 supercrew and a 2007 150.I hope the link works.




http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html

sorry this link should take you to the mobile 1 result:


http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

Headed to O'reilly's for their sale on synthetic. 3.99 Qt (valvoline)

Should I still use a zinc additive?

not needed if it was the VR-1.

to the 15K mile mark for oil changes (3 oil changes to 45K miles)as recommended by BMW using the BMW oil. What exactly is BMW oil? I've never had to add oil between changes. After it went off warranty at 50K miles I did the next change myself. The oil looked about the same as any I've ever changed. I also don't think you can tell a thing from the looks of the oil. I've not experienced any problems. I'm going to switch to changing now around 8K to 9K intervals just because it works out to be about 2 changes/year on this 90% highway miles, mid GA, vehicle. There are many factors to consider in choosing a change interval. Superstitious owner preference, ranks as high as any other factor. The owner must be comfortable with the choice of interval. Other considerations might be engine type, age,
fuel delivery system (carb or EFI) miles, type of use: highway, city, off-road, racing, seasonal environmental conditions, temperature, humiditty, etc..

I dunno, Mech. I have an '02 530i with 89K. Bought it right at a year ago with 80K. Kinda too much sludge under the fill cap/in rocker cover for my taste. I realize you can't tell anything about the wear factor from sludge, though. Assuming the PO went by the "recommended" change intervals, i'm not, errr, entirely warm 'n fuzzy about the Motor Werkes' plan.

For comparison, my '97 3.0 Sable wagon is absolutely spotless inside, using only el-cheapo dino oil for it's 172K (and counting) miles.

Personally, ill feel better with more conventional transfusion intervals...

MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof, '90 7-up 5.0 ragtop, '67 Coupe (mig welding practice), '66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk1A, '57 Fairlane 500 w/351W/Granada toploader OD (Dad's project)

reducing the interval but I spin the miles on rather quickly so I don't think I want to go back to 3K changes.

lights on the dash indicate oil life and when it's time to service, i'm not sure what the criteria is but it varies by how the car is driven. the warranty don't last forever, and most guys with BMW experience will recommend not owning one out of warranty...

Break My Wallet... Borrowed Money Wasted...

what's the difference between a porcupine and a BMW?

"Enlightened statesmen will not always be at the helm" ~ James Madison

the porcupitne has them on the outside?

got it.

"Enlightened statesmen will not always be at the helm" ~ James Madison

Hey now, I resemble that remark




MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof, '90 7-up 5.0 ragtop, '67 Coupe (mig welding practice), '66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk1A, '57 Fairlane 500 w/351W/Granada toploader OD (Dad's project)

that was funny

Cuz we all know this is the Cleveland Forum right? BTW, most oils now have very good antoxidants and can easily go 3,000 miles between changes and "full" synthetics can usually go double that with a new filter and 1 more quart @ 3,000 miles. Parafin is the culprit (viscosity improver) that causes sludge accumulation. More oil manufacturers are reducing the amout of parafin in current oils to "reduce sludge". Mobil 1 has lost a lot of the zinc it used to have and even though it's synthetic , can be tough on flat tappet cams. When in doubt use a zinc additive to boost the oil the government has forced oil companies to manufacture.
One more night at the Holiday Inn Epress for me!
Randy

don't have a 330i, but i have a Z3 roadster that would love to host a Cleveland someday! i think it's gonna need a chassis though, and i better start looking for a spare hood too.

on a Cleveland note, my heads are done! 4V factory iron, Crane triples, Ferrea 5000's, guides/seals can't wait to see the bill...

"Enlightened statesmen will not always be at the helm" ~ James Madison

Here is a link to a consumer reports test of oils and additives with different change intervals. Very interesting results commpaired to established norms.



http://www.moneybluebook.com/articles/consumerreports.oilchange.php

Per the manual, using an oil that is on VWs approved list.
This is a Turbo car however and the oil looks used up after 5000 miles.