Thats what I'm looking at right now. Going with the duraspark is cheap and seems to give good results. The HEI setup looks simple, and if it doesn't perform good, then I can go to the full duraspark or even get an msd box (right?). This page is what I'm looking at as a guide, but there's a bunch out there:http://www.epiccomputer.com/dale/jeepjunk/tfihei/shuffjb/prestolite.htm

The other option is getting an e-spark kit for the old mallory 27 series that came with the car. But I've read that is an optical unit, and sensitive to voltage, the duraspark seems more idiot proof. It will probably be just a little less than the duraspark set up.

Any recommendations?

(currently I have a procomp 7004 on it (the non hei type) and adjustment is limited by the vacuum hitting the radiator hose or if I move the wires one spot back, the control module on the side hits the intake. I may cut the module off and remote mount it and see what adjustment I get then)

and more reliable and cheaper to buy at the parts store is a Standard LX-101, it is the aftermarket version of a Chrysler ignition box.

Get a 9004 no vac advance, big cap, 2 wire hookup $180
Also a msd spitfire box $150
Has a rev limiter, muiti spark & good to 9,000 rpms
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A properly curved duraspark distributer and box of your choice of box will do everything 90% of Cleveland owners will ever need. I have a distributer from a 460 and a MSD 6A right now and soon will be running a Haltech E11V2. That is an entirely different motor though.

71 M code Mach 1, Tremec TKO, Wilwood SL6's, road racer.

I got bored and cut the module off the procomp, now I just have to remote mount it somewhere.
Looks like a duraspark unit will be in my future eventually, but for now I think I have the adjustment I need.
before:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3688303344/
during:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3688303358/
(too tight to use the sawsall, took me an hour with the hacksaw blade on the vicegrip)
after:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3688303424/
Plenty of adjustment room now. All thats left is to remote mount and extend the wires.
I think its going on the aircleaner using one of the snokel bolt holes, probably with a little smaller bolt with a wing nut so I can take it off easy:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3688303432/

you didn't wait very long to get nuts, i would've suggested that you slip the diz gear 1 tooth and you'd be centered in the sweet spot you're looking for. there's 15 teeth on the gear and 8 terminals on the cap, i diz tooth would probably have done it.

too bad they didn't cast the mounting plate lower on the shaft area of the housing.

"Enlightened statesmen will not always be at the helm" ~ James Madison

moving the distributor a tooth probably would have worked, but there was something else I noticed- the clamp for the cap was touching the radiator hose. This way I have it on the other side of the hose now, and still have plenty of adjustment.
I think they would have had to go higher with pad to clear the intake, or better yet, they should just sell it with enough wire and a package to remote mount the module. Its not that hard, probably a little cheaper to make the distributor, and in my experience with this, would work better. and would have made the difference between me saying they messed up, and instead saying its a nice little kit for those of us on a budget.

They make the DUI dizzy that Procomp is ripping-off. They also make a Duraspark set up with a standard Ford cap. Quality is darn good and they calibrate it for you engine before shipping...so you need to provide some info to them. I'm running one of their DUI HEI dizzy.

http://www.performancedistributors.com/fordduraspark.htm

I finished this up today. It wasn't too hard. The thing that took me the longest was to realize I needed a seperate ground wire other than the 4 going to the module.
The module is a BIM024 type (chinese clone most likely.) This is like the GM HEI module, but was used on Fords and Holdens in Australia, and a few people have used them to replace whatever they had so I was able to get a guide or 2 online. Pretty much the same to wire it up as the HEI module. 2 wires from the distributor and a wire each to the coil + & -,(plus I needed a ground wire because the air cleaner didnt provide a good ground). The guy who installed the distributor originally had both coil wires going to the coil negative, dunno why, but it ran ok like that. But now its running a lot better, and I haven't put the timing light on it yet. I'm glad I investigated.
Heres the pic of the finished install:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3711481412/
(next week maybe I'll paint the air cleaner)

Here are a couple other pics frmo the process:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3711492100/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3710682421/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3710682713/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16647418@N07/3710682909/in/photostream/