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Oil pan mods to the stock oil pan

September 15 2012 at 1:21 PM		c-jet  (Login c-jet)
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from IP address 99.90.198.125
There were some dicussions on here about oil baffles in the stock pan and the best oil pick-up locations? anyone?


    
This message has been edited by c-jet from IP address 99.90.198.125 on Sep 15, 2012 1:25 PM
This message has been edited by c-jet from IP address 99.90.198.125 on Sep 15, 2012 1:22 PM


 
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DAVID
(Login D.I.L.L.I.G.A.S.)
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207.200.116.14

my stock pan mods from years ago.....

September 27 2012, 9:50 PM 

It's not a Cleveland pan, but this front sump 289-302 pan I made years ago is very similar to how I also used to make my front sump Cleveland pans. I used a higher rear baffle and a lower front baffle, the front baffle is the bottom/front section of the original sump (I figure it's already there, why not use it).
 
Technically the sump also has in effect small side baffles too. This is because the sides of the original pan extend down past the tops of the new sump side kick-outs. I figured these might help stop oil from climbing out of the sump in a hard turn.
 
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tinman
(Login tinman351)
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76.16.137.46

Re: my stock pan mods from years ago.....

September 27 2012, 10:03 PM 

i like the side walls in place at the tops of the kick-outs, maybe little tabs cut & bent open to allow oil into the top of the kick-outs ?

there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing

 
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DAVID
(Login D.I.L.L.I.G.A.S.)
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207.200.116.14

venting the kick-outs.......

September 27 2012, 11:43 PM 

There is a small air bleed hole in each side (hidden from view in the pics) just under the rear baffle in each corner to vent the tops of the kick-outs.  
 
When I built my first pan I did expect that the extended sides design could possibly create a trapped air pocket in the tops of the kick-outs. But when I finished welding & filled the pan with water to check for leaks this turned out not to be true. The water filled both the open sump area & the kick-outs behind the sides equally....can't explain why but it did.
 
But even though the water filled all sections equally and appeared not to create any trapped air pockets, I was still worried it could still happen with oil since it's thicker than water. So I added the 2 air bleed holes under the rear baffle anyway just to be safe.  


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c-jet
(Login c-jet)
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99.90.198.125

drag application

September 27 2012, 11:25 PM 

This is for a drag car, I like the flat plate with the slant down. during the launch the oil gets trapped in the front, but the oil easily get back when the car settles down.I would imagine thin hot synthetic oil is more like water than anything and it won't stay in a cj pan long. I thought i recall there being a discussion about reloacating the pickup to the rear ps side of the pan, it would make sense that the car rocks that way, but I can't see being able to move it too far from it's current stock location? Also, I'm limited to the stock pan.

 
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(Premier Login blizzardND)
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70.197.197.165

use a 351M/400 4x4 pan

September 27 2012, 11:31 PM 



old wiki:

http://351cleveland.wetpaint.com/page/Oil+Pans

-blizz

351C.net, not just any old internet car forum,

 
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tinman
(Login tinman351)
Moderators
76.16.137.46

Re: use a 351M/400 4x4 pan

September 28 2012, 3:42 AM 

i think it needs to be a front sump, it just can't be a deep front sump

something like this Aus Falcon but the sway bar is more under the pan?

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there'll be phantoms, there'll be fires on the road... and the white man dancing

 
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DAVID
(Login D.I.L.L.I.G.A.S.)
Member
207.200.116.14

these were drag pans....

September 28 2012, 12:01 AM 

These were all drag pans. The only reason I gave any thought to trying to control oil movement in a hard turn on a drag pan is my local 1/8 mile drag strip has a steeply banked shut down curve/turn around at the end of the track. So sometimes if you didn't get on the brakes soon enough after a bottle pass you could end up taking the banked turn-off at a pretty good clip & create some side G's    


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