I've listed these together as one should really approach them both as one project.
They also can easily be done at the same time, using a newly installed fuse block.
These two mods are a 20 dollar solution to 90% of the low voltage woes one can encounter in an X1/9.
There also many different ways of doing each of these mods... I will describe what I feel is the easiest, best and least costly. Have fun experimenting on your own though.
1. One 4 or 5 position auxilliary fuse block, your choice of fuses... usually 5 bucks at Pep Boys or Kragen.
2. Two 30A relays from Radio Shack or two auxilliary (horn?) relays from Pep Boys or Kragen, all are 5 bucks apiece. I recommend the Radio Shack ones that are small and well sealed, but the others will work fine.
3. A roll of 12 or 14 guage wire, and a length of 10 guage wire, about 8 feet. Another 5 bucks.
4. A handful of spade connectors or equivilent to connect the wiring to the fuse blocks and relays... and some electrical tape, and wire ties.... and some fuses, 7 amp will do.
BROWN WIRE MOD
This mod aids in the amount of voltage applied to and the current handling capability of the wiring... PRIMARILY for the starting circuit.
It also assists in the charging circuit and dims or eliminates the red alternator light when lights, wipers and heater are turned on. Increases wiper speed and brightens dash lights... all this on top of easier starting and faster engagement of the starter solenoid.
1. Mount the 4 or 5 position fuse block near the wiring loom running forward to the lights and horn, in the front trunk... on the "firewall", inside the trunk. (I mounted mine inside the wiper well... and it got wet and nasty... but still worked!)
2. Using a good connector, and preferably soldering the wire to it... run a length of 10 guage wire from the POSITIVE pole of the battery to one side of ALL 4 or 5 fuse lugs. Holes can be drilled into the wiper tray or the wiring run in the trunk... (use grommets or sealant in the holes so the wiring doesn't abraid and short.)
3. Run another length of wire into the tray from the other side of the FIRST fuse, into the cockpit area. I punched a hole one inch to the left of the speedo cable running into the cockpit area and used sealant to isolate it.
4. Remove the bottom cover from the steering wheel "tree" which will expose the ignition switch and FOUR wires leading from it to an FOUR pin connector. On the other side of the connector will be FIVE wires leaving the four pins... but never mind!
5. Find the LARGE BROWN WIRE and at a convenient spot on EITHER side of the connector... strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation and tie the new 10 guage wire to it... wrapping it around securely (a T splice) and preferably soldering it. Cover with electrical tape, inspect the connector and clean, replace or *eliminate it, and button up the cover.
Here is a photo by Jim Decker on his attachment method.
Now test the system and see the results. Pull the fuse to see the difference in voltage and current drawn (red light)...
* (This connecter can be eliminated and all wires twisted and soldered to each other if necessary. A better solution would be to replace the connector.)
HEADLIGHT RELAY MOD
This mod provides a direct source of pure voltage from the battery to the headlights. As the current system was designed... the low and high beams only receive 10.5 to 11.4 volts after it has been routed through its many switches and componants.
NO AMOUNT OF HALOGEN UPGRADES WILL HELP until the PROPER voltage is applied.
Using the new Auxilliary Fuse Block with its NEW direct tie to the battery... we will INTERRUPT the original wiring and use the original voltage to the headlights simply to TRIGGER one of the two NEW relays... which will connect the new souce of power directly to the low and high beams. This will be done WHILE STANDING UP, in the front trunk next to the new fuse block and existing wiring harness.
1. Mount the 30A relays to the firewall next to the new fuse block. Be sure the relays are well GROUNDED by scraping away paint. They need the body as a ground source in order to operate... much like your horns.
2. Carefully unwrap the wiring harness to expose all the wiring. Look for 4 wires that are black with grey stripes, and black with green stripes. Separate them out of the loom so that they can be cut and lengthened... in order to operate the relays. DO NOT CUT THEM YET!
3. Cut EIGHT pieces of tape and use a marker to mark the wires, 2 each, LH, LL, RH, RL... for Left High, Left Low, etc.
4. Turn on the headlights and switch from high to low and insure all four lights are working... Left Low, Right Low, Left High, Right High. With the lights still on... CUT one wire. Note which light went out... if none initially, then switch the high beams on... Mark the cut ends of the wire with the appropiate tape label. Do this with all four wires and all 8 pieces of tape.
5. The relays should have their leads marked with L, S, and B. L is for LOAD, in this case the lights, B is for battery, or the new voltage source, and S is for switch, or the "trigger" source. If they are different, you will need to determine what each function is for the relay you have.
6. Run one wire from Fuse 2 to the B post of one relay... run another wire from Fuse 3 to the B post of the other relay. (Now each relay has a fused source of power directly from the battery... DO NOT install the fuse yet.)
7. Locate the two wires marked RL and LL coming from the cockpit... and twist them together. Add a length of wire from these two to the S post of one of the relays. LABEL this relay LOW. Locate the other two wires marked RH and LH from the cockpit, twist them together and add a length of wire and tie thes to the other relay's post marked S. Label this relay HIGH.
If you turn on the lights now... the LOW relay will click as you turn on the switch... and the HIGH relay will click when you activate the high beams. (no lights will light yet though.)
This is a good test to this point though...
8. Lastly, locate the two LL and RL wires going to the lights, twist these together and add a length of wire and tie it to the L terminal on the LOW relay. Do the same with the RH and LH lead and tie to the L of the HIGH relay.
9. Insert fuses and test.
10. Happiness abounds and LOADS of light. While yur at it... make sure all grounds are good coming off the lights in the pods...
11. You have one or two fuses left... I suggest you buy a 15 - 20 dollar air horn set from Harbor Freight or Pep Boys and use this as a source of power for them. Horns will mount inside the LEFT LIGHT POD and I guarantee... you will never go unnoticed again!
I also found most two horn, air horns harmonize BEAUTIFULLY with the two original horns!