October 2008 UPDATE... Some thoughts and observations...

I just replaced my stocker with a newly rebuilt GM alternator and followed Tom's guidelines...  This is what I found worked for me.

1.  The stock pivot mount... I had to cut back not 1 inch, but 1 and 3/8 inches to align the pulleys on the alternator to the stock water pump and crank pulley.  If 1/3/8" is too far, some washers can be used to make up the difference.

2.  I needed to replace the (whatever it was) stock belt with one that appears to be one size bigger.  Gates P/N 7335.

3.  I too used an off-the-shelf CHROME alternator adjustment arm I got for 15 bucks and cut off 4 inches from the "pivot end" that has two mounting holes.  I then ground the end smooth and rounded it... and drilled a 5/16 hole centered 5/8 of an inch from the newly cut end.  I used the upper left 13mm water pump mounting bolt as the new pivot point.

4.  At the slide end of the alternator... I use a 1/2 spacer to affix the alternator to the slide end without bending or tweaking this new arm.

5.  The wiring as described/photosgraphed by Tom works PERFECTLY...

6.  I used a GM alternator rated at 63 amps for a 350 Chevy Camaro, 1975... just like the one pictured.  AutoZone P/N DL7127M, also listed for a 1985 Chevy Truck, C/20 and Suburban.

7.  Cost was $45 for the alternator, $15 core charge, $15 for the slide adjuster, $15 for the new belt.  $90 bucks total... lifetime guarantee on the alternator.  If there is a NEXT TIME... it'll take 15 minutes through the rear access hole to swap out...

8.  Ima gonna see if Matt or IAP want the two cores I have and what it will cost to ship and what I'll get for them.  I hate to throw them into the system and don't know if AZ will take them as cores in the first place.  Kragen has alts for 35 bucks with a 3 year warranty, Pep Boys has similar pricing...

All and all... I think its an excellent upgrade and I read an EASY 14.1 volts at the battery...

My best,



Tony
Black Tooth and me... since 1983!


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