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World Premiere: Jean Dunand presents Shabaka

November 14 2006 at 9:24 AM

alex  (Login argg)
Industry Chat

Jean Dunand, the brain child of watch collector / entrepreneur Thierry Oulevay and watchmaker extraordinaire Christophe Claret present for 2007 a new spectacular wrist watch.

The philosophy behind the Jean Dunand brand (which by the way is not the name of a prestigious but long forgotten watch maker but a tribute to one of Messrs Oulevay and Claret’s favorite artistis movements: the Art Deco) is to produce out of ordinary time pieces with features which have never been seen in a wrist watch. After the sublime Tourbillon Orbitale and after 4 years of research and development the brand presents Shabaka.

Please note that the photos hereunder (other than the press release photos) are of a dummy piece.

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A minute-repeater on cathedral gongs and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a unique display of the dates, phases of the moon and leap-year cycle, as well as an ingenious power reserve indicator.

The originality of Shabaka is in the calendar indications on four cylinders instead of the conventional discs. These are rotated by four different 90-degree transmission systems, each fitted with a security device to ensure precise calendar changes. Furthermore, unlike in most calendar indications, the dates (two digits on separate cylinders), days and months jump instantaneously at midnight, when a sprung mechanism is released.


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Calibre CLA88



The indication of the leap-year cycle is also novel: a white plate under the dial illuminates in turn the letter B (for bissextile) and the three ordinary years cut out on the dial between 7 and 8 o’clock. The leapyear is mirrored by the moon phase indication for which black discs travel over the surface of the moon. The mechanical moon deviates from the real moon by only one day every 120 years.


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Rose gold



The power reserve indicator is also quite an original one: it is placed in the back of the watch and in fact is nothing less than the mainspring itself in an open barrel which shows the power reserve of the watch against a scale.


The minute-repeater strikes on two cathedral gongs that go twice around the movement to give a deeper and more resonant chime. Two chronograph-style buttons are used to set the entire calendar (the gold button at 4 o’clock) and the days only (at 2 o’clock). A pushpiece set coaxially in the crown advances the months and years, while the moon is set by a pushpiece in the caseband at 5 o’clock. To prevent any accidental use of the calendar pushers a little trigger is set in the case back enabling to lock the pushers.


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Minute repeater trigger

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Calendar functions pushers



Since the minute repeater slide takes up one whole side of the watch, complex series of levers reaches around the movement from the buttons to activate the respective calendar indications.

The caliber is of a particular construction, with the perpetual-calendar mechanism integrated in the 13-ligne repeating movement. The 7mm diameter cylinders are embedded 2.5 millimetres into the level of the minute-repeater to reduce further the thickness of the movement. An anthracite-black finish on the circular-grained baseplate and on the bridges decorated in concentric Geneva stripes, contrasts with burnished steel and rose gold components.


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Break up of calibre CLA88

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The calendar displays are integrated into the design of the dial: on four levels composed of a nickel-alloy frame delineating fields of blackened gold set with lapped pyramids of pink gold. The red ceramic hourmarkers at 10, 12 and 2 o’clock serve to indicate the day, date and month respectively, against corresponding red ceramic triangles in the centre of the dial.



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You may ask why the name Shabaka? The Art Deco-inspired design, with its Egyptian influences, is reflected in the name of the watch — Shabaka, the 25th-dynasty pharaoh and king of Egypt.



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White gold




To my knowledge this is the first time the Shabaka is presented in any media (print or net) and the photos are of a non working prototype so there may be some modifications in terms of design. The Shabaka should be produced in a maximum of 20 pieces a year in Christophe Claret’s work shops. It will be available in rose gold, white gold and platinum.



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Technical Details

Calibre CLA88

Manually wound minute-repeater with instantaneous perpetual calendar.

Indications
Minutes and hours hands.
Days, dates and months on cylinders.
Leap-year cycle.
Moon-phases.
State-of-wind, directly by the mainspring.
Repeating the hours, quarters and minutes on two gongs.


Controls
Buttons in the caseband to advance the entire calendar (4 o’clock)
and the days only (2 o’clock).
Pushpiece in the crown to set the months and years.
Pushpiece in the caseband (5 o’clock) to set the moon.
Repeating slide.


Balance
With adjusting screws on an overcoil spring.
Swan’s neck index.
21,600v/h.


Power reserve
45 hours.

Number of parts
721, including 54 jewels.


Movement dimensions
29.5mm (13 lignes).
Calendar plate, 36mm x 3.2mm (14 lignes).
Total height with dial and indications, 12.19mm.


Case
Gold with a nickel and gold multilevel dial.
Dimensions, 46mm x 17.65mm.
Water-resistance, 3 ATM (


    
This message has been edited by argg on Nov 22, 2006 5:17 AM


 
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AuthorReply
Johnny Mossville
(Login JohnnyMossville)

I'm speechless

November 14 2006, 11:40 AM 

I've been trying to gather my thoughts and comment on this design, but I just can't come up with the words to express what I see. Speechless. Perhaps,... nope, can't do it.

 
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chris russell
(Login patekkie)
AP Discussion Group

I like the ideas behind the mechanism, but the looks need work...

November 14 2006, 11:47 AM 

Make that, a LOT of work.

 
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TP
(Login TPapakostas)
AP Discussion Group

I agree... [nt]

November 14 2006, 12:03 PM 

...

 
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Ronald Held
(Login ronaldheld)

I must agree as well. (nt)

November 15 2006, 4:18 AM 

(NT)

 
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alex
(Login argg)
Industry Chat

the "real life" photos are of a dummy with a dial which will be quite

November 15 2006, 1:16 AM 

different (nt)


    
This message has been edited by argg on Nov 23, 2006 7:17 AM


 
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nickd
(Login NickDownes)
PP Discussion Group

Sorry...

November 14 2006, 12:55 PM 

...I can appreciate the technological achievements and all that, but I don't care how much they work on the design of this beastie, I can't see it working visually.

The calendar indicators remind me of those brass or bakelite 1930s desk calendars you advanced manually. Even if they totally decluttered the dial and removed the surplus geometric motifs, those calendar indicators have got to be one of the most difficult design elements to incorporate into a watch face design. 10/10 if they manage to do it, but they've got a struggle on their hands.

I normally don't get involved in these question-of-taste threads, but this beastie is so...special...I felt I had to say something.

nick

 
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Ravination
(Login Ravination)
Trading Zone

Thanks for the scoop Alex!

November 14 2006, 12:55 PM 

Agree with others on the design. The Tourbillon Orbital is a sublime watch with fantastic aeshetics IMO. The Shabaka will take some getting used to...


 
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Mel
(Login Melcoxx)
PP Discussion Group

Back to the drawing board. Day, date, month windows too big, showing.......

November 14 2006, 5:11 PM 

waaaay too much information. Leap Year indicator also too big. The prototype looks like a ____________(insert your choice: Chinese, Indian, NYC Street corner) $10 knock off.

 
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Lord Arran
(Login Lord_Arran)
AP Discussion Group

Great report in detail of an as yet unseen and unheard of watch. I shall be happy one day>

November 14 2006, 5:33 PM 

to see one "in the flesh".

Will it be exposed in Basel next year?

Thank you for your work and warm regards to you

Lord Arran

 
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alex
(Login argg)
Industry Chat

Dear Lor Arrran, Jean Dunand shall be presenting the production piece

November 15 2006, 1:18 AM 

at a private viewing in Geneva in April during the Swiss fair season

 
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Lord Arran
(Login Lord_Arran)
AP Discussion Group

thank you Sir. BTW I still have not received the CD with the photos you made when you>

November 15 2006, 2:34 AM 

were visiting me in St. Raphael.

Just in case I would be interested to get them with pleasure.

Warm regards

Lord Arran

 
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alex
(Login argg)
Industry Chat

Surprising! I will see if I can remake a CD ROM (nt)

November 15 2006, 3:13 AM 

e

 
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Lord Arran
(Login Lord_Arran)
AP Discussion Group

Thank you in advance, very kind, warm regards nt.

November 15 2006, 4:56 PM 

-

 
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Rishad Cooper
(Login rishad77)
PP Discussion Group

Poor looker

November 14 2006, 9:38 PM 

I find this watch poorly styled. I would never wear something that looked like this.

 
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Deniz
(Login phase-de-lune.net)

wouaooo

November 15 2006, 3:16 AM 

exciting !
Waiting for a running prototype and a better finition of course, but the project is really really exciting !

I wish a lot of success to Mr Claret.

Deniz.

 
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Doc
(Login powin)
PP Discussion Group

A disappointment to me. (nt)

November 15 2006, 5:13 AM 

vc

 
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Tony
(Login Hawainpanda)
PP Discussion Group

wow, movement is very very impressive

November 17 2006, 6:58 PM 

but the rest is...bad

 
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mostel
(Login dartanian)
PP Discussion Group

What the F ?????

November 18 2006, 8:01 PM 

The weirdest watch i have ever seen! Has Bernard ordered it yet?? ))

 
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