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A tale of two Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars Part 2

April 4 2012 at 8:01 AM
ED-209  (Login EDW209)
AP Discussion Group

Response to A tale of two Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars

On the inside lower left corner is a 3 position switch. When activated on the left switch position the watch winds in a counter clockwise rotation. Center is stop and the right switch position is clockwise rotation. According to the instructions the winder performs 1200 rotations in a period of one and a half hours and does this on a 24 hour cycle. Works for me as I had it in the safe during extend travels where I had my watch on the winder for about a week. The winder is battery powered with alkaline batteries and fairly quiet. I also have a Audemars Piguet winder made by Swiss Kubik but I havent tried it yet.

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Back to the watch, once again the skeleton work on the dial size is just simply beautiful. In some ways it is slightly difficult to read but I dont mind it at all. Im used to the positions and can always tell the time along with the day, date, and month very quickly. You can see from the pictures that the subdial hands are in polished blue but does sometimes look blackish colored depending the viewing angle. The hour and minute hands are in blackened gold leaf shaped hands and provide a nice contrast to the subdial hand. It also addresses my issue of the shape when compared to my gold version.

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Flipping the watch over I can see the beautiful movement from the transparent sapphire caseback. All the bridges and rotor are skeletonized and engraved.
You can see the transparency of the skeletonized movement at diferent angles like this picture here:

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The pictures speak for themselves:

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During my visit to Audemars Piguet Headquarters in LeBrassus back in 2008, I had discovered that AP offers a customized automatic rotor (oscillating weight) that can be decorated to my specifications including initials. Im considering this option sometime in future and will probably get my initials done on the rotor when its in for the next scheduled service. Has anyone else swapped out their rotors to a custom one? I recall that the AP watchmakers mentioned that it only take a few weeks to do the swap but a few months to order the actual rotor.

The skeletonized automatic movement AP caliber 2120/2802 is based on legendary caliber 2120. It was first presented in 1967 and was the worlds thinnest mechanical self winding movement with central rotor. At a mere 2.45mm thick, caliber 2120 has been used in the original Royal Oak in 1972 with the date display, and in 1978 with the worlds thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar with central rotor, and in even more complex watches like the Jules Audemars equation of time with the sunrise and sunset indicators.

The bracelet is the standard bi-fold deployant in stainless steel. It has the signature alternating brushed and polished finish of the Royal Oak. The clasp is release by sliding the rectangular button. As many other AP Royal Oak owners have done, Ive swapped the bracelet over to the opposite side because it places the deployant in a more comfortable position on my small wrist. I personally prefer a double deployant with a side pushing button (like on my previous Royal Oak Dual Time 26120) but in my opinion the bracelet I have pretty comfortable. I wonder if the new 15202 with the double folding clasp would work with my 25829?

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Ive worn this AP Royal Oak perpetual calendar skeleton as my daily watch for slightly under a year and has been my companion on some fun trips. We had a celebration dinner at the Michael Mina restaurant inside the MGM Grand Las Vegas:

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And of course back again in Vegas to celebrate New Years Eve at my favorite Vegas hotel Aria Resort and Casino:

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Finally, a little more information specifically on the perpetual calendar: In 1978 at Baselworld, AP unveiled the worlds first self-winding wristwatch with perpetual calendar, in the thinnest watchcase ever to contain this complication. The movement was conceived and developed by Michel Rochat and Jean Daniel Golay, respectively horologist and engineer at Audemars Piguet. At 4.05mm it still remains the thinnest movement of its type. The first skeleton Royal Oak with perpetual calendar and self-winding mechanism debuted in 1987.
Here are some additional specifications on the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Skeleton:
Variable inertial balance, flat balance spring, 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz), 38 jewels, 355 parts
Movement: 28mm diameter, 4.00 mm thickness
Case: 38.8mm width, length 48.8mm, thickness 9.3 mm
Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar indicating day, date, month, phases of the moon and year of the leap-year cycle
Moonphase made with physical vapor deposited metal onto sapphire
Steel case, sapphire dial and transparent caseback
Blackened gold leaf shaped hands for hours and minutes, blue hands for indicators
Collection reference 25829ST.00.0944ST.01
Water resistance to 20m
Available in platinum, 18 carat yellow gold, and 18 carat pink gold

I hope you enjoyed my little review of my favorite AP. Its perfect and I love every little detail of the watch and kudos to the watchmakers at Audemars Piguet for crafting such a beautiful timepiece!


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