I had been an admirer of the Royal Oak for some years but it never really rank high on my want list until recently. Some months ago I posted on Watchrap about suggestions for an everyday watch. A very kind Gentleman, Mr Valentin Blank wrote to me direct and suggested with great persuasion the RO Jumbo. I did follow up on his suggestion and went about looking for one at the authorised retailers here. The stores here had only the the darker coloured dials while I preferred the white. I did more research and discovered a lot more about it. While I was beginning to seriously consider the Jumbo, there were many other daily beater watches that started to call out to me as well. The Vacheron Overseas Automatic and the IWC Ingenuier are just but two very nice watches of many shortlisted and researched.
Until one day someone mentioned to me of the newly launched RO 15300 and the Calibre 3120 movement. When I found scans of the watch, I was very pleased to find out how close it is to the RO in terms of its look. But when I found out that the Cal 3120 and bracelet is completely brand new I was thrilled. So I went about looking around for one here in Singapore. I was hopeful but doubted its availability. When my regular luxury watch retailer informed me that one of the other branches had a piece, I jumped at it. They had only one piece - a white dial (which is my preferred dial in any case in this model).
On the morning of 9th August - Singapore's 40th Year of Independence - I went to HourGlass to inspect the watch. In the short years of having collected watches, I have learnt not to raise one's expectations too high as the probability of disappointment can be high. Even though I was very excited about the watch, I resolved not to make an impulse buy but to walk away to consider closely all things before completing the deal.
So what happened? Well, when the wonderfully gracious the Asst Manager took out the watch and showed it to me - it seemed that time and sounds came to a standstill for a moment. Somebody was talking but my ears wasn’t listening. My attention was completely focussed on something that just stunned me. The RO15300. Why is it stunning? A very rare characteristic. Sublime simplicity.
After the heady early rush of excitement, I made a closer inspection of the RO. It was obvious that the bracelet is somewhat thicker than the RO Jumbo. It looked a lot larger than its declared 39mm. In fact it looked like a 42 mm when compared to my Explorer II. But the illusion is due to the design of the case and the somewhat non existent lugs.
The watch studied in detail is even greater than the wonderful whole. From 2 feet away, it looks like a nicely made watch. From a close loupe look, it is unmistakebly a wonderfully made watch.
I was smitten by the balance of the dial work. The white tapestry is luminescient and the new baton markers and three hands are perfect in unison. I thought the original Jumbo was outstanding but this new dial work - simply sublime (yes, that word again).
When I turned the watch around to inspect the movement through its exhibition back I discovered a movement smaller than the Jumbo but no less impressive. This is where words will not do justice. It just has to be seen. The size of the Cal 3120 is small compared to the overall size of the watch but its not so noticeable that it distracts. The rotor is wonderfully designed and carved (or pressed?). The bridges were all bevelled nicely, clean and polished. As with all autos, much of the movement is covered by the rotor. The balance wheel is quite special as it seems to be altogether a new design. It has a bridge over it to secure it for higher accuracy and stability (as I understand it).
The Asst Manager then offered to have the bracelet adjusted to see how it fits on my wrist. I agreed to this with some reluctantance (because I really did not want to commit to a sale right away as a norm - no matter how much I liked it). So I walked around the shop for 5 minutes looking at every single mirror in the shop admiring it on my wrist. I realised its not as heavy as I had expected but its not so light to feel cheap. Slowly but surely I had the sinking feeling that I will not be able to walk away without it.
I put the watch down on the watch tray after taking all the effort that my self control could muster. The Asst Manager and I then spent a few minutes talking about AP, the new RO model and she showed me the engraved serial number on the back. It’s a single digit number (000x). Its always special to have a single digit number serial number. For me, its like being the first.
After another ten minutes of chatting, I realised my resolve not to buy that day - went out the window 5 minutes ago. So put the watch on and completed the purchase there and then.
I am glad to say that I have not taken this watch off since. Each day, the satisfaction seems to grow as I catch myself looking at the watch without looking at the time. This watch is the evolution of the Royal Oak and not a revolution. It’s a great success because it retains all the positive characteristics of the line but yet modernise all other aspects to continue making it the truly long life classic it will be.
My sincerest congratulations to Audemars Piquet and all the boffins there for a wonderful watch. In my books this watch is a double home run. It will most definitely help in AP's claim in being amongst the best watch brands in the world.
I was unable to resist spending hours photographing the RO trying to capture the essence of its beauty. Click on the MONTAGE link below to see it. Please do take note that the automatic montage will go through many scans. They fall into the following views:
1. The arrival home, the packaging, boxes and papers 2. Royal Oak as a whole 3. Close ups Case, Bracelet and Crown 4. Close up of the Dial 5. Close up of the Movement 6. On wrist 7. Watch posed in different angles, lighting on different boxes
to the 15300 Cal3120 - especially to the untrained eye. All the more special to me as it is clear that AP has succeeded in developing an already successful model line.
Loved you montage
I handled the watch I think about a couple of week ago but sad to say, it could not sit properly on my puny wrist
Yes, its a very sublime piece and will wear with anything you put on
I started with, as most do, a Rolex and then went on to Panerai. Further, I got into AP but they are very expensive! Now, I am looking at VC. God help me! Now be prepared for a second AP...possibly a ROO? Congrats again!
Actually I considered the ROO - but only for a moment....
August 14 2005, 7:13 AM
While I liked the overall feel of the ROO - its distinctiveness and build quality - the dial layout did not sit well with me. I felt that for such a large watch, the chewed off numbers by the subdials on most of the ROO line was messing up the dial for me. I think there is only one or two ROO models without numbers as minute markers.
This was why the RO is such a beauty for me. Also, I simply love exhibition back watches that showed off special movements and the CAL 3120 is outstanding. Anyway, I am not thinking of any other acquisition at this time as I am enjoying this piece so much.
Congratulations on a stunning piece! The Ref:15300 has caught my interest for the very same reasons that you outlined above. I'm current in the market for an elegant dress watch on bracelet to compliment my sporty OS CC and the Ref:15300 the Ref:15202, and the Ref:25820 are high on my list.
One question if I may: How does the Ref:15300 "wear" compared to the Ref:15202 in terms of the angle of the integrated lugs? I've tried the Ref:15202 on my 6.15" wrist, and there are unsightly gaps between the lugs and wrist. I'm hoping this will not be the case with the Ref:15300.
The RO15202 (Jumbo) is the same case size as the 15300. However the case and bracelet is marginally but noticibly thicker (esp the bracelet). If you have a problem with the 15202, it will exist as well on the 15300. Both watches are not made for narrow wrist as the length from lug to lug looks longer than on most watches.
The good news is that the 36mm RO can work very well for your wrist size. It looks way bigger than its 36mm (more like a 39mm and the 15300's 39mm looks like a 43mm). Do have a look at that model - you will not be disappointed!
And of course Mr V Blank was pivotal in nudging me in that direction. Thanks Valentin!
It was a common process of looking for the proverbial holy grail called "the daily wearer". It has been a wonderful journey. I honestly believe I have found it - just as Valentin had assured. )
Congrats Harry! I was in Las Vegas last weekend and an authorized AD there had both a Jumbo and 15300 in stock, both with white dial. It was an excellent opportunity for me to try both on, back-to-back, something I have been dying to do. I'm still on the fence as to which I prefer but it's great to hear from someone who is so pleased with their decision.
Quick question: How legible is the watch in the dark or in low light conditions?
about being unable to decide which you would prefer. One has such a long and successful history while the other is the new kid on the block. They are so similar in many ways and yet dissimilar in many others. Personally I would distinguish the two by stating that the similarity is in design, looks and materials used but philosophy of the two watches are very different.
SIMILARITIES: case size (39mm), bezel, tapestry dial, location of date window, steel used, baton markers, bracelet design,
DIFFERENCES: design detail on baton markers, second hand on 15300, case thickness (ultra thin on Jumbo - for a sports watch), bracelet thickness, deployant design, very small second number indictors on Jumbo (10,20,30 etc), border around the date window on Jumbo (none on 15300). Movement! Rotor design, size of exhibition window on the back; power res of 60hrs on Cal3120
So if you had to choose between the two, the choice is really dependent on whether you are looking for a more dressier (jumbo) or more sporty (15300) as the 15300 is a much more tougher movement with longer power reserve.
The clincher for me is the Cal3120 movement. Its completely AP and shows the prowess of the AP horologers. It has the history and heritage of the brand but uses the latest ideas and technology. To me, it just rocks and reeks of class and quality. But thats just me.
Do remember that the 15300 is not the Jumbo replacement. It replaces the 36mm Royal Oak. So this is going to be a common dilemma round the world for a long time!
As for the night luminosity, I hardly use it in the dark but I will try to take a photograph of the dial with the markers charged by a table lamp to show the level of the intensity the luminosity is and repost here. Email me if I forget!
Thanks Harry for your comparison of the two watches. I really appreciate your input, particularly since you have been struggling with the same decision I have. After spending way too much time debating the pros and cons of each, I finally made a decision today and purchased the Jumbo. I'm currently traveling and an authorized AP dealer in the area I'm visiting just so happened to have a white dial Jumbo in stock. The timing was right, the deal was right, and everything fell into place so I feel it was meant to be.
Enjoy your watch for years to come. I certainly plan to do likewise!
Congrats Nick! Its always great to savour a long time...
August 20 2005, 5:23 PM
and know that you are making a considered choice after looking at all the choices carefully. Both of these watches will give lots of pleasure and satisfaction. Once again, congrats on your new Jumbo - its a wonderful watch!
