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Part 10...In the beginning, there were REALLY GOOD simple watches.

October 12 2006 at 2:42 AM

bernardcheong  (Login bernardcheong)
AP Discussion Group

 
The LUC Fleurier is the FIRST ever timepiece, to be given the Qualite Fleurier Certificate.

The conical indices are turkish in design, with the exception of the 4 main quadrant markers at 12,3,6,and 9.




Note the lugs..soldered!!!(Expensive)







Note production watch has a different seconds hand..from the Basel one.


Having a SOLID case back is actually important to me, personally. In fact, I do insist on solid backs for my Pateks and a few of my Langes.

The reason for me, is that I already have more than enough examples of the see thru variety, and the solid back has a charm all its own. Its like a cigar humidor...closed.

The 9.96 is of course a more basic version of a 1.96

The Qualite Fleurier demands...

A) The MOVEMENT:

1 that the movt is already COSC.
2 Ageing cycle...a series of tests too long to go into.
3 Tests on the crowns and any push/pull buttons
4 Magnetic fields
5 Shock with a striker
6 Water resistance

The FINISHING:

1 Traditional metals or ceramics, or advant-garde material only. NO plastics.
2 Decorative motif on the maximum thickness of the plate. Or the visible part of a bridge.
3 No rough edges/angles.
4 Polished sinks.
5 No burrs.
6 All functional steel parts to be polished.
7 Screw heads flat, polished, beveled to the slot and rim.
8 Shaped parts polished, beveled, and lines drawned with files.
9 No bulk manufacture allowed.
10 Galvanic treatment is not needed, but if used, must enhance the movement.
11 Nickel plate in isolation is NOT allowed. Exception is on a steel part that needs protection against oxidation.






The complete watch is tested, unlike in the COSC. The specialised machine, seen above, performs this task.

Replicating human activity, the maximum gain is 5 secs a day...gain only is permitted.

Two such machines now exist in Fleurier and a 3rd is on the way.

A maximum of 1,200 watches only, can be tested per year!

These watches that pass...will only gain at worse case, 2.5 mins a month!!!

The test has gained the approval and blessing of the federation Horologie!

It may look like Vaucher, and the movement within the RM005 for example, may be the next watches after the 9.96 to take these tests.

So...it is a NEW standard, and a VERY high one, of precision and reliability.

My choice, an LUC, the FIRST watch ever, even among the LUCs, to take the tests.

Now...I really want a watch that is a representation of the really old traditional values of precision, and reliability..and the knowledge of a beautiful movt inside is good enough..I want the solid back...just for THIS watch...it is soooo right!!!!

Being an owner of, and a fan of, Patek...I must say that THIS single demonstration by LUC Chopard, this particular watch...is so perfect..as a coorporate produced item, like Patek (we don't compare the Dufours and Vianneys which are NOT coorporations, but small, individual works)...really upsets the balance of who is really king.

Conceal the brand on a calatrava, and on this 9.96, bring it to a man, a gentleman of taste...and see which is the one he chooses. I have my Calatravas here...right now...and the LUC is killing it.

Hope you enjoyed this rant!!!




    
This message has been edited by bernardcheong on Oct 12, 2006 5:32 AM


 
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