This forum deals with ponds which have been built mainly for koi similar to those featured on the KOI Cymru website. Even if you have not built your pond yet then your views are welcome. This is a chance to discuss your ideas and views with other koi-keepers. Please mention the country,and state or county,as in different parts of the World we have different methods and climate. If you are responding to a message already posted then please use the response button on the bottom of the message, and it will then appear as a subsiduary of that message and so easier for others to find.
A good site for health is KOIVET by Dr Erich L Johnson and it can be found at www.koivet.com
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blue koi or a shubunkin?
by Christie Gross
I just purchased my first pond fih both were sold as koi, one surelly was barbed mouth white, black and orange. He began surface breathing and has sadly died already. The other was slightly smaller in length, much thinner and mostly blue with metallic belly and a few scattered on his back and black swirl pattern on his top. I cannot find any koi pics that even closely resemble him. Then I saw a pic of a shubunkin. He resembles this but only the literature beneath the pic said they often come in blue. I have until 7pm Monday to return him. I purchased him from a fish only store in SW Ohio. Any opinions or advice or pictures of either blue koi or shubunkins would be appreciated!!
Posted on Jul 10, 2006, 6:36 AM from IP address 207.69.137.23
I have just moved into a new house, and have a million and one jobs to do. I was planning to build a koi pond, but it is looking like I will have little time to do so. Does any one know of a company in Wolverhampton area that will do the building work? I wish to go for a raised block pond.
Thanks.
John.
Posted on Jul 11, 2006, 1:30 PM from IP address 217.206.115.134
Whilst installing a skimmer.the water from skimmer was pumped into the main pump/filters line.connected to main pump line with a T piece ( advice given by local koi shop ) my problem is,when the skimmer turns off,I get a back flow from the main pipeline.So i need either to fit in a non return valv,or if it worked replace the T piece with a Y piece.would water flow back if Y was fitted,one learns by mistakes.thanks in advance
Posted on Jul 9, 2006, 3:01 PM from IP address 62.253.128.14
I would'nt have thought that a Y branch would make any differance so I would go for the non return valve or a slide valve if you have access to opperate it.
Cheers.
Garry.
Posted on Jul 10, 2006, 4:45 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
I too doubt a Y would work if connecting to a pressurised line down stream of the main pump, a non return valve or a manual valve are I think your main options.
The only other thing I can think of is possibly a bit pointless but that would be to have the skimmer pump pump its water up over a vented high point and let gravity feed water from the high point into the main line.
To get that to work you would need to know the pressure/head inside the main pipe at the current T point with both pumps running and then make sure the high point was higher than that head. The problems are,
1) you would have to watch for changes in the pipe through which the skimmer pump pumps affecting the flow rate through the skimmer and
2) the effect of cloggs in the main pipe etc causing the vent to over or backflow.
Posted on Jul 10, 2006, 6:13 PM from IP address 84.64.186.70
Have recently been using Interpet blanket wedd control to deal with the dreaded stuff. This tends to turn the water milky for about 5 days. Plenty of green weed turned to whitish brown, which could be swept off the pond walls and mostly collected by the fliter media.
Unfortunately, the pond was turning green again almost immediately. I have finished the course of treatment (every 10 days for a month), but still it comes back. In adition, the water seems to have turned permanently pea green and even though I have lights at the bottom of the pond (5 ft deep). it is difficult to see the bottom.
Considering that it may be micro algae in the water, I today bought some Tetra Algorem which is supposed to clump the algae together (flocculant) and force it to either sink or float, allowing easy removal (by net or pondovac).
This does not seem to have worked very well. The water is still as green as before, however the visibility is far far worse. The water clarity is now similar to wallpaper paste and silt / sediment is circulating (it is as though the silt at the bottom of the pond has been stirred into action).After 8 hours, the clarity has not improved and visibility is reduced from 4 feet down to about 12 inches. (compared to winter when the water was crystal clear and "black")
The pond itself has good circulation, both due to return water from the filters and air stone action. Plenty of airstones and the UV light is new. Perhaps circulation is too much to allow the silt to fall out of suspension.
I have built a blackout cover for the pond to give the UV light some assistance on very sunny days.
I will give the pond a few days to see if it will clear itself before considering changing some of the water.
Any thoughts??
Posted on Jun 26, 2006, 10:41 PM from IP address 88.110.41.22
Good day
First give your pond a 50 % water change , then
try using a product called pond clear instead .(first time it will cloud your pond for a couple of days ,there after use when needed.)
Also flush and rinse your filters one by one ,give it a few days between each one so that you do not loose all your bacteria(good idea to add extra bacteria using bio start powder).
Finally there is a fine clay powder product not sure of the name ,use this to polish your water and it puts back important minerals into your pond .(this also clouds for a few days ,when using watch your pond or place a net over it as the first time the koi are not use to it and tend to jump alot.)
Also check that u are not over feeding excese food also tends to cloud water.
use it loose
good luck
shaneA
South Africa
Posted on Jun 27, 2006, 7:35 AM from IP address 198.54.202.226
I would not even think about doing a 50% water change frankly. You fish won't mind green water whereas a 50% water change could well cause them harm and your filters. Mature water is valuable. Remember that! If you have hard tap water with lots of phosphates in it, you could make the problem even worse.
Give the pond a chance to settle down for a couple of weeks before you do anything drastic. You have killed off LOTS of blanket weed and the filters have reacted by converting all the extra ammonia into Nitrate which exasperated the green algae. Try and kill that and the same problem will occur.
Do things in this order and you should resolve the situation:-
1. Make sure your UV quartz tube is clean and the bulb rated at 10W per 1000 gallons.
2. Make sure you have a turnover of the entire pond volume every 2 hours or more.
3. Make sure your filters are properly removing fine sediment and debris in the mechanical stages.
4. Make sure you have plenty of O2 in the water column. Add air if necessary with a pump.
5. Stop using the products you are using and let things settle down.
6. Check your Nitrate & Phosphate levels and reduce feeding to reduce these levels if necessary.
In a couple of weeks, you can remove as much blanket weed as possible by hand and try something new. Blanc Kit seems to work quite well. Let the UV cure the algae problem. You shouldn't need chemicals to sort out green water of your UV is big eenough, your filters can trap the clumped cells and your turnover is sufficient.
Patients is the order of the day with green water.
Alan F
Posted on Jun 28, 2006, 1:40 PM from IP address 213.120.101.21
As you suggest Alan, I will let the pond sttle for a while and see what happens before considering next action. Any additional water will just be top ups rather than water changes.
The green water itself was not too much of a problem as I recognise it is just the summer sunlight overcoming the UV light. It is the cloudyness that bugs me. Th blanket weed controller was only really effective while the water was cloudy and as soon as that cleared, the weed was back.
The Flocculant was supposed to clump the single cell algae together and allow it to be easily removed. Instead, it has forced algae, and dust and whatever else to be in permanent suspension . IT is so bad that if a fish is 6 inches below the surface, you cannot see scales, below 1 foot and you can just see the main clours and below 2 foot you cannot even see movement
To prove this, I took a glass of water from the pond yeater day and stood it on a shelf indoors. 24 hours later there is plenty of debris in suspension.
I have made up some fine filter socks and am filtering all water returning to the pond. The amount of crap being caught is quite surprising. I have 4 airstones in the pond, water feature and in the filter box itself. Plus a smaller one in the protein skimmer.
The UV light is 11w and 6 weeks old. I have also fabricated a shade for the pond to reduce the amount of direct sunlight.
The fliters in the box seem quite "live". plenty of worms and snails in their. My regular cleaning is to rinse each filter within the box a couple of times and drain the box. An additional foam fliter is washed more often as this is just used as a sediment catcher.
The fish themselves do not seem bothered and are happily munching on the weed and growing fast. I have therefore reduced the amount of additional food.
I will certainly be keeping a close eye on how or if the pond improves over the coming days and weeks
Posted on Jun 28, 2006, 5:30 PM from IP address 88.110.41.22
What you will find Steve is that the algal bloom will only last a a couple of weeks then gradually fade and clarity will improve. I have been where you are now and it doesn't look nice but, as long as the water quality is good your fish will love it. Green water does wonderful things to enhance colour in particular.
You'll get there I am sure.
All the Best.
Alan.
Posted on Jun 29, 2006, 1:51 PM from IP address 213.120.101.21
After running all the return water through some filter socks (actually a couple of large tee shirts-sewn up apart from one sleeve) for 24 hours the water is now clear again. The amount of suspension-sediment removed is astonishing (and it really is like wallpaper paste!!)
In addition, the pond has been completely in the dark all day allowing the UV light to work its best.
The water is still a little green, but that is not a major concern. I can easily see the bottom of the pond in full focus. I will try to maintain a little more shade over the pond during these long summer days to help the UV.
And to cap a good day, my wife delivered our first this afternoon.
So 2 good reasons to sit out by the pond this evening with a couple of cold beers.
Cheers !!
Posted on Jun 29, 2006, 10:25 PM from IP address 88.110.41.22
Hi, I have the same problem as you had. You mention filter socks, could you explain what these are, as I'd like to try the same thing. Was it just a 'sock' made out of old t-shirt, or did you stuff it with filter wool or something.
Many thanks in advance for your help
Best regards
Phil Rowe
Posted on Jul 7, 2006, 3:39 PM from IP address 81.137.224.192
Hello,
I am sure I could have found some fine mesh filter material somewhere, but I borrowed the wifes sewing machine and attacked a couple of old, clean tee-shirts. I sewed up the bottom, neck and one sleeve.
My return from my pump / filter is just above the water level so I arranged the open sleeve under the outlet. The shirt gradually filled up and as it became blocked with algae and crap, water would overflow from the tee shirt (so make sure any overflow goes into your pond, not over the side). Also, ensure that water can over flow the tee shirt, otherwise you can overflow your fiter units and quickly drain the entire pond.
With my 2800 litre pond, I needed to change the fliters over ever 1 hour at first, then a coupl of 2 hour sessions then finally an overnight session.
It is not easy getting the shirts back out of the pond as the will be FULLY inflated with water. However, the vast majority of algae will be trapped in the fabris so you can slowly empty the water out via the sleeve.
A soiled shirt can be turned inside out and scrubbed in the sink, but remember to always filter in the same direction. through the fabric. I have a few spare shirts, so I did not bother to launder and keep the shirts for next time.
Not a pretty solution, but it is very cheep and can be doe over a few nights so that the usual appearance of the pond is not affected.
MY pond still has some floating algae (the fish keep stiring up the sediment in the bottom),and the water is still a little green, but clarity is beyond 5 feet (I can see the filth on the bottom).
A very cheep solution, but good enough for me. It certainly stopped me from draining the pond, re-filling and starting the filtration system from scratch.
Posted on Jul 9, 2006, 12:14 AM from IP address 88.111.131.80
I'm new to koi keeping. Although my pond has been up and running for about 3 years,it has been a disastrous story of green water etc. from day 1 (I mis-sized my pump and pressure filter). The pond is made of liner (no bottom drain) and is completely above ground (4ft, made from railway sleepers). The pond suffers direct sunlight and, due to the design of my garden I'm reluctant to put a canopy on it. Anyway, after changing my pump I'm pleased to say that my green water problems seem to have (recently) gone away. My problem now is this...
I have small, floating particles throughout the water that the pump/filter does not seem to be dealing with - without replacing my equipment, what is the best way of dealing with this. In the past I have used Interpet Clear Pond, is there another product that does the same job as this?
In the long run what is the best solution for this problem?
ALSO:
I have seen 'Tonic Salt' in many of the garden / pet centres - which seems to indicate that regular use is beneficial. Is this right? If so, what should I ask for at my nearest Koi dealer?
Many thanks in advance for your help
Best regards
Phil
Posted on Jul 4, 2006, 12:12 PM from IP address 81.137.224.192
problem is suspended alge. uv light will clear this up.had same problem. water was so bad could not see fish. put in 80 watt uv and within 2 weeks water is clear as can be.alge will drop to bottom after it passes thru light. i promise it will get better.
Posted on Jul 8, 2006, 11:31 AM from IP address 4.249.42.113
i have just bought a filter box from ebay as the one i built(water storage tank) when i did my pond last year just doesnt seem to be up to the job certainley doesnt meet the surface area rule to be honest any how what i want to know is , is there any reason why i cant bring the dirty water in into the bottom of the box filled with flocor (cut up pipe) then through the course medium and fine sponge and let the clean water out of the top of the box, i realise the sponges might want to float so i planned to hold it down with a plastic tray with holes and fill this tray with watercress and mint(and a brick or 2) to try and help keep nitrates down , can anyone see any obvious problems i might have, the box is 4 foot by 2 by 2 it will have a botttom drain so i can flush it out regularly , is it ok to run the dirty water straight onto the flocor ?
Posted on Jul 4, 2006, 11:44 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
There are a couple of 'names', I've noticed, that haven't been active here for a while ... they could be on holiday? Keep checking back from time to time.
As a by the way, I have a DIY filter box running at the moment (I do this every year in the summer) that uses the thick white fibre pads. I have the water running into the bottom, which rises up through the pad, which sits on a plastic grid, and then out at the top. The pad is held down by another plastic grid, weighted by 2 bricks. This is only to help the permanent filters tackle 'green' water.
I'm not sure what extras you'd need to be able to use this as a permanent filter.
Sue
Posted on Jul 7, 2006, 6:06 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
Does anyone have any idea why my pond has turned milky very rapidly within 48 hours? Prior to this it was just slightly green ... I could still see the bottom ... and I've done absolutely nothing to it ... no treatments ... nothing unusual.
The pond has been stable for 3 years but now looks as if someone has poured gallons of milk into it, turning it into a milky pea soup! 48 hours ago I could see 4 feet down and now I can't see 4 inches down. Any ideas?
I'd like to say the fish are fine but I can't see them!
Sue
Posted on Jun 30, 2006, 3:44 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
Just an update which may, hopefully help with a diagnosis?!
First thing this morning the pond was looking alot better. Great I thought! Wrong! It is now literally turning white again as I'm watching it.
The algae on the walls is turning white ... is the algae dying? Is this what the problem could be? But how come? Same pond, same water, same sun (all day long) ... I'm baffled. I also got my first nitrite reading for 3 years, this morning - only .10 - but still a reading, nonetheless. Ammonia 0. pH 8.5.
I'm thinking that the 'dying' algae is causing the nitrite reading BUT why is the algae suddenly dying or, if it's not dying, turning white like this?
I'm not a happy bunny!
Posted on Jul 1, 2006, 1:15 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
Nitrite now 0. But pond still looks like 10,000 gallons of milk. Further net surfing has raised the possibility of a 'bacterial bloom'? But why? And when will it improve? This is crazy.
Sue
Posted on Jul 2, 2006, 10:42 AM from IP address 195.93.21.70
Hi, having read your first message it sounds like it might have been the fish breeding. This turns the water a milky colour and can send the levels a bit off for a while. Not sure why it should have turned the algae on the walls white though. Unless it has settled out on the walls and killed the algae off, only a guess though. Hope that might have shed a bit of light on it for you. Adam
Posted on Jul 2, 2006, 7:58 PM from IP address 82.38.197.142
I don't think I'll be lucky enough to have that as the answer. The fish have bred in previous years and the water has stayed clear. The pond is 10,000 gallons and I think I'm into the 5th day of it looking like 10,000 gallons of milk.
I can't see the fish and I'm hoping they're ok as none are 'floating' yet!
Sue
Posted on Jul 4, 2006, 11:02 AM from IP address 195.93.21.70
That's the weird thing ... I'd done absolutely nothing whatsoever to the pond. It must have been some kind of strange biological imbalance ... ??
Anyway, after a week+ of a green-tinged milkshake of a pond, with no improvement whatsoever, I gave up and all but emptied it. Drastic and downright risky, I know, but I figured I had nothing to lose as, interestingly, the pH reading had climbed off the scale (alkaline) and the fish were becoming agitated. I cleaned as much of the white gunk off the walls as I could (no mean feat with a 19' x 21'pond) and refilled it.
I've jam-packed the pond and filters with Bio-Start, treated the tap-water accordingly and stopped feeding for a while. So far, so good. Perfect readings, clearish water and apparently happy fish!
Many thanks for your interest ... I've no brain cells left with this one!
Sue
Posted on Jul 7, 2006, 12:08 AM from IP address 195.93.21.70
I have a 1" white plastic (name on fitting Yuri)non return valve,but have mislaid the screw threaded connector fittings from valve to standard flexi hose.any ideas where I can purchase,nothing on web.
Posted on Jul 4, 2006, 5:25 AM from IP address 62.253.128.14
Get yourself a copy of the Boddington Koi catalogue or look at their web-site. Loads of different connectors are shown and I'm sure they have something suitable.
Posted on Jul 4, 2006, 9:41 AM from IP address 135.196.99.93
Having completed and transferred my fish to their new pond I have had two instances where fish have jumped out. The first after two days and the other just this morning some four weeks later. Unfortunately the one this morning did not survive. I have tested the water at regular intervals (Nitrite, Nitrate, PH, General Hardness) and at no time have the readings shown an unacceptable level. All fish appear happy and are showing no signs of stress and are eating well. The pond is well oxyegenated 24/7 with a 9" disc air stone. On both occassions the fish jumped during the night. Could the heat be have an adverse effect on them? Short of putting a net over the top (which would spoil the affect) I'm not sure what more I can do.
Posted on Jul 3, 2006, 11:58 AM from IP address 195.147.138.61
How big / deep is your pond,if you are able to lower your water level a few inches till they calm down,this advise was given me some years ago ,and it worked,but keep an eye on your readings/Good luck
Posted on Jul 4, 2006, 5:15 AM from IP address 62.253.128.14
Des, thanks for your advice. After further head scratching my wife took a sample of water to a local fish/pond suppliers who identified that the nitrite levels were on the higher side of acceptable so I have carried out a 20% water change and reduced feeding. Appreciate your reply and thanks for taking the time to help.
Posted on Jul 5, 2006, 2:32 PM from IP address 195.147.138.61
If you're looking for maximum aeration then, IMHO, an air stone would be far superior to any ornamental fountain head. You would have to have a very big fountain and pump to agitate and oxygenate the water in the way that an air stone does.
Apart from a large airstone, I have a fountain but I took the head/top off, which allows the water to agitate the surface far more efficiently.
Sue
Posted on Jul 1, 2006, 5:29 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
I have fitted a skimmer to my pond side wall. 3/4 of the skimmer mouth is in the water,the skimmer has an open front with a door flap.debris collected in a basket between the inlet an pump.the good water returned to pond by a fixed outlet pipe.My problem, the skimmer does not pull the surface very well.(my pond is 20FT x 8Ftx 4.5ft/)I have tried to reduce the flow of water.buy screwing a plastic plate in front of the skimmer opening,thus allowing only the top inch of surface to be sucked.did not work,I have been assured by supplier the pump is more than adequate for the job.Has anyone any advice please thanks Des
Posted on May 3, 2006, 7:59 AM from IP address 62.253.128.14
Hi Des, what I have done to improve my skimmer is to make the skimmer flap more bouyant, I fitted a automatic water filler float to the top of my flap, which makes the flap sit higher in the water, so it only skims the top level of the water. drill a hole in the top of the flap then push the stem of the float up from behind, and you can adjust it to suit. Cheers Keith H
Posted on May 3, 2006, 8:15 AM from IP address 62.252.32.14
Kieth .where can I get this automatic water fillr float,I have never heard of,and searched web cannot find,but it sounds like the answer to my problem,thanks Des
Posted on May 4, 2006, 5:42 PM from IP address 62.253.128.14
Kieth I fitted a new flap to skimmer,stll useless hit and miss.can you email me your set up with valve.would be very appreciated thanks Des,hope your enjoying the weather
Posted on Jul 1, 2006, 7:15 PM from IP address 62.253.128.14
Hi Phil, correct me if I am wrong, but it does not matter if you pump 200 gallons or 2000 gallons, through your skimmer, as long as you pull the top layer of water through it(to skim the surface water), so the weir plate position has to be set write to obtain this. Cheers Keith H
Posted on May 4, 2006, 10:29 AM from IP address 62.252.32.14
In my opinion its a combination of flow rate and depth over the weir, this isnt an "out of the hat opinion" I have some basis for it.
If the level in my pond has been lowered to below the 'skimmers' and the 'skimmers' emptied it is interesting to watch the skimming effect as the pond is refilled and reaches the level of the 'skimmers' and the 'skimmers' start to fill. The " 'skimmers' " I refer to are ( there are 2) the mouths of the inflowing and outflowing streams and not dead level, As such, during refilling of the pond the flow into the skimmers start as tiny trickles probably less than 1/16" deep amd measureable in cups per hour, however, their effects can be seen reaching out several feet into the pond.
There is another consideration, a shallow weir is likely to have turbulence behind it and also cause the water behind it to be lower than the water upstream of the weir, this turbulence and the drop in level over the weir can help break up the scum that would otherwise build up on the water surface near the skimmer. Again this is from observation.
My pond is walled and semi raised and the stream mouths are cement lined channels in the wall. As such the depth of water over the wier/floor-of-the-stream-mouth is controlled by how full the pond is. When the pond is at normal depth there is between 1/2" and 3/4" of water in the mouth of the out flowing stream, that skims the pond quiote well. I would prefer it closer to 1/4" of water for improved skimming but then there is no flexability in how full the pond is and I risk evapouration etc causing the pump to run dry. The stream is skimmed into a tank at the downstream end of the stream. The entrance into the tank is a 4" tank connector in the tank wall, this can be partially closed. If, following heavy rain etc, the pond is 'over full' and the 4" connector is wide open, there is no turblence in the tank and no drop in level from the stream to the inside of the tank. Then I have seen a layer of scum/surface-floating-dust build up inside the skimmer and grow out through the tank connector, up the stream and out into the pond. Anything in the surface of the pond being drawn towards the outflowing stream mouth gets caught in the scum jam and is trapped. It will even stop budlea? leaves.
If I then close down the entrance to the skimmer tank and cause the turbulence and drop into the tank, the foundation of the scum jam is broken and the jam breaks up and washed is into the skimmer tank.
Posted on May 5, 2006, 2:51 PM from IP address 84.65.31.239
I know there are two sides to this coin, but I would like to add salt to my pond as a long term solution.
From the reading I have done, 1 gram per litre is a very safe dose. Does this sound about right or should I go a little higher?
I have obtained 25Kg of Cooking Salt sold as PURE DRY VACUUM SALT, which the suppliers also supply to fish farms and fish shops. Is this OK for a Koi pond? I read somewhere that you sould be careful of any Anti Caking Agents used and not use Table Salt. Is this right?
Appreciate your input on this.
Regards
Robert
Posted on Jun 28, 2006, 5:41 PM from IP address 212.32.78.126
Thank you for your reply. I had seen the artical from the pond doctor, but with a lot of items on the internet, I was being cautious. With that in mind, I was looking for some practical experience/guidance from Koi keepers in the UK.
Regards
Robert
Posted on Jun 29, 2006, 8:39 AM from IP address 212.32.78.126
A long term solution to what exactly?
This is a bad idea and not recommended at all by any reputable Koi keeper I know. Not only does it prevent the use of certain treatments, its difficult and time consuming to add, difficult to maintain a stable level particularly after heavy rainfall and most importantly of all, the fish just don't need it except in rare circumstances when Nitrite levels are high.
Alan.
Posted on Jun 29, 2006, 2:04 PM from IP address 213.120.101.21
In what order should media be placed to get best performance.
by
Hi all, could some one be so kind and give me some advise as to the correct order that filter media should be placed to get the best performance out of my home made filter.
Filter is 2m L x 32" H x 24" W, with 6 chambers. the media i am planning on using is brushes, flowcor, alfagrog, japmatting and 50lt of k1.
Many thanks, Andy
Posted on Jun 28, 2006, 5:03 PM from IP address 62.255.32.14
Hi, it can be a case of trial and error but in theory, you want the first chamber to be either empty and use it just as settlement, or to have brushes in it, if it is used as settlement put the brushes after the settlement. Then after the brushes, id add some more mechanical filtration to remove the smaller particles. Id use jap matting set up horizontally with spacers. Now you can go into the biological filtration, id just go for K1 as it is ZERO maintenance, other media such as alfagrog and flocor tend to gather crap in them and can go anaerobic. But if you do use either of these then id try and use flocor, but add air to it to try to stop any muck settling in the tubes. For bio filtration id go for 2 or 3 chambers (depending on if you use a settlement chamber). And in the last chamber have either jap matting horizontally again, or have static K1 to give the water a final polish before it goes back to the pond. If you do go for settlement in the first chamber it always gives the option of moving the brushes back a chamber at a later date and adding more bio filtration. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 28, 2006, 7:15 PM from IP address 82.38.197.142
I may have missed it but I dont see any mention of moving K1 or static. For bio filteration you want moving K1 of course. Static is useless since it blocks very easily and goes anaerobic for the same reasons Adam stated with Flocor and Alfagrog.
You might like to consider a static kaldness bed for fine particle trapping in the chamber following the brushes though. You will need a method of boiling it (air) and flushing the muck to waste every couple of days though. Static K1 is superb at removing fine particles.
Alan
Posted on Jun 29, 2006, 1:59 PM from IP address 213.120.101.21
I basically dug a hole and there were so many big rocks, some are (2ft x 2.5 ft. My goal is to create a "rock pond". My plan is to concrete the hole but expose the big rocks that were already there. Would that work? How do I seal it without covering the rocks? I've done quite a lot of experiments and noramlly work. I am a bit worried this one might not. I'll appreciate your advice.
Maria Vilma
Posted on Jun 26, 2006, 12:52 PM from IP address 219.79.84.117
In one area of a stream I have no plastic or rubber liner, mortar and rock are the liner and the mortar was just laid against the rock as if the rock were brick. I didnt really expect the idea to work but it did and the mortar even sealed around the plastic supply pipe. If the rock is non pourous then bedding the rocks in thick concrete might do but you would need to research water proof mixes and check that the mortar in the concrete would bond well to the rock and that the rocks surfaces are stable and not 'rotten'. My rocks are, I think, quarried igneous rock so the surfaces are young, clean and stable. If your rocks are pourous then the only solution I can see is to paint the concrete and rocks with a clear pond paint such as G4 or P1.
Realistically though, I personally, would be wary of, on a large scale, bedding rocks in what will, I think, be the the water tight layer of the pond, especially if you propose to pore the concrete around in-situ rocks. If I were doing this I would think about removing all the rocks, then line the site and then place the rocks on the liner. If the liners is plastic or rubber then you could cast concrete pads on top of the liner and let those set then mortar the rocks on top of those pads. I would use damp tamped sand as the underlay for the liner where the rocks will be placed and dish each area so that the concrete pads are located.
In case you think the latter is barmy try a web search for Davo and or pondscaper, from memory those are search criteria that may lead you to what I think was an absolutely stunning rock line pond. If those searches dont find him try going through all the "d"s and "p"s of user names on the boards http://watergardening.groupee.net/groupee/forums and koiphen, http://207.228.252.5/forums/
He used slab like rock mortared in place over a butyl? liner and personally I think is was almost a shame to submerge the rockwork. Be warned if you ask on the american boards about rocks in/on the bottom be prepared for a long and sometimes vigourous debate over whether they are a good or bad idea.
Talking of koiphen I think someone on there did what I think you propse but I dont remember who, I think the build was in 2004 but the rocks were several tons in weight so shifting them wasn't feasible. I also now recollect a couple of others who utilised either bed rock and concrete or huge boulders and concrete, or at least proposed it, but I cant remember if they were on the old AWGs board which was superceeded by the first link above or if they were on koiphen.
Posted on Jun 26, 2006, 2:53 PM from IP address 84.71.123.124
Thanks very much for your reply Sean. The rock is also big and a few of them in this little hole I made. If I dig them out or must hire someone to dig it out, it will be a huge job. This is the reason why I can't use a liner and put the rocks in. I am in Hong Kong and I want to make something natural as in general, a lot of the things in this country is all too made up. I made a rock pool for my kids and hired someone to waterproof it but all the rocks were covered with cement. I am almost deciding to concrete and work around the rocks??!!! Gee, if it doesnt work, it will be a huge job!!!Look at the photo of the little rock pool I made. You might have to enter pegghk for password. http://ImageEvent.com/peggfamilyhk/peggfamilyhomegarden
Posted on Jun 27, 2006, 1:11 AM from IP address 219.79.83.188
Nice house and garden, in that case if no one else answers I'd suggest you post this 'thread' on koiphen. If you do post it on the likes of koiphen point out that you are in Hong Kong and ask for description of what things are as well as just the names of products.
I know its sad but I'd now change the pass word for your photo site. If you want to post photos to a thread I'd use one of the free hosts such as photobucket and limit whats on such a host to garden shots without family etc and I would be careful to NOT post photos that might allow your location to be pin pointed.
Oh, G4 and P1 may not be available to you there but pond paint should be, from memory I believe P1 is VERY similar to an epoxy wall paint/sealer used that can be used in food handling areas eg kitchen
Posted on Jun 27, 2006, 9:47 AM from IP address 84.67.232.244
One other thing has just come to mind, I dont know how good it is or if it would be suitable but I think a couple of the folks on koiphen have had pond lined with something like a spray on foam. If I am mistaken about members having had that done then there is at least one of the sprayers on koiphen. I dont remember the name of the stuff but I have the impression it remains somewhat flexible even when set and you might be able to find local firms that do similar 'stuff'
Posted on Jun 27, 2006, 10:00 AM from IP address 84.67.232.244
Thanks a lot Sean and also for your advice re photoweb. In this case, is it possible for the moderator to edit my message by taking the password? I forgot I was posting in a forum. I would like to keep my password if possible because it is already known to few family & friends. Re sealing of the pond, I will search for a transparent sealant. I know that you can get it in England. HK is not the best place for DIY. And it seems a big surprise when a woman does construction here.
Posted on Jun 27, 2006, 4:56 PM from IP address 219.79.83.188
I am thinking of constructing a trickle tower as additional filtration for my koi pond. I have seen various DIY versions made and would appreciate some advice on what the essential components of a trickle tower are as I have not seen 1 actually up and running, just pics on line.
Additionally can I use chopped up plastic piping as the media? Everyone seems to be using lava rock or expensive purpose designed media.
Posted on Jun 22, 2006, 4:45 PM from IP address 86.144.220.92
Steven,
Have a look at the threads on this forum, 44, 47, 87, 108.
This should give you all you need to know on how to make a TT.
It is as easy as it looks... or easier.
Basic design is water butt or similar vessel larger the better.
Dont use the tap but cut a hole in the bottom with suggest a 2inch tank connecter in it. Pipe this back to the pond (obviously this has to above pond water level to gravitate back).
Then the feed is pumped from the last filter bay up and over the top with a way of sprinkling the water over the media. You are trying to achieve something that looks like a shower head effect.
If you look at Alans design he has used a bucket with holes drilled in it and a basket, I have used a rotating arm.
The media is ideally Flocor or like you say pipe cut up into inch lengths. corrugated pipe would be better so that the bacteria have a large surface area to live.
Hope this helps
Posted on Jun 27, 2006, 1:24 PM from IP address 213.120.71.165
Hello,
I have read alot of your very interesting forum - though I have to confess that I don't understand all of it.
I have just built an ordinary garden pond (perhaps a mistake) and I intend to keep a few Koi in it. It is about 1.4m deep and is about 24,000 litres or 5000 gallons. I have been reading all sorts of things and wonder what the best way is to introduce my new fish. Specifically:
1. SHould they go into a quarantine tank first? (I will have to build one)
2. Should I let the filter run for a while before introducing fish? If so, for how long?
3. Similarly - do I need to establish plants before the fish?
4. How important is shade?
5. I intend to get very small fish and let them grow - would 20-30 3-4in koi, 15-20 equally small golden orfe and a couple of goldfish be too many?
I look forward to your answers,
Regards
Posted on Jun 20, 2006, 6:30 PM from IP address 88.144.37.253
How should you stock a new pond? The answer is, with great care! I'm afraid that 50+ fish in a 5000 gallon pond is way, way too many and, of course, they'll grow into very large fish and breed. 'Small' orfe grow into surprisingly large fish.
You need to start off with just a few fish or you'll end up with 'new pond syndrome' ... ie, a pond full of toxic, unconverted fish waste (ammonia and nitrite) and your fish will die. To give you an idea, my pond is 10,000 gallons and I now have (after 3 years) 8 large koi, 8 large orfe and a mixture of about 20 goldfish, shubunkins and comets. I'll have no choice but to restrict numbers again this year.
I'll let the 'experts' comment on your other questions but, please, forget the idea of such huge quantities of fish!
Good luck.
Posted on Jun 20, 2006, 10:30 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
Given the size koi and orfe can reach I agree with "far too many fish", a nearby garden centre has 2.5ft if not 3ft koi in their pond and their big orfe, in the same pond, are probably 2ft+.
Incidently if you went for ONLY goldfish, which include comets, then 100+ fish would be sustainable but start with 20 - 30 and let them grow and breed. Last time I had an good chance to count mine I am sure there were over 100 in 1400 UK gallon but my pond is heavily planted which helps filter it. Sarassa comets are almost as colourful as koi and then there are shubunkins? (also goldfish) but I dont have them.
Re quarantine, yes quarantine! That may seem odd but there is a nasty disease knocking about, KHV? and if what I remember of it is correct then its notifiable and might cost you the liner. I haven't bought fish in 2 years, besides I keep only goldfish, so I am not that bothered about reading, with much concentration, about introduced fish diseases of koi. Try a google for KHV or something based around those letters.
Re Q tanks, have a look at large paddling pools, the ones with the floatation collar around the top or those supported by frameworks. Tanks will need shade and heron protection
Re plants and koi, some koi eat plants others dont, you can but try.
I would start the filter before you get the fish and then let the fish grow in the pond. Small koi in the right numbers for their 'grwon up size' wouldnt over load a newish filter in that volume of water. You might also like to read up on "fishless cycling" which is, I think, an aquarium keepers trick, using pure ammonia added to the water.
Shade is regarded by some as fairly important, it at least gives the fish the choice of being in the sun or out of it, it also supposedly helps control blanket weed. If provided by plants in the pond it also gives the fish places top hide from Hagar the horrible heron, actually a rather beautiful bird (when not after your fish)
Posted on Jun 21, 2006, 12:03 PM from IP address 81.77.71.177
Hello Sean - thank you for your help. I will organise a quarantine pond. And, since I really do want Koi, will start with just 4-5 small fish and see what happens.
Regards
Posted on Jun 21, 2006, 6:59 PM from IP address 84.43.100.19
Hello there,
I started my new pond a year and a half ago ,
first step i took was to buy Bio start powder which i placed into my filters and pond ,and ran them for about two weeks to get my good bacteria levels up .
Then i went and bought about ten baby koi ,which i let float around the pond in there plastic bags ,so the temp could equalise ,then gently i released the koi into my pond ,being careful not to get any of the water from the bags into my pond (might have parasites ect.. from the koi shop).
I also add a few gold fish to help with the maturing of the pond .With the first batch of koi i did not buy expensive fish .
after six months i removed some of the fish and bought betters one , with the new fish i placed them in a quarintine tank for three weeks .
use it loose it .
good luck
shaneA
South Africa
P.S i add salt into my pond ,which helps with calming the
new koi and helps with osmosis .
Posted on Jun 27, 2006, 7:23 AM from IP address 198.54.202.234
I just thought I would comment on the strange behaviour of all my fish.
Over the last few days every morning all 40 or so of my fish have taken to swimming up to the shallow end of the pond and frantically rooting around in the pond plants.
Not so strange I hear you say, but have any of you ever come across shubunkins, comets and 25" koi wriggling out of the water onto the top of the pond plants and just lying on top of them completely out of the water for 5 minutes at a time before calmly sliding back into the water.
Are they trying to evolve into lizards or what?
Posted on Jun 21, 2006, 2:50 PM from IP address 86.144.220.92
Your post reminds me of a large ghost koi I once had ... he actually used to sunbathe. Every time the sun came out, he'd wriggle out on top of the water cress and stay there for hours on end.
Bless him ... it didn't seem to be doing him any harm. That is, until the heron got him. It broke my heart!
Posted on Jun 26, 2006, 12:15 PM from IP address 195.93.21.70
i have just bought a second hand biotec 4 filter system,i require the installation instructions, is it a gravity or pumped system, i think it has a uv lamp in it, what size lamp and where do i get 1 from?
Posted on Jun 24, 2006, 11:57 AM from IP address 62.254.64.16
just a few words for anyone with similar problems to mine, i have single handedly built in my opinion a cracking 2750 gallon pond, i followed all the rules, read all the books, asked all the questions etc, i went for a bigger uv(55w) bigger filter, nexus 300 , should do a 6000 gall pond and a 410 answer which i thought should do perfect, bit dear but you get what you pay for( or should)i filled my ond turned on my pumps and watched my hard graft come to life, i slowly added fish and my water went from clear to tinged to murky brown with a foam scum on the top, great! without much choice my only option was to pull out the answer & fit an eazy retro fit, within 2 days there was a vast difference, it has now been on a week and the water is gin clear, i can see my fish again!no scum or anything , a totally different pond so if you,re thinking of a nexus with answer, get an eazy and save £££s on electric as well.
Posted on Jun 24, 2006, 8:31 AM from IP address 82.12.255.149
