Well... Glad you asked

The 240EFI is a well used and deployed 6 cyclinder work horse. Any Mercury shop can work on it. In 2000 and some 2001's, there were a batch of 240EFIs which were setup incorrectly where the idle would be around 600-800RPMs. Basically, their computer was incorrectly built for the type of charging system onboard the 240's. The charging system requires > 1000 RPMs to charge. At 800 RPMs, the battery will be discharging to keep the powerhead running. Add any radio or other power draw, or a long Slow No JetWild Zone and you can run down your battery quickly.

It is not uncommon for a battery to be pulled below 12volts when the starter is engaged and here is where the "loading" affect comes in. The injectors fire when pulled to ground. They sit at Vbattery and when pulled low to ground they fire. If the battery voltage is below 12volts... the injectors will not fire properly... i.e. and possibly load up the cyclinders... and cause the RPMs to drop... which causes the battery voltage to drop... which loads up the cyclinder more... and the 240 slows in RPMs and shuts off sounding very weak and sickly.

Now, when you try to fire it up again... it doesn't want to start because the cyclinders are loaded up with fuel. It will run, but very with very low RPMs... and it will stop again reinforcing the loading issue. At this point... STOP!

Any 240EFI can experience this problem if the battery is weak and/or low on charge. Having said that... Back to your potential purchase... What you need to do is determine if the 2001 240EFI you are looking at idles at 800 RPMs or over 1000 RPMs. If at 800 RPMs... don't buy it... if over 1000 RPMs... it's going to be fine with a good healthy battery.

There is also a possiblity the 240EFI could be configured with a Real Alternator... in which case... everything should be fine. However, this might be unlikely because the alternator versions came in later models.

Note:
For anyone who finds themselves on the water with a 240EFI which won't stay running... Take advantage of the controlled steering. Put the jet in Reverse and Turn your steering wheel all the way right of left before starting the 240EFI... This will increase the initial RPMs over 1000 RPMs when started and it won't race away because it's in Reverse. Also, when the 240EFI starts to fire... give it some throttle. The idea is to get the RPMs up to blow out the fouled cyclinders. In Reverse... you can crank the throttle without moving much. Once the cyclinders are clean and the charging system is working properly... you will be able to transistion to Forward and get back to Jetting Wild!!!

Battery Rules to JetWild by:
1) Always charge your battery while in your garage. Don't require the charging system to fill up a low battery. Long Slow NO JetWild Zones can load up your 240EFI and make for awkward moments in a crowded channel. Use a Battery Tender or alike to keep your battery at peak charge.
2) Don't blast a radio and run other electronics during long Slow NO JetWild Zones without a known good batter which is fully charged.
3) Always verify the Lanyard is attached before attemping to start your 240EFI. This has happened to everyone... they crank and crank and crank... nothing... damn, I forgot the lanyard. Right there... REMEMBER THIS... You just pumped a bunch of fuel into the powerhead and if you immediately connect the lanyard and light this bomb... you had better be close to shore! One guy blew out is exhaust tube and his jet started taking on water quite quickly. Let it set for a few minutes before attempting to start your engine.
4) Turn OFF all electronics before attempting to start your engine.
5) Verify your battery posts are tight before every launch.
6) Battery fluid levels and tie downs are important as well.
7) Know the condition of your Battery before hitting the water.

All this might sound like a bunch of crap to doo... If you want to have fun Jetting Wild... ignore this stuff and you will some day be stranded out on the water without a paddle.

JetWild!!!
240EFISpeedSter
Rj