1971 429 Mustang Tech Forum

This message board is maintained as a public service by FoMoCo Obsolete, which has no connections whatsoever with the 'Ford Motor Company, Inc.' ® You're invited to post questions about 429-equipped 1971 Mustangs, but we also hope you will help others by sharing relevant knowledge and experience.

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Hood Hinges

by

I just replaced my hood hinges.They were worn out. I guess 429CJ cars get the motor shown off
more than any other car. The hood being open all day at car showes takes it toll on the hinges too.
Does anyone know what color the hinges should be??? From what I can tell, from looking at several others very close, is that they were black and not phospate and oil. Part of it's painted and part of it is natural.

Posted on Jul 10, 1999, 10:11 PM
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Hinge finish

by rich pajzer

The intire hinge, and the spring was black natural, no paint of any kind. Isn't natural black the color for Phospate & Oil, correct me if I'm wrong. The finish on the hinges was also the same finish used on the Hood Latch Assembly. Hope this post makes it, as this is my 2nd atempt.

Posted on Jul 11, 1999, 8:54 PM
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COLOR CORRECTION

by Rich Pajzer

The hood hinges and springs, the hood latch, and the 2 top front shock mounts were a natural GRAY finish, not painted. I don't what the finish is called though. It's sort of a dull zinc. I am now in the process of painting my hinges, and am checking into some of the grays that the Eastwood Co sells.

Posted on Jul 24, 1999, 8:29 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.27


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Hinge Finish

by

Could this finish be phosfate and oil???
I have looked close at 3 sets of hinges. each of them look like they were panted black. The zink type finish is on it where the hinge bolts aginst the hood and sides.. As if it was painted after bloted in place. It looks factory because it does not come off easy like spray paint does.
I don't know for sure but this is what I have seen on several original examples.

Posted on Jul 28, 1999, 1:15 AM
from IP address 206.154.3.107


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Radiator caps chrome

by

I took my autolite radiator cap, that is zinc, and polished it on a buffer. Guess what??? Now it's CHROME.
It only took 5 min.

Posted on Jul 10, 1999, 9:55 PM
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August Must. Monthly

by rich

Got my issue in the mail today, and this board is listed on page 14.

Posted on Jul 10, 1999, 8:02 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.117


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Listing

by John B

Rich, I'm glad it made it! I've been checking my mailbox each day for the August issue, but have not received it yet. Hopefully, this note in Mustand Monthly will bring in a few more 429 owners as well as our mailing to the registry.

Posted on Jul 10, 1999, 9:39 PM
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Hard to find parts

by

If any one can tell me where i can get a center console in with ash tray and clock mount in good shape please let me know Ihave been looking for at least the last 7 years. I also need a urethane front bumper in good shape also,and a fan shroud for 71 429 scj. Please help if you can am trying to finnish resto on car my late father bought brand new in 71.

Posted on Jul 9, 1999, 10:40 PM
from IP address 152.163.205.62


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Console, Fan Shroud

by

I will look at my parts , I think I have all the parts to put build a nice console.
I just ordered a 429 fan shroud From Auto Krafters. It fits and functions well ,but it is a cheep plastic repro., far from the real thing. With a little paint and decals it might be OK.
It says made by DEARBORNE CLASSICS on it.
Oklahoma Mustang had some a while back.

Posted on Jul 10, 1999, 3:14 PM
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Fan shroud

by Nigelj

Hi Jimmy,
Could you give me the details of where the fan shroud came from & how much it was, as I haven't been able to find anyone who knows what one looks like let alone sells one.


Posted on Jul 13, 1999, 8:08 AM
from IP address 195.166.139.132


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TORINO FAN SHROUD

by rich

The 429 CJ Mustang shroud was made of fiberglass and is the same shroud used on the 71 429 Torino. Several years ago, I saw a note in "Muscle Cars Mag" that stated the shroud was now in Repro for the Torino. The shape of the 429 shroud is basicly the same as the plastic ones used on a 351 mustang, except that the 429 one was more shallow. You could try a place that just deals in Torinos, or If you dont care about orinality, and if your handy, you could cut a plastic one to make it shallower, so that it looks correct for a 429. I'll try to look in the mags for this, as I dont have many of them.

Posted on Jul 13, 1999, 11:11 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.147


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Fan Shrouds

by

As Jimmy pointed out in an earlier post the Reproduction shroud is a plastic version that looks nothing like the original.
The original was fiberglass and the Repro.Is made from a lighter guage plastic.
I'm sure it would function fine but for those who seek total or as close to original as they can get it's not even close.(my opinion)
If anybody wants the Repro. DEARBORN CLASSICS (a Torino Parts Vendor) sells it.

Dearborn Classics
P.O Box 7649
Bend,Oregon 97708-7649

Phone 1-800-252-7427
Outside USA (541)318-7471

Posted on Jul 13, 1999, 11:34 PM
from IP address 205.188.193.29


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The repo shroud does just fine! Just my opinion.... N/M

by mac1971

reporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporepo...

Posted on Jul 14, 1999, 7:05 PM
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I couldn't find the mag in question...N/M

by RICH PAJZER

f

Posted on Jul 14, 1999, 5:02 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2


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Fan shroud

by

Nigelj, I got the repro. fan shroud from ,
Auto Krafters, PO Box 8, Broadway VA.,USA
Tel. 540-896-5910, http://autokrafters.com/
It cost $84.95 dollars US. It is much thinner than the original. It is plastic also. It looks like it will fit though. Also try Oklahoma Classic Mustang, I think they are on the net.

Posted on Jul 15, 1999, 10:09 PM
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Thanks Jimmy

by Nigelj

Thanks Jimmy......

Posted on Jul 16, 1999, 6:06 PM
from IP address 195.166.139.133


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Console 71 mach 1

by

Thank you for your response to my question about the parts I need. If you happen to have the parts to piece together a console and could do it for me i would greatly appreciate it. Please let me know the price you would sell it to me for. Also one thing I forgot to mention on my list was where would I be able to get ahold of a neoprene front bumper as the original for the car was ruined in 1976 and my late father went to a chrome front bumper.
Thank you again and please let me know about the console.

Posted on Jul 13, 1999, 11:45 PM
from IP address 152.163.195.199


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Console

by Kevin W.

I found a place which have complete consoles and are refurbished: Bill Herndon's Pony warehouse in Maryland @ 301-977-0309 ($295.00). Perhaps there is a cheaper place??

Posted on Jul 14, 1999, 7:48 AM
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Parts

by

John, it would be worth checking with our sponsor, Mr. F for these parts (click on the FoMoCo Obsolete , then E-mail him.) If he doesn't have them, Perogie Enterprises is another possible source. Please E-mail me if you need their address.

Posted on Jul 10, 1999, 9:44 PM
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parts should be no problem

by greg schafrrick

the console and bumper should be no problem, 429 items i am not sure about, I just enjoy reading the forum. Check with vintage-mustang.com, that site has everything. If you still can't find them I know where the parts are,just have to did out the peoples names

Posted on Jul 11, 1999, 9:19 AM
from IP address 152.163.197.68


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Radiator Shrouds

by Joe

I bought the Plastic repo, and hate to disappoint you repo fans but it is trash. The first time your car warms up, it warps. It also fits tighter to the blades than the originals. I own four originals. There is simply no comparison and the repop doesn't last long enough to get home.. By the way, our car runs around 185-190 temp.
Price for these originals is steep. I bought two around $125-150. The latter was priced over 250.
Found one at a friends for $50. Can give all the specs if needed.

Take care.

Posted on Jul 14, 1999, 9:15 PM
from IP address 153.39.41.151


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re rad shrouds

by Nigelj

I was all set to buy a repo & now I am not so sure. I wouldn't mind spending that kind of money if I could find one. I have little chance of finding one in the UK, perhaps yo could point me in the right direction. Any info much appreciated.

Posted on Jul 15, 1999, 3:49 AM
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hAVEN'T SEEN A REPRO PART YET, THAT WASN'T RIGHT! N/M

by RICH

Q

Posted on Jul 15, 1999, 6:24 PM
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Sorry to here about your repo trash... BUT, mine is still perfect after 4 years... N/M : - )

by mac1971

reporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporepo
reporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporeporepo

Posted on Jul 15, 1999, 9:38 PM
from IP address 209.161.250.132


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I have a good console.

by

John T., I have a nice console (refurbished). Give me a ring and we will get togeather on it. It will be much cheeper than Bill "High Dollar" Herndon.

Posted on Jul 18, 1999, 6:07 PM
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console

by

John:
I have a console, I know it is in fair shape.
But Depending on how far away you are, the shipping will cost more than the part is worth.

Allen :>)

Posted on Jul 23, 1999, 3:22 PM
from IP address 161.184.16.23


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A truly obscure question on kickdown rods...

by John B

Does anyone know what the original coating is supposed to be on the transmission kickdown rod? The only coating I have seen is a natural *rust* color, however, this probably wasn't the coating it left the factory with! Thanks!

Posted on Jul 8, 1999, 11:22 PM
from IP address 205.188.193.156


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color

by rich

the rods were a light yellow chromate, and had a paint daub at the end of the rod to ID it, dont rememember which end , or if it was both.

Posted on Jul 9, 1999, 10:35 AM
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Kick down rod

by

All the ones I have seen have been like Rich said.
Yellow Dichromate, same color as some of the screws.

Posted on Jul 10, 1999, 9:59 PM
from IP address 208.246.1.159


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Important message (we're baaaaaack! ;-)

by Mr F

So - go figure computers, huh?  ;-)

After much typing, clicking, and other online shenanigans all should be pretty much as it was before.  A few features may be impaired, but only until tomorrow.  Most important, your old links should work just fine ....no need to do anything unusual.  If your browser insists on returning you to that "loop" page, it just means you'll need to clear cache memory.  (For those with less technical bent, just hold down the "Shift" key while pressing the "Enter" key.)

If all else fails, try using our new IP address - meaning you must type: http://168.144.50.239 - rather than our standard domain name of "www.fomoco.com".  But even so, this should be nothing more than a temporary patch.  By week's end all the records will have been updated and you can return to using our name instead of numbers.  In fact, you soon should even be able to chop off a few letters and call us just "fomoco.com".

Please accept my apology for the last few days' inconvenience, as well as my thanks for sticking with us through this transition.  And please be sure to tell your friends we're back in business.  Big things are about to happen around here ....we wouldn't want anyone to miss out on the fun.  :-)
---
Mr F



Posted on Jul 6, 1999, 6:19 PM
from IP address 209.71.79.243


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NPD EXHAUST REPORT

by

Well I bit the bullet and ordered my exhaust from NPD a couple of weeks ago. Haven't seen it yet. A point of interest should be made as NPD states free delivery over 250.00. NOT True on Exhaust. There is an extra 40.00 shipping fee.It is a custom order and is not kept in stock. I believe they are made as ordered and shipped directly from their supplier. At any rate, I'll let you know how it bolts up.
I also ordered a new headliner and sail panels The color (Vermillion) is an exact match and the material is very good in quality.


Posted on Jul 2, 1999, 10:58 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.57


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Sail Panels?

by mac1971

Hi Bob, Excuse my misunderstanding, but what are sail panels?... I'm curious, as my car also has the vermillion interior. Have you seen any good reproduction door panels in this colour? Thanks Ken M.

Posted on Jul 3, 1999, 9:14 AM
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Door panels

by

Gene Painter in Greer S.C. recovers deluxe door panels. Tel. 864-297-0342. The ones I have seen have been very good, as good as new. I think he does these in all colors. The price was half to a thurd cheeper too.
Remember when changing from std. to delx. panels you need to get the inside door handles and the part they bolt to. These parts are different than standard panels. I have an extra set of handle parts.

Posted on Jul 3, 1999, 7:16 PM
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Sail Panels

by

Sail panels are the interior trim panels that fit between the package tray and the Upper quarter panel behind the seat.Also called roof side interior trim panels. I have always heard them referred to as sail panels.Sorry for any confusion.

Posted on Jul 4, 1999, 12:18 AM
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Untitled

by

Ken,
I don't think you were a visitor here when I asked last time, do you know of a location for vermillion colored interior parts? Please contact me at my e-mail address. Thanks.

Posted on Jul 6, 1999, 12:02 PM
from IP address 144.15.249.33


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Exhaust

by

Bob, just out of curiousity, did you opt for the aluminized or the stainless steel exhaust, and what drove your decision for the one you chose. I too will be needing an exhaust system soon. Thanks.

Posted on Jul 4, 1999, 1:18 AM
from IP address 152.163.201.214


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Aluminized will work for me

by

I considered a few factors when ordering it.
1. Price I am on a budget
2. The car will not be a daily driver and will stay in the garage most of the time.
3. I have seen aluminized exhausts 5 years old that still look good.


Posted on Jul 4, 1999, 9:02 AM
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Thanks!

by John B

Bob, 1, 2 and 3 apply for me as well. I too will probably go for the aluminized.

Posted on Jul 4, 1999, 11:25 PM
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71 Exhaust System

by RICH

Mustangs Unlimited also sells an Aluminized version which uses 2 1/4" tailpipes,(the stock original system only had 2" tailpipes.) Semo Mustang has a Concours (stock) System, but I think it runs around $350-400.

Posted on Jul 9, 1999, 6:50 PM
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Ver($$)million

by Jim Gates

Bob,
Is this color combination unique to the 71 model year? Our 72 also has a vermillion interior, but the head liner and sail panels are black. However, the metal trim pieces around the edge of the headliner at the top of the windows is vermillion. Have you found a paint for the metal trim that matches the fabric color? If so, I'd like to hear where you got it and what the code or part number are.

Posted on Jul 6, 1999, 11:58 AM
from IP address 144.15.249.33


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Vermillion colors

by

I thought I was the only one who had color problems..

My Mach 1 also has the vermillion interior (it was available from 71-73 in the Mustangs).
When I bought the car someone had replaced the door panels with good quality, but the color was wrong and it was chipping off. I had even bought what was suppose to be a vinyl dye and re-did the panels but it chipped and peeled. I searched several sources to find a new paint/dye with little luck, untill....

I found a local supplier DTM Mustangs, email

dtm@dtmn.com

I ordered vermillion acrylic lacquer to repaint all the "HARD PLASTICS' and metals and a vinyl dye to re-dye the door panels soft vinyl. As well as a vinyl prep/primer.

When I received the product it was in a 'California Mustang' can. The paint for hard plastics and metals PN 16050 and the Dye PN V16050 and PN A0707 for the vinyl primer.

The colors are perfect!!! and they worked great!!
Very easy to use.

I used a good quality lacquor thinner to remove all the old color off the door panels and then primed them with the 'California Mustang' vinyl primer and then sprayed them with the new vermillion vinyl dye. If the color you have on your plastics will not come off with this method, you can simply prime and respray right over top of the old color.

hope this is of some help

Allen

Posted on Jul 7, 1999, 12:54 PM
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Vermillion colors

by

I'm unsure if the headliner was 71 specific. the original was vermillion as well as the trim.sunvisors and the coathooks. All of the rear quarter trim panels and standard door panels. Since it's not a mach I can get off cheap with new doorpanels. I bought my front seat covers from Pittsburg mustang thay were
a good match. I noticed that the color seemed to darken a little over the years. I installed a full console and repainted it to match my
interior. Believe it or not Rustolium Hard hat osha red matched up well. Of course if I had been Mustang Literate at the time I would have searched a lot harder for the perfect match.
There is a difference between the shades of vermillion in 70 and 71 colors. It is possible
for 72 but my can of dye says 71 ford vermillion.

Posted on Jul 7, 1999, 10:31 PM
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"Network 54, who are you?" (apologies to Tooty & Muldoon, et al)

by Mr F

Please note: probably hoping to tap into some of those big Internet bucks, the former "Netbabbler" group have gone to the cocoon and morphed into something called "Network 54".  As one might expect, this change comes with an eponymous domain called "network54.com".  Same gig - new name.  Although their server can handle the redirected links, I recommend you change yours accordingly.  For instance, this forum is now found at: http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/goto?forumid=9907

Meanwhile, our website is switching to the new server tonight.  You shouldn't notice any changes, for now, but look for a slew of new features and resources to be added by month's end.  :-)
---
Mr F



Posted on Jul 1, 1999, 5:20 PM
from IP address 209.71.50.151


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Mystery platic cover.

by Nigelj

I have a plastic cover that I found in the trunk of my car, it has been puzzling me for quite some time can anyone help? The code is
D1ZB16A563AC
It is black & has 3 small bolt holes in it, it also looks as if it should be one of a pair.
Any ideas?

Posted on Jun 29, 1999, 9:13 AM
from IP address 195.166.139.132


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shield

by rich pajzer

Sounds like one of the four plastic splash shields used in each front fender, but the number you gave dosent match any of those sheilds? Also couldn't find that number in the parts book. Can you discribe what you found? Length, width, shape, and maybe the distances between the holes.

Posted on Jun 29, 1999, 10:26 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.68


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front - tire splash shield

by rich pajzer

The shield you found goes inside the fender, from the tire side. The shield is mounted to the radiator support. Dont know if its the right or left shield you have, you will have to tell. The sheild was mounted with basically the same type of screw used to hold on the voltage regulator. When the shield is installed, it's shape will follow the contour of the fender shape. Hope this helps you.

Posted on Jun 29, 1999, 11:37 AM
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? Can't get it to fit.

by Nigelj

Thanks guys, you are probably right about it being attached to the inner fender but I just can’t see where it should go. So I thought I would describe it . Sitting flat on the table it is about 13.5 inches long & 9.5 inches deep. Looking at it from above the L/H edge is cut off straight, even though the top edge rises up in a curve 5 inches high. The bottom edge is ribbed to give it strength & has2 furthe ribs leading from it up into the middle. There are3 holes about 5/16 in diameter and are along the bottom edge, the middle one being 2 inches in & the other 2 are ½ to 1 inch in. The top edge is curled up like it has been bent around a pipe for strenght. The R/H edge is difficult to describe but the curled edge runs down its full length & it has a rib in the middle. The part number is on the other side. DlZB 16A563 AC ,above it is a large Z and a back to front Dollar sign thing, along with the Ford logo. Sorry it is a bit long winded.
(I wish I had a digital camera, it would be a lot easier)
Nigel


Posted on Jun 30, 1999, 5:33 PM
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Mystery shield

by

I have one too. It was in my dash pocket, when I got my car. I think I saw one at the front of the inner fender. Mine has one hole and about 2"X 3".
It is marked D1ZB-16D-204-AA

Posted on Jun 30, 1999, 12:17 AM
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JIMMY / NIGEL

by RICH

jIM, your shield goes inside the fender, besides the headlight housing, at the front of the fender. Nigel, you need to look at both sides, you may already have your shield on one side. You should find 3 holes in your radiator support, as viewed from inside the fender, looking in from near the tire. The 3 holes will line up with your sheild. It's hard to discribe!

Posted on Jun 30, 1999, 9:03 PM
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sheilds

by rich

Ok, there were actually 5 sheilds used on each FRONT fender...2 large sheilds..and 3 small. The 2 large sheilds were used, one in the foward tire area, and one in the rear tire. 2 small ones were used in the front of the fender, and the last small one was used on the top of the fender near the winsheild post. The sheild that jim found goes in the TOP of the fender, right beside the headlight, so Jim, you might have a hard time seeing where it goes while the fenders on the car. You may have to look from the bottom? Nigelj's sheild fits in the void between the radiator support portion behind the headlight, right ABOVE the area centered with the side marker light. When Nigelj's sheild is in place it will form a CONTINUATION of the radiator support, so that the support looks like it continues out enough to actually meet the sheet metal of the fender side, near the top . If you still cant get it in, I'll look at my car on the weekend, and try to explain it better.

Posted on Jul 1, 1999, 12:28 AM
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Tear down?

by Nigelj

Rich,
Thanks for the info. I still can't work out exactly where the sheild goes probably because the front end of my car is sriped down back to the rad support & I have nothing to mach it up to.

Posted on Jul 6, 1999, 5:26 AM
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429cj fuel pump rebuild...

by mac1971

Restoring my cj fuel pump, and I am in the process of putting it back together. I made a cardinal mistake when I took it apart... I did not look at where certain parts are to be reinstalled :( My Ford manual is not specific enough to tell me if I have out the pump back together...

Anyhow, I know I am going out on a limb here, but I'll ask anyways... If anyone has had previous experience in re and re on these pumps my question centers on the reinstallation of the "long" fuel pump arm that rides on the camshaft to operate the pump. When installing this back into the pump, does it sit above the spring diaphram, or is it somehow suppose to be inserted into the spring assembly?

When I first rebuilt the pump, I had the tip of the arm sitting above the spring mechanism inside the pump, but it seems to completely jam the pump. Remember, there is also an additional steel "anti-force?" arm that is inserted into the long arm and also holds the another small spring which gives the pump it's ability to keep constant pressure on the long arm, so that there is no play. It seems like a simple reinstallation process, but when the pump is complete, I can't move the long arm in any way... Any ideas on this, or where I might locate a more detailed schematic of the 71-429cj fuel pump, will be appreciated. Thanks...

Posted on Jun 23, 1999, 11:01 PM
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fuel pumps

by rich

The long arm rides on top of the spring, and the spring rides on top of the diapham. While trying to move the arm by hand to test the pump you will not be able to excert enough force to move the arm. Try wrapping the arm in a towel, then put the arm in a vise. You should then be able to test the arm movement by forcing the pump body.

The large spring is what compresses the diaphram to pump the fuel. The large arm only applies force to the spring. In situations where the carb dosen't need gas ( carb neddle valve closed), the large spring will just compress when the large arm pushes it down. The spring compresses because no gas is leaving the pump, so the diapham won't compress. Because of this something has to give, and that's the spring. By looking at how the pump works, it should help when re-assembling one. Hope this helps, but it easier when the part can be seen.

Posted on Jun 26, 1999, 9:00 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.118


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429cj fuel pump

by mac1971

Thanks Rich, but I still am not sure if I have reassembled the pump properly. I am aware of the basic operation of a fuel pump, but this unit has me "stumped", all because I did not look at the make-up of the unit before disasembling it. With the unit reassembled, the spring (outer)from the rocker arm to the pump body is almost fully compressed. It doesn't appear that there is any room for the fuel pump to operate, without damaging it. Also, the diaphram appears fully compressed up into the rocker arm housing area, thereby meaning that with the outer rocker arm spring also almost fully compressed, there doesn't appear to be any room for the rocker arm to push the diaphram back towards the main body of the pump. It almost looks as though the pump will work in reverse, i.e. instead of pushing down on the rocker arm, you would push up... This is why I am trying to ensure the location of the tip of the rocker arm in the fuel pump. Does it just sit above the diaphram spring (as is the case now), or is it suppose to fit somewhere into the diaphram spring assembly, which would appear to ease the outer spring tension, and give the rocker arm more movement freedom. How much does this rocker arm actually move in the up and down direction? None of the information I have can give me explicit details to reassembling the pump. Any further viewpoints from one and all is appreciated! :(

Posted on Jun 30, 1999, 3:15 PM
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Well, if you really *must* know.... ;-)

by Mr F

I am aware of the basic operation of a fuel pump, but this unit has me "stumped", all because I did not look at the make-up of the unit before disasembling it.

You have to admit, Mac - that's a classic error.  ;-)  But, seeing how you're a good customer and all its the least I can do to offer some help.  So, if you're still stuck, drop me a note using this link and I will gladly disassemble a NOS pump to get the answer for you.  Fair enough?
---
Mr F



Posted on Jun 30, 1999, 9:35 PM
from IP address 207.103.93.145


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Where did you get the rebuild kit? n/m

by Halowe

x

Posted on Jul 8, 1999, 5:38 PM
from IP address 138.26.184.108


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The kit came from Mr. F. : - ) N/M

by mac1971

x

Posted on Jul 8, 1999, 9:55 PM
from IP address 209.161.243.37


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C6 Kickdown

by John B

I've finally got the C6 hooked up to my 429 for the first time and can look at the kickdown rod requirements (don't know if this is the official name for this part - I'm referring to the tube which connects from the carb linkage to the kickdown lever on the trans) . I have one from a 72 429 T-bird which I had hoped by some miracle might fit. It doesn't. I can probably modify it to work, but would prefer a correct one. Anyone have a suggested source for this part? As always, any help is appreciated.


Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 12:22 AM
from IP address 152.163.213.64


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C6 Kickdown Rods

by rich

The CJ used D1ZZ-7A187-H with a pink paint daub to ID it, it was 19" long. The SCJ used D1ZZ-7A187-K...green paint daub...19" long. These are both different than the ones used on the 429 Torino. A 68-71 T-bird also use one that was 19' long. In 72, the t-bird went to 26- 27 1/2 " . I have used different rods on my 351, and just had to make one slight bend to it, very slight. The 68-71 T-Bird should work for your 429. ( John only missed it by one year!)

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 10:47 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.148


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SAAC 24

by

Just wonderering who are making plans to attend the shelby meet at Michigan International Speedway because I would like to meet up with all that will be there at sometime during Sat or Sun.

Posted on Jun 20, 1999, 6:07 AM
from IP address 206.172.183.128


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Details?

by mac1971

Hi Morris, Can you give me some specifics as to when this show is, and where the Michigan International Speedway is. I might cinsider this show. thanks

Posted on Jun 20, 1999, 10:05 PM
from IP address 209.161.242.201


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More Info

by John B

Hi Morris. Like, Ken, I was wondering if you had more details about this meet - (time it starts, etc.). Thanks.

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 12:13 AM
from IP address 152.163.213.64


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Detials

by

SAAC24 is the shelby American national convention being held at MIS located in Brooklyn Mich outside of Jackson nnot far from Detroit. This going on this Fri,Sat, and Sun. For more follow this link
http://www.saac.com/eventsAndConventions/upcomingEvent2.html

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 7:07 AM
from IP address 206.172.183.118


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I'll Be Goin'

by

Morris/Ken/anybody else - let me know if you are going to go. I can go Saturday, probably morning through early afternoon. If you would like to meet up, E-mail me and we'll make some arrangements!

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 7:25 PM
from IP address 205.188.196.54


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Unfortunately, a No Go :(

by mac1971

John/Morris, The timing is off by a few days for me. I'm driving from Toronto to Sault Ste Marie, through Michigan. I'm leaving Thursday morning and coming home Sunday evening... Too bad, I would have liked to have dropped by for an afternoon... Maybe next time! Have fun, and let us know the outcome. Ken. P.S. Morris, if you don't go, I'd like to drop by to see your 'stang on the weekend, while I'm up in the Sault. Let me know, or maybe some othertime, as I usually get up there once each summer. Thanks. Ken.

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 11:10 PM
from IP address 209.161.247.185


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Travel Plans

by

John, Ken
I hope to leave very early Saturday morning to arrive in the afternoon around noon or 1 pm and planning to stay until Sunday late afternoon or Monday morning. I would very much like to meet up with you there somehow. I also know that Randy from Petosky is going also on Saturday and then on to some vintige races somewhere. Unfortunatly I will not be bringing my car with me because i took it apart last fall to detail the engine compartment last fall and have not got it back together yet.

Ken, I will be around on Thurs and Friday, you can reach me at 705-945-8617, If you would like to meet up while you are here in Sault Ste Marie.

Later,
Morris

Posted on Jun 23, 1999, 9:55 AM
from IP address 206.172.183.121


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Meeting Time/Location

by

If anyone else is attending this show, and would like to meet up, John Blair, Morris, Jim O'Donnel, and Randy from Petosky will be meeting tomorrow (Saturday) at 1:00 PM. There is a tunnel at MIS which goes from the outside of the track to the pit area inside the track. We'll be meeting at the outside entrance of the tunnel at 1:00 PM. Maybe I'll see you there!

Posted on Jun 25, 1999, 4:45 PM
from IP address 205.188.193.169


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Report on SAAC24

by

Just got back from a *very* hot day at Michigan International Speedway. I enjoyed meeting Morris in person as well as fellow 429 Mustang owner Randy Lestma (who many of you know). We saw multitudes of vintage Shelbys, Cobras (couldn't tell how many were kits-vs- original), some Boss 302s, a Boss 429, a Boss 351 and 1 71' Mach 1 which originally had a 351 and was converted to a 429. I spoke with this fellow only briefly and gave him my E-mail address in case he was interested in joining us. The most interesting part for me was watching these vintage vehicles do laps on the track My favorite was a Blue Boss 302 with an open exhaust system. It just screamed around the track! Just as we were leaving, we saw what appeared to be a vintage Cobra spin out and mangle it's passenger side panels on a guard rail. The driver appeared unhurt, but quite distressed at the damage. The parts at the swap meet, as expected, were primarily Shelby oriented, not much for our engines. I still enjoyed looking them over though. That's about it!

Posted on Jun 26, 1999, 6:13 PM
from IP address 152.163.213.63


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429cj Quadrajet choke set-up...

by mac1971

I have purchased (I am starting from scratch on this one, as I bought the car with the wrong carb setup) the original choke housing (Part #D00Z-9848-A for my stang, which has a C-6 setup.
Does somebody know if there should be any additional parts to be installed along with this choke setup? Or, does it drop right into the intake manifold location, and connect to the carburetor? Should the manifold choke housing opening incorporate a recessed cover plate, of which the new choke housing sits over top? My documentation does not give me a clear indication in this regard. Any comments from fellow cj c/w C-6 tranny's owners appreciated...

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 8:37 PM
from IP address 209.161.248.65


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Choke

by

I have a torino spread bore manifold in my parts collection which has a recessed cover tht the choke fits into. I bet it is the same. I'll describe: Rescessed bowl type cover heat sensitive spring type coil with an attaching rod to the carb. Hope this helps.


Posted on Jun 17, 1999, 5:28 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.68


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Q-Jet choke

by

Bob is correct the hole in the intake has a metal plate over it. The plate has a square bowl with rounded corners, about a half of an inch down in it. It has 2 bolts that bolt the plate and the choke spring and housing to the intake. The housing is a square sheet metal cover. The spring thermostat has a rod that hooks to the linkage on the Q-Jet. The SCJ with Holley has a flat blank off plate.
Where did you get the choke ??? I have been looking for one for a year now.

Posted on Jun 17, 1999, 9:37 PM
from IP address 208.246.1.142


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Choke Element

by Jim Gates

Jimmy,
If I remember correctly, Halowe posted a location and maybe even a part number for a replacement of the choke element. I think he said it was a prefect match for his Torino application.

Posted on Jun 18, 1999, 9:13 AM
from IP address 144.15.249.33


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I'm all choked up that you remember. ; )

by Halowe

One thing that I posted on the email list was MrF's listing:

9848 - COVER & ELEMENT, thermostatic choke, 1971 429CJ (manual trans.) D0OZ-9848-AU - $59

Another thing that I posted was that a certain Mopar choke has some identical parts in it to the CJ choke. As I recall, it uses the same element, but not the same housing. I can't remember about the rod. I have that part number somewhere, or if somebody can locate it from the email list, maybe they can post it.

Posted on Jun 21, 1999, 4:29 PM
from IP address 138.26.184.108


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I got it very close by...

by mac1971

Jim,

Thanks for your response, and you have confirmed my thought on the issue. I have the 1/2" deep plate you describe already in the manifold. I'll look at bolting the new choke assembly directly over top of it. Where did I purchase it? Why from our resident Ford "guru" Mr. Ford. I am not sure if he has any more, you'll need to get in touch with him. Thanks for your help, as well as to everybody else who assisted in this matter! mac1971.

Posted on Jun 18, 1999, 8:52 PM
from IP address 209.161.246.154


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parts stores

by rich

The type of choke you are refering to is called a Devorced Type. I also beleive you may be able to just purchase these at some high quality parts stores, just like buying a regular integral choke (cap) for a carb, which I have purchased many times.

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 10:55 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.148


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4-SPEEDS

by RICH

If you go to : www.toploadertransmissions.comm
It will take you to Dan Williams site where he sells Toploader parts...rebuild kits. You can even have your 4-speed rebuilt by him, or $$remanufactured$$$ from a friend of his.

Posted on Jun 14, 1999, 6:17 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2


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This is a test n/m

by Anonymous

e

Posted on Jun 14, 1999, 8:41 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.158


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Radiator Caps

by John Blair

Can anyone tell me what the correct radiator cap looks like for our engines? In catalogs, I see 1) Chrome "Autolite" 2) Zinc "Autolite 3) A lever type 4) One with a zinc outer ring and a brass center. Are any of these correct? Also, is there a part number stamped on the cap, or is this an item that does not have a stamped in part number. Any help, as always, will be appreciated.Thanks!

Posted on Jun 11, 1999, 11:13 PM
from IP address 152.163.204.59


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top it off

by

John:
1967 to 1971 used Autolite zinc plated Rad Caps, they are still available but very expensive.
Allen

Posted on Jun 14, 1999, 5:01 PM
from IP address 161.184.17.102


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New debate uncapped!

by Halowe

I don't know about the Mustang application, but my '70 Torino CJ came from the factory with a *chrome* Autolite radiator cap.

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 11:53 AM
from IP address 138.26.184.108


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Chrome Caps

by Rich Pajzer

I bought the Chrome Autolite cap for my car, but as far as I know the Zinc Autolite was the correct original cap, and the chrome cap was some sort of dealer option? Bob Perkins did an article several years back in Mustang Mustang, on 65-73 original caps. When I find it, I will post the info.

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 5:21 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2


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Can we..........?

by Rich Pajzer

Can we get a Spell Check on this board, I really need it!!!!!

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 5:27 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2


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caps N bottle

by rich

The June 89 MM states that the zinc autolite is the correct cap, and that the chrome cap was a dealer option. The over flow bottle used an autolite RS-35 cap that said DO NOT OPEN. As of that date, the overflow bottle assembly was still available. Also while locating this article I came across just the cover to the March 86 MM. On that cover I had a notation of a place listed in that issue that reproduced the 71-73 fastback rear package tray, although I have never seen the tray offered again since?

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 10:20 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.148


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D0AE Bottle is not available from FORD, I checked. n/m

by rich

a

Posted on Jun 23, 1999, 8:30 AM
from IP address 209.240.197.26


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Thanks for the research and assistance! (n/m)

by John B

n/m

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 11:15 PM
from IP address 205.188.208.167


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Is anyone running a 71 SCJ car in NHRA stock?

by

I have a 71 Mach 1, originally an M code car and am thinking on running it in the applicable stock eliminator class with a SCJ engine. I have not decided on stick or automatic yet. I would like to find out if anyone has been successful/competitive with their 71.

Thanks
Ed

Posted on Jun 9, 1999, 8:46 PM
from IP address 205.188.198.167


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$tock Cla$$ Racing in NHRA

by Jim Gates

Ed,
Last summer I attended the NHRA national event held here in Minnesota. IIRC there were 4 71-73 Mustangs competing in Stock Eliminator. Of these, 2 were 429s and one of the other 2 was a Boss 351. Yes these cars can be competetive in stock class. The problem you will run into is that with a 429, you will be in A or B stock class. These are classes dominated by the Mopar hemi and Chev 454/427 powered cars. These are very highly refined powerplants, so competing against them would be very tough. In order to be competetive you will need to be capable of running et's in the high 10 second range. This amounts to being able to build and engine within the very restrictive rule guidelines that is capable of developing soemwhere around 550-600 hp. The eliminations are run off against dial-ins based on altitude factored class records. The pairing s are set based upon how close you are running to your dial-in during time trials. It amounts to nothing more than a bracket race! I campaigned a 65 Olds 4-4-2 in stock legal racing in the late 70s, so I am familiar with racing the orphaned children of the muscle car arena. Legal eliminator racing is a VERY expensive undertaking. On top of that, the legal guys get treated like second class citizens by the NHRA. Unless you are considering this as a serious pursuit, I would recommend going the bracket race route. The rules regarding modification are much less restrictive (and therefore cheaper). You decide how fast you want to go and you can still enjoy the thrill of race day. If you plan to do this only in your local area, it is a much more practical approach. Our 460 equipped 3700 pound 72 can run low 13s with a low compression smog motor with minor, bolt on modifications. Just my nickel's worth. I would be interested in hearing how you do if you do race it. Good luck.

Jim Gates
72 Mach1

Posted on Jun 10, 1999, 11:49 AM
from IP address 144.15.249.33


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Coolant Recovery

by John B

Does anyone know if coolant recovery bottles were ever a factory or dealer installed option for our cars? I don't believe I have ever seen one on a 71 - 73. However, I have seen some which looked much like rubber bags used on the 65 - 66 (I believe?) Mustangs. Just cuirious - I would like to someday get one should there be a factory type available. Thanks!

Posted on Jun 9, 1999, 1:14 AM
from IP address 205.188.196.42


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Untitled

by Rich

John, yes I think there was one listed in the Dealer Accessories Book for all fords. I have also seen this plastic jug in the engine shop manuals, in the radiator section, but cant say if it was in 71,72, 73, or all three books. I also wanted to add this to my car, but dont know if they still exsist.

The 65-66 "bag" was for the windshield washer fluid.

Posted on Jun 9, 1999, 8:37 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.98


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Untitled

by RICH

I WAS INTO THE SHOP MANUALS THIS AM, AND THE PICTURE OF THE JUG I SPOKE OF WAS FOR A LINCOLN.

Posted on Jun 15, 1999, 4:47 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2


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Mother "Jugs" and Speed...

by mac1971

Hi John,

My car came with the Ford "Jug" attached to the front radiator support below the radiator cap. I too had never seen a recovery bottle on a 71-73 'stang, and my research indicated that it may not have been factory installed, instead added at a dealer sometime in the future. My "jug" has faded to a light yellow over the years, but I know I will probably never find another one, so I will keep this on my car. I don't know how the rest of you can run your engine without the recovery system. Too much overflow... FYI!

Posted on Jun 10, 1999, 9:15 PM
from IP address 209.161.245.8


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overflow / boil over

by

I have 2 71 Mustangs. 1 with 351 AC and 1 with 429CJ with AC. I don't think I have ever seen either one run hot or boil over.(knock on wood) They both have flex fans , the correct fan spacer, the orginal fan shroud and antifreeze in a good radiator. I think all of the above things are important to keep the cooling system running cool.
The 71 service manual(page 27-04-02) shows a flex fan and the clutch fan (C9ZE-E 8600 with clutch C9ZE-B 8A616) on 71 429CJs. Does anyone have a clutch fan they know to be original????
It would make sense to have a clutch type fan on a SCJ with low gears. A flex fan would flatten out at the higher RPMs.
It also says the flex fan size is (D0TA-C- B8600)
For Mustang and Cougar 429. No. of blades 7, Dia. 18". Water pump ratio is .94:1 with 3.91 axle and 1.11:1 with 3.50:1 axle.




Posted on Jun 15, 1999, 11:38 PM
from IP address 12.21.240.176


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Good 429 Question

by Rich

jim, whats really crazy is the MPC lists the 71 429 fan as being marked D0OA-A...19"...7 blades...dosen't state if flex, or clutch. Also the MPC only lists a clutch up to 1970, for just the 428CJ. Didn't the Boss 302 also use a clutch. Maybe Ford used the flex fan as a replacement for the clutch fans on some cars? Or maybe the 429 just came with a flex originally? You'll have to see what other people have on their cars.

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 9:45 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.38


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Untitled

by Rich

Jim, just went to the page you mentioned, and also see the page before that one. The info on those 2 pages is in contridiction of the MPC. I really don't understand all the confusion that ford creates. Sometimes I wonder how they ever got the cars built in the first place. Also the plastic jug that I spoke of eariler is shown in the 72 book, for a Lincoln.

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 10:08 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.38


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fan spacer

by Rich

The mpc also only lists a 2 1/8" spacer for a 429 without A/C. There isn't a listing for a spacer with A/C ?

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 10:30 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.118


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DOOA fan

by

The fan in question is a flex.


Posted on Jul 20, 1999, 11:08 PM
from IP address 153.34.146.244


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pullets Again

by

If the Ford 71 manual is correct, it list 2 different ratios for the fan and water pump.
As I stated above.
.95:1 with 3.91:1 rear
1.11:1 with 3.50:1 rear
This would mean there are different pulleys.
MORE HEADACHS!!!

Posted on Jun 17, 1999, 10:05 PM
from IP address 208.246.1.142


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FOUND Ford Bottle

by Rich

I just found a universal over-flow bottle kit listed in the MPC for ALL 65-72 Fords. It goes under # D0AZ-8522-A, and it may still be available,(could still be used today.) I'm going to check it out.

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 10:39 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.118


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I new I was on track...

by mac1971

I've been waiting to see if somebody would take a long hard look at this bottle issue... My jug does have part of the Ford # still on it, D0AZ... This is in keeping with Rich's message. Again, my research on my car concluded that the bottle has been on the car since 1971, before the 72 Lincoln bottle appeared in the message above. Although not a factory installed unit, I do believe that Ford did make a universal bottle available for their cars. P.S. I went too far in my previous message stating " to much overflow...", I actually meant that there is a fluctuation in the radiator coolant system at times...

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 7:56 PM
from IP address 209.161.248.65


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Thanks!

by John B

Guys, thank you for the help on the recovery bottle. I'll check with my local dealer to see if this part is still available.

Posted on Jun 22, 1999, 12:27 AM
from IP address 152.163.213.64


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The bottle is not available from FORD, I checked n/m

by rich

a


Posted on Jun 23, 1999, 8:32 AM
from IP address 209.240.197.26


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throttle cable

by

I just broke my throttle cable on my 71 Cj with Rochester Carb.
Does anybody know what Ford parts will fit??
I have tried all my usuall sorces with no success.
Thanks
Allen

Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 8:40 PM
from IP address 161.184.17.91


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Throttle Cable

by

I just replaced the throttle cable on my CJ with a Q-Jet carb. I used one off of a 72 351C Mustang.
It worked fine.
I did discover a difference in the cables. Some have 2 screws, at the firewall and some only have one screw. They still will fit though.

Posted on Jun 9, 1999, 10:38 PM
from IP address 12.21.242.30


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Lets make due...

by mac1971

I have used a cable assembly from a 1973 Grande, with a 302 engine on my 429 cj. It's a tad shorter but it does work fine with a few alterations.

Posted on Jun 10, 1999, 9:21 PM
from IP address 209.161.245.8


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Topless CJ

by JIm Gates

This past Sunday I atended a Ford show at one of the local dealers. I saw a J code convertible there, complete with ram air hood. My assumption is that these must be fairly uncommon steeds? BTW, the same guy also had a 69 ram air 428 convertible on display.

Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 3:38 PM
from IP address 144.15.249.33


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A Rare Steed, Indeed!

by John B

Jim, according to the Kevin Marti numbers that Rich referenced earlier, there were 9 - 4 speed and 23 automatic convertibles made. I would have really liked to see that car in person! Neat.

Posted on Jun 9, 1999, 1:09 AM
from IP address 205.188.196.42


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