1971 429 Mustang Tech Forum

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Ram Air

by Rich

Ram Air, as it's called, is supposed to Presurize the Incomming Air as sort of a Supercharging affect??? But I said to myself," How can the air be forced into the engine, under pressure, when there's this huge Hole created by the Snorkel?" What I did was I placed a Sheetmetal plate between the Cleaner housing, and the Snokel to block it off. Then I plugged the water drain holes at the bottom of the Air Cleaner. The hose for the Flapper Valves is not connected to any thing, so the hood doors are open all the time. All of the air intake now takes place through the hood scoops. Don't know if this really helps though, but in theory, it should. (One good reason not to replace those broken Flapper Valves)

Posted on Jun 7, 1999, 7:45 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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Untitled

by Anonymous

I think the most important benefit of ram air comes from the cool air into the engine.

Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 8:38 AM
from IP address 199.107.144.2

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Cool Air , and it's Density

by RICH PAJZER

Cool air is denser, and will give you more power than warm air. All you have to do is install A/C in your car, then run a duct from your largest A/C Register, to you Air Cleaner snorkel. Make sure the blower motor is on high so there's enough CFM to feed the engine at high RPM's. You can also install a vacuum cleaner on your tailpipes, to gain more power, but that's another story, for a later date.

Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 7:35 PM
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For some reason, I do not see your car as a "stock" Boss 351.. N/M

by Grand Illusion...

:}

Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 7:58 PM
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It's far from stock, never said it was? n/m

by RICH

a

Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 8:17 PM
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Just joking-

by rich

Just joking about the A/C, and vacuum cleaner, but I have seen some weird things before.

Racers used to place ice cubes on there intake manifolds, in home made trays, and also put cubes in the bottoms of there air cleaners. In the early 70"s there was an aftermarker air cleaner sold that I beleave had it's own refridgeration unit in it. It was sold by Mail order places like Honest Charlies, and Gratiot, if you older guys remember those names?

Also how much heat do you think a Blacked-out hood sucks up from the Sun, and also how much engine heat(especially w/headers) the Ram Air Plenum Plate sucks up? I was thinking of trying to insulating the inside of my plate,(as long as it dosen't show), but dont think it would add anything? Things like this, and more, have been done many times on race cars. I'm always looking for little ways to go faster.


Posted on Jun 10, 1999, 11:16 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.48

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RAM IT

by

Rich:
I read an article that indicated that Ford had spent a great deal of time and money on the NASA type hood and had indicated that it was very efficient and functional when it came to RAM AIR efficiency. But as usual I cant find the damn article.(Some day I'll have all my S"""T together.)
But you do raise an intersting point about the snorkle bleeding off the ram air effect. But even with the snorkle open, the air at the carb will still have a higher positive pressure than an engine without any ram air.

Allen

Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 8:35 PM
from IP address 161.184.17.91

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design

by RICH

Like I said it's just a theory, based on reading 1000's of Hot Rod and Car Craft Mags. Chevy and dodge also had well designed systems as well. If your thinking that I'm say ing that the snokels shouldn't be there, well they also served there purpose. Remember these are Street Cars. The Ford thunderbolt had a "real" Ram Air System!


Posted on Jun 8, 1999, 8:58 PM
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C6 Shift points

by John B

Hello Group,
Can anyone tell me what RPM a stock 429 SCJ/C6 shifts at under wide open throttle conditions? My understanding from my trans guy is that I will have to set this by adjusting my vacuum modulator, however, I don't know what the production engine was set up to shift at. I'm guessing 5500 - 5700, but would appreciate the group's input. Thanks.

Posted on Jun 5, 1999, 12:21 AM
from IP address 152.163.207.58

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Govonor

by Rich Pajzer

Tell your "Trans Guy" that the Full Throttle Shift Point is controlled by the Govenor. Adjusting the Modulator will only change the Part throttle Shift Point by 3-4 MPH. The 428CJ and 429CJ C6's both used the same special govenor which created a higher than stock full throttle shift point, than the regular C6 govenor. As you can guess, this special govenor is a very hard part to locate. Stiffer springs can be put in the stock Govenor, to make it shift at a higher RPM, but it is a lot of work, and a lot of trial and error to get the correct springs/ shift point. The govenor uses two valves, which move outward by the centrifical force caused by the Gov spinning on the ouput shaft of the C6. The springs oppose this outward movement of the valves. So by using stiffer springs, or lightening the valves, you delay the rpm that the valves move to their full travel. It's an awfull lot of work..Maybe B&M Transmissions can help with this... They may have/ know just the correct springs to use?

Posted on Jun 6, 1999, 12:04 AM
from IP address 206.173.21.147

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Shop Manuals

by Rich Pajzer

I beleive the stock Shift Points are listed in the 71 Trans Manual...don't have mine handy at the moment.

Posted on Jun 6, 1999, 12:17 AM
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Shift Points

by

My 69 Mustang 428CJ C6 auto changed at 5600 on the dot , every time. I am sure the 429 C6 is the same.
Rich is right, the modulator only controles the shift points at low RPMs. The governer over rides the vacuume at high RPMs. It also controles what gear it will down shift to, at the RPM it is turning. My above Mustang would down shift to low gear at 40MPH and no more.It was geared 3.25. I don't remember the RPMs.
The shift points were as follows with a 3.25 rearend wide open. First to 55-60MPH @5600 Second to 95-100MPH. @5600 RPMs. It would spin in all three gears.


Posted on Jun 7, 1999, 12:07 AM
from IP address 206.154.3.82

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C6 Shift Kit

by Rich

Adding a good quality Shift Kit to the C6 will allow you to manually stay in any gear, at any RPM. It will also let you manually downshift to any gear, at any RPM.

I have a C6 in my Boss 351. I have modified a stock auto shifter so that it uses the 71 4-speed stick/Knob, and 71 rubber boot. The way that I did this, still retains the Auto shifters Detents, and Reverse Lockout, without the use of the Auto's Button. If any one wants to try this, I can try to post instructions, but it's kind of hard to discribe with just words, and it would be very long. (It looks like the stock Boss 4-speed is still there. Don't ask why I did this!)

Posted on Jun 7, 1999, 6:56 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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Thank you Rich and Jimmy (N/M)

by John B

(n/m)

Posted on Jun 9, 1999, 1:16 AM
from IP address 205.188.196.37

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CJ Oil Pumps

by Rich Pajzer

The 429 CJ used a special pump that was different from the standard 429-460 pumps. The CJ pump featured an internal dual entry to the pumps gears, supposedly to pass more oil. The standard pumps used a single entry, and will still work in a CJ. (I beleive the pick-up screens were also both different--in length?) Only some places carry the special pump. I know that Summit Racing has them, under their own Brand Name.

Posted on Jun 4, 1999, 7:23 PM
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CJ oil pumps

by

I ordered my SCJ engine kit from Summit. They list a S/CJ pump and a 429-460 pump.They list the pickup to be deeper for the S/CJ pan and high volume also. It is Summits own brand, but it came in a Melling box. It also came with the pickup tube and drive shaft. They also have TRW forged flat top pistons,
(which are Federal Mogul now),that are exactly the same as the factory pistons that came out of my SCJ.


Posted on Jun 4, 1999, 11:12 PM
from IP address 12.21.240.157

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oil pumps

by

Both the CJ and the SCJ engines used part # P/C9AZ-6600-A oil pump and # P/D0ZZ-6675-D baffled oil pan. Good to know we can get replacements. :>)


Posted on Jun 5, 1999, 11:52 PM
from IP address 161.184.16.44

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Pistons and pumping.

by Halowe

The CJ/SCJ pumps are available from several sources, but it is my understanding that they are all made by Mellings.

I don't think that the TRW replacement pistons are identical to the originals, IIRC. TRW made the original pistons for the CJ/SCJ, but the replacements dont' have the figure eight design skirts (which were a warranty problem, as they were prone to breakage).

Posted on Jun 15, 1999, 1:30 PM
from IP address 138.26.184.108

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Wrong about pistons.

by Halowe

The TRW replacements *do* have the original figure eight skirt design. Sorry for the bad info. It is the TRW forged high-compression 460 pistons that have the improved skirt.

This brings to our attention, though, that this is a real weak spot in our engines. I'd strongly consider using the 460 pistons and crank in any high performance application. Not only do you solve a known weakness, you get 31 more hidden cubic inches for just the cost of a good used 460 crankshaft (assuming that you have to buy new pistons, regardless).

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 11:51 AM
from IP address 138.26.184.108

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460 PISTONS

by Rich Pajzer

I beleive that you CAN'T run just the 460 piston in a 429, without ALSO using the 460 Crank, (as Halowe stated), due to a difference in the Compression Heights of the 429, and 460 pistons? So you need to add both the 460 pistons, and 460 crank at the same time. Just wanted to add this point.

Posted on Jun 16, 1999, 6:07 PM
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460 pistons

by

It is hard to get 460 pistons that are flat tops.
Most all of them come with a dish.
Years ago ,when we drag raced , we used 429 forged pistons with a 460 crank. You have to mill the tops down to 0 deck height, because they come out of the block above the deck. You also have to cut a valve relief in them. You can get a little more compression this way. It also makes them lighter.
I think the shorter stroke of the 429 makes them
rev better. They seem to have a better bore/ stroke combo., than the 460. But thats just my thoughts.

Posted on Jun 17, 1999, 10:22 PM
from IP address 208.246.1.142

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429 piston w/460 crank

by rich

Glad the 429 piston worked for you after it was milled down. One point I want to make on doing this though is that with the milled 429 piston sitting higher in the bore, your top piston ring is then higher then where it was ment to be. If the top of the cylinder bores contain any valve reliefs, your ring wont seal if it should come into contact with the relief area. Since it worked for you though, it seems like everything was ok? Just wanted to add that this should be checked, when doing this to an engine.

Posted on Jun 18, 1999, 9:43 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.78

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Pistons

by

Rich is correct, the top ring is further up.
This also gives you more compression. When you mill the tops to 0 deck height you don't end up cutting much. Remember this is all out racing stuff not for the daily driver. We also ran copper and or steel shim head gaskets, that were very thin ,to make more compression.
You must check valve clearance!!!
Another horsepower trick we used that works.
Fill up the bottom of the exaust port with weld
and blend in smooth. This takes out the hump so the exaust can come out straight. This smaller port on the (to large) CJ heads makes them flow more. This has been proven more than once on the flow bench and the track. MPG Head Service, (303-762-0022)
Englewood Colorado, makes a torque plate that does the same thing , It is a bolt on item. They also will send you a good video of how these torque plates improve horsepower and performance.

Posted on Jun 18, 1999, 7:44 PM
from IP address 206.154.3.89

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Thermostats

by John B

Based on what I can tell, our cars should take a 192 degree thermostat. Some friends of mine have suggested that this setting is unnecessarily high, that I should opt for either a 180 F or 160 F thermostat. Does anyone have a recommendation about the thermostat settings for our engines? Thanks.

Posted on Jun 3, 1999, 12:21 AM
from IP address 152.163.201.184

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I've always used 180's w/good results. n/m

by Halowe

x

Posted on Jun 3, 1999, 2:16 PM
from IP address 138.26.184.108

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As a side note>>>

by Halowe

my 1990 T-bird SC came with a 192 degree, and that is what I've continued to use (so as to not throw off the computer), but they have a high failure rate and open inconsistently. Don't know why this is. This includes the original factory thermostat and various brand aftermarket thermostats.

Posted on Jun 3, 1999, 2:19 PM
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160 vs 180

by Rich Pajzer

Some people have run as low as 160, but I have a chart that shows running below 180 causes engine bores to wear more, about a few thou more. I run a 180. Just a thought.

Posted on Jun 3, 1999, 8:12 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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180

by John B

Thanks Hayes and Rich - I'll go with the 180!

Posted on Jun 5, 1999, 12:11 AM
from IP address 152.163.207.83

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Oh, Nuts

by Rich

On my earlier post were I inquired on the gold Front hood molding nuts, now I've been told by 2 people that have a NOS moulding for sale, that the nuts are black. Can anyone confirm this, as I'm redoing the hood and need to know. I have a black and white close -up picture of a very low milege hood (B.Perkins car), and the nuts look very light colored. This is going to drive me bananas, or nuts, I can't decide. (Mine were all rusty) THANKS

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 10:15 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.68

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Untitled

by Rich Pajzer

Now I'm guessing that an original hood moulding used gold nuts, and that maybe a replacement moulding came with black nuts?

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 7:16 PM
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Color

by John B

Rich, I tried to help you out on this - tonight I raised the hood of my car to see what color the nuts were. Unfortunately, they were rusty with some black grease. I couldn't really see any original coating. I also have a spare hood, which I checked. The molding/nuts were missing. Sorry.

Posted on Jun 3, 1999, 12:16 AM
from IP address 152.163.201.184

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Exhaust Systems

by John B

What diameter exhaust systems should our cars have? I've seen 2 1/4" listed as replacement in some catalogs. Seems like a big block would have had bigger. Thanks.

Posted on May 29, 1999, 11:22 PM
from IP address 205.188.197.39

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size

by rich pajzer

The 351 and 429 used the same dual pipe/muffler system, and they were all 2 1/4", except for the Tailpipes, they were only 2". The "H" pipes were unique to each engine, and they were also 2 1/4".

Posted on May 30, 1999, 9:04 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.58

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429 H pipe size

by

My orginal 429 SCJ H pipe is 2.500 O.D. and reduces to
2.250 O.D. after the H pipe.
ID= Inside Dia. OD= outside Dia.

Posted on Jun 1, 1999, 10:40 PM
from IP address 206.154.3.101

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Exhaust System

by John B

Thanks Rich and Jimmy.

Posted on Jun 1, 1999, 11:00 PM
from IP address 152.163.213.58

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Too Bad

by Rich

Too bad it started at 2.5 and than slowly got smaller as it went back...Thanks Jim.

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 9:36 AM
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Windshields

by RICH PAJZER

A 71-73 Hardtop Cougars windshield fits in a 71-73 Mustang fastback, but a Mustang Hardtops windshield wont fit in a Fastback. Boy, the things Ford did to confuse us!

Posted on May 28, 1999, 6:39 PM
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windshields

by Mark

Do you what exactly is the difference between the two types of windshields? The reason I'm asking is because my replacement windshield never did fit right. When I installed it onto the seal, it was about .125 inch off on the curvature. I just pushed on the windshield more where it was too high and it sealed off. About a year later it cracked. I was just wondering if maybe I had the wrong windshield.

Thanks
mark

Posted on Jun 1, 1999, 2:39 PM
from IP address 199.107.144.2

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Cant say

by Rich

Can't say what the difference is? Could be length, height, or it's shape. I also broke one the day after putting it in. The glass wouldn't fit tightly at one of the top corners, so I kept pushing on it untill it broke. May glass was the correct one though, as I got both from a glass shop, and they showed me the numbers in their book. I remember reading an old article that Mustang monthly did on Assembly Line stories. It said that on 71-73's the workers had to sometimes use sledge hammers on the windshield frames, before setting the glass, to get the glass to fit properly.

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 10:03 AM
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POWER SEATS

by RICH PAJZER

The Optional 71-73 Cougar Power Drivers Seat Track will bolt right in place of the 71-73 Mustang Manual Tracks. (Both L&R mustang seats.)

Posted on May 28, 1999, 6:30 PM
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Final Call For Questions For the 429 Registry

by

Just a reminder - please E-mail me any questions you would like to ask Scotty Scothorn of the 429 Registry (reference my earlier post) by tomorrow night. At that point, I'll put them together. If there are any questions we haven't covered yet in the forum, or something you would like more detail about, this would be a good opportunity. Please give it some thought and let me know if you think of any. Thanks!

Posted on May 27, 1999, 11:00 PM
from IP address 152.163.207.82

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Rear Hood Chrome

by RICH

According to the MPC, 71's used a bright snap -on moulding at the REAR of the hood and fenders. These moldings were deleted near the end of 71. Dont have the cut-off date at the moment. I once found this same moulding on a 71 Cougar, which I added for a while, to my 72 Cougar. I really dont think this moulding would look good on say a 71 Mach 1 though? Just making another 71 point w/ my 2 cents added.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 6:44 PM
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Moulding

by

Rich, just curious - which Mustangs had this moulding? Was it primarily used on Grande/Hardtop/Convertible? I will have to watch for it and wanted to know which cars had it. Thanks.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 11:04 PM
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Which ones?

by rich

All the MPC say's is 71 Mustang before 2/1/71, except Boss 302 (really means Boss 351). "From 2/1/71-Not Required" The number listed for the hood moulding is D1ZZ-16B918-A. The fender mouldings are seperate parts.


Posted on May 28, 1999, 8:42 AM
from IP address 209.240.197.26

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hood and fender trim

by Jim Pletl

I have a used set of these pieces and one or two NOS pieces (those for the fenders). They are a very light metal (aluminum?) and may be anodized. I have looked at hundreds of 71-73 Mustangs in salvage yards and have only seen these pieces once or twice. I also don't recall seeing them on show cars. I would suspect that they were not available on Mach I's, particularly those with blacked-out hoods.

Posted on May 28, 1999, 1:05 PM
from IP address 209.96.156.196

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Spare Tire Holdown

by RICH

Sorry for all the posts, but just trying to pass along some info, and find out about some other 71's. My car has the Space Saver Spare, which is mounted to the far right side of the trunk, on the space saver mount. My car also has the non-space saver mount located in the foward section of the trunk. It was built with both mounts. I have only been able to check this on one other car, and it also had both mounts. This is on a car with the Space Saver, and WITHOUT the Folddown Seat. Can anyone verify this double mount instalation for me? I was going to remove the secound mount, thinking it was a factory mistake. Thanks.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 6:17 PM
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Space saver

by

My car has both hold down places. I think all of the Mustangs came with the full size holder and the space savers were just added. I changed over a 71 to a fold down seat a few months ago. It had a factory notch cut in the frame work to go around the full size hold down. I also think most all cars that came with 15" wheels had the space saver.

Posted on May 30, 1999, 2:39 PM
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Paint n Shield

by RICH

The 71-72 Body Assembly Manual shows that on light colored hoods, the underside of the hoods were painted black, near the widshield end. This was done to blend the underside of the hood, with the black on the Cowl Panel. Can't tell if this was for 71, or for 72, or both. I have not ever seen a 71-73 Mustang with this black underside paint. I dont think any cars came with this??, but on Saturday I plain to add it while painting my hood. My hood top is blacked-out, and when looking forward through the windshield, it always looked funny with the Body Color showing under the hood. Has anyone ever seen the bottom blacked-out? What do you think about adding this? My car has many changes to it, so I'm not 100% concerned with being original.

The 71-72 Manual also shows a plastic Alternator Splash Sheild for 6-Cyl, and 429's. The shield is attached to the passenger side frame rail, right where the front Sway bar bushing bracket is located. This sheild is also not in the MPC. Do any of your car have this? Not sure if it was ever used?

Posted on May 27, 1999, 5:09 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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Hood Paint/Splash Shield Survey

by John B

Rich, per your request, I checked under my hood tonight - it is painted body color in the area you were asking about. Regarding the alternator shield, my car does not have one.

Posted on Jun 3, 1999, 12:25 AM
from IP address 152.163.201.184

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Shifter Boot Plate

by RICH PAJZER

Found a black plastic square plate with a hole in it that matches the shape of the 4-speed Shifter Boot. I guess this plate went over the boot, as it fit's perfectly over my boot, and inside of my console. The plate had no numbers on it, and is not in the MPC. I could tell it was original though, as it's not home made. Anybody else have this plate?

Posted on May 26, 1999, 8:01 PM
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I HaveOne

by Nigelj

I have one but thought it might be home made, I took a second look at it and am still unsure if it could be original. Mine also has no number, is shiny on the inside & has a textured surface on the top. If mine is home made though, whoever made it had a very steady hand when cutting it out. Rich could you describe yours in a little more detail please.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 7:12 AM
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Nigelj

by Anonymous

Mine is the same as you discribed. Got mine out of a 3-speed car, so I wasn't sure if it was still correct for my car. thanks

Posted on May 27, 1999, 8:51 AM
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shifter boot

by Jim Pletl

I have one of these plates, which matches your description exactly. This is a rare item to find at parts shows, and it is usually full of holes resulting from the non-factory approaches taken by previous owners when installing consoles and shifter boots. Hang on to it!

Posted on May 27, 1999, 7:15 AM
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Safe place

by Nigelj

Thanks Jim I was so sure it was home made(but well made)it has been thrown in a corner, But now it is in a very safe place.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 7:35 AM
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forgot my name

by rich

Like I said , I found my Shifter Plate in a 3-speed, so this my also be the place to get them.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 8:54 AM
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Early `71 Consoles

by RICH PAJZER

I have seen pictures of very early `71 Full Consoles that had a wood grain panel over the hump area around the clock. This part is not in my MPC. Karl Baker, who used to sell 71-73 parts in Calf; told me this wood grain panel was a metal plate, and was very, very, rare. Has anyone got this, or seen of it?

Posted on May 26, 1999, 7:52 PM
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Wood grain Console

by

Ever see the 71 Mustang Brochure? (check my spelling on that) It showes the wood grain console
like the 69-70s had. I do not think they ever put it in production though. It would be easy to make one. 3M has the wood grain for many uses. Re; Dodge minivans and Jeep Grand. I thought about wood graning a console a few years ago but decided to stay orginal.

Posted on May 30, 1999, 2:51 PM
from IP address 12.21.242.41

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Console Tip/Trick

by

I found some chrome pin stripe at Advance Auto,Very cheep. You can put it on your console where the chrome ridges have turned white.
Remove the top cover around the shifter by taking out 2 screws at the ash tray. If the black paint is flaking, rub it with fine steel wool and get it all off. then paint the whole thing with Krylon Semi Flat paint. Take the chrome pin striping and put it on the top of the flat ridges. You can't make turns only straight runs. Cut it with a razor blade at the corners and splice it.
Then trim around the full length of it with a razor blade using the sides of the ridge as a guide. It will look brand new. I tryed this on the instrument cluster, but it won't work there . It won't make any turns only straight lines.

Posted on May 30, 1999, 3:13 PM
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Untitled

by Jim Gates

This same stuff (I think)is sold in sheets at model supply stores. I was going to try it on mine if I ever get the time. IIRC its about $5.00 for a couple of sheets about half the size of a sheet of paper.

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 3:34 PM
from IP address 144.15.249.33

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COUPLE MORE

by RICH PAJZER

Ram Air Hoods used hinge springs made from coiled "flat" wire. Non-Ram Hoods used springs made from coiled "round" wire. (Good to know if swapping hoods!!)

Cars that came with rear spoilers from the factory used heavier Torsion Bars in the trunk. Non-Spoiled car used the standard Torsion bars. (Don't know how to ID the difference between the two different bars.....might be the bars diameter???) I have added rear spoilers to cars, with out swapping torsion bars...trunk still pops up, when opened, with added weight of new spoiler. (The bars tension is adjustable.)

Posted on May 26, 1999, 7:16 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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alternator pulley

by Jim Pletl

I would like to know what the correct diameter is for a '71 429 Mustang alternator pulley should be. The MPC says that it should be 3.05", but everyone I have talked to says it is much bigger than other cars. Is it possible that this is a misprint, and that it is actually 3.5"? Can anyone compare theirs (those that can confirm that it is correct) to these numbers for confirmation of the MPC information? Thanks.

Posted on May 26, 1999, 3:46 PM
from IP address 209.96.156.196

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MPC

by RICH PAJZER

As Mr. F pointed out a while back, the parts listed in the MPC are sometimes "Replacement Parts", and may not be the actual part that came on your car.

Posted on May 26, 1999, 4:59 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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Alt Pulley

by John B

Jim, my alternator pulley is 3.5". Based on a recent discussion with the original owner of my car (I am the 2nd owner), he indicated that I had the original Alternator/Powersteering. This clashes with the MPC's 3.05".

Posted on May 27, 1999, 12:44 AM
from IP address 152.163.201.196

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pulley

by Jim Pletl

John, I just purchased what I believe to be an original alternator from an 429 CJ Mustang. It's pulley is 3.5" in diameter, which agrees with your measurement. Can anybody else confirm John's and my observations?

Posted on May 27, 1999, 7:19 AM
from IP address 209.96.156.196

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pulley number

by rich

haven't checked the MPC, but whats the number stamped on your pulleys? the pulley could be the same one used on a Boss 351. I'll be able to check this, and if so will let you know. There are more boss 351 parts floating around than there are for a CJ, even though the number still would ID the pulley.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 9:01 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.78

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pulley number

by rich

haven't checked the MPC, but whats the number stamped on your pulleys? the pulley could be the same one used on a Boss 351. I'll be able to check this, and if so will let you know. There are more boss 351 parts floating around than there are for a CJ, even though the number still would ID the pulley.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 10:08 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.58

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Part #

by John B

Rich, I recently had my pully off to clean it up. Unfortunately, I was not able to find a part number on it.

Posted on May 27, 1999, 8:59 PM
from IP address 205.188.200.36

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pulley

by rich

The Boss 351 Pulley is stamped D1ZF-10A352-A1A on the front. I don't have one to measure, but I would say it was also 3.5" I have a real close -up picture of one.(I now use the large Hi-Po pulley)

Posted on May 28, 1999, 8:51 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.48

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Alt pulleys see page 4

by

Check out page 4 of this forum. We talked about alt pulleys and part numbers and sizes, with Mr F.
It was about March 8-13.

Posted on May 30, 1999, 2:29 PM
from IP address 12.21.242.41

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Alt Pulleys see page 5 not 4

by

see page 5 insted of page 4 Date of March 8-13.

Posted on May 30, 1999, 3:38 PM
from IP address 12.21.242.41

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3.50 Dia.

by Rich Pajzer

Johh B, and "others" have claimed the 429 pulley to be 3.50". I have determined that it also is 3.50, the same as a Boss 351, marked D1ZF10A352A1A, which can be seen on a Boss 351 in the Aug:`94 M M. I have read page 5 of the Forum, and see that the MPC is quouted. As I stated ealier, the MPC only lists the replacemwnt part. Sometimes the Replacement Part just happens to be the original part, and sometimes it isn't. One thing I know is that the Hi-Po, the Boss 302, and Boss 429 all used the same numbered C5 Hi-Po Pully that was 4" dia. I know this from the Engine Detail Articles written by Bob Perkins, and other pictures/cars I have seen. But the MPC dosen't even list this 4" pulley for 69-70 Bosses!?! It list something else. One thing the MPC does list is the other D1, 3.05 pulley being used all the way back to 1965, depending on the Amp Rating of the Alt. How can a 71 pulley be used in 65,66, 67,68,ect? Because it's being used as a replacement part in those applications. I feel this 3.05 pulley is also listed as a replacement for the 351 and 429, and is not the original pulley.

Posted on May 31, 1999, 11:28 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.88

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Alt pulleys Top Secret Trick

by

Did you know that Ford alt. pulleys are the same as GM Delco alt pulleys, in the late 60s-70s. Since you can go to K Mart or anywhere and buy GM junk,sometimes they can be easier to find. But don't let anybody see you.

Posted on Jun 1, 1999, 10:21 PM
from IP address 206.154.3.101

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Some `71 "Points"

by rich pajzer

71's built before 4/2/71 used the small hole Magnum, with the flat center cap, and C5ZZ Chrome nut,(Same nut used on 69-70 Boss 302, and '70 Boss 429). After 4/2/71, the large hole wheel was used with the taller center cap, and taller chrome nut C4GY-A. (Shelby Parts of Wisconsin sell a nice Stainless Steel version of the C4GY-A nuts. The C4GY-A nut was also used as the "Ford Service Nut", for 69-72 Magnums, but is not original for the earlier 71 models.)

Mustangs built before 6/16/71 use a center lift handle on the seat backs. 72-73 used a side lift handle on the seat backs.

Mustangs built before 6/1/71 used plastic fender shields at the top of each fender, near the windshield area. 72-73 did not use these.

71's used a hex shaped wiper Knob. The 72-73 knob was round.

Most 71's used 3 of the black metal clips that are positioned against the side glass. The 3rd clip was used on the inside of the door glass, close to the area of the front outer clip. The other 2 clips were on the outside of the glass. I have seen this on 71 Fastbacks. 72-73 only used the 2 outer clips.

In 71, the Heater Control Panel is marked "HEAT". In 72-73 it was changed to "FLOOR". (I might have this one backwards, cant run out and check now.)

71 also used 2 different dome lights, but they both looked the same on the ouside. The only difference was the internal shape, and the way the 2 lens snapped on.

Posted on May 26, 1999, 10:11 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.28

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knob

by rich pajzer

the Wiper Knob shape may also be backwards, but my point is still there. To busy to check on little things, sorry.

Posted on May 26, 1999, 10:26 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.88

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Wiper knob

by

I allways thought the intermintent wipers had flat sided knobs and the 2 speed had round knobs.

Posted on May 30, 1999, 3:32 PM
from IP address 12.21.242.41

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Jimmy-Knobs

by Rich

I thought the same thing as Jim, until I checked the MPC. Besides, one knob is marked D1, and the other is marked D2. This is on the knob itself, and also listed in the book, as 2 different years?

Posted on May 31, 1999, 9:00 PM
from IP address 209.240.197.26

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Not sure

by Rich

Not so sure about what I stated about the knobs. When searching the junk yards, I always had to turn the knob to see if a car had the
delay type wipers, not look at the shape of the knob? I was replacing my knob, and though I'd look it up, as I have both types of knobs. I have the delay in the car now. Maybe the Parts Book is wrong again. I'll have to check this on other cars at some shows. I also alway thought the hex knob was for the delay system? All the delay systems I have came out of 72's, (mostly Cougars) as the black boxes are stamped D2, so I'm really not sure which is the correct knob to use.

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 9:50 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.68

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By the way, about those clips

by Mark

Are those clips supposed to hold the glass in a little more postitively than the weatherstriping? At speed above about 90mph the upper part of my windows start pulling outward. Does anyone have this problem?

Thanks
Mark

Posted on May 26, 1999, 10:53 AM
from IP address 199.107.144.2

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Good Question?

by rich pajzer

I guess that's what the clips were for, to hold the glass against the weatherstrip, maybe to also keep down the air noise at speed? You might be able to bend them just a little, but their brittle, so be carfull, - your call. I guess the 72-73's were too slow, and only required 2 clips!!!! HA

Posted on May 26, 1999, 11:12 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.98

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In "FAMOUS" Quadrajet 429cj Ford?? carb...

by mac1971

This applies to those of you have the "cj" version of our engine. I know that the quadrajet has an unusually small float bowl... If my car sits for a few days without starting it, there is no fuel in the carb there by requiring me to turn the engine over until the mechanical fuel pump can supply fuel to the "bowl"... Have others with the "cj" engine and quadrajet carb had this problem, and have you come up with any reasonable solutions to this problem? Just thought I would see what others are doing in this regard... Thanks.

Posted on May 25, 1999, 9:28 PM
from IP address 209.161.244.23

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carb

by rich pajzer


I have seen this problem a lot on the Quadrajet. When the car sits for a while, the gas get siphoned back down through the fuel line. I also seem to recall that there might be an internal plug that may leak gas into the manifold, draining the fuel bowl? You might be able to disconnect the line at the pump, put a cup there, and wait a day or two, to see if any siphoning is taking place? Just an idea.

Posted on May 26, 1999, 9:15 AM
from IP address 209.240.197.26

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Qudrajet or Quadratrash? Look on Olds.

by

Look on some 70s Olds. and Cadies. I think you will find they use almost the same Quadrajet as the CJs did. Look for the fuel filter in the front insted of in the side. This is a lot cheeper than buying one for a Mustang.

Posted on May 30, 1999, 3:24 PM
from IP address 12.21.242.41

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Carb Your Enthusiasm

by Jim Gates

Jimmy,
I think that you will want to look for quadrajets off of Buicks. The Oldsmobile versions have the fuel inlet facing the passenger side where the fuel pump is located. If I'm not mistaken, all of the Chev versions are the same way as the Olds.

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 3:37 PM
from IP address 144.15.249.33

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GM Carbs N C6

by Rich Pajzer

These GM Carbs won't have the Ford Kickdown Lever, so I'm guessing this will only work with a Standard Trans?

Posted on Jun 2, 1999, 7:13 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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Rod Rage

by Jim Gates

Thanks Rich, I thought about this same thing just after I hit the send button. The GM versions don't necessarily even work well when swapped within the same division of GM. I ran into this problem getting the throttle rod on my 65 4-4-2 to work with the carb from a 67 4-4-2. Go figure.

Posted on Jun 4, 1999, 9:35 AM
from IP address 144.15.249.33

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Dry bowl

by

I too had the same problem.
The fix for me was found in the fuel inlet valve and stem assembly. A small seal had let go after 25 yrs of use. (imagine that).
Despite some peoples fear and misunderstanding of these carbs, they actually work very well.

Good luck on your fix.

Allen

Posted on Jun 7, 1999, 11:11 AM
from IP address 161.184.16.47

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Valve Cover Bolts

by John B

Can anyone tell me about the finish of the bolts used for our Aluminum valve covers? I guess there's at least three possibilities - 1) phos & oil 2) painted ford blue like the engine 3) Chrome 4) Other? It's time for me to get these and I'd like to get the right ones. Thanks. P.S. AMK does not appear to sell these in their kit for our engine (at least in my catalog, which is a year old).

Posted on May 24, 1999, 10:28 PM
from IP address 205.188.197.47

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Bolts

by

John,
The valve cover bolts on my 71 CJ Ranchero are a Gold Yellow color.
Not sure which plating this would be.
AMK does not have the proper bolts in his engine kit. the ones he sends are Boss 302/351 valve cover bolts.(at least in my kit anyways).
How about any input on the type of clips that are used to hold the wiring harness. mine are sheet metal that go under the valve cover bolts.
Anyone have the same or Different?



Posted on May 25, 1999, 12:00 AM
from IP address 152.163.207.84

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Finishes, bolts, and clips - oh, my! ;-)

by Mr F

The valve cover bolts on my 71 CJ Ranchero are a Gold Yellow color. Not sure which plating this would be.

That sounds like badly oxidized (from age and heat) gold dichromate, but the NOS ones I've seen were all zinc coated.  And the MPC entry calls for zincplate, all the way back to 1970.

How about any input on the type of clips that are used to hold the wiring harness. mine are sheet metal that go under the valve cover bolts. Anyone have the same or Different?original specs.

If you mean a thin metal "fishhook" piece, with about half its length dipped in rubber, that's the one.  And, should anyone here be that fussy, I have a very few of these NOS.  They're not flawless, but this cheap part wasn't meant to have a diamond-like finish.   ;-)
---
Mr F



Posted on May 25, 1999, 7:51 PM
from IP address 209.71.52.51

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CLIPS

by RICH PAJZER

Engines with blue valve covers used blue "sheet metal" clips, on the Engine Wire Harness, as the clips were installed before the engines were painted. On a car like a Boss 351 that used aluminum covers, the clips were painted black first, then installed. Can't say if a CJ was the same as this? The rubber dipped "J" Clip was used on only one of the front pass. side cover bolts to hold the wires for the Rev Limiter. This J clip was also used on early 289's, on their Oil Pressure Sender Wire, and is listed in most Mustang Catalogs as "Oil Pressure J Clip". The Boss 302, and Boss 351 both used a Silver colored (zinc) bolt with there aluminum covers. I dont see why the CJ would be any different??????

Posted on May 25, 1999, 8:46 PM
from IP address 38.162.110.2

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Intake Nipple

by

What about the nipple that runs out of the intake to the water pump? Mine is missing. I thought about tapping and thredding one in but is there a way to reinstall an original? Does anyone know where to find one? If I screw one in, would I be marked off on points (if I ever get it finished) when the car is judged?

Posted on May 24, 1999, 7:52 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.148

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Vacuum Port

by John B

Bob, if I understand your message, you are asking about the vacuum port towards the front of the intake manifold? In the case of my engine, this appears to be a factory tapped hole. Is yours not tapped, possibly set up for a press in type nipple? Please let me know. Thanks.

Posted on May 24, 1999, 10:23 PM
from IP address 205.188.197.47

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Water Pump By-Pass hose Nipple?

by

John,
I think that Bob is referring to the nipple for the short hose that goes in between the intake and the water pump.
If that is the case you can get it from Ford. It takes a good Parts Guy to find it. The Nipple is a "press fit" If you have trouble getting it out I have found a large diameter screw extractor with the end ground off, so it won't bottom out slipped inside the corroded nipple will spin it right out.
Hope this helps.





Posted on May 25, 1999, 12:11 AM
from IP address 152.163.207.58

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So That's what you call it

by

I am referring to the by pass nipple.
Thanks for the clarification.

Posted on May 25, 1999, 11:39 AM
from IP address 209.240.200.68

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Hose N Clamps

by Rich Pajzer

The By-Pass Hose, and it's clamps were installed before the engines were painted, so these parts should be Ford blue.

Posted on May 31, 1999, 11:40 PM
from IP address 209.240.200.88

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