(Login dgcantrell) HyperScale Forums from IP address 22.214.171.124
Just curious... What was wrong with the nose on this kit? I hear it was too short. Is it fixable with a simple slice and splice? I know there's a bunch of other issues with the kit but I'm just tossing around a few ideas in my head for a What-if project.
Christian A. (Login tourist51) HyperScale Forums 126.96.36.199
Re: Revell 1/32 P-51B question..
August 15 2010, 11:48 PM
I don't have the Revell kit but based on all the photos I've seen the nose is too bulgy, the shape is off.
As mentioned above the length may also be wrong.
The best thing to do is to compare it to photos and see what you think.
You can also contact Charles Neely at the P-51 SIG forums and buy a set of his Mustang drawings, they are the most accurate on the market.
John Hassall (Login madtroll) HyperScale Forums 188.8.131.52
Revell P51B nose issues
August 16 2010, 4:17 AM
I have the most recent issue of this. IIRC correctly the nose from the cockpit forward is noticeably OFF. (ie even I can see it)
My solution was to purchase the Trumpeter P51B US markings kit as it comes with a complete duplicate sprue of fuselage halves (in clear). As far as I know the main issue with the trumpeter kit is the cockpit interior and I look forward to scratching and detailing a new one. I can live with or fix the rest.
The trump nose is a bit off too but is fixable with a spot of filler/sanding.
Whether the kit bash of Revell wings and Trump fuselage is simple or complex I havent yet checked (the kits are in different stashes...so to speak) it may be an expensive solution but at the time I had a reasonable disposable income.
The other way is to sacrifice a P51D kit (which could be just as expensive) or I believe someone does/did a complete resin correction set??
Thomas Lund (Login Thomas_Lund) HyperScale Forums 184.108.40.206
August 16 2010, 5:02 AM
A) tell me what/where that spot of filler is due to correct the trump 51B?
B) let me know when you check the Revell wing + trump spare fuselage fit? I have been eyeing that spare fuse and thinking about doing that revell trick.
More expensive than using a hase D... well you get two kits and not one, so... In any case I already have the trump B.
thomas (at) coolpartners.dk
This message has been edited by Thomas_Lund from IP address 220.127.116.11 on Aug 16, 2010 5:03 AM
There was a build article in in one of those confusingly similarly named UK model mags MAI or MAM ?. (The model was on the cover) in it the reviewer did some refining of the nose contours along the upper cowl.
I'll see if I can dig that copy out and scan and send the article if you like. let me know along with an addy.
If I can get the two 1/32 kits in one spot some day I'll run a check on fit.
bob in Maine (Login gingerbob) HyperScale Forums 18.104.22.168
Well let's see...
August 16 2010, 6:01 AM
I built this kit when I was about 10, and I didn't at the time see anything wrong.
My now 35 year old memory (that particular kit didn't survive terribly long) doesn't bring up any shape issues. But then I can remember the box art better than I can remember the actual model. Shangri-la, of course!
I also had the Bob Hoover D in garish yellow plastic (which meant I didn't have to paint it- airbrush? What's an airbrush? Oh, that's what you paint far-out vans with!) and I believe that the main landing gear of both gradually moved farther and farther forward. Maybe it was the liberal dose of Testor's lemon-scented glue I stuck them on with...
James Caldwell (Login PRILLER13) HyperScale Forums 22.214.171.124
Best to combine a Hasegawa D with Revell B
August 16 2010, 8:11 AM
Dave, I have a project (now back in the box that is going to be finished someday), but I came to the conclusion that there is just too much wrong with the Revell kit to try to make an accurate B. The best thing to do is to use most of the airframe of a Hasegawa D kit, then graft the fuselage spine from the Revell B on to make the razorback. You will also have to reduce the angle of the leading edge of the wings where that blends into the fuselage, but that isn't that hard. You could leave the fillet in place in front of the vert stab on the Hasegawa kit if you wanted to make a C version as well. I just removed the fillet and used some plastic and putty to make a correct vert stab on the Hasegawa kit.
There also was a feature in Fine Scale Modeler magazine several years ago showing the Hasegawa converted to a B by making a clear acrylic spine by vaccuforming and grafting that in. That made for a nice transition from the glass areas to the metal skin with no gaps to fill. I have that issue in my collectin and could scan that and email it, if ya want. Let me know.
I don't know why people think the Revell kit is so good
August 16 2010, 8:30 AM
It is not... It's one of the worst Mustang kits in any scale. While many of the older Revell 1/32 kits were pretty good (P-40, Spitfire, Wildcat, etc.) the Mustang is just way off. Everything is noticably off to the eye. No need for drawings to compare this one too. The nose, prop, proportions, detailing, landing gear, etc. are all off. I'm not sure you can really fix the kit or if it would be worth it. As poor as the Trumpeter B kit is, every aspect of the Trumpeter kit is still vastly better than the Revell kit.
Max Bryant (Login nametaken) HyperScale Forums 126.96.36.199
I know why
August 16 2010, 3:44 PM
I think it has to do with the Box art. If you are in the age bracket most of us are then you built the boxing with Shangri La on the cover. I am gonna go out on a limb here and say. One of the best if not THE Best box art ever! So when we were all young boys you took one look at that awesome box and thought the kit inside was equally awesome!
This is why I am still lamenting how close the 21st Century P-51B was and then Pffttt!
Lee Griffin (Login leegee_77) HyperScale Forums 188.8.131.52
See for yourself.... Pics...
August 16 2010, 10:15 AM
Here is Revell P-51B completed by a few of our club members as a club project for one of our Tuskegee airmen friends. Photos were taken by Lee Kolosna. The shape issues in the nose area are very apparent when compared to the real thing: Spinner is too long. Intake is too deep, which throws off the curve from the wing leading edge to the nose. The whole nose is too round and doesn't have the characteristic flat side and top panels that transition into the round spinner of the real thing.
Included are a couple of photos of real P-51Bs for comparison.
Posted for informational purposes, not to disparage a classic kit of which I have fond memories. And, oh, that box art...
I have that kit. I've had it since the mid-1970s. Obviously, I've built other things instead. I have much more recently purchased aftermarket decals for it and a vac-form Malcolm hood. I will eventually build it. I've looked at it more recently, and the biggest thing you notice is that the nose is narrow, more like an Allison-engined Mustang. I haven't gone past that for accuracy issues. I've heard of people grafting on the Hasegawa P-51D nose to correct the narrow nose issue.
"If a tree fell in the forest, would it sue?"
G. Boyd (Login Confido) HyperScale Forums 184.108.40.206
Or the built-up 21st Century Toys version.
August 16 2010, 1:26 PM
You can dismantle the old 21st Century Toys P-51B, and bash it with other kits or fix. I did this with Shangri La; I bought the TD 1/32 diamond tread wheels and reworked the gear. It is the best alternative IMHO.
This message has been edited by Confido from IP address 220.127.116.11 on Aug 16, 2010 1:27 PM
I've always thought that would make a pleasing-looking airplane. Can I plead for a small technical detail? A real version of this 'what-if' would almost certainly include a fuselage extension -- increasing the span by a factor of almost 1.5 without lengthening the tail would make for one squirrely airplane.
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