Which has a more accurate outline Revell Corsair or 21st Century Corsair kit.
March 15 2012 at 9:57 AM
(Login jimmie58) HyperScale Forums from IP address 184.108.40.206
I have a couple of Revell and 21st Century 1/32 scale Corsair kits in my stash. Which has the most accurate outline and is the best option for super detailing a 1/32 scale Corsair model. I have some aftermarket stuff in my stash.
I'm not only interest in the main F4U1 version but the Birdcage version as well as a F2 super Corsair Thompson Trophy versions.
21st Century has the same shape problems as the Trumpeter kit
March 15 2012, 2:42 PM
The worst one being the undersized, anemic cowling. On the upside, the cowl flaps on the 21st Century kit are the best of the three and can be fit to the Revell cowling with little effort.
I recently finished a 1/32 Corsair using the Trumpeter kit with the Revell cowling and 2st Century cowl flaps and to my eye it looked spot on. The Revell cowl has a slightly larger diameter, but with the open flaps it was pretty easy to hide the extra dimension underneath. I sawed apart the 21st Century cowl ring at the bottom and spread it slightly to fit the contours of the Revell part. Again, the sliver of extra space between the to lower flaps is pretty unnoticeable. Should work as well on the 21st Century molds.
Also worth noting the Eduard photoetch sets designed for the Trumpeter kit fit the 21st Century molds pretty well. I vote for using the 21st century kit with the Revell cowl (and maybe canopy/windscreen) and as much aftermarket as your budget allows.
Or just wait for the 1/32 Tamiya kit to come out. I figure if I keep saying that it is bound to come true.
David Hansen (Login Falcon50EX) HyperScale Forums 220.127.116.11
Revell Corsair- Just my observations...
March 15 2012, 3:09 PM
James, my data is based on a combination of sources: Rodney Williams, Don Fenton, Jim Sullivan, Allan Peters, and the Tamiya F4U Corsair kit in 1/48th scale.
The Revell F4U followed the F4F kit. IMHO it was not a worthy successor. Several areas of sloppy research and mistakes made when creating the molds.
Length: Pretty good actually. Working form Navy Maintenance drawings the fuselage is slightly short (maybe 1/16") in the tail in the region of the rudder post area.
Based on comments posted over on LSP, the cowling seems to be pretty good, the nose bowl having a proper radius and opening diameter. Panel line delineating the nose bowl from the cylindrical segment is misplaced, being a bit further forward than it should be.
Panel lines on fuselage from the pilots armored bulkhead forward are a bunch of guesswork and should not be trusted.
Kick step on fwd R/H fuselage is spring loaded and should be flush. Mislocated too far forward on fuselage. Easily fixed.
Wings: Slightly broad in chord but Revell compensated by making them slightly long in span. Machine gun muzzle ports located too far inboard. The wing may not have enough ribs, and the machine gun access doors don't project forward far enough. Location for wing fold support struts misplaced on wing and fuselage.
When built per instructions, right hand wing has about 5 degrees more dihedral than left wing. Don't believe me? i'll send you the pictures of what i did to fix it.
Wheel wells misplaced about .100 inches too far aft. Inboard gear doors should project forward and cross the plane of the wing spar. Rear wall needs to be moved forward and forward edge of opening needs to be re-cut.
Flap fairings missing. Recessed panel lines delineating flaps on the inboard segments asymmetrical.
Mount for main landing gear struts may be too far aft, too close to wing spar. Overall shape of "spade" door covering upper landing gear struts much better than 21st Century or Trumpeter, perhaps slightly undersized. Struts themselves are totally wacked and best replaced from scratch. Wheels would look more accurate on a Marx BigWheel.
Horizontal stabilizers: This is the weird one. Planform appears to be in the ballpark, but elevator hinge line sweeps forward; this should in fact be perpendicular to aircraft centerline. Problem MAY be that mating surface of stabilizer has incorrect taper designed in. a wedge to space the leading edge further away from the fuselage would fix this.
Oil Cooler Inlets: very simplified; not sure if the proportions are correct. flap exits for oil cooler on wing undersides molded as a solid block; would require opening-out and re-building.
Intercooler flap: Wrong proportions. I reverse engineered a proper intercooler flap by taking measurements from the Tamiya kit and converting to 1/32nd scale. Got it right on the second try.
Backfire Poppet Valves: Wrong location and too small.
Structural integrity: Fuselage very good; wing center section very poor; no internal spar provided, and contact area between upper wing and fuselage is minimal. i built a pretty extensive carry thru spar on mine.
Not to sound like a party pooper, but the deeper i got into this project, the more things i found wrong and i just got burned out. This kit had significant corners cut in terms of accuracy, detail and engineering when compared to the previous F4F Wildcat; it looks like it was either designed in a hurry, or with a minimal budget. I'm perfectly happy building Tamiya Corsairs all day long til they get off the dime and do one in 32nd scale.
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