The torpedo in a 1/48 Nichimo Nakajima B5N2 Kate kit is supposed to be painted iron-blue and an unidentified dark color. My searching has only revealed definitions of the term 'iron-blue', but I haven't found any examples. I generally use Model Master enamels and metallics, and sometimes Tamiya acrylics. What might I be able to find that would be close to the 'iron-blue' color? I'll probably use semi gloss black for the front end of the torpedo.

TIA for any assistance.

An old soldier, but not faded away. Yet.

My guess is that Japanese torpedos were generally the same color as everyone else's - just a plain old dark steel color.

in my library, I painted the torpedo on my Hase 48th Kate build, many yrs ago, a light to med grey/alum mix w/ a blk warhead. I couldn't decide between the grey and alum so I just mixed the two. I've also seen some pics the main body of the torp looking quite dark even if you factor in that its hanging under an a/c. And too artwork of torpedos w/ a red warhead. Most seem to go w/ the blk tho.

If you read instructions on the old Bandai kits, they always identify Gun Metal as "black iron".

Hi Larry,

In the western world we use the name 'iron blue' to describe ferrous ferro-cyanide (aka Prussian Blue). It's a very common pigment worldwide, and Japan may have used it to tint Aotake.

What I can't say with any certainty is that the Japanese term is related to the western term.

Cheers,



Dana

The number of questions by a younger audience has made me aware that MILITARY HISTORY, Dec 2001, "Torpedoing Pearl Harbor", has been out of print too long.
See:
http://japaneseaircraft.multiply.com/photos/album/13/Tech_Intel_Pearl_Harbor

"The 18-inch diameter aerial torpedo used was modified by the Mitsubishi Arsenal at Nagasaki from a Type 91, Model 1 torpedo, and was produced by the Kure Naval Arsenal. Called the Model 2, it was a straight-run, mechanical impact-fired, air-steam powered torpedo. The propulsion system used a freshwater bottle that was fed to a light oil mixture to make the steam. Salt water was used to cool the torpedo motor. Described as an '800 kilogram' torpedo in Japanese records, its real weight was 1,840 pounds. Its black-painted, 46 inch warhead packed 452 pounds of explosive (60 percent TNT, 24 percent HND and 16 percent aluminum or zinc powder). The addition of four more tail fins gave it steadier travel in water, but also caused it to take longer to settle down from its up-down movement.

"...The model 2 torpedo initiated the use of separate gyro-controlled anti-roll flippers that helped keep it headed in the direction in which it was dropped and helped eliminate the underwater hook for shallow-water targets. The success of that modification became a feature on all later aerial torpedoes. In addition, aircraft maintenance crews attached silver-painted wooden vertical and horizontal stabilizers to the steel fins, and wooden extensions to the anti-roll flippers. The gyro-controlled horizontal metal fins were set in an "up" position on the hangar deck to aid with the proper hook upon entering the water."

The late Tadakazu Yoshioka, designer of the wooden fins at Yokosuka (Yokuska) Kokutai...and later based in Dec 1941 aboard Akagi; and the late Shigeo Motoki, the aircraft carrier SORYU's torpedo specialist, were the sources for much of the above details.

summary: Warhead - black; torpedo body and EIGHT tail fins - steel; wooden additions to fins and anti-roll flippers - silver (aluminum) paint

For more see:
http://japaneseaircraft.multiply.com/photos/album/78/PEARL_HARBOR_-album_4

***Dec 7, 2011 is the beginning of the 46th year of study to locate and identify the missing US and Japanese airmen from the Pearl Harbor Attack. At present, all US and Japanese crash sites are located -at least to an "x" on the ocean surface- by carrier/unit, type plane, and crew (sans two men...which one is in which plane?).

They had to keep a light coat of grease on it until ready to load...when it was wiped clean...the no-run samples captured immediately after launch were bright...later they tarnished to a dark color

...just trying to interpret what Nichimo was trying to say with "iron blue".

Of course, there are those of us who know better than to go by a instruction sheet's color call outs in the first place. Good info.

My goodness! I have long known that the participants in this forum were amazing and generous with their assistance. I only wish my modeling efforts were worthy of such.

I'll probably wind up with a hodge podge of a mixed up metal color with a drop or two of some blueish tint. I don't have the skill, talent, ability, experience or strong need to make these exercises perfect [I only wish].

I did find an small, old electric motor that I have adapted to fit into the kit and activate the propellor. That is if I can figure out how to route the wires and rig up a battery and switch somehow, somewhere.

Due to recent preparations for our 50th Wedding Anniversary functions tomorrow, I haven't been able to progress as fast as I normally do with this kit and a couple of other WIP. Which is probably a good thing, since I usually rush through a build/assembly project with corresponding results.

I sincerely appreciate all the answers, input and guidance regarding my question. Individual thanks to each and every one of you fine folks. I may even post pics of this one eventually.

An old soldier, but not faded away. Yet.