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Need help in painting the prop nose of 357th FG P-51D

January 7 2014 at 9:20 AM

David O.  (Login DOchoaG)
HyperScale Forums
from IP address

The prop nose is painted red/yellow/red and I'm having trouble getting a good demarcation between the colors without bleeding of the colors or even a straight line. Any ideas? Thanks.

Here's a photo from the little friends website showing the prop colors.


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(Login lmritger)
HyperScale Forums

Paint the spinner yellow first...

January 7 2014, 9:45 AM 

then cut some very thin Tamiya tape strips, and use those thin pieces of tape for the front and back of the central yellow stripe. Once you're satisfied with how those strips are laying, fill in the middle with liquid mask. Let dry, spray the red, then pull up all the masking, and you should have a much neater demarcation line. You may still need to do a bit of touch-up, but it should be pretty close.



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Bo Roberts
(Login 134AHC)
HyperScale Forums

I'd just bet the 1:1s weren't perfect either. n/t

January 7 2014, 9:50 AM 

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John Beaman
(Login rlanc24)
HyperScale Forums

Scale effect

January 7 2014, 12:10 PM 

True, but consider that if the model is 1/48th and you are looking at it from 15 inches, away that is 60' in scale. Not sure you would see a lot of imperfections from 60' on the 1:1.

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Mark L.
(Login gatormark91)
HyperScale Forums

one note to add -

January 7 2014, 10:06 AM 

... before you paint the red, spray the whole thing with a light coat of yellow again. Then paint the red. This will seal the tape edges and prevent you from having to fix red paint bleeding into your yellow stripe.


This message has been edited by gatormark91 from IP address on Jan 7, 2014 10:07 AM

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Lynn, just learned something
(Login lmritger)
HyperScale Forums

That's a brilliant idea Mark- thanks for that! nt

January 7 2014, 10:10 AM 


Webmaster, The 50th Anniversary IPMS-USA National Convention in Hampton, Virginia

August 6-9, 2014

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(Login MrNostalgia)
HyperScale Forums

You could use Future or another clear, to seal the tape edges, too

January 7 2014, 12:42 PM 

I do this with my canopies, after masking. I'll use Future to seal the tape, then hit it with the colors.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

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(Login gatormark91)
HyperScale Forums

Only one problem to look out for if you use Future .....

January 7 2014, 1:25 PM 

... is that when it is drying is reacts poorly with the drying rates of Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. I don't mix those on the same surface, have had BAD problems with crazing caused by these paints and Future drying at different rates.


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(Login oldkitfan55)
HyperScale Forums

Liquid mask question

January 7 2014, 10:17 AM 

What brand do you like?


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Kevin Martin
(Login kmartin512)
HyperScale Forums

Draftsman circle templete.

January 7 2014, 3:38 PM 

the green one with the couple dozen circles of many sizes.paint the hub white. Then hold the hub to a circle that will sit 1/3 from the back plate and shoot red from the underside of the guide. Then shoot yellow from the top. Let dry, then move to a smaller circle that will allow the top 1/3 to stick out and then shoot red over the yellow.

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Larry Goodell
(Login peebeewhy)
HyperScale Forums

Cut a strip of tape as wide as the rear red band. Cut it now in 8 thin strips that will

January 7 2014, 10:00 AM 

now be as long as the width of the rear band. Place these strips on the spinner spaced equally around the cir.
Use these as a guide to wrap a thin 1/16" or less wide strip of tape around the
yellow painted spinner. Now do the same with the width of the yellow stripe and
wrap a thin strip of tape to mark the front edge of the yellow. Remove the yellow stripe guide strips and wrap a thin strip of tape inside the front ring of tape. Now remove the front ring of tape and finish masking the center yellow
stripe. Shoot your red color. I would tend to think that yellow was applied first to the actual aircraft then the red applied. Hope this helps. Stretch the tape as you pull it around the spinner so it conforms better.

This message has been edited by peebeewhy from IP address on Jan 7, 2014 10:03 AM

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(Login 86Sabreboy1)
HyperScale Forums

I use a plastic circle template

January 7 2014, 11:34 AM 

Not the thin flexible green kind, but a thicker plastic like that of clear styrene. Due to the thickness of the plastic there is a slight taper between the top surface of the template and the lower surface that would normally be pressed against paper or velum.

By turning the template upside down you now have a taper that will conform slightly to the shape of the spinner. It might be necessary to slightly alter the shape of the taper or the diameter of the specific template hole you are using with a sharp new knife blade to customize it to the spinner.

As others have mentioned, paint the spinner yellow first and wait for the paint to fully dry (at least 24 hours). then carefully lay the template over the spinner. With the taper of the template, it might create a pressure fit and "hold" the spinner in place but be sure not to press to hard and compromise the yellow paint where it interfaces.

Now shoot your red paint at a low angle to the template. If possible, let the red paint dry before removing the template as there is risk the template could mar the paint as it's removed. This should give a good result though there might be a slight feather to the paint between the red and yellow. If the feather doesn't look quite right then go back in (once the paint is dry) and use a thin mask of masking or Tamiya tape to tighten up the line. At least now you have a specific line to work with that is already established and if done correctly will be even with the back side of the yellow band.

This process might work for the backside of the yellow band as well though a normal mask usually works as the spinner taper is not as drastic.

I believe in god and the only thing that scares me,,,,,,is Keyser Soze.

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Dave Sherrill
(Login davesherrill)
HyperScale Forums

Randy Lutz's method

January 7 2014, 12:31 PM 


Whenever I get around to building that Normandie Niemen Yak-3 this is how I indend to paint the spinner. HTH


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Lee Griffin
(Login leegee_77)
HyperScale Forums

Good stuff there. Thanks for posting. Randy Lutz is a class act. n/t

January 7 2014, 5:46 PM 


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Mark Young
(Login MYoung135CC)
HyperScale Forums

I recently did one by painting it yellow, globbing on the liquid mask, chucking

January 7 2014, 12:35 PM 

the spinner in my Sherline lathe and while turning it slowly, lay a scalpel blade on the spinner at the appropriate spot. Pulled off the excess mask and sprayed away. Worked great - twice. I did not like the first shade of red and redid the spinner later.

I know that not everyone has a lathe, but there is another way.

A variable speed Dremel will serve the same purpose. The hard part will be chucking it into the Dremel. The interior dimension of the spinner is 1/2 inch and I white glued the spinner to a piece of 1/2 inch diameter rod stock. I don't see why using a 1/2 diameter piece of sheet plastic (.060 - .080 thou?) with a hole drilled in the center for a mandrel wouldn't work to allow the spinner being chucked into the Dremel.

[linked image]

I used decals for the checkerboard, but realized that painting them on would have been easier. It was an aftermarket decal sheet.

P.S. - Wolf, recognize the tailwheel? happy.gif

Happy Modeling

Mark E. Young, Jr.
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
IPMS 5494

KC-135A - Built When Men Thought He Could Burn Water.

[linked image]

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Tony Bell
(Login threedingers)
HyperScale Forums

Similar to Mark's method

January 7 2014, 3:00 PM 

Start by painting your spinner yellow (after priming with white, of course) and once it has dried completely, cover it with masking material of your choice.

Choose a book from your bookshelf that is as thick as the spinner is tall.

Place both the book and spinner on a flat surface and stick a new X-acto blade between the pages of the book with the tip sticking out about 1/4" at the correct height for your first cut.

Pressing down on the book to hold the X-acto firmly in place, hold the spinner against the tip of the blade and rotate it slowly while applying just enough pressure to cut through your masking material.

Once you've cut all the way around, reposition the blade for your second cut and repeat.

Finally, remove the excess masking material and paint your red. To avoid bleed, burnish the edges with a toothpick and spray a light coat of either yellow or clear (e.g. Future) before going at it with the red.


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