then cut some very thin Tamiya tape strips, and use those thin pieces of tape for the front and back of the central yellow stripe. Once you're satisfied with how those strips are laying, fill in the middle with liquid mask. Let dry, spray the red, then pull up all the masking, and you should have a much neater demarcation line. You may still need to do a bit of touch-up, but it should be pretty close.
Mark L. (Login gatormark91) HyperScale Forums 18.104.22.168
one note to add -
January 7 2014, 10:06 AM
... before you paint the red, spray the whole thing with a light coat of yellow again. Then paint the red. This will seal the tape edges and prevent you from having to fix red paint bleeding into your yellow stripe.
Only one problem to look out for if you use Future .....
January 7 2014, 1:25 PM
... is that when it is drying is reacts poorly with the drying rates of Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. I don't mix those on the same surface, have had BAD problems with crazing caused by these paints and Future drying at different rates.
the green one with the couple dozen circles of many sizes.paint the hub white. Then hold the hub to a circle that will sit 1/3 from the back plate and shoot red from the underside of the guide. Then shoot yellow from the top. Let dry, then move to a smaller circle that will allow the top 1/3 to stick out and then shoot red over the yellow.
Larry Goodell (Login peebeewhy) HyperScale Forums 22.214.171.124
Cut a strip of tape as wide as the rear red band. Cut it now in 8 thin strips that will
January 7 2014, 10:00 AM
now be as long as the width of the rear band. Place these strips on the spinner spaced equally around the cir.
Use these as a guide to wrap a thin 1/16" or less wide strip of tape around the
yellow painted spinner. Now do the same with the width of the yellow stripe and
wrap a thin strip of tape to mark the front edge of the yellow. Remove the yellow stripe guide strips and wrap a thin strip of tape inside the front ring of tape. Now remove the front ring of tape and finish masking the center yellow
stripe. Shoot your red color. I would tend to think that yellow was applied first to the actual aircraft then the red applied. Hope this helps. Stretch the tape as you pull it around the spinner so it conforms better.
Not the thin flexible green kind, but a thicker plastic like that of clear styrene. Due to the thickness of the plastic there is a slight taper between the top surface of the template and the lower surface that would normally be pressed against paper or velum.
By turning the template upside down you now have a taper that will conform slightly to the shape of the spinner. It might be necessary to slightly alter the shape of the taper or the diameter of the specific template hole you are using with a sharp new knife blade to customize it to the spinner.
As others have mentioned, paint the spinner yellow first and wait for the paint to fully dry (at least 24 hours). then carefully lay the template over the spinner. With the taper of the template, it might create a pressure fit and "hold" the spinner in place but be sure not to press to hard and compromise the yellow paint where it interfaces.
Now shoot your red paint at a low angle to the template. If possible, let the red paint dry before removing the template as there is risk the template could mar the paint as it's removed. This should give a good result though there might be a slight feather to the paint between the red and yellow. If the feather doesn't look quite right then go back in (once the paint is dry) and use a thin mask of masking or Tamiya tape to tighten up the line. At least now you have a specific line to work with that is already established and if done correctly will be even with the back side of the yellow band.
This process might work for the backside of the yellow band as well though a normal mask usually works as the spinner taper is not as drastic.
I believe in god and the only thing that scares me,,,,,,is Keyser Soze.
I recently did one by painting it yellow, globbing on the liquid mask, chucking
January 7 2014, 12:35 PM
the spinner in my Sherline lathe and while turning it slowly, lay a scalpel blade on the spinner at the appropriate spot. Pulled off the excess mask and sprayed away. Worked great - twice. I did not like the first shade of red and redid the spinner later.
I know that not everyone has a lathe, but there is another way.
A variable speed Dremel will serve the same purpose. The hard part will be chucking it into the Dremel. The interior dimension of the spinner is 1/2 inch and I white glued the spinner to a piece of 1/2 inch diameter rod stock. I don't see why using a 1/2 diameter piece of sheet plastic (.060 - .080 thou?) with a hole drilled in the center for a mandrel wouldn't work to allow the spinner being chucked into the Dremel.
I used decals for the checkerboard, but realized that painting them on would have been easier. It was an aftermarket decal sheet.
P.S. - Wolf, recognize the tailwheel?
Mark E. Young, Jr.
MSgt, USAF (Ret)
KC-135A - Built When Men Thought He Could Burn Water.
Start by painting your spinner yellow (after priming with white, of course) and once it has dried completely, cover it with masking material of your choice.
Choose a book from your bookshelf that is as thick as the spinner is tall.
Place both the book and spinner on a flat surface and stick a new X-acto blade between the pages of the book with the tip sticking out about 1/4" at the correct height for your first cut.
Pressing down on the book to hold the X-acto firmly in place, hold the spinner against the tip of the blade and rotate it slowly while applying just enough pressure to cut through your masking material.
Once you've cut all the way around, reposition the blade for your second cut and repeat.
Finally, remove the excess masking material and paint your red. To avoid bleed, burnish the edges with a toothpick and spray a light coat of either yellow or clear (e.g. Future) before going at it with the red.
Your user name and password will give you full posting privileges to all of HyperScale Forums.
Please note the following conditions of posting:
All contributions are welcome but please refrain from political or abusive comments, racially or religiously offensive remarks, swearing (including the thin disguising of swear words with asterisks and other characters), insulting language and crude metaphors. Please do not use Plane Talking as a public platform to complain about retailers or manufacturers (about issues such as broken or missing parts) before you have followed all normal channels to resolve any greivance. Plane Talking is not the place to conduct personal feuds or for posting personal attacks. Please do not post in capital letters only, as this is considered to be shouting and therefore impolite. Also, please do not post in 'texting message' word format. Any posts breaching these guidelines will promptly be removed from the server and the offender may be excluded from further posting to the HyperScale Forums. Off-topic posts may also be removed from the server.
In addition, Plane Talking is not a forum for the public criticism of the models that appear as Galleries or Articles. Please make any suggestions for improvements or criticism direct to the author via the email link at the bottom of the Article.
Finally, please note that this Discussion Group is privately operated and that I reserve the right to delete any post or cancel any registration for any reason whatsoever.