just got sds em4-f installed the specs are autotech cams w/ port and polished 1.8 head, brospeed headers, g60 injectors (24lbs) with short runner intake manifold w/ vr6 throttle body. I was wondering if any one out here had a similar setup and would want to compare fuel/map numbers, I dont have a wide band yet and i would like to see if i can improve the tune a bit, i seem to get some sputtering at 2k-3k rpms and at part throttle, and every once in a while when im WOT accelerating hard the car seems loke it looses spark as soon as i hit 5500-6000 rpms, the tach will drop and the car will coast till i throw it back in gear pop the clutch and then it comes back to life, it seems that if i accelerate slowly to those high rpms the car will be fine any ideas?

Firstable, buy a wideband Gauge! I prefer Innovate LM1! - www.tuneyourengine.com - After installing that very importend Part, we can talk about your settings, cause we need the result to know whats happen!

Ralf

sounds like you need to ajust your hall sensor

my timing belt skipped a tooth! just put a new one on,the old one only had 20k or so,but for 25 bucks,why not..but I only replaced it because of the way it was running..
just an idea,but feathering to high rpms,and low rpm bogging,that was it..hope it helps..

FIRST of all,check your spark gap..unless you have msd,set the plugs to .030..
and my motor only wants to run well on the factory 3-prong plugs..
I don't believe you NEED a wideband,it would be nice,IF you know what to do with the information!! otherwise,(and I have e-mailed back-and-forth to sds about this) the $80 mixture meter will get you 95%+ to perfect tuning..even on the street.. now this meter doesn't give you anymore info than the o2 voltmeter on the controller,but you can see it without going into that screen..that is where it shines!! I pulled the light chip off the pc board,and epoxied it into one of my blank button plugs next to the radio..it looks awesome!now I have to interface the controller info/controls into my touchscreen alpine head unit..(ok,that'll be a while,but I will do it eventually!!)..ok..getting off the subject,sorry..I do that..
the post a couple up is probably something to look into..adjusting you halleffect sensor..I temporarily put some washers under my harmonic balancer,and it doesn't hit anymore..look for signs of touching,a partial circle on you hall effect sensor,or just a small ding where the magnets spin on the top of the plate..my harmonic balancer is old,and I am looking into making a new one,sfi fluid filled ring from fluidampner..I had them on both the chevy big block,and the ford 302 I had in my vette..I never compared them to anything,but I figure they looked cool anyway.. main thing is they don't have a rubber ring to let the outside of the balancer jump around! not to mention,my balancer slipped,I had to change my base magnet position about 8 degrees!! now,you cant drill into the fluid filled chamber,so I am gonna make a plate to mount the magnets behind the fluid ring..viola! again,I will update,and provide as much info as possible as soon as I get it done..and dont go above 33 btdc or so..and I even program in 5 deg retard at .80 ",and go down by 1 deg every 5-6 steps,up to -6" or so(actually,I think its higher than that,but..hopefully you get the idea..keep reading..),I get down to 1 deg retard..0 up to about 12,then up to 3 deg adv around 16 or so,just a slope up,then down to 0 again around -19" or so.. but I am also richenning(a word??) up the mixture 20 'points'(the arbitrary numbers they use to program the fuel curve based on rpm) at 500,72 at 5500,92! and with my timing at 27 btdc,full throttle,5500 it still knocks a little..i am just going +rich,-retard number by number..flip-flopping fuel/timing/fuel/timing.. just remember to change everything with a nice 'slope'..sometimes it is easier to visualize if you actually graph out your numbers..(that stuff in school does pay off,NEVER thought you'd graph anything ever again DID you????) but seriously..sit down and graph out what you have,take some notes,change something,graph it out again..just make sure all you changes are smooth transitions..(a nice sloping,maybe sometimes strait line on the graph..)
hope I didn' overload anyone,I have just found that when something is explained by someone another way,it might just hit you whats going on,and understanding is just around the corner!!
btw,the fuel numbers don't mean much without the map numbers..idle is around 34+- from -21" to -22"+-..then I go up +1 a couple steps..basically,I am still playing with my numbers,but I think I am around 108 at +.80",down by 2 each step,until i have to go -1 per step to end up at 34 at -21.3"(does that make sense??) so letssay -21.3=34,20.8=35,20.3=36,19.8=37,one one,until you 'meet' the number you get to going down by 2 each step from .80..again,if it is graphed out,is slopes slower at first off idle,then faster to atmospheric..(sp??) oh well..just post something and I will try to help..I either CONFUSED the crap otu of you,or I may have helped..(obviously,I hope I helped,without BORING you to sleep!!)
enough babbling..
thanks for putting up with it!