this is the next question after the question about close-up lenses.
What's the best way to get proper illumination in extreme macro-shots?
Do these ultra-bright LEDs have a continuous spectrum? I think spectrum continuity would be a question for Bryan "The Minolta God" Biggers
IIRC, Nikon offers a ring fitted with LEDs behind an opaque ring as macro light source.
Are the Minolta Ring Flash or Twin Flash Sets any good? I think I've also seen opaque rings where you can place your subject in the middle and light that from the outside with studio flash equipment.
You seem to be thinking along the same lines I am a lot lately.
I have tried LEDs mounted in a ring. But even with 16 of the most powerful white ones I could find (8500mcd I think), I still needed 1/8- 1/30 sec exposure at f/9.5, so I couldn't hand hold the camera. That's really my goal, The D-7 is such a wonderful light camera, it's a shame to put it on a tripod. It's also much easier to shoot living things outdoors if you can hand hold the camera.
So, I've been tinkering with this for the last two months;
This allows me to shoot at any shutter speed stopped down to f/9.5 for maximum depth of field.
Lighting is pretty even, without that creepy hospital look that a diffused ring flash gives (there are some specular highlights).
I'm going to add some LEDs to aid in focusing in the dark.
Good Luck,
Pete
This message has been edited by PeteGanzel on Feb 19, 2003 4:53 AM This message has been edited by PeteGanzel on Feb 19, 2003 1:05 AM
Pete! Must have been very difficult bending that hot acrylic to such exact dimensions. I like you thinking, seems like you have come up with a very workable solution. By the way where did you get the square acrylic rods? ......... Rolf
The acrylic rods are heated one at a time with an air gun and bent around a foil covered wood mandrel thats sort of shaped like the camera;
The most important part is not overheating (causes bubbles).
The mount is made from 2" PVC conduit that is turned on the inside with a custom made lathe tool to cut the
ridge that fits the exterior lugs on the camera;
"
It fits on the camera with a quarter turn, the camera can be zoomed and used normally with the flash closed.
How much did it cost to make, and would you consider making some others for purchase?
As my EVF rubber peice has recently began to come loose, I see that you have something different on yours, just wondering what it is exactly, and maybe where to get.
Actually a couple of dollars, the material costs more to ship. It does take me about an hour or so to turn one out, with making the mounting and all. The mandrel is made so I could produce some, but they need to look a little better, maybe with a little practice. If you want some of the first ones, I'll charge maybe $30, later,$50. The ones with socketed LEDs will need to be around $80-$100. Any special configurations?
The eyecup I use is from a RCA VHS videocam that I bought junk for some parts for a few dollars. It is really nice, helps viewing and focusing , I don't know why Minolta doesn't make a proper eyecup, complaints about the EVF would be reduced.
I may take you up on the under $50, with knowing exactly what I am getting, unless someelse here does first, but I am still experimenting myself. I was thinking about a flash softbox attachment(I think that is what they are called) to put on my external flash which has a slave trigger attached and use the Minolta Flash on 1/16 or 1/4 to trigger.
I use something similar (actually a plastic ice cream bucket with a hole cut in the bottom) to shoot the jewelry my wife makes. I do exactly as you were thinking, slaving a flash unit from the side with the camera flash on 1/16th.
I don't know about that! Yes, they do have a continuous spectrum, but there is often a color bias which you can work around. Here is a link to a light curve. I think that Nikon even sells a macro light that uses white LEDs. Bryan http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledwht.htm
At least with the White LEDs I'm using, that blue spike is really strong. I can't get it to white balance with the camera. Adding a little red just makes it a little maroon. It looks OK on most subjects but when shooting for example, white paper, there is a color cast. I suppose you could subtractively filter, but there goes your brightness..
He He, the beauty of editing..
Good Luck,
Pete
This message has been edited by PeteGanzel on Feb 19, 2003 5:41 AM
The LEDs could be pulse driven at higher power in sync with the shutter. This would make handholding more feasable. For the tinkerer there is the advantage of no HV circuitry. 555 timers to the rescue!
This message has been edited by browntimdc on Feb 19, 2003 7:14 PM
The ring flash gives extreme detail but since there
are NO shadows, the pix look a bit "flat".
The twin flash is the most versatile flash I have
ever used/seen. It has 2 arms that can be moved to
almost anywhere, i.e. above/below/45 deg/90degrees.
If you would like to see some samples of pictures made with the Twin Flash you could have a look at http://www1.photosig.com/photos.php?cameraId=1717
Some images made with the Ringflash R1200 can be found at http://www1.photosig.com/photos.php?cameraId=2107
I agree the Twin Flash provides excellent results and IMHO is really the best macro flash available. The Ring Flash comes more to its own right when photographing from really short distances ie. with strong close-up lenses attachted to the 7's zoom. The larger the distance of the object from the Ring Flash the flatter the lighting.
Hope this helps!
I learned that the twin flash is more flexible regarding the positioning of the two flash units. Especially in order to work with any add-on lens.
I think that the length and diameter of the add-on lens might be important when using the ring flash. What diameter and which additional length can the add-on lens have for 200mm focal length? Will the ring flash work with an inverted 50mm lens?
Hans-Jürgen
This message has been edited by hjreggel on Feb 19, 2003 8:28 PM
The ring flash can be attached onto a 49 mm thread. You can utilise all sizes of close-up lenses in use with a suitable stepping ring. A reversed 50mm lens could only be used provided you could find and adapter ring to convert the bayonet fitting to say a 49mm thread. I'm not sure if these exist.
Regards,
With a wein slave trigger.I'm going to buy a small cheap flash, and use that instead of my vivitar 283 ( its too heavy) Or maybe two, one on each side.
"
Yes, they do have a continuous spectrum, but there is often a color bias which you can work around. Here is a link to a light curve. I think that Nikon even sells a macro light that uses white LEDs. Bryan
