I have a 1994 626 lx 4 cyl. Now that the cold weather is here i'm having a problem with my windows. They keep freezing from the inside. The defroster doesn't help and neither does blasting the heat. I don't know what to do. I wipe the windows off and it just comes right back. it is almost like a film on my windows. I'm out of ideas of what to do.... can anyone help?
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First, the simplest.
Is the "Fresh/Rec" selection switch for incoming air at the "Fresh" position?. Is the louvre actually working, and not stuck in the REC position? You can check this by looking at rthe linkages on the airbox while switching the setting from "Fresh " to "Rec" and back
In Alberta here, when it gets cold, if you make the mistake to leave this flap in the "Rec" position, the moisture from the breath of the people in the car cannot leave the veicle, and it condenses on the glass really quickly.
The second, and much more plausible reason, since this seems like a new problem, and the car is older, is that the temperature control valve is leaking. This is a little valve that controls the amount of coolant entering the small radiator (heater core) inside the car. It used to be a big problem with older Hyundai's, and I also had it with my '86 626.
It is not an expensive part and if you are mechanically minded, should take about 2 hours to replace.
Option 1 Nutshell replacement procedure:
Locate the valve, (usually by lying upside down in the car in some gymnast friendly position!), and ensure you have enough access to it. You may have to remove some of the trim panels.
Identify the valve, and confirm it is the correct one by moving the heater controls from the "Hot" to "Cold" positions repeatedly and observing the movement of the valve plunger.
Obtain replacement valve and O-ring/washer/sealant as required. (The Mazda parts dept should let you know what you need).
DRAIN the coolant from the radiator as much as possible, with interior temperature setting in the "Hot" position. This reduces the amount of coolant that will drain from the heater core into the car.
(It helps if you locate and loosen the radiator drain plug when the engine is cold. snug the plug back just enough to prevent leaking, warm the engine up and then drain the coolant, BEING REALLY CAREFUL NOT TO GET BURNT!!! Doing this ensures that the thermostat is opened while you drain the coolant, and it allows more fluid to drain out of the radiator.
Make sure you have a container that can fit under the valve, to catch the remaining coolant which come out when you remove the valve. Also spread old towels or absorbent cloths on the floor in the area, to catch the remaining fluid from the heater core. It can stain the carpet.
Remove the temperature control linkage from the old valve, if possible. (Sometimes it is easier to remove the old valve then uncouple the linkage).
Clean out the area, lube the new valve with coolant, them the installation is the reverse of the removal.
Ckheck the valve operates smoothly and relatively easily by hand. Then connect the linkages and re-check.
Put the temperature setting in the "Hot" pposition, close the radiator drain plug and refill the coolant. Run the car until the engine cooling fan cycles twice, then shut down and re-check the coolant level.
Realize that you have to now clean thoroughly clean the interior of the car windows. Hot dilute vinegar-water solution, paper towels and some effort will remove the film caused by the condensing coolant. Don't forget the rear view mirror. Also, since the inside of the car (carpets) is most likely saturated with coolant vapor/deposit, run the fan at high and the temperature setting at hot, directing the air to the floor for a few days, with the rear windows cracked open as yu drive, to help extract all the moisture.
While this may seem an excceding long reply, the actual task in not difficult.
Good luck.
Rick
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