I have a 95 Millenia 2.5V6 that I deem to be the "Car from Hell". It is a low mileage car but has given me nothing but trouble. I have read lots of messages on this forum and it seems my Millenia has just about all the problems mentioned. It dies on me all the time. I've spent over 4000 dollars on various parts and labour in the last three months....distributor (2: one rebuilt and one from the dealer), TCU, O2 sensors, mass air flow, checked vacuum, Etc Etc. Problem is still not solved. Car just quits and I never know when it will happen...Sometimes on the highway sometimes it just won't start. Have been to four different shops including the dealer and still no go. Mechanics declare it fixed and send me on my way. Seems everything has been checked including codes and mechanics just scratch their heads. No one seems to know how to fix this beast! The latest problem is I can't drive it and can only keep it barely running in park if I vigorously pump the gas pedal. Seems like fuel starvation but wait 10 minutes and it starts again. Last mechanic said fuel pressure was fine. In any case, after it fires up again, it stalls again within the next mile or twenty.....Dirving this car is a crap shoot. I've been towed so many times AAA sent me a letter suggesting I get my car serviced! What a joke !

I wouldn't wish this dud on my worst enemy except perhaps Sadam............ IF he used it as a get-away car he would be sure get caught. Guaranteed, it would leave him stranded by the side of the road within the first 20 minutes. Does anyone have any suggestions other than blowing it up? Can I bypass the traction control? Can fuel starvation be intermittent? Thanks

Try Alldata.com (I think that's the site, you may have to use a search engine to find it). They are a clearing house of TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins). Auto manufacturers issue all sorts of bulletins for glitches with their cars.

I would have hoped all the places you went to would check this first to see if the problem is related to a TSB.

I had one like that. I had to replace the PCM,the TCM,the boost sensor and TCS relay all at once to solve it. Can't be disabled i don't think. But you could try disconnecting one of the wheel sensors. The ABS is tied into the TCS so that should disable it. You will have the ABS light on all the time though.

Just got the car back from the shop and they disconnected the ABS and TCU. Mechanic assuere me that the stalling problem was likely solved. Surprise Surprise...........I just walked back home and the car is dead on the road again. I hope someone would steal it but no such luck. Just a call from the law wanting it removed.

Take it to a dealer,tell them you don't want it back til it's fixed. Authorize them to allow a responsible,intelligent tech to drive it to and from work til it's fixed.

Oh yea. Call Mazda corporate and get them involved. They can send a troubleshooter out to fix it if they want. At the very least the rep will get involved and you could possibly get a rent car and some reinbursement for what you've spent at the dealer.

That was done a month ago.
Dealer mechanic drove the car for 3 days and reported no problems (That episode cost 350.00). Picked up the car and 20 minutes later I'm stranded again.

Go back and complain and generate a complaint with Mazda corporate. Get reimbursed for work done that did'nt fix it.

I hate to bring this up, but the problem you have definitely appears to be an electrical ignition related problem. It is possible that you may a problem with the wiring harness connector somethere. You mentioned that you went through two (and I assume expensive, because I doubt you can buy one for $ 75 like one for my 67 Ford T-bird) distributors and every time they put a new one in, the car ran OK for a while. If you have an intermittent harness connector problem, you can get unexpected electrical failures. I had something like this happen on an old 1970 Chrysler Newport. The alternator voltage regulator connector was broken inside (not visible from outside) and made intermittent contact. My car would run good for a few days, then stall in the middle of the road because the battery ran down and the alternator was not charging at all. You could not even jump start the car and it had to be towed. (I paid $ 20 to have it towed 35 miles in 1976). A Chryler dealer, who happened to have an old wiring harness, clipped out the connector, crimped it on, and no more problems. Those were the days when electrical problems were easy to diagnose. No engine computers, no electronic ignition, no electronic modules, no circuit boards anywhere. I honestly wish I could buy a 1976 Chrysler New Yorker with a 440 cu inch V8 for $ 7500 today. I do not care if it got only 10 MPG. It would be a lot cheaper in the long run than spending 1000s of dollars on repairs of expensive electronic gismos that one can live without, after having spent $ 30,000 on a modern new car.

I believe it needs a PCM.

What is a PCM?

Powertrain control module.

Here is a good advice: It seems to me that everybody is trying to fix your car by tria-and-error technique becuaset hey do not know hwat is wrong. Unfortunately the parts are terribly expensive. I would try used parts, for example from silverstarrecycling.com, at least you will not pay a fortune for the parts you do not need. Cahces are they may have a good used 95 Millenia PCM for a very reasonable price.

This is a possibility. Check the fuel tank for water inside. I have faced similar problem in another car, and that was the reason. Mazda did some service calls to replace the fuel cap. Not sure if yours is included.
good luck
bill

come over to mazdaworld.org all of you's... theres a lot of milly owners that can help.