Just wondering how much horsepower at the wheels people have been able to get with standard (not high flowed)turbos? As I'm building a Hillman Hunter with an FJ20ET in it and am wondering if I should upgrade the turbo before or after I get it going. I think it has the .48 rear.

I made 216HP to the rears with my standard turbo on 14psi, but that was with the 0.63 rear. The turbo sounded like it was struggling and ran out of puff around 6500rpm.
So id say if your looking to make much more power than that, then youd be better off high-flowing or upgrading turbos.

Personally i wouldnt bother with a standard hi-flow of a T3, my dad and my mate have done this, both spending around $900, but both being underachieving upgrades.

My mate with IDO:11Z uses the same compressor wheels as mine which i believe are cosworth (pretty sure they are sierra wheels), they flow the best and make awesome results.

So you still end up with a T3/T4 match but the wheels make all the difference. If anyone can contradict me let me know and im interested in feedback...

I didn't think there would be much point in keeping the std. T3!! Especially as there seems to be some cheap T04's out there. I have found two that are reasonably priced. One is a HKS T04E with .70 rear(no markings on front though) and the other has a .60 front with .84 rear. I know they will be quite laggy but how bad would it really be? What sort of HP could be expected with either of these? Would love to know what everyone thinks!!!

thats interesting i thought they could make more power! my DR30 got 219rwhp on 16psi with catback exhaust, small Trust FMIC, and pod filter.

ive now gotten full 3" exhaust, and upgrading in the next couple of months to a big Hybrid FMIC.

was hoping to acheive a tad more power with the big cooler and full exhaust system than it made before, but if the turbo cant do anymore than about 220rwhp anyway maybe i wont make much gain! thats a shame!

does feel a bit breathless though atm. shoves u back wen boost hits for a second or so then ur like la de da ... hmm ... and boost just sits at like 1/1.1bar right til i shift around 6300rpm and it still feels slow lol

damn turbo!

I don't think any one is going to make more than 230rwhp with the standard turbo and even that is a stretch. 200-220rwhp would be closer to the mark on about 17-18psi depending on the condition of the engine. Peak hp should be around 6400rpm. Beware if you are running this sort of boost with the standard computer, it is risky. You can run more than 18psi with the standard turbo but you will be making a lot more heat.

i see. im running about 15 or so psi atm with old school Trust FMIC kit that it came with from japan, replacing that with the Hybrid but didnt intend to up the boost any more than where it is now.

wat does the standard computer do to make it risky? just cant cope? computer is my next mod once ive gotten the new cooler in.

The standard computer uses a flap style air flow meter. The computer measures the amount of air going in to the engine by how far the flap is sucked open, Then supply's the right amount of fuel for that amount of air. Once the air flow meter flap has been sucked open all the way, the computer can not measure the air flowing through the air flow meter past the full open position. There for can not supply the right amount of fuel needed. This means it will run lean and detonation will occur.

At 13psi it would be fair to say the air flow meter flap would be completely open at 6000rpm.

Even with a rising rate fuel presser regulator running 40psi of fuel presser at idle, We found the engine ran to rich up to 4500rpm then ran to lean from 5600rpm. That test was done with 16psi of boost. The only way around this problem is to replace the standard computer with a programmable ECU.

Hope I have helped.

Presser is ment to be pressure.

yeh that is helpful, cheers for that. that makes sense with this car as the last owner dyno'ed it and it was running lean up top so i put a Bosch fuel pump in but havent re-dynoed it since, but it didnt seem to make much difference seat of the pants wise and i would assume that it hasnt helped the leanness up top. the dyno run was also done on 16psi in this case too.

cheers for that ill keep the boost at 16max for sure til i get new comp sussed.

Sorry this is an old msg but i just had my dr30 dynoed at Micks motorsport with 256.2 hp at the rear treads on standard motor with standard turbo. only mods being a big front mount, 3" exhaust and haltech e6x comp. pretty good for an old fj20.

I got 195rwhp from my standard FJ/t3 @ 12psi running custom FMIC, 2 1/2exh and wolf V4 ecu, running 15psi would expect around the 220, which is a nice number in something as light as a 1600.

A bit of a thread hijack but to back up what Fantasy had to say about AFM's.
Apart from the FJ powered ute, I also have a Pulsar turbo ET. After subjective testing of the AFM at wide open throttle on boost, the flap was fully open at 2700rpm! The computer has no other boost sensing so the engine survives above 2700rpm on programmed fuel and ignition maps alone!
L8tr
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The older we get........the faster we used to be!

My FJ20et running LPG, 3" exhaust, small FMIC and 10psi just made 151rwkw power and 414Nm torque.

ive got dyno sheets for 270hp atw in my stanza with the stock t3 at 15 psi but with a t4 on the same motor it made 323hp atw on 15 psi that should give u an idea on power differences for the turbos