I'm trying to find out what a suitable stainless steel is for using for a FMIC pipe setup.

I'd like to install the setup in a street car on a budget but if there are better options for longevity and cooling ability than i'm listening.

I'd also like to know if there is any ill-effects if I connect my current standard intake using 3" piping to 2" connections on the intercooler and then back to a 3" piping on the turbo side.

I'm considering doing this so if I replace the intercooler at a later date I don't have to replace the piping.

I plan to have a BOV on the intake side of the piping.

Thanks in advance

Your cheapest bet is to use 304 stainless steel. You can get them cheap at tubesales near brisbane, like 25-30 dollars for one 3" bend.

316 is not necessary and others not necessary.

Regarding intercooler piping, you dont need to go 3" but you can. If your throttle body or intercooler piping elsewhere is smaller, dont bother, waste of time. Smaller piping does offer better response.

Cheers

i think using alloy would be a better option than stainless, lighter an cheaper

Pros and cons for intercooler pipes.

Mild steel,
It’s cheap that’s about all it has going for it.
It can not be polished, it can be painted or chromed but it will still rust on the inside.
It does not transfer heat very well.

304 Stainless steel,
It polishes up pretty well and maintains it high polish finish.
Like all stainless it does not transfer heat very well so your intercooler will be doing all the work.

316/L Stainless steel,
This is marine grade stainless. It polishes up extremely well and maintains its high polish finish with minimal maintenance. Probably the best choice if you are doing a show car.
Like all stainless it does not transfer heat very well so your intercooler will be doing all the work.

Aluminum,
It polishes up pretty well but needs a fair amount of maintenance to maintain its highly polished finish.
It has extremely good heat dispersion qualities and is very light.
First choice for race cars.


304 and 316/L stainless steel are usually fairly similar in price. But please ask you supplier.

2 ½ inch pipes are all you really need to make up to 350rwhp.
I have changed intercooler pipes on cars making 300rwhp from 2 ½ to 3 inch and found virtually no benefits.

Use reducers from 2 ½“ to 2” from your turbo and 3” to 2 ½“ from your intercooler.

A method commonly used by performance workshops when making intercooler pipes is to use Aluminum from the turbo to the intercooler and then Stainless from the intercooler to the throttle body.
Aluminum disperses heat on the way to the intercooler and the stainless stops heat transferring back into cooled air.
Well that’s the theory anyway.

Cheers

Thanks so far.

I've noticed a lot of 304 grade stainless bends being sold on ebay, anyone know if these could be dodgy? What sort of questions should be asked when buying piping?

I've been told that alluminium can heat up fairly quickly compared to stainless steel so most people seem to recommend stainless. Last time I got pricing from someone they would charge more for a alluminium piping setup...

Thanks Fantasy, you got that one up as I was writing the other response.

Some good info there, appreciate it.

The aluminium/stainless combo sounds good.

Cheers

Ricky couldnt have put it better.

Not many people use it but copper tubing has far superior heat transfer properties than ally.

It can be chrome plated for a trick finish and heat reflection as well.

Speaking of things copper, the idea that an ally radiator is better than a copper radiator is actually crap.

This is due to the superior heat transfer properties over aluminium.
Copper will transfer 384 watts/meter-degree centigrade (w/m-°C) while aluminum only transfers 155 w/m-°C.
Therefore copper transfers heat at approximately 2.5 times faster than ally.
Secondly, due to the inherent superior strength of copper, the radiator/tubing can be significantly thinner walled for the same strength and therefore, the weight penalty argument begins to loose its significance.

Given that a copper core of similar design is near enough to 2.5 times more efficient than ally, the core could be made significantly smaller than the aluminium item.

Bottom line is that apart from the flashy look, an aluminium radiator is pretty much a waste of money if you are trying to actually cure heating problems.

L8tr
E

Where that theory goes down the toilet is what its stuck together with - solder . Solder has a high lead content and therefore very poor heat conduction . So next time you look at where the gills or fins are joined (soldered)to the tubes remember how much less heat they are conducting out of the water in the tubes . Have a look at competition car radiators , in them maximum heat transfer and minimum weight is essential . Aluminium .
I've been down the road of full width intercooled FJT Bluebird and no copper core radiator could cope . The answer was a Koyo brand R32 GTR aluminium cored
rad wich coped easily .
I get to operate trucks and locomotives wich use copper rads for a very good reason , flex and vibration which they stand up to . XPT power cars use an aluminium cooling group for weight reasons and trust me , the fitters at Toy Town Sydenham are always welding up cracks .
Cheers A .