Hi Guys,

I know there have been plenty of these threads and i appologise for starting another one but i realy would like some help.

i have been building an fj. pistons, rods, nitrided balanced crank, metal head gasket, double valve springs, looking like a very mild bit of head work, 880cc injectors, 70mm throttle body.

my initial choice for a turbo was goingto be a gt3040r mainly because i could get one cheap, and it wouild make big power. but i have been thinking about it and its probly not going to do what i want.

Basically i want a minimum 350rwhp and full boost at or before 4k rpm. is the gt3071r going to give me that kind of power? i dont want it to be a stretch.

Just a note i plan to be revving the engine higher than standard with the valve springs and an external oil pump.

thanks for your help!

cheers,
Alex

oh yeh and i forgot to mention that the car is street registered but will only get driven on the odd weekend and raced for fun.

so not too worried about driving in traffic etc.

can anyone suggest a good turbo for my app?

thanks again,
Alex

No a 3071R wont push the internals that you have, i have researched that turbo a fair bit and have found them to hit the limit at around that sorta power. With those internals and bolt on bits I would go something like a 3540R or maybe bigger with cams, As for revving it harder, the stock cams are good for more than 6250rpm as previously stated on here, I have a dyno sheet hopefully as of tomorrow that shows my engine making peak power just after 7k. yes peak power. so go for it mate, push the limits, cos i think youve got one hell of a decent setup.

Gareth

Thanks Gareth,
I cant wait for it to be running.

So you think i would test the potential of a GT3040R?
The one i have has a .82 rear. My concern is that i wouldnt find boost before 4000rpm. the other option for me is simply a GT30R.

does anyone have experience with a similar setup with these turbos?

The GT3040R is the perfect turbo to reach your goal and surpass it.
You will be making usable boost well before 4000rpm with a good exhaust manifold.
About 7750rpm is the max you would want to rev your engine with a GT3040R.
Any more and you might start thinking of getting A GT3540R and an intake manifold.
But with the GT3040R and a good tune you will already have the potential to make more power than you are looking for.

Yeah fantasy's got it sussed, should be a good unit for the setup. the only think i was curious about from fantasies comment was about the inlet manifold. Have you had your manifolds tested on a dyno yet? im just curious to see where its putting peak power. You have seen my manifold and im making peak now at just over 7. What benefits would a big manifold have on a larger turbo setup? i havnt looked into it too much.

Thanks,

Gareth

Gareth, pics of your manafold?
Mine made max power at about 6900rpm with stock intake man,stockish cams and GT25"40R" turbo on tubular ext man...

Hi guys,

thanks for the advice... manifold issue sounds interesting, i'm planning on using the standard manifold modified to take the bigger throttle body.

oh and fantasy i hope its a good exhaust manifold.... you're making it!

i have sent you an email to order a turbo.

cheers,
Alex

what about an upgrade from a disco potato fantasy? what would you recommend

I made it from cutting down the original manifold runners etc. Very time consuming, i think i spent 6 hours alone just qith a die grinder on the ports.

Gareth

Hi Gareth,

With your S15 turbo peak power would have been around 6000 to 6300rpm with the standard manifold. And Anthony I am a bit surprised your peak power was so high. Not that it is a bad thing.
Basically a big inlet manifold and/or shorter runners will move peak horse power up the rev range. A well designed inlet manifold will also aid in equal flow to each cylinder.
I haven’t done any testing yet on the inlet manifolds I posted on here a while back. I haven’t had enough time
We have started doing some testing on the 1200 ute with it’s manifold which is a lot bigger with shorter runners than the ones I am jigging. We haven’t had much dyno time yet but we know peak power is well above 7300rpm. LOL.
We have just bought a set of slid adjustable cam gears so we will be fitting them next week along with a MSD and then we will be getting down to some serious dyno time. I’m expecting peak power to flatten off around 7800rpm to 8500rpm , but we will not be revving it that high yet.
The manifolds being jigged I would expect to flatten off at around 7400rpm to 8000rpm.
But no calculator can tell you what’s going to happen in the real world.
And obviously other major factors come in to play as well, like turbo size for one.

1200 ute manifold


Manifolds being jigged

Ryan,

There are dozens of turbos from all different manufactures that you could up grade to.
If you want to stick with Garrett or turbos based on Garrett’s the GT3071R would be the next step.

Cheers

Gareth, did you make little bell mouths to go inside that?

Ricky, I thought the rpm was a bit low for max power??? Isn't stock power at around 6400rpm? I was thinking as my power figure was recorded on 10psi,the low shaft speed of the turbo might have had something to do with the not much higher than stock peak power... (?)

And I'm also hoping with twice the boost, the shaft speed will rise much quicker giving me a bit better responce time (well that's the plan :P )

Thanks for the quick reply, I forgot to mention that I have since speaking with you last upgraded my turbo. Sorry Fantasy that i didnt speak with you further, it was out of sheer coincidence that I spoke with someone that had the parts to build a GT3076R on his shelf, (internally gated GT30, .70 cover and T25 flange) in turn i ended up with that. Now as for peak power changing with boost levels, When I was at the dyno, Matt did a number of pulls with a few different boost levels, I ended up with another 50HP on the same boost of 18Psi. however, peak power was always the same RPM (within 100rpm) we tried boost from 10 - 22 psi and all made peak at the same revs.

Fantasy, I am now very keen to try one of your manifolds and is next on the mod list. Matt tuned it on the rich side and I can probably get away with a few more psi yet quite easily.

As for response being related to boost pressure, i think, (not sure) you will find that the higher the boost, the later the power will come on. as more exhaust gas is reqired to spool the turbine to the higher speed?

Thanks,

Gareth

I would be very wary of any GT3076R with the .70 ARR T04S comp cover , it usually means its got a seven bladed T04S compressor . The best GT30R's use a six bladed compressor in a .60 ARR T04E port shrouded comp cover . Look for turbo number 700382-12 with cartridge number 700177-0007 . The expensive but slightly better responding option is the HKS GT3037 version which differs in the compressor trim (52 vs 56) and comp cover ARR (.50 vs .60). This cartridge number is 700177-0006 and maybe one day we'll be able to get it from Garrett .
From the petrol heads at Garrett in Torrance Calif USA , "I would not put a GT3040R on anything as its a bad match of compressor to turbine " . The GT3540R uses the same compressor as the 3040 but with a much larger (68 vs 60mm) turbine which 82mm GT40 compressors realistically need to drive them . This is all getting a bit large and laggy for 350 BHP . The dash 12 GT30R mentioned above can do 350 hp easily with less lag than the 3040R , a much more efficient and easily packaged turbo .
The real GT3071R cartridge no 700382-23 uses a 60 mm GT30 UHP turbine needing a GT30 turbine housing . HKS do some really nice integral gate T3 flanged turbine housings in .68 and .87 ARR which will bolt to your existing exhaust manifold . The flap valve and gas path are of much better design than most integral gate housings . One of these with the 3071R or GT30R (-12) should work well .
Cheers A .

Gareth, interesting about your peak power remaining at the same rpms with higher boost.
I have to disagree to an extent about resonce/boost level.
Providing everything else is set up ok,there should be enough exhaust gas to spin the turbo up higher at (pretty much) any point after it's come on boost. All the excess would be usually by-passed via the wastegate. If you've ever been in a car with a disconnected wastegate,and watched the boost gauge,you can't even get to half throttle before the boost goes sky high...so that's what I was thinking when running higher boost,the wastegate wouldn't be by-passing any till that boost level was reached,thereore feeding the turbine 100% of gas flow,and the shaft speed would rise at a much quicker rate,giving better responce and also hitting harder - As witnessed by the difference it comes on from running 15psi,to say 20psi....

Of course I could be so wrong it isn't funny

Disco, all these turbos we see have 7 bladed compressors and claim to be GT30Rs...isnt this the case? If not, what are they?

GCG offer the GT30 with 0.7 cover...are these the 7 bladed compressors? If not, they are the 6 bladed compressor which is better right???

Whats the diff bt 7 and 6?

Cheers B

I asked the same question of gcg and was told that the turbos they sell have 6-bladed compressor wheels. however i have seen turbos that were sold by them with the t04s front that discopotato was talking about.

dont know what to think

The 7 blade comp wheels are apparently from an old school T04S turbo,while the 6 blade wheels are from the new school GT series of turbos. Obviously the newer 6 blade wheels would be better...but in defence of the 7 blade wheel, hey,it's still a TO4S (wheel) ,which isn't a small unit

Most T04S compressor wheels are 76/76.2mm as are the GT37 series BCI-18 wheels . The T04S wheels are not GT (Garrett Technology) era wheels , they are from the heavy T04 turbine lower speed and bush bearing rotating assembly era ie 1976 . The T04S wants to move lots of air at low speeds , the GT turbine wants to accelerate to higher speeds but it cant because the higher number of blades (compressor) means it loads up at less rpm's .
Note the T04S comp cover is huge compared to the T04E that the GT37 comp uses for no more airflow .

Only buy T04S compressors if you want more lag , less pumping efficiency and the associated large comp cover that won't move any more air . These wheels were made obsolete by GT wheels because Garrett knew they were limited by design .

Rule : The more the number of blades and the thicker they are the less efficient a radial compressor is and the more energy is required to drive it .

High speed wheels will accelerate up to pumping speed faster than low speed wheels especially with low friction bearings .
Note how you don't see 8 bladed T04B compressors in modern turbos , 7 work better than 8 and 6 is better than 7 . The difference is NOT trivial and worth paying a little more for . Insist on 6 blade compressors always over 7 or 8 , the race engineers do .

QUOTE: we haven’t had much dyno time yet but we know peak power is well above 7300rpm.

Is this with std cams and std valve timing.....If so...dayum!!!!!!!

Seb

What about the garrett gt30 700177-11, the turbine wheel is only about 1mm smaller in exducer and only flows 5lb less on the compressor side (50lb v's 55 for the gt30 -12 core.). It should be ample for 350whp with a 0.63 turbine housing. For more power I'd go to the .82 turbine housing. One the comp side a 0.6a/r t04e should suffice.
I'd like to know opinions on that setup.
Just having a look through my garrett chra book (genuine garrett item), all of the following garrett gt30 cores (chra's), have a T04S compressor wheel.
700177-0010
700177-0011
700177-0012
700177-0013
The book doesnt tell how many blades on the comp wheels.

I think that a TO4S comp wheel = 7 blades. The 6 bladed wheels are GT series wheels,not TO4.

I emailed ATP turbo and they reckon the 7 bladed compressor wheels and t04 cover work very well and theres nothing to worry about....maybe just to market their goods......who knows.

I know there are plenty of GT30s with to4 covers making good power out there. Theres one rb25 on 30 psi making like 560rwhp on a GT30 0.82 with 0.7 to4 housing.....

The simple truth is that GT compressors give better performance , they are a true high speed wheel to match the GT turbine .
Look at it this way , the extra blade/s give the wheel more bite into the air they're attempting to screw through therefore the mass of the air is greater and the compressors power source (the turbine)is asked to provide more shaft power than its capable of at low revs . Propper GT turbos windmill at considerable speed when off boost , the turbine energy required to get up to speed when you stand on it is fine IF the bloody compressor is not trying to grab great gobs of air at low speed . The real GT turbines and compressors are designed to be stable and efficient at much higher shaft speeds than the bush bearing dinosaur wheels . The GT wheels were designed with low friction annular contact ball bearings in in mind and thrive on high rpm's . Bush bearing wheels had to live within the speed limits of tubular bush bearings and thrust plate end float support . They very quickly destroy themselves at the high end of the BB turbo's speed range if they get that far .
It is absolutly true that a smaller more modern compressor with less blades will pump better than older larger low speed compressors but at higher revs . The modern wheels are superior in every respect - less mass , better aero , mechanically stronger , more compact = less inlet air heating and much better transient response (less lag) .
The only BB HKS turbo I have ever seen that did not use a GT compressor was the 2540R (no longer made) - it used a six bladed T04E compressor that is more modern than the T04S but not as good as the BCI series GT compressors . All of them use GT compressors now , they know what the benefits are "Power and Responce" - believe it .
Your money , your call .

Cheers A .

What you said about the GT series comp wheels may well be 100% correct. I have no reason to doubt that. However according to the garrett chra catalog there isn't much choice in the gt30 range.
In the garrett gt30 series of turbos there a 5 variations of chra's. 4 of these chra's are fitted with a t04s series compressor wheel which vary in flow from 44 to 60lbs. The 5th chra has a gt40 comp wheel which flows 65lb. I question the match of such a high flowing comp wheel and a relatively small turbine wheel. Personally I would stay away from it.
Thenext step up from here leads to the realm of the gt35 turbo. If the guy is looking for 350whp this isnt an area he should be going. Not only is the power well above target but the spool would be slow on a 2.0L, and he states he wants power by 4000rpm.

Put all the techo stuff aside the gt30 garrett is a good unit. For the power output he's looking at I'd be going for either the 700177-0011 or 700177-0012 gt30 cores. The -11 would spool just a fraction faster with a top end loss of maybe 10% over the -12 core. However they will both sustain 350whp.
For faster response go the 0.63a/r turbine housing for a bit more top end (but slower spool), go the 0.82a/r. On the comp side a t04e 0.6a/r housing should flow heaps.
In my opinion the gt30 -11 with the listed housings should be able to support 500 flywheel hp which would translate to about 400whp.

Lets stay away from the number of blades, series of turbo core and focus on what makes power, how much of it and when it will spool up.

Some examples

700177-0006. GT30 Turbine + 76mm 52 trim BCI-18, HKS GT3037 52T
700177-0007. GT30 Turbine + 76mm 56T BCI 18, HKS GT3037 56T also GT30R
700177-0023. GT30 Turtine + 71mm 56T BCI-18, Garrett GT3071R

The first two are GT37 series compressors and the third a GT35 series compressor . Generally GT30 compressor wheels are 60.1mm , GT35 wheels 71.1mm , GT37 wheels 76mm , GT40 wheels 82 or 88mm and GT42 wheels 94 or 102mm .
The confusion exists because some T3 compressors are 60.1mm , some T04B wheels are 71.1mm , some T04E and T04S wheels are 76.2mm or 82mm an so on .

The horse came before the cart and Garretts GT Turbines came before the GT Compressors . Initially they had to hang some form of compressor off the high tech turbine so they used what was available ie T04S wheels .

HKS had an exclusive technology tie up with Garrett so had access to the best compressor and turbine combinations for high performance petrol engines . But they had to compromise at times , as mentioned their 2540R used a 46 trim T04E wheel because nothing better able to suit its needs was available .

Garretts GT3040R , which is not ideal as the comp is too big for the turbine 82mm/60mm , uses a 56 trim compressor where HKS's version is a 50 trim wheel . Again not ideal but less of a compromise because the 50 trim can get by on less turbine energy than the 56 trim . HKS are not stupid but are limited by what is available .

Note the 2540R was replaced by the GT-RS (GT2871R 52T) for the same less compromised better response technology , the 76mm 46 trim T04E wheel was replaced with the 71mm 56 trim GT35 wheel .

HKS used to option a 48 trim 76mm GT37 wheel in their 3037 turbo range , Garretts 700177-0023 GT3071R with its 56T 71.1mm GT35 comp has far better response for a little more air capacity - thats having your cake and eating .
it .

As you can see a pattern is forming here with the Garrett GT BB turbos , which HKS also use in various forms . Unfortunatly the GT Turbine/T04S options are still available but Garrett is a business so if they keep selling they'll keep supplying them .
Also note the propper GT turbos are a little more expensive - just like faster more desirable computer processors . The best cost the biggest bucks
and the turbo vendors know it . If you don't know any better why would you buy the expensive one if you cant see a difference ? If you ended up with the cheap one you don't get to see the difference in performance and are no wiser . People used to crow about how much better HKS turbos performed because they used thermo nuclear technology or some such nonsence . All it was is a better selection of wheels (all Garrett developed) and on occasion some custom made housings to suit specific aapplications . Lets face it virtually all Garretts stuff is developed for Diesels because thats where their volume sales are .

Cheers A .

Ahhhh, very good information. I understand now.

If you dont mind I'd like to swing this topic over to the gt35 series (sorry original thread starter), I was looking at going to a gt35 for my engine. There seems to be a big gap in turbine size between the gt30 and gt35 (55mm to 62mm), I dont see theres any other choice in between, please correct me if I'm wrong.
If purchasing a gt35 I assume the chra to be using is the 706451-0005 and then fitting either a 0.63 or 0.82 a/r on the turbine.
With a compressor flow of 60lb/min with that chra I suppose a to4e comp housing would be sufficient.
I am not at all familiar with other brand turbo's such as hks, etc, so I only make reference to garrett.

It seems having the larger turbine side really lets the engine breathe better and produce excellent hp at relatively low boost levels. Problem is spool.

The GT35R is a generic turbo , a factory hybrid of the GT35 turbine (68mm major O/D in 84 trim) and the 82mm GT40 compressor in 56 trim . By the way the proper GT30 turbine is 60mm major diametre , GT35 is 68mm .

There exists a backyard theory that small ARR exhaust housings on big turbos makes good response or lower boost threshold . It has been done in an attempt to "spool up" big turbos on not so big engines . Where it falls down is when it gets up to speed (the turbo) it tries to push more air into the engine than it can accept and the result is compressor surge - that huffing or woofing noise . In a low boost application it may work to a degree but a smaller turbo can do it better .

People from the RB25/30 sphere of interest ask about the crossover point between GT30R's and GT35R (GT3540R) all the time . On an FJ20 I would stick to the GT30R and "tune it" with the available turbine and compressor housing options . If you dig through Garretts online turbine maps the flow numbers come up almost the same for GT30R + 1.06ARR turbine housing and GT3540R with .63 turbine housing . However there's a thing called a compressor at their other ends that do very different things . For any half reasonable road response the GT30R is better and you can taylor it for two litres either side of the middle .82 ARR housings . If you cant get enough low down from the GT3540R with its smallest housing there's nowhere else to go . Incidentally the 52 compressor trim version of the GT30R (I think only available through HKS as their GT3037 52T) is best with the .63ARR GT30 turbine housing as the 56 trim version is a bit big for the small turbine housing . Large trim compressors are not the thing for those seeking better response/less lag . The production engineers at Garrett US say that the difference in boost threshold is about 500 RPM 52-56 trim in GT30R's .

With RB30ET/DET they make so much torque off boost that they can afford to have their turbo's sized to come on boost later and have less exhaust restriction , 2L 4's can't do it quite the same .

Anyway the part numbers for the GT3540R are CHRA no
706451-5 . The unit or assembly no is 714568-3 (.63ARR) , -2 (.82ARR) , -1 (1.06ARR) .

There is a model specific GT3540R for the BA XR6T which uses an integral waste gate 1.06 exhaust housing and a .50ARR T04E comp cover . Its application is a 4-6 psi low boost on a four litre DOHC six cylinder . I don't have its unit no with me ATM but they're easy to find/get . Probably not much go on an FJ till 4-5000rpm with that 1.06 rear housing .

Even Ford don't use a seven blade wheel !

Garrett lists , don't just assume because your's dosen't show them that they don't exist . Do a search on Turbomaster , look into Garrett - Aplications - racing and GT30 , again not all but most . What will drive you crazy is lots of part numbers with no details .

Post again if still interested .

Cheers A .

If you dont mind me asking I'll state my personal instance. 2.0L engine, I have recently bought a brand new garrett gt30 700177-11. Unfortunately (in hindsight), it has a 7 blade comp wheel. T04e 0.6a/r comp housing and a externally gated 0.63a/r turbine housing.
According to garrett which sold me the unit the turbine side should be ample for 500hp and slightly over. if this is true the turbo will do what I want it to.
I am still pondering if I should have gone the 0.82 turbine housing but was reluctant untill I have had the thing running, but I have this gut feeling the .63 ain't gonna do what I want, I hope I'm wrong.
It seems so hard to get a clear answer on tech details for these turbo's. The amount of people that I've asked what will it flow, when will it spool and the lack of solid info has really pissed me off.
I would very much like to know your opinion and thought on this unit.
My concern is that this unit wont flow the power and I should trade it in on a gt35.
Thanks.

So its for an RB20DET , first thing to ask is what type of power curve you're after as a maximum power Hp/Kw number often not telling the whole story .

RB20's are the most challenging of the RB family because of their smallish 330 odd cc cylinders , they make less torque off boost than the 25/26/30 and have to resort to shorter gearing and small exhaust capacity turbos to boost low engine speed torque in order to shift an R32 weight car . As engine capacity goes up so does off boost torque and larger exhaust side turbos can be used in order to not restrict or choke exhaust gas flow out of the engine .
Back to the RB20 , because they're a short stroke motor they can rev like a turbine BUT getting a turbo to make low speed torque while working over a wide engine speed range and not choke the exhaust side is virtually impossible .
This is not to say that RB20's can't make impressive power numbers but the inlet/exhaust tracts and turbos need to be large to handle the air and exhaust throughput . When the gas paths get that big the actual gas speed at low engine rpm is very slow and it goes against a piston engine making torque because of no ram charging (inlet) or extraction (exhaust side) . Gases tent to ossilate back and forth particularly at the valve overlap phase and volumetric efficiency goes through the floor .

So back to your turbo , If you need a reasonable torque spread over a wide range for road one of the better GT28 based turboes ie GT28RS may do it but probably hit the wall at 330-340Hp . I believe HKS had Garrett develop some combinations aimed at RB20's such as the GT2835 Pro S with its integral gate T3 flanged .68ARR exhaust housing , expensive but anything effective will be .

Any GT30 turbine based turbo for an RB20 will need the compressor to help the turbine out all it can by putting the least load on it - unless you intend it to not do much under 4000+ revs . The UHP GT30 turbine was deliberatly designed to have very high gas flow (with absolutly minimal restriction) for its 60mm size . An RB20 at low revs is doing well to excite it even with a small .63 ARR housing and as mentioned needs help from an efficient just barely enough sized compressor wheel .

The combination to avoid at all costs is the cropped GT30 turbine (found in all HKS GT2835's and Garretts GT3071 WG or "waste gated") with Garretts bored out T25/28 flanged GT28 housings . The HKS housings work well , the Garrett GT28 housing does not - its designed for GT28 turbines and when bored out larger turbine efficiency is woeful .

Finally to the GT30/T04S turbo you have . The T04S wheel is the least likely design to help the turbine get a riggle on so its not going to do you any favours down low . In fact its doubtful if any 76mm compressor will help your spool cause though the 52 trim HKS stands the best chance . I think I mentioned earlier in this thread that the Garrett GT3071R (CHRA no 700177-23) with its 71mm GT35 compressor (also used in HKS's GT2835 series) would have to be the best responding GT30 turbine based CHRA along with the HKS 2835's but they MUST use the correct exhaust housing designs .

At this point its essential to know that any bastardised bored out non native exhaust housing ie T3/RB20,25,VG30 used with Garrett GT turbines/turbos will also suffer a lag penalty . Turbines and their native housings are a matched set and alternatives just dont work . If you do this you're on your own - no Garrett R/D here .

Lastly , do not glibly accept charts that say turbo X with turbine Y is good for 500Hp . Most turbos are power rated by airflow pumping capacity and the Hp that amount of air can produce - its a really stupid way to measure a turbos ability . It completly ignores the turbine/housing size and capacity so is only half the story . Was that 500Hp a 5.7L V8 with 4lbs of boost or a Cosworth BDT 4 at 8,500 rpm and 30 lbs of boost , the requirements are chalk and cheese - so different - as is the power curve .

We really need to know what you expect from your RB20 and don't be surprised if the appropriate turbo is not as big as you think . You may find a larger capacity RB in a lesser state of tune is a more cost effective proposition .

Something else to think about if you want all its dogs barking is a better exhaust manifold - the cast HKS is proven , has a blankable external gate mount and the T3 flange . Its about second hand and opens the door for some worthwhile options - particularly if you like to experiment .

Sorry so long and off the original topic ,
Cheers A .

Thanks for all the info, Let me tell you I am very grateful for your efforts in responding with good info.
Funny you should mention the bored out garrett T28/25 housing. That was the original housing that was supplied to me. I have since changed it and wont be using it.
As this topic has gone way off the original subject (again my apologies to the original thread starter), I think in order to pursue this subject we need to discuss engine configuration/turbo in more detail. Maybe email me at wrxsti01@pacific.net.au we can continue.
Thanks very much for your help on this.

Really confused now , we're talking about a 2 Litre of some sort but is what I thought an RB20 actually an EJ20 or an FJ20 ?
If its a Subaru I cant offer any opinion , EJ's being a boxer or horizonally opposed flat 4 have different requirements and beyond my sphere of interest . All I do know is that they have an unusial firing order and the distance between the heads makes exhaust manifolding long and difficult to maintain pulse energy and heat . Obviously the EJ25 should be the basis of any serious turbo Suby because it developes more torque everywhere in a lesser state of tune .

This is getting way beyond anything NISSAN / FJ20 and should stop here .

For Skyline L/FJ/RB discussion the two sites I like are Skylines Australia and Skylines Down Under . There is a site for Bluebird 910 fans and someone here has the link to it . Subys not sure .

Cheers A .

3071R is the turbo you want!

haha i'm glad i started this thread, opened up some realy good discussion. and brought out some realy good info.

thanks for everyone's help and feel free to go off topic as its all interesting stuff.

Cheers,
AJ