hey guys
A while ago compression test found 124 73 103 124 in the cylinders i was stupid i didnt do a leakage test at this point. i ripped the head off got it serviced and got told it had two bent valves. ok i think thats problem found/solved. i put petrol down the cylinder bores to see how quick it dissappeared took ages so assumed rings are good. put it back together.
car felt like it still had lack of torque
compression test again 130 76 128 130
leakage test this time 25% 75% 50% 50% from the crankcase
I want build a really tough bottom end so if/when down the track i want more kw's i no it can handle it.
im after ideas/suggestions on what i should and what brands are best to use.
what about boreing it out to something like a 2.2L?
The car will run roughly 12psi for street use and 18-20 for the circuit work i do when im done upgrading a few other things.
Thanks fj guru's

LOL, for what you want, just stock rebuild will be sweet. YOu can get heeps out of the stock fj...thats why we love em. You can alternatively spend heeps and heeps of money to be just that little bit quicker than a worked stock fj.

i want to rebuild once and once only. This car isnt/will never be pussy footed round.
anyone know anything about corillio rods? (think thats how its spelt)

Reliability (since you only want to rebuild once...heck we all want this) comes down to tune, not the goodies you have inside. Forgies wont give you more power and in fact are NOT more reliable, just more resistant to the times where dotonation pokes its head around. If you rebuild an fj to stock specs, it will handle 18-20 psi all day every day for many years if the tune is right and you do the daily services. Even an SR will handle that!!! As for rods, the stock FJ rods if shoot peened can handle apparently heeps well over the 400rwhp range which is more than youll make on 20psi.

But if if you dont want a tough reliable engine, speak to mark ashford. He'll build you one. Itll cost around the 6k range for a mild build but built by the best in the game. Or you could just rebuild your engine to stock specs for less than 1k (if you do the work yourself) and still make as much hp on 20psi.....

above should read instead of daily services : appropriate servicing...

Also if you do want a tough engine as opposed to "dont"....should preview before posting :p

i dont want to hijack but i'll also be looking at a rebuild in 6mths aswell, so i just want to clarify this, a standard rebuilt should be capable of handling 400hp, yes?? If not what is necessary to handle this without having to upgrade things unnecessarily??

whats shot peened?
i heard its something like 1200 bucks to get done?

Shot peening is exactly the same as grit blasting except they use steel "shot" or small balls rather than sand.
The "peening" of the metal relieves stress points which could become a potential failure point.

1200 bucks to basically grit blast you rods and crank eh? Hehehehehehe someones pulling ur leg M8.
L8tr
E

Hey E,

I believe shot peening isn't to relieve stresses in the rod, it is to actually induce stress in the outer skin of the material. It cold works the material making it slightly harder than the rest of it. This makes them less likely to crack or fatigue.

don't be cheap

CP or SPS pistons and PAR rods ... then you wont have a problem making huge hp (for a 2 litre)

FWIW, scotty's stanza made over 600 rwhp with standard conrods UNTIL one snapped

SD, check your mail, I have a message for ya :p

Also, why sps and cp?

Cheers