hey guys i've got a 1986 king cab navara to which i'm fitting an fj20et...
Engine is dummy sitting in.
has to sit further forward than desired due to the turbo sitting so far back on the engine (the dump will hit the firewall if i want to put the engine back more)
But the main problem is that the end of the plenum is hitting on the clutch master cylinder. i won't be able to fit a thermo in between the engine and radiator so i may have to remove my a/c condensor which will piss me off coz i want to keep my a/c.
should i just forget about my a/c and remove condensor or does anyone have any ideas on what to do with my clutch master cylinder??
as far as the dump pipe goes, i can bash the firewall in enough to give me another 20 or 30mm.
thanks guys,
bexi

what manifolds are you using? dr30 or s12...

I'm using dr30 manifolds
the s12 manifolds produce less power and where the hell would i find one anyway?

I've seen pictures where the rear of the plenum chamber has been cut off and a plate welded on.
other sugestions, see if there is a different master cylinder that is smaller ( in shape not piston size) or fit a remote master cylinder or then again get a custom phenum made up?
although were all guessing with out pictures, either that or write a thousand works

hey i have pics but don't know how to get them up here... i can't host them myself
can anyone help me?

hey guys if you click this link below you'll see some pics that i managed to get up on another forum. would be awesome if someone could transfer the pics over for me?
anyway click the link below and check out the pics and see if u have any suggestions for me

http://www.subsided.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4880&st=0&p=103666&

thanks
bexi

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I'm assuming you have to fabricate engine mounts for it?

I would say tilt the engine a bit so the plenum is a bit higher, then use a remote reservoir on the master cylinder. Have a search on this site the guy who built mine (720 kingcab)is a member on here and might have written something about it. Its just a cap where the reservoir goes and has a hose going to the remote filler, its off a VW something I think.


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Isnt it possible to use z18et gear on the z24?

I'm pretty sure the S14/15 200SX clutch master cylinder is the same diagonal bolt pattern as most Nissans of that middle 80's era . It just has more of the cylinder body inside the firewall . The Gazelle (S12) exhaust manifold and Nissan/Garrett T3 dump pipe solve the firewall probs as well . This particular dump pipe only suits the .63AR ratio turbine housing as the .48AR housings have the vent hole in a slightly different location and while it bolts together wont seal .

Easiest option is S12 exhaust manifold and the early DR30 non intercooled .63AR type T3 turbo . You can have the back machined off the flap plate and a sandwich dump pipe fabricated .

I sold my DR30 and very soon all the considerable pile of FJ ET bits are up for sale . I have all the manifold options but don't wish to part with them till the engine is sold .

Cheers .

Alternatively, sell your engine to me :p

Had the same clutch cylinder problem fitting an fj to my 180b. Solved using a different cylinder - was really easy

ok....this is the one I used. Its half the length at least of your existing one
part number is: JB1490
should work at Repco and Apco
says its for:

"M/C TOYOTA DIAHATSU CHARMANT, TOYOTA COROLLA-SPRINTER.
Dia. 15.87"

The 180b has the mounting holes directly over each other i.e. vertically. If yours are on a diagonal you can also get these shorter cylinders with the diagonal mounts, they are just off a slightly newer corolla i think

PM for details , complete engine minus CAS (IC DR30 type from late 84) .
Rebuilt by AJ from defunct Road and Rally centre . Gearbox internals DR struts/brakes and R200 IRS rear end . No LSD diff not for sale - yet . Will post in for sale section later .

thanks heaps for that sam... will trot on down to repco tomorrow to check it out

hey I went to repco to check out the part number that sam gave me (thanks sam) and that number is matched up to an AE71 corolla and is vertical mounted as sam also said. so i went for the AE82 clutch master cylinder whech is diagonally mounted but then discovered that it's on the opposite angle to the navara and so were all the other cylinders he had there so i stuck with the AE82 one and drilled new holes on my firewall, made a little extension plate off the pedal and ..... voila... done.... now i have a much shorter master cylinder and the plenum hits on the booster now indetead of the master cylinder.... i think i'm just going to settle for it the way it is now and hopefully have trhe engine mounted by the end of this week
cheers
bexi

it did't occur to me that it might be diagonal to the other side, good to hear you got it sorted anyway.

hmm booster... tilt the engine or get a tiny booster off a 180b or 240k, don't know if they will work as well though, or if they bolt up or not, but they will solve your clearance issues as they are tiny

my 720 (which I assume had the same booster as a navara) is now running what looks like a stanza booster, on the engineers report it says datsun 1200, but they never came with boosters so it cant be. Also the master cylinder is reversed so the reservoir is away from the plenum

hi so would it be possible for you to take a picture of it or give me the part number/serial number on it? and also who did your engine mounts.... are they totally different to the standard ones... i don't know how to do the mounts myself as i can't weld but i'm worried about getting way over charged for getting the motor and box actually mounted... are you in sydney?

I'm in canberra

Its too dark atm, but its a PBR 13/16" master. I'll take pics when I get a chance. Engine mounts look like DR30 welded to the chassis rails? I cant remember what it looks like standard

I shaped and designed my engine mounts myself then just got a welder to weld where i wanted him to. Takes abit of time designing mounts, i.e. sitting motor in place and testing how high, location, etc so this would save you heaps if you did it yourself.

It makes things easier if the original mounts bolted to the cross member as you should just be able to make your new ones so that they also bolt to the same spot.

I used a flat steel plate to move the mounting position back towards the firewall (still using original mounting holes on the cross member, then the plate protruding backwards from them) Then got some 100mm by 100mm box section (so like a square steel pipe) and cut this approximately in half (so i ended up with a u shape piece) to get the right height needed. Then also ground down one side of the 'u'to get the required angle to match the uppper part of the mount. then just get the two welded together. oh and used 5mm thick steel throughout although this is probabaly an overkill

pictures here

http://www.datsun.co.nz/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=185&highlight=engine+mounts

Just made up the lower part to suit the standard fj20 upper part

hey thanks heaps... photo's would be awesome of both your booster and engine mounts if possible.... not quite sure where i'd get original dr30 mounts from but that would definitely make it easier to just adapt them to weld to my chassis
sam thanks for your continious help... i wish i had a cross member like you do... would make it so much easier

I'll get you some pics, theres DR30 engine mounts on ebay right now IIRC

hey mate, here's a few pics, sorry if they're crap its a bit tight in there.

On the booster it says: "VH148 22 H 9 D/S" I hope that means something to you because it means squat to me :P

Booster showing reversed M/C
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Booster showing spacer to firewall
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Inside firewall showing redrilled to fit booster
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Passenger side emgine mount close-up
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Passenger side engine mount from the front looking along the chassis rail
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Drivers side engine mount (sump was in the way)
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Hope this helps,

Ty

That looks identical to any 180b or 240k booster (i think they are the same) the 180b has that same spacer too.

hey man thanks heaps for those pics... that's heaps of help. i really do appreciate it
thanks
bexi

I ran into the exact same hassles when fitting an FJ20et into my 2wd Hi-Lux.

The clutch master cylinder drama was solved by mounting the master cylinder from "inside" the firewall rather than externally. This was made easier due to the removeable reservoir on the Toyota MC. Its a Rubiks cube magnmitude of a job to actually remove the master cylinder but its worth the hassle!
This gave me about 30mm extra room to move the engine back.

In the end, frigging with subsituting brake cylinders and boosters and so-on looked like a hassle so i ended up cutting more ort less 80mm out of that stoopid manifold runner length!
Cut it, shut it and smoothed up the inside of the runners with an extended porting tool and fly-cut the flange flat.
That way, the engine stayed at much the same angle it always did and didnt hit the large(ish) Toyota brake booster.

At saner engine tuning, the loss of length of the runners is irrelevant.
A m8, for the hell of it, ran the engine specs/dimensions into a predictive engine "dyno" computer programme and the runner length we arrived at was almost identical to what the programme predicted.

L8tr
E

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The older we get........the faster we used to be!