does anyone have any pics on where to drill the block for the oil feed. im converting a N/A to turbo and i need like a tutorial also, like when i drill, do i gotta have the drill bit and tap covered in white grease to pick up metal shavings and stuff? can anyone please walk me through this? thanks


also, boosted frog, can you post your geocities webpage....i lost the link..

thanks guys.......

its in behind the starter motor,
I will try to get a better idea tomorrow,
also when you tap a thread if you don't have the right cutting compound you can use fat from your cooking it helps with the cutting by keeping the metal cooler and makes for a smoother thread
if you post e-mail I will sent photo of oil line

so behind the starter...wow such tight clearance allready...


allbuds420@hotmail.com

thanks for your help...

hi why dont you tee it off the oil pressure switch

Wrote you an email today!!!!

I need to update this site as it only has very old info.

www.geocities.com/datsun180bfj20det

But DO NOT tap the block. You dont need to. For oil supply, just "T" the oil pressure switch. Its the easiest and best way. For your oil return, tap and drill the block where the stock FJ oil return is. Im sure someone can post a pic of where this is. I dont have one unfort.

But why arent you ever msn anymore? I could help you out easier on there.

Maybe see you soon in teh states

Caio

I put the oil return into the sump. That way it was a bolt off, bolt on proposition.

As an aside, I started my turboed N/A FJ20 last night for the first time. It is only running 0.4 bar at the moment, but hey, it is finally there! It is all just improvements from here...

So your running a N/A block with all N/A internals with the compression of 9.0:1 ??

if so let me know how it runs because im interested in doing the same thing.


thanks

caillin

Mine is NA, stock, 9.1:1 ratio. Ran 19-21 psi for months. Now runs 25 psi. How long it will last I dont know.....But time to take it to the track...when I have the time to fix the box :s

The most important thing is to make sure you run the appropriate advance. Since your engine is already mechanically advancved in comparison to the ET, you will need to run considerable less advance. Also, run 11.5 AFR.

With stock setup and stock t03 turbo, my car ran best at 12-13 psi. After that, it ran worse.

Now it has gt3540 and it getting tested to its limits and reliability. After all, 9.1:1 isnt high, not with 100 ron fuel available these days that I havent touched yet (only ever run 98) even on 25 psi.

Love the NA.

OK, that's interesting - Boosted Frog, why run a 11.5:1 AFR? WOuln't that promote bore-washing? We road-tuned the car last night with a wideband and aimed at stoich. Temp didn't play up at all - in fact it ran nice and cool the whole time. I was a little concerned with the temps as I put a 600 x 300 intercooler on the front and it covers the entire radiator. MAT was around 9 degrees, with a peak of 13 degrees. The faster we went, the cooler it got.

I put (what I was told were) ET injectors in, but the duty cycle maxed out once revs got to about 5500, so AFR started climbing from there. There doesn't appear to be a fuel pressure issue. Hence, we left the initial boost pressure (0.4 bar) alone.

BTW, I put a ET inlet cam gear in my NA engine. Other than that, it is perfectly stock.

I am competing in a car rally on Saturday, so it is about to get 150 km of absolute punishment. Should I be re-tuning the car to the lower AFR???

Cheers,

Matt

Stoichiometric is 14.7. Only used to reduce emmisions, nothing more.

I would not run 14.7 ever, on a turbo engine on full load. On part throttle, ie less than 0 boost, you can run 14.7 if you want, infact its best for emission control as noted before.

ON full throttle on boost, you are losing a lot power by running 14.7 and even more, youre lucky the engine hasnt cracked the ****s and pinged itself to death. You have saved yourslef by running low ign advance. 13 degrees sounds about right for your application but you could run 15-16 degrees on that boost of 0.4 IF you run afr of 12, at 14.7 as said above, lack of power and dangerous for engine. Make sure you listen properly for pinging. Just listening to engine itself without proper equipment is catastrophic (potentially).

You need to run 11.5 to 12.5 afr. I recommend running 12-12.2 for up to 1 bar. At 12.2 youll make best power but keep an eye on detonantion and run more fuel if needed. Under no circumstances should you need to go below 11.5. Run less advance if you get knock.

11.5 wont wash the bores!!!!!!!!!!

Some run 13 on low boost levels.

Let us know how you go.