What is the oil that people run in the fj & how much does it take with filter & without .Have standed sump?

i use castrol edge. sport 10w - 60

best stuff so far i recon...

ow and about 4. 5 letres coz i got a oil cooler

10w 60 in a fj?

I wouldnt be putting that in mine. FJ's are suited to a thicker weight, preferably 25w 50, but not many companies make the 25w 50 anymore.

I believe Penzoil are the only ones left doing it, stewart wilkins stock its specifically for fj's.

You can get Castrol Edge 25W50. It is available from most of the SuperAutoProBarn shops...

Ummm whats this too thick too thin thing going on. Usually quite a bit of ignorance on this subject.
Fair bit of mis-information as to what the weight figure of an oil actually means for most of us.

Well M8 FWIW, a 10w60 oil, should be looked at as a straight 10 weight oil that BEHAVES as a 60w oil when HOT.
So, a 20w50 oil should be viewed as a straight 20 weight oil that BEHAVES as a 50w oil when HOT.
The 20w50 is actually a lighter oil when it matters most, HOT! But a heavier oil when it matters and a lighter oil would be desireable!

The characteristics of the oils is specified at a given hot reference temp which is usually 100 degrees C. I cannot remember at the minute what the actual cold reference temp is but its pretty much irrelevant to most of us.

This is why its foolish running engines oil temps too cool which so many advocate. Ive seen some cars with oil coolers the size of decent intercoolers. Why for frigs sake if the car is a streeter?? Track racing cars? Different story.
Oils are designed to run and behave normally at elevated temps to engine water temps and many many dudes are caught in the oversize oil cooler trap and are actually contributing to engine wear rather than protecting from it as would be the reason for fitting a cooler.

A nasty by product of engine combustion, particularly when cold, is the eventual contamination of oil with acids and water and other ****e and the oil heating up evaporates off these destructive contaminants.
If oil is held too cool, these contaminats never get the chance to evaporate off and your engine runs basically perpetually "cold" and this acellerates wear many times.
Basically the engine internals are being eaten away by acid rather than simply worn out from normal use which is the major cause of engine wear from cold starts.
Oil temp thermostats are made just for this reason and promote faster heating of the oil and the oil being maintained at more constant higher temps for longer, which is what is necessary for good lubrication and engine life.

Taxis are living proof of the benefits of running hot all the time. They run perfectly for many hundreds of thousands of K's due to being hot all the time and little or no destructive acid contamination of oil.
Mums shopping trolley is usually totally knackered for the same K's. Why, it runs cold all the time.

So, the bit we are most interested in is the fact that the 10w60 oil is actually a HEAVIER oil that the 20w50 when HOT.

This is a bad thing and you wouldnt run it????????.
Oil technology has come a long way in the 20 years since the FJ's were modern dude.

The lighter oil the better bet when cold. There is no disputing this.
So the benefits of using a 10w60 outweigh probably outweigh the additional cost.

However, at the end of the day, run whatever modern oil you like.
Even very modern engines run the same bearing running clearances and so-on as our older clobber and so any oil suitable for "modern" cars will happily be backwards compatible with our older engines unless the engines are rooted in the first place.

Happy oiling!
L8tr
E

What about 10W-30?

Right on Tassie superkart man, the cold reference is at 0 degrees celcius, so it is relevant on cold mornings - where most damage does occur.

The only problem with a wide viscosity range such as a 10-60 oil is that where it is subject to severe shock, such as on the nose of the cam lobe with high spring pressures, the polymers which make the oil change viscosity with heat can break down and you end up with a 10 weight oil again where you need it most. The nose of the cam is the most heavily loaded part of a FJ20 in my experience, and here I see benefits in running, say a 15-50 or 20-50 oil over a 10-50 or 5-50. I run heavier valve springs so have seen the difference - also, my cam manufacturer recommends semisynthetic oil to keep film strength up around the nose of the cam. Apparently they are better at doing this than full synthetics, which are excellent on bearings etc, but not so good on the nose of the cam.

re: 10-30, will probably see a little more power due to less friction due to 30 wt when oil is hot, but perhaps a little more wear again due to the 30 wt. same comments as above for the 10 wt for cold start and on nose of cam etc.