hey guys i just got a new turbo that need water lines iv serched the site for info and it seem u can tap some where on the turbo side if anyone has pic of where u tap it could you help me out with some pic's
cheers tom

Use TB heater lines. Direction doesnt matter.

BF

Under the turbo down low on the block is a water drain hole and threaded plug . We removed this plug , drilled a hole throught it and brazed a steel tube off an old fuel rail to take a rubber hose . Fixed .

PS We also used a section of Thermotek heat shield cover to prevent turbo heat frying the hose .

ok sweet i see it dit you drill the hole in the plug its self?

Tom it was either that one or one with the same thread . We made up our own fittings because at that time it was quicker/cheaper and we had the facilities . You may be able to buy steel or brass fittings with 5/16 or 8mm barbs , we used fuel hose for the water lines and had NO dramas . Just make sure you shield them if they are close to the manifold or turbine housing . Mine had banjo fittings with the steel line going up next to the top hose and a fuel hose to join it up with another threaded barb in the side of the thermostat housing behind (on the engine side) of the thermostat . The lower (and inner) banjo fitting pointed straight down as did the "L" shaped bit of steel line in the plug so that the lower hose was fitted in a "U" shape .

Regardless of what anyone says this provideds the most protection for the turbo because this system thermosyphons when the engine is off and water pump stopped as well . Any steam bubbles flow up to the thermostat (which will be open) and out via the top radiator hose to the radiator and in my case the overflow tank .
If you go via the heater hoses there's no guarantees it will thermosyphon and if the steam bubbles end up trapped in the head localised hot spots can cause cracking at times .

I still fail to understand why people here have hysterics when I tell them that at shut down water naturally boils in the turbos centre section . The steam bubbles and hot water escape up the top line eventually to the radiator (see above) . Cooler/denser/heavier water out of the blocks bung hole flows up to constantly replace it in a constant cycle until the bearing housing drops to the water temperature 1-2 minutes and the whole lot cools down evenly . Why would people think that a turbocharger that operates at several hundred degrees centigrade , would be very concerned about water boiling at 100C and being replaced by coolant at 85C ? This nothing like as violent as watching a fool remove a radiator cap from a red hot engine with predictable results . If you stand quietly and listen to a system set up like this all there is to hear is a quiet gurgle gurgle pause gurgle gurgle etc for about 1-2 min . If there was any background noise you wouldn't hear it at all .

I used this system with no lack of sleep on an expensive ball bearing turbo fitted by someone whose worked on rally NA and turbo machinery all his life , and he's got grandkids so go figure . AJ's no fool .

Cheers .

yes u can get brass and speedflow/earls fittings to fit the spot on the side of the block.. thats where mine is hooked up

just undo the plug, take it ti a hose and fittign shop and get them to match it

thanks for that guys with the top return water line where did u run it nismogemini?

i went into the fitting under the thrmostate.. i think its orginaly used for the heater return but i dont run a heater..

if u still run the heater u could use a T fitting into the heater hose to return it with