Here is a list of what you will need to do the swap.
[u]PARTS RETAINED FROM THE FJ20ET[/u]
-Coolant sender and wire that goes from it to the body harness (one black/yellow wire)
-CAS housing, internals other then the rotor, distributor cap and CAS (you will not need to use the distributor cap for anything other then just a cover for the cas.
-Spark plug wires
-Intake piping and air filter
[u]PARTS USED FROM SR20DET[/u]
(these parts may be obtained from any sr20det s13,s14,s15 , if it has vvt just leave it unplugged)
-ECU
-Ignition chip
-Complete wire harness with coil pack harness
-Throttle body (can be substituted for SR20DE throttle body, some of the sr20DE's come with larger TB's that will bolt on)
-Crank angle sensor assembly (it does not have to work you will only be using the metal disk inside)
-Oxygen sensor (the one that bolts near the turbo, can be substituted with sr20DE upstream sensor, make sure its the thick one)
-Knock sensor (can be substituted with sr20DE)
-coolant temp sensor (can be substituted with sr20de)
-MAF (can be substituted for a z32 MAF for a direct bolt in, sr20det MAF requited a piping adapter to fit stock intake)
-AAC and the part of the intake it attaches to ( can be substituted for sr20de AAC and intake)
[u]MISCELLANEOUS OTHER PARTS[/u]
- 4 RB 20/25/26 coil packs (sr20det coil packs will work but are much bigger. RB25 coils can't be series 2 or neo coils)
- 4 RB 20/25/26 coil pack plugs (to wire into sr20det coil pack harness)
- threaded nipple fitting (for AAC mod)
- extra wire, solder black tape etc
HERE IS A PICTURE OF ALL THE PARTS READY FOR INSTALL
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[u] STEP 1 [/u]
- I am going to start with the hard stuff first to get it out of the way.
- First you will need to cut the portion of the intake that the AAC valve attaches to. the one i used was from a s14 sr20det (probably the hardest to do the mod to but it was what i had at the time laying around, the easiest would be one from a primera sr20de)
- Here is the intake after i cut the section out
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-Next you will need to weld a plate over the exposed inner portion of the intake like this
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-After you weld the plate over the inner part of the intake you will need to drill and tap a hole into the large chamber of the intake section like this
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-If you are using an s14 intake like this you will also need to cut the steel 90 degree tube coming out the top of the intake section you cut out
- The final product should look like this
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-Now put this part aside and move on to step 2
[u] STEP 2 [/u]
-Now you need to make a bracket for the 4 coil packs. you can mount the coils pretty much anywhere but i chose to mount mine on the firewall directly behind the engine
- here is a picture of the bracket i made.
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-Now you need to splice the new RB/CA coil plugs into the SR20DET coil harness. i first cut the RB/CA plug whips to length
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-Next i cut and marked the SR20DET coil harness
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- i then soldered all the connections and shrink wrapped them. then i taped the harness together. the end result should look like this. (make sure you are careful when you connect everything. if you dont do this step right your firing order will be off, also don't forget the coil pack "earth" wire on each coil harness. they will all splice together and end in one single wire which is the one separate from the main harness in the picture)
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-here is a picture of the coil packs bolted to the fire wall. the holes were already there. also notice where i attached the earth wire.
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[u]STEP 3 [/u]
- Grab the SR20DET Cas and the CAS from your FJ20ET. They should look like this. the SR20DET on the left and the FJ20DET on the right
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- Take them both apart but be careful to label the sr20det CAS disk so you know which side is up when you reinstall it.
-Here are the two disassembled CAS housings side by side. they both have the same size center shaft and it extends up above the bearing about the same amount on each CAS
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-Now the hard part, you will need to position the sr20det CAS above the FJ20ET CAS housing and line up the new pickup where the old fh one was positioned. then you will need to mark and cut the side of the FJ CAS to clear the sr20det VAS plug like this.
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-Next you will need to grind part of the SR20DET CAS so it will sit relitively flat in the bottom of the fj CAS housing. this is the part you need to grind to the same level as the bottom of the CAS
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-Now temp install the sr CAS in the FJ housing. mark, drill and tap the 3 holes. try to keep the pickup as close to the original position as possible and make sure you keep the middle shaft as close to center as possible. an easy way to do this is to install the spacer for the cas disk while you are marking and drilling.
- It is now time to install the CAS. use washers on the 3 screws to get the disk the right height in the sensor so it does not rub. you will probably have to play with it for a bit to get everything the right height. you might also have to add a small spacer on the shaft that holds the cas disk to get it the right height in the sensor.
-Once everything is assembled, seal up the open holes remaining in the CAS with your choice of methods. i used some expired B 1/2 (all you aircraft guys know what im talking about)
-It is now time to install the cas, set the engine to TDC (0 degrees and the crank) then line up the marks on the CAS housing and slide it in. once you get the engine running, set the ignition timing to +15 to +17 degrees (just like an sr20DET)
[u]STEP 4[/u]
-In this step you will need to splice the FJ20 injector plugs into the SR20DET harness (unless you are using different injectors)
[u]STEP 5 [/u]
-Now you get to put everything together. Most of the sensors from the SR20DET will bolt right in.
-Install the coolant temp sensor. do not change the FJ20ET coolant temp sender (you will run a new wire from it, directly to the FJ20ET body harness)
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-Next install the MAF. if you use a Z32 MAF like i did, it will bolt right in. if you use a SR20DET MAF you will need to make some sort of adapter because the body is smaller on the outlet side then the original FJ20ET MAF
here are the two sensors side by side.
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-Here is the Z32 MAF installed in the car
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-Install the SR20DET Knock sensor. i installed mine just above the oil filter and just under the intake. originally this hole was intended to support the hard coolant line so i had to bend the tab down (as pictured) to clear the sensor. also you will need to use a couple washers under the sensor to keep it even.
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-Next you will install the SR20DET O2 sensor in to the car. (make sure you grab the fat O2 sensor. some SR20DET's came with a skinny O2 sensor, although this can be changed as long as you grab a bung for a fat sensor, as they will both thread into the same hole on the down pipe)
here is the sensor installed
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-Now is a good time to install the ignitor chip. you can install it pretty much anywhere as long as the wires reach. i chose to mount mine on the inner fender. i also uses some rubber bushings under it to lock out vibrations
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-Next you will need yo remove the FJ throttle body. after you remove the throttle body you will need to temp install your SR20 throttle body to mark how much you will need to trim off the FJ intake. when you mark the intake it should look like this except it should be completely round so it will fit. i accidentally marked the bottom wrong (i need to have my throttle body bottom channel welded to make it a smoother transition .
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-Next you will need to fill the hole on the intake for the idle air bypass port. i did this with titanium putty (like JB weld but much stronger) the best thing to do would be to weld it but i didnt have time to do this at the moment). this is the hole that needs to be filled
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-Then after test fitting the TB to make sure the intake is trimmed enough, you can finally install it. none of the hose connections on the SR20 throttle body need to be hooked up to anything unless you want to retain your stock charcoal canister and fast idle control at start up. jut remember to splice the two coolant lines that went into your FJ throttle body together. i decided not to hook any of the connections up for simplicity.
-Next you will need to remove the stock FJ AAC. this is what it looks like. it should be located on the side of the block under the intake.
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-Remove both of the lines running to the stock AAC
-Now you need to find a place to mount your modified SR20 AAC valve. i decided to mount mine to the intake support. run the air line from the same location the FJ AAC utilized, connecting the other end to the hose fitting you tapped into the modified SR20 AAC.
-Connect a hose to the other port (the cut off pipe on the side of the modified AAC in my case) and run it to the intake tubing. i chose to attach mine to the stock valve cover breather because i will be running a catch can. this is how i tied it in. (note the other two ports are sealed off, this is where the charcoal canister originally tied into but i eliminated it.
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-Now the fun part, the wiring!! i decided to wire the new system in completely separate from the stock relay/ fuse system. here is a basic wire diagram that i moded for the swap.
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-After that you are almost done. now just connect the plug wires to the coil packs (make sure you connect them to the correct coil pack. i did not find a good way to mount them so i striped the ends of the leads and just pushed them into the coil pack opening (i am planning on upgrading to he the AEM pencil coils/ system soon so i didnt stress it. the according to their specs the AEM pencil coils are long enough to reach the spark plugs in the FJ, unlike those designed for the sr20det
- The last thing you will have to make is the throttle cable bracket. i just utilized the top left throttle body mount bolt to hold it down. i will get more pictures later.
-Now you should be done. start it up and enjoy. oh and dont forget to set your power FC if you use the Z32 MAF