Hi Guys,
I thought I had fixed my problem by replacing the CAS, but it still dies. On Saturday 5k's from the track and it crapped out again. Had to let it sit for 15-20 minutes before I could get going again.

So I now need to let the car idle or run for 45 minutes or so before it shows the symptons and slowly starts to crap out, massive missing and bucking then will eventually stall even if I have the throttle flat to the ground. If it sits overnight it will run beautifully, even when hot, but if it runs for 45 or so it will miss and stall. It's like a heat soak problem, something slowly heats up and eventually fails.
I've already replaced the following.

Coil
CAS
Distributor cap, rotor and HT leads
It already has a BOSCH ignition module - Has anyone ever had one of these fail?

I'm going to replace the fuel regulator, but I crimped the return line and it made no difference to how it ran when it was hot.

Maybe a bad earth somewhere?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be really appreciated.
Cheers,
Jon

crank angle sensors play up when they get hot

Are you sure it's ignition related? Can you hear the fuel pump cycle when you turn the key?

Thanks guys,

Crank Angle Sensor is brand new, it was the first thing I replaced, 0km's on it. Maybe a fualty new part?

Fuel pump is only a year old if that. When it is spluttering away I can clearly hear the fuel pump working as it should, it doesn't cut out at all. However I will check the voltate drop and earth this weekend.

Could it a be a bad earth heating up with time, it has a motecM4 computer? Maybe the bosch ignition module, I thought they were bullet proof though.


Thanks for the suggestions
Jon

Mate i have had computer with a dry solder joint and would only do about 50km running before cutting out then after sitting for a bit would restart ok , then only to do it all again . Sounds similar to what yours is doing.. Got another computer you can try ?? Hope that helps somewhat !!! I have also had the Bosch module fail, but it just stopped and had no spark at all, but is a posibillity anyway !!

Best of luck in the hunt
Regards
Craig

Thanks Craig,
I think I'm going to hit all the earths this weekend, completely clean them up and retighten. Unfortunately I don't have another ECU to try. Interesting your bosch unit failed. I read on here somewhere the ignition modules can cause this issue also, but I think that was the nissan modules.

Ahh well at least I'll know my car backyards after this. I'll keep you guys posted if I find anything.
Cheers,
Jon

Firstly, Id be looking long and hard at that Bosch trigger. Does it feel hot to touch when the engine fails.
What trigger is it. Smart or dumb? Bim137 (Bosch *** *** 008) is smart. Its a BIM124 ( I think possibly BIM127 as well....farrrk I cant recall) is the normal dumb trigger.

What coil are you using?
Is the coil something funky with very low internal resistance or an everyday Bosch black electronic ignition coil (MEC717/723 etc)
Do not use a Bosch red coil like a GT40. Those coils are a very "slow" coil designed specifically for points ignition and will result in a very weak spark. They will run at everyday boost and revs if the plugs and leads are in top notch tho.
Bosch HEC coils are designed for CDI ignitions but they still seem to work OK using the electronic coil dwell settings.

Also, have a look in your Motec ignition config. pages and see what your ignition dwell time settings are in the ECU.

If your running a 008/BIM137 which is a smart module, then the dwell time set in the ECU makes no difference as the module itself sets the dwell time. Just set the dwell for 50% DUTY.
Better still, set it at 3.5Ms. The you wont have to worry about anything frying if you fit a different dumb module.
However, if you are using an extremely low internal resistance coil with a smart trigger you can end up with dramas. The smart modules dont work properly with very low internal resistance coils and can end up overheating and failing. AFAIK, most aftermarket coils are usually not extremely low internal resistance but its worth checking.

If its using a dumb module with an everyday Bosch MEC electronic ignition coil, then make sure the ignition dwell time is set to 3.5Ms TIME.
If its set to blah % DUTY then its wrong for an electronic coil designed for a FIXED amount of charge time per ignition period and will be overheating both the coil and the trigger to buggery.
"If" you are using some hot shot low internal resistance coil, you need to know what the dwell time settings are for that coil.
Nissan COP types run on as little as 1.8Ms. Your still using the dizzie so your not likely to be troubled by this kind of COP coil.
Set the dwell higher than necessary for a particular coil type and altho you get a "bigger" spark, the increased current drain of the coil results in gross overheating of the coil and trigger module.
I mistakenly set 7.5Ms to a pair of electronic coils on my FJ and the triggers ran hot enough to start smoking and heat up the surrounding innerguard area too hot to touch after about 10 minutes running ion the driveway.

It seems a thermal failure is your issue. Something is getting hot after what seems a fixed amount of time and then failing. Quite a few of your dramas went away when you changed out the CAS a while back which points towards the trigger module.
Im leaning towards either an incorrect dwell time setting which is overheating your trigger or the module itself is simply buggered.
They are just everyday electronic components in that little case and are no more or less prone to failure as a clock radio.

If the module/coil combination is causing no dramas then Id next be checking that the fuel pump is not failing. Install a pressure guage and see what it does when things go wrong. A long shot tho.
After that its time to suspect its the ECU itself. Tough luck iffen its that but again, they are just made up of everyday electronic components, just as prone to failing as the humble clock radio.

L8tr
E

Hey mate, I've had the same problem .
The brand new CAS was the issue !
Same supplier as I always use

Thanks E, I didn't touch the trigger when it was playing up, I will be sure to do so.
The trigger is a 124, so dumb trigger. If I were to replace this, should I go for the smart trigger BIM137?? I think I'm going to replace it regardless, so at least I have a spare.

The coil is a MSD Blaster 2, brand new.

I'll need to check the dwell time and get back to you.

So yeah, I'll certainly try out the trigger first, but can I simply replace it with a smart trigger BIM137 using the same plug?

I will probably get a fuel pressure kit also, very handy to have. I appreciate the help here, you've given me some hope.

Steve how in the hell did you find out the new CAS was playing up?? I'd be pissed if the new one was faulty from the get go, no way to test them is there?

Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted.
Cheers,
Jon

Just checked the dwell and it is 3.5ms.
Cheers,
Jon

Sheesh M8, Unless the coil trigger turns out to be faulty, which Im hoping it will, then Im running out of ideas that DONT include a faulty ECU.................. Not the first time an ECU shat itself for little reason.

Thing what makes me think about ignition first is that when you replaced the CAS, the behaviour of the fault definitely changed.
Youve changed out most other variables apart from the ptu and the ECU.

Dodgey PTU's can give similar symptoms to dodgey CAS's. Run fine for a while and then just pop and fart to a stop, or just completely cut, never to run again. And a heap of symptoms in between.
They have a pretty difficult job to do and no matter what the brand, they fail here and there! No more or less than anything OEM.

BIM137's (Bosch "008's) v's dumb (BIM124) triggers??? Neither here nor there M8. I would personally stay with what you have now. Your dwell setting should be fine but make sure you check to see if the trigger is getting hot. That "could" point to the coil being too "hot" for the dwell setting but I kinda doubt this.

See what happens after changing the ptu. If the problem persists... see your ECU doctor....!

L8tr
E

Thanks E,
After some further testing, I think it might actually be my god damn alternator or the voltage regulator. Charges fine for the first 45 minutes then drops a volt, nearly ceases to work at all. I had a really old battery and I think the combination of the two is causing this issue. I've replaced the battery and earth to the body and will have the alternator rebuilt. I'll then do some testing and see how it goes.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Cheers,
Jon