Leopard C2'A1' blogOctober 28 2007 at 11:53 PM
|Jim Carswell (no login)|
from IP address 220.127.116.11
With the impending release of MLM's conversion I thought I'd start up a build log of a C2A1. Hopefully it will help with any questions that arise when you start your builds. Now don't start asking when it will be out, I'm sure Jeep will announce it when it's ready
I'm using my assorted Leopard bits, so I've got dark colored Revell-Germany parts and lighter Italeri Leopard 1A2 bits.
So on to it.
Part 1: Lower hull preparation.
Much of this info can be used for a regular C2 as well, also the C1A1 as the hull armour is very similar.
-1- This is the beast I'll try to replicate:
-2- First some small C2 details. All the C2's I've ever seen don't have the guide tooth retaining ring on the drive sprocket as seen here.
-3- ...so we have to remove it when assembling the Italeri kit. I clipped off what I could, then mounted it in my hi-tech lathe (cordless drill!) and filed it off. I re-contoured the hub a bit more after this photo was taken.
-4- In this view I added a casting of a scratchbuilt hydraulic bumper stop which occasionally shows up of some C2's.
-5- The front fenders need to be removed to fit the MEXAS armour. Also visible is a casting of the Italeri Leopard 2 idler wheel as the C2's went to the smaller diameter idler. The opening is filled with a strip of .060 x .080" styrene.
-6- Here I've re-located the convoy light mount lower (about 3mm) - so it roughly lines up with the bottom of the tool bin. This is so the barrel clamp (which will be rebuilt) fits properly. A small circular 'lens' molded on the kit will have to be shaved off first so the mount fits there.
-7- Next...rebuilding the kit barrel clamp so that it actually looks like it's supposed to.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!
|October 29 2007, 9:59 AM |
This blog will a lot for sure. You have some nice reference photo also ! Now just to clarify, when you talk about this C2A1, what the "A1" stand for ? Is it because it has the MEXAS armour on ?
|October 29 2007, 11:43 AM |
I think the 'A1' designation is an unofficial way to differentiate between a regular unarmoured C2 vs the MEXAS one. Same for the C1A1 used during KFOR. Not sure exactly where it originated - maybe one of those mysterious modeller inventions
|October 30 2007, 12:41 AM |
Those are great tweaks.
Thanks for the detail pictures. I've never seen a shot like that of the fender mount.
|November 1 2007, 10:44 PM |
The Idler wheel from the Italeri 2A6 kit would be suitable for the MEXAS C2 right? I'm assuming there was no suspension redesign between the A5 and A6. Also what bits from the 1A5 are you using cause I have some bits from that kit aswell. Also using the Italeri 1A2 shouldn't require further modifications from those you have and will eventually mention?
|November 2 2007, 12:04 PM |
Yep, the Italeri 2A5 idler should be the same. I think the Italeri Leopard 2, older Leo 2A5'KWS', and more up to date 2A5/2A6 kits all have the same wheel sprue.
The Italeri and Revell-Germany Leopard 1 kits all have the same lower hull parts, so no problem there. You could use the Italeri Leopard 1A2 kit for the C2A1 conversion, as you won't need the turret 'skirt' armour of the 1A4/1A5, but you will still have to find the gunner's sight doghouse and raised periscope which sits behind it. I think MLM 1014 has these parts.
What I thought
|November 2 2007, 12:18 PM |
I assumed the 1A2 was identical to the parts that come with the other two Leopard kits. I have the Revell 1A5 and the Italeri 1A4 so I was confident that the 1A2 would be identical, just wondering if there was some crazy thing on 1A2s had that was removed for the C2.
Not All Had The Leo 2 Idler Wheel
|November 2 2007, 12:07 PM |
Not all the MEXAS C-2's had the Leo 2 idler wheels. Most if not all had the regular idler wheels. As to put the Leo 2 idler wheel on we would have to short shoe the tracks to make it fit, Mostly, when we had a chance to change them , we would keep the regular road wheel as the idler wheel. Our ARV's had the Leo 2 Idler wheels. The reason we had a hard time finding the smaller idler wheels as the supply system was a lot slower and we had to make do with what we had. I spent over six months in the beasts over in the sandbox.
Saw that aswell
|November 2 2007, 12:21 PM |
There are quite a few pictures of C2s in Afghanistan with the regular Idler wheel same with C2s in Canada, so I thought that not all had this modification. Thanks for the confirmation!
|November 2 2007, 3:50 PM |
Thanks for adding that info, good to have first hand experience. I had heard that most of the C2's had gone to the smaller idlers, obviously not! Without actually measuring them, tough to tell in photos - unless it's a perfect side view so you can compare the size with the road wheel. Most cases the idler's pretty much hidden by the skirts/armour modules anyway.
Perfect Side View you say?
|November 2 2007, 8:12 PM |
Like prehaps this photo from Combat Camera?
Say if you were use the smaller diamenter ideler would you have to use less track on the kit? Would it matter if you were using the kit one-piece tracks or the HKCW indys?
Really looking forward to this....
|November 2 2007, 10:00 AM |
A question about the TLAV in the first picture though. What I'm seeing looks to be an M113a2 with an RWS, yes? It looks as though the conversion has started, meaning the track commanders hole has changed position and the RWS in located between the drivers station and the crew commanders. Or maybe just an a3 without the track conversion?
I was wondering if I could use the AFV Strykers RWS? Does anyone have photos of the topside of the TLAV? ....curious
Anyway, looking forward to the C2 build.
Part 2 - forward hull armour
|November 11 2007, 2:19 AM |
First off - never say never when it comes to armour. Here's a pic I found from the ones Neil took (hope he doesn't mind if I post this), there's a drive sprocket with the flange still on it. So still some around I guess.
Next I rebuilt the gun lock so it looks a little closer to the real one. A future MLM accessory perhaps?
Now the lower hull module. Attach the lower plow mounts first, and the lower armour piece. You could use 5 min epoxy, or carefully hold it in place and attach it with CA. Just make sure the top is 'level' with the top glacis as show in the lower photo.
Here I've put the upper glacis piece on, and added the kit headlight mounting strips to fit (after slicing off the actual round mounts). They are now higher up than they would have been, but will not be that noticeable when it's all together. Also note I've added the prominent weld seam that's missing from the Italeri kit just behind the driver's hatch, and the lowere one which in hindsite will be hidden anyhow
If you wanted to add the plow or dozer blade, this is the only piece you'd put on, leaving off the lower module as well.
Now the other module can be fitted. If it's warped and doesn't lay flat, a quick 10 sec in boiling water and pressing down on a flat suface will fix it up.
Here I've filled the joint with CA and sanded smooth, as the front upper and lower pieces are just one module on the real deal.
Before I go any further with the side hull modules, I'll have to paint, weather and add the running gear.
|November 11 2007, 7:33 PM |
Looking good Jim. Great explanations of the build process.
Question about a technique
|November 12 2007, 1:53 PM |
How did you make the weld marks? I think I can see how you did it but I'm not sure how you got it to be such a neat straight line.
|November 12 2007, 3:09 PM |
I just lay down a piece of Plastruct .010 or .015" styrene rod with Tamiya Extra Thin cement (Evergreen only make .020" rod which is a pretty big weld seam). Then I usually use a small dove-tail grinding bit in my Dremel Mini-mite and carefully add some bead texture. Some guys have success just brushing on enough liquid cement until the styrene rod is soft enough to put the weld detail in with the tip of an exacto blade, but I've never had that much luck with it.
Oops, forgot some reference pics.
|November 15 2007, 1:49 AM |
Here are a few pics of the real thing for comparison. First a cropped down pic from one of the Combat Camera images showing how the upper and lower glacis piece appears (one piece):
Then, a good overall upper shot of the front. I just noticed I need to add the extra mounting lugs and cut out the upper top piece a bit more for the plow conduit area (green arrow). I'll need to add the headlight and tow lug extensions still.
Couple pics showing how the nose module slots into the lower plow mounts.
...and the driver's hatch area.
|November 11 2007, 7:45 PM |
From the photo you posted for everyone's info....the Leopard C2 pictured in the photo was callsign 29....Squadron Commander 'B' Squadron, LdSH(RC).
It became callsign 19 on the second tour...Squadron Commander 'A' Squadron, LdSH(RC)
That particular tank can be denoted by the silver chevron "45" on the gunner's sight housing, the black Scorpion, and the 117 Radio antenna(black short thick antenna) to the right rear of the commander's hatch...all these features can be seen in the photo you posted.
The tank CFR is 78-85161.
|November 12 2007, 12:05 AM |
Wuz wondering what the CFR would be, although it would be covered in dust most likely! Will also be adding the extra front dust flap(s).
I do like the tanks with the barrel bands too, wonder if there's any close-ups of the spider that I think I saw as a marking.
|November 12 2007, 12:36 AM |
Ya, when I get going on mine I will be building the first one with a dozer blade....so it will have Troop barrel markings.
I passed some images of the 'A' Sqn, 1st Troop Desert Spider art on to Echelon so maybe a follow on decal set will be developed.