Got back from Afghanistan mid March. Wife let me pick up a new hobby in the form of a 91 RS 3.1L v6 not running for $1000. Need some advice from you experts of hard knocks.
Car cranks, spins over and tries to start, but won't. Dropped tank and replaced pump and strainer, fuel filter and O rings. Now getting fuel to rail but don't have fuel pressure tester (yet). Push little test valve on back of fuel rail and fuel spurts out.
Decided to remove plenum and fuel rail. Found lots of junk in rail and in the injectors. Cleaned the injectors and while I was at this stage, removed distributor to find button on underside of cap broken. Replaced cap, roter, pole piece, and reluctor.
Tested spark by removing on plug wire, inserted screw and held near ground. Lights like a charm (hurt like hell when it hit me, I'll live, bump on head from hitting the hood though).
If I squirt some carb cleaner in the throttle body, car cranks up and seems to try to run, but just won't.
Running out of ideas and thought you guys might be able to shed some new light. Any ideas??
Ok, you got Fuel, Spark and Compression, it should run right? Sorry, not this time. I know the feeling only to well.
Do you have a code scanner for the computer? Check for fault codes. A sensor or relay in the system "may" keep it from starting.
You said you cleaned out the injectors but did you OHM them out? For stock injectors they should read somewhere around 14 OHM's. If the reading is to high or too low replace them.
Get your self a fuel pressure tester and see what the pressure at the rail is. For a TBI system it requires somewhere between 12-18 PSI. A TBI new fuel pump will be putting out 30 PSI. If you put in a pump that is wrong and is putting out too much pressure and the TBI carb is week you may be flooding it and get a "no start".
Check plugs, plug wires, all connections, vacuum hoses
sensors, relays and anything else. It's enough to drive you nuts.
All information is given off the top of my head and past experiences.
I hope I've helped in someway, good luck.
1988 IROC-Z VIN 8
87,000 miles, all stock original
hey my 5.7 was doing something similar, i replaced the idle air control valve and that seemed to help for a little while, but now its doing it again. Maybe give that a try.
Did you check the timing when you reinstaled the distributor? I rebuilt my 1991 305 V-8. Had to get a timing light to reset the timing when I removed the distributor because when I removed it I didn't set the car up for tdc, so when I got it back together idle was very rough and so forth until I put a light on it and adjusted accordingly.