In reference to my model 48...
Russ,I removed the barrel weight set screw and tried to push the weight but it would not move, I tried to "tap" it with a rubber mallet without luck.Is the counterweight supposed to be flush against the barrel, There is a 1/8 inch gap between the inside lip of the counter-weight and the barrel. The sleeve can be hand turned but does not slide up or down, I can live with the movement since my rifle shoots straight but if the gap is out of spec I can try more elbow grease to move it.
Hector, because of the sleeve movement I'm wondering if a sling swivel attached to the fore-end of the stock would be a better option instead of a barrel band.I saw a set advertised in the Air Gun Express catalog
Also -My 9 year old has a Beeman Silver Bear 1783 Spring air 177 cal with a horrendous trigger pull, although he shoots it quite good Does anyone have any experience working on the trigger on something like this( It's a $50 dollar Walmart gun).
Anyone have a quality beginner type rifle(s)for a 11 or 9 year old to trade for a Model 36 (in 177)?
The front piece should be flush with the barrel's muzzle.
Some 48's have a "key" a place where a ridge in the receiver indexes with the sleeve. You would need to disassemble the gun or to send it to a service station.
Hitting the front sight will do no good unless the sleeve is properly indexed and well into the receiver. After you get everything tight, you should experience no problem with the sleeve moving or rotating.
A good airgunsmith I used to know out in PA, had the practice of gluing the sleeves with blue loc-tite (the permanent one) as he said that there was no way anyone could wear out a Diana barrel. And the only reason to disassemble the sleeve was to change barrels.
If you go for stock swivels, think about using the German placement. It is by the SIDE of the gun, not under it, as the American placement is. If you are right handed, you need to place the swivels in the right side of the stock, if you are left handed, you need to place the swivels in the left side of the stock (Right or Left is always looking down the line of sight towards the muzzle). In this fashion, the rifle lays FLAT against your back when you walk, instead of teetering on its heel against your back.
Think about it, if you walk a lot with the gun shouldered, it might be worth a try. Also look at the Flush-Mounted Sling swivels, they are much better for side mounting, they are more expensive, but a Diana is worth it.
As for the trade, sorry, I am in México and cannot help you along those lines.
Hector, thanks for the speedy reply. I'm an certified Colt AR,H&K G-36, and Glock armorer but have no experience with air rifles, which are a different animal. If I were to venture into this would It be feasible or should I send it to a RWS service shop?
I have rigged up some other rifles with the side mounted slings and will probably do that, I guess I'll check with Brownells unless you have a better suggestion.
Thanks
Bill
what will determine if you can bite the bullet or not.
Airguns have more to do with car suspensions than with firearms.
Firearms are nice and I also like them, but airguns are far more fascinating, more complex, more efficient, more finicky.
The guns in your realm are mostly military/police guns, their objective is somewhat different than airguns, they also use higher tolerances and they are simpler all around because they are designed to be easy to maintain in the field within the specific Mil-Spec.
Airguns are about twice as hard as firearms to service.
Only you can decide if you want to take the plunge or not, it is not easy, but it is highly rewarding and interesting.
If you do decide to take the plunge, we'll try to help you along which is the main reason why Dave set up this cyber-place.
I removed the stock, the front sight assembly and the barrel sleeve. I did not see a key or anywhere that indexes the sleeve to the reciever. I put the front sight assembly on without the barrel sleeve to make sure it did not interfere with the position of the front sight. Even without the sleeve the sight assembly does not go flush against the barrel. The set screw mark on the barrel indicates that it came this way from the factory. I reassembled it. The sleeve can still be twisted but it does not affect the performance of the rifle I may put an adhesive on it at a later date....
Another question: Although I do not plan on taking the rifle on amphibious operations(nothing past waist deep,rifle above waterline)If it got wet from a heavy rain downpour would removal of the stock and drying/lube the reciever suffice?
Thanks in advance
Bill
Then simply cut the sleeve to correct length and yes, loc-titeing the sleeve is not a bad idea.
While the front sight block is out, you may try turning a weight/muzzle brake. A small expansion chamber (Like comp pistol barrels) 0.100" in front of the muzzle will hold back the hot gases and let the pellet exit cleanly. You can "tune" the exact position of the MB for optimum performance (accuracy) and then cut the sleeve to size.